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Singapore city guide

Modern Singapore is one of the most advanced cities in the world. It’s really astonishing how much it achieved in such a short time, especially with a very little hinterland and the lack of natural resources. What worked in its favour was the tremendous localization and that’s what its inhabitants capitalized on to the max. For those who ask themselves whether Singapore is a country, a city or an island: the correct answer is it’s all three. Being an island situated at the entrance to the Malacca Strait has made Singapore a natural choice for a trading post, but also a tasty piece of a pie for pirates. As a matter of fact, one of the most notorious women of all time has roamed these waters for almost a decade. Ching Shih was her name, you might recognize that lady from Pirates of the Caribbean but she was so much more of a badass in reality. She was born in China and started working in a floating brothel at a very young age. That’s also where she met Cheng I Sao, a pirate lord who she married. Long story short: he died and she acquired the entire fleet, taking command of 20,000 men and 300 ships. Even the Chinese and English fleet couldn’t mess with Ching Shih. They looted, pillaged and killed all over the South China Sea as pirates do but there was one unusual thing about her merry bunch of one-legged misfits. They had a code that prohibited them from raping their female captives and the captain promoted marriage and fidelity. If a pirate cheated on his wife he got beheaded. If a wife cheated on her husband- she walked the plank. Consensual sex with captives was also a big no-no, and only tolerated after marriage. Ching Shih was one conservative tyrant. Singapore, as we know it today, was established by the East India Company in 1819, nine years after Ching Shih’s death. Pirates still roam these waters, but instead of looting and pillaging small villages they now target enormous tanker ships, they take the crew hostage and demand ransom. It’s not as spectacular and romantic as it used to be.

Marina Bay with ArtScience Museum and skyscrapers in Singapore by evening

Marina Bay is a great place for spotting stunning modern architecture such as the ArtScience Museum whose design is inspired by a lotus flower, and the Marina Bay Sands hotel that features the highest and largest rooftop swimming pool of the world: the iconic Infinity Pool

Singapore has many nicknames but one is particularly fitting: the “City of the Future”. People here like to strive for something bigger. It’s a kind of like Dubai but not stuck-up, a bit more relaxed, cool and trendy. It is a bit pricey but what can you expect from a city that made its fortune on trade? Okay, trade and ridiculously high fines for silly stuff. Like $1500 plus public service for littering, a similar penalty for jaywalking. It might sound over the top but Singapore is crazy tidy thanks to all these rules. People avoid driving cars because it’s heavily taxed. As a consequence the pollution is minimal, and all the lush parks add to the clean and fresh environment. “The Urban Jungle” is another nickname for Singapore, underlining it’s the most developed tropical city in the world. Singapore is a demonstration of perfect harmony between award-winning architectural marvels and parks where pythons can chill hanging down a tree branch. Obviously, they had to contain some species like the tigers and all the other deadly creatures, but everything else roams free. Mega Parks such as Gardens by the Bay and Pulau Ubin are literal jungles in the middle of a metropolis and make an unforgettable impression. It feels like watching Jurassic Park for the first time, at least for someone like me who has never been in a real jungle. They even managed to fit those huge trees made from the photovoltaic fibre in a way that doesn’t disturb the natural harmony of the place. You can take a lift to the rooftop of this incredible monument and observe a light show performed on a daily basis.

The Sultan Mosque (Masjid Sultan) in the Kampong Glam district of Singapore

Masjid Sultan, the Sultan Mosque, is located in Singapore's oldest district Kampong Glam, often referred to as the Muslim Quarter, which is packed with great restaurants, cafes, galleries and boutique shops

Singapore is also known as a culinary paradise and even among Asian countries famous for their delicacies. A good friend of mine returned from a trip to the Lion City and could not stop telling anecdotes and tales of amazing food, Michelin Starred food stalls and forfeited dreams of bikini body for summer. Hawker stands and back-alley grandmas selling food on par with best Parisian restaurants? You find it only in Singapore. “Hong Kong Soya Sauce Chicken Rice & Noodle” that’s actually the name of one of those remarkable food stalls selling simple stuff. Imagine that name next to “L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon” in the Michelin Guide, hilarious. Nightlife is, naturally, another hallmark of Singapore. The repertoire is enormous and everyone will find a place where they’ll feel right at home. Rooftop bars are my favorite; particularly the one on top of the iconic Marina Bay Sands (those three skyscrapers with a boat on top). Hipster bars and clubs around the Chinatown or the Holland Village are also lots of fun. Check out Sentosa, it’s an island resort just outside of Singapore, totally worth the trip because of the Ibiza-esque beach parties, but also for the Universal Studios Theme Park.

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Tokyo city guide

Tokyo is only recently becoming a city that people want to visit. The Japanese have been known as sceptical towards outsiders/foreigners: the gaijin, to say the least. The entire country was isolated from the world from 1639 to 1853. This isolationist foreign policy was called Sakoku. And curiously, this is the period when Japan developed the most. Not only Tokyo (known as Edo back then) underwent a massive growth, but also the most iconic parts of Japanese culture came to existence. The samurai, bonsai trees, tea ceremonies, roads, school, erotica, poetry, and sumo, even the kabuki theatre: all that happened because of the Sakoku. Maybe globalization isn’t the way to go? Maybe telling the Christians to piss off with their nonsense is the catalyst that the modern civilization needs? Fast forward a couple of years, two World Wars, atomic bombs, a few dozen earthquakes, and Japan can finally be considered a part of the modern world.

Mount Fuji near Tokyo is sacred in Japan; every resident of this country must at least once in a lifetime stand on its top

Anime had an enormous role in introducing Tokyo and Nippon culture to the western civilization; entire generations grew up watching Dragon Ball, Sailor Moon or actors in rubber Godzilla costumes. People became fascinated by tales of the samurai and shinobi warriors but also by tales of everyday life masterfully portrayed by talented artists. Anime as a medium covers all the possible genres even for the more mature audiences. Shows such as Devilman Crybaby and Aggretsuko have made their way into the mainstream via Netflix, and touch on important topics such as racial tolerance and the hell of working a desk job. The Ghibli Museum (https://www.ghibli-museum.jp/) at 1 Chome-1-83 Shimorenjaku is a pilgrimage site for every aficionado of Japanese animation. Let’s not pretend that anime is the only reason why people are obsessing over Japan. In my opinion, there are two important factors, both clearly noticeable when exploring Tokyo.

The first one is that they’re firmly rooted in tradition. Shinto shrines are everywhere, people might not admit it but they still light incense while passing by. According to that ancient religion, gods (kami) live in those shrines and surrounding areas, and even the smallest act of worship brings good luck. Buddhist temples such as the iconic Sensō-ji, the oldest in Tokyo, still attract thousands of tourists and locals. Temple grounds host the Sanja Matsuri, one of the most important Shinto festivals, which takes place towards the end of spring season. It’s a life-changing experience, seeing people dancing in kimonos, chanting, playing on instruments leaves an everlasting impression. The main event is focused around carrying three miniature shrines (mikoshi), infused with kami by a priest. According to the legend, three fishermen found a golden statue of Buddha in the river and carried it to the same exact spot where Sensō-ji stands to this day. Nakamise-dōri is a street that leads to the temple; there are shops, food stands and various festival goodies available during the celebrations.

Some of the must-try snacks include taiyaki (a fish-shaped pastry), mochi cakes and dango. Most of the stuff is made from rice and filled some kind of a sweet bean paste. Onsen, hot spring resorts, are another iconic symbol of Japan. Odaiba Ōedo-onsen-monogatari is a very famous one, located in Tokyo and is an amazing place to spend an entire day in. It’s more of a theme park than a bathhouse; there are bars and restaurants, everything feels very old school and organic. I would plan a visit during the cherry tree blooming season in the middle of April. Sitting around an outdoor bath during late evening hours with pink petals falling down all around you is something worth traveling for.

Raibow Bridge in Tokyo with night illuminating

Rainbow Bridge in Tokyo: a visiting card of Odaiba island, in the evening the bridge supports are illuminated in rainbow colors

The second thing that I consider instrumental to the sudden popularity of Japan is the wacky culture of Tokyo’s younger generations. It seems as if they are just starting to reinvent themselves and as much as we – the gaijin – are obsessed with them; the more they are even fascinated by us. Things that we consider weird are completely normal, even sought after in Tokyo. Beautiful women are desperately trying to look European. They dye their hair, wear blue contact lenses and ruin their perfect, pale complexion with spray tanning in order to express themselves. Waitresses dressed up as French maids are working in maid cafés that are popping up everywhere. People are buying used underwear from vending machines called burusera and they have entire expos dedicated to sex toys and sex robots where they can literally sample the wares. I have nothing against artificial vaginas but it seems they’re going about that sexual revolution from a completely wrong angle. The hentai anime and stuff portrayed in it such as lolicon (petite, possibly underage girl fetish), imoutos (younger sister incest fetish) and a plethora of other uncommon preferences is what creeps the western audience out. That’s also why we all love Japan so much.

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Buenos Aires city guide

The best description of Buenos Aires that comes to mind is “a beautiful mess of a city”. A melting pot of Paris, Barcelona with a dash of Naples and then, when you least expect it, you come across parts that remind you of New York or Tokyo. Argentina has actually been the New York of South America; people from Spain, Portugal, and Italy followed the conquistadors there looking for the brave new world. Buenos Aires’ location was ideal to establish a thriving port town and it quickly became one of the most important trading centres in the new world. The city was a victim of its own success. Growing disparity between the rich port and other parts of Argentina resulted in numerous conflicts and political tension that lasts to this day. That’s the thing that most people immediately notice when they visit Buenos Aires: people protest every other day. Demonstrations usually take place at the Plaza de Mayo, a symbol of Argentina’s independence from Spain.

It is also the place where the “madwomen” protested against the military junta under whose iron regime many people disappeared. The government tried to trivialize them by calling them las locas but they carried that nickname with pride and decency. The mothers even continued their marches after a democratic government seized power again and the “Dirty War” (1976-1983) came to an end. The mothers of Plaza de Mayo simply wanted their missing children and husbands not to be forgotten. Students, intellectuals, political dissidents, members of the opposition parties; everyone who could impose a threat against the government vanished during the dirty war. Afterwards it turned out that many simply were thrown out of military planes above the Atlantic Ocean. Official numbers state that 13,000 people were killed but human rights organizations estimate the real number was more around 30,000. The survivors could return home, but mentally cracked and physically affected after many years in prison enduring endless humiliations and tortures.

Colourful houses in La Boca area of Buenos Aires

La Boca: the most colourful and lively district of Buenos Aires

Argentinian people and especially the inhabitants of Buenos Aires are easily to mobilize and protest when something is bothering them. From the Falklands conflict to pigeon crap and various political marches, people are all about that freedom of speech. What do they do when they’re not busy marching and shouting? They dance and sing. Buenos Aires is a kaleidoscope of emotions, colours, smells, and shapes. They love their festivals as much as they love being pissed off. Argentinians just like it when there’s something going on. After all they are hot-blooded and very emotional people and can’t handle boredom very well.

The port districts of La Boca and Puerto Madero are some of the favourites among both tourists and locals, also the most lively. The first one is really cool and gives you the feeling of old Buenos Aires with historic, colourful buildings and cosy bars. The second one is more on the modern side with old warehouses transformed into lofts and galleries, shops and restaurants. If I had to pick one of the two, I’d go with La Boca because that’s where you get down and dirty and experience the real Buenos Aires. That’s also where two famous Argentinian football teams were established and the fierce rivalry began. Boca Juniors and River Plate are both very accomplished clubs and derby matches between those two are some of the most heated in the entire world. In 2018 both clubs played also the final of the Copa Libertadores, the South American equivalent of the Champions League. Then things went completely out of hands; after some other incidents the players bus of Boca Juniors was attacked by River Plate fans and some Boca players were even injured. As a consequence the second leg of the final was moved out of Argentina and played in Madrid. Very sad for the local fans but it created a once in a lifetime opportunity for European football lovers to watch the world’s most notorious derby-match close to their home.

One of the greatest that ever kicked a ball: the late Diego Maradona, played for Boca. In that respect the scene in La Boca is pretty comparable to the favelas of Rio de Janeiro. It might not be that much of a ghetto but kids still look up to football players as Gods and dream of becoming professional sportsmen to escape from daily hardship. Those two districts along with San Telmo, are where the nightlife is at; the best spots like Vox, Bebop, and Buenos Ayres Club are all nearby Plaza de Mayo. Walk a bit to the east, cross the river and you’ll arrive at Rojo Tango Show, which is one of the best Tango joints in the city. Also, don’t miss out on the Recoleta Cemetery, one of the most beautiful cemeteries in the world.

Apart from kicking a ball, the Argentinian people have also a passion for meat. An average person in Argentina consumes a frightening amount kilogram of beef each year. Although there are always exceptions to the rule: in the nineties the Argentinian national football had a goalkeeper who was vegetarian and nicknamed “Lettuce” by his teammates. Argentina has been an enormous market for beef since its colonial times. Pampas are the fertile plains perfect for raising cattle and Gauchos are the Argentinian cowboys. The peculiar climate, development of railroad and carts capable of transporting frozen meat made the perfect ingredients for a beef powerhouse. As a matter of fact it is comparable, if not even larger, than Texas further up north. Feria de Mataderos is a weekly fair/farmers market that showcases all kinds of traditional food and folk customs. The Slaughterhouse Festival doesn’t sound very appealing in English, but it’s a very pleasant and interesting event that combines various cultural activities such as dancing, horse riding, and asado. Asado is the protoplast of modern barbecue that originates from the Gauchos where they roast tons of meat over pits of coals or open fire.

Famous Perito Moreno Glacier in Argentinian Patagonia

Perito Moreno is one of the best destinations to escape busy city life of Buenos Aires

Regular barbecue is also immensely popular in Buenos Aires and it’s the most common form of street food. They serve choripan, empanadas, delicious steaks but they don’t cower away either from more refined bits like testicles, organs, and tripe. Wash it all down with yerba mate, the Argentinian kind of tea, drunk from characteristic cups. I’m not a huge fan but it must be great for digestion. Normal people would call it disgusting, tasting like the grass pulp you scrape from the bottom of your lawnmower. If you’d rather eat in a locale than on the streets, then you should check La Carniceria at Thames 2317, which is hailed as one of the best spots for meat lovers in Buenos Aires.

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São Paulo city guide

São Paulo is often compared to Rio de Janeiro, but it’s like comparing night to day. Rio is a hot mess; an almost primal clash of elements, shapes, and sounds. Rio is pure chaos. São Paulo is its polar opposite. Dignified and structured, despite being home to almost three times the population of Rio. Certain issues come with such an enormous number of citizens. The growing disparity between the working class and the rich are reaching new heights. Literally. The poor spend hours in traffic jams trying to drive downtown from suburban favelas, while the rich board a helicopter. I’m not even joking. People are stuck in traffic, look up and see those dickheads flying over. São Paulo has the largest helicopter fleet in the world, so politicians and the wealthy can skip traffic jams. That 1% of the population owns almost 50% of real estate in São Paulo and dictates impossible prices to rent leads to the deterioration of entire apartment buildings in downtown São Paulo. People are squat there, creating entire communities and taking care of those buildings. Landowners would still rather abandon the properties than lower the rent. It’s stupid.

The working class has reached the boiling point in 2014 when the city experienced one of the worst droughts in its history. It was so bad that baristas didn’t have water to brew coffee and we all know how Brazilians love their coffee. People understood what “rain” in “rain forest” stands for and why they’re so important. People also understood that fresh water isn’t optional for living beings and mowing down hectares of the jungle a day isn’t the best idea. It eventually started raining and people calmed down, but it was starting to get dangerous. Scientists predict that it wasn’t the last or the most intense drought that Mother Nature has in store for São Paulo. That’s a challenge we’ll all have to face sooner or later. I mention “people” a lot in this rant. I believe that’s what São Paulo is all about. There are the so-called multi-cultural cities and there’s this place. It has the largest Japanese community outside of japan and you will find more people of Italian descent than in any other Italian city including Rome. The industrial revolution has transformed São Paulo into modern-age Babel Tower. Brazilian churrasco with a side of sushi is nothing out of ordinary here.

Se cathedral in Sao Paolo with palmtrees at the foreground

São Paulo Cathedral: a neo-gothic church in the old district of Sao Paulo

People, who come to São Paulo and expect beaches and everlasting parties might be disappointed to find out it is merely a city of culture. Sao Paulo Museum of Art is one side of the spectrum, with an assortment of famous European painters like Rubens, Botticelli, and Goya. Vila Madalena is on the other side with amazing street art, bohemian galleries, and shops. It’s also the nightlife area in São Paulo with some of the best bars and restaurants in the city. Picking one, unique place in São Paulo is difficult, but if it was me, I’d go with Galeria do Rock. Tattoo studios, record and skate shops all under one roof; a true temple of an alternative subculture. Brazilians obsess over a great many things. Their love for football is obvious. São Paulo Futebol Clube is the unofficial #1 deity. Their devotion is on display for all to see at the Museum of Football, Estádio do Pacaembu, Praça Charles Miler. That museum is amazing, makes a lasting impression even on football heathens.

Illuminated Luz Station in Sao Paolo at the evening

Luz Station in Luz neighbourhood of Sao Paolo built in Victorian sytyle

There’s only one time of the year that Brazilians turn their heads away from their favourite sport. And hat period belongs predominantly to their women. Beauty and music take over during the Carnival and the samba dancers train the entire year for this event. Make sure you check the exact dates if you’re planning to visit, so you don’t miss it. It’s a huge parade of different schools that compete for the crown of the best ass-shakers in South America. It’s ass-shaking elevated to an art form and Brazilian babes spare no expense to appear at their absolute best. I mean that both figuratively and literally. Plastic surgery, or “adjustments” are affordable enough even for the poor folk from the favelas. "Affordable" is the trick word here. The government issues "low-interest loans" so people can get entangled in the credit loop.

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Hong Kong city guide

Hong Kong, like other major players in the region, has made its fortune on the drug trade. Opium was the name of the game back then, everyone wanted a piece of that trade. Hong Kong means “The Scented Port” in Cantonese. They say it comes from the smell of sandalwood incense. I believe it was the smell of sweet, sweet opiates that caused the “peaceful colonization” by the British Empire. They came, planted a flag in the ground and said: “This is ours now”. I thought it takes more to colonize a piece of land, but apparently not. They left eventually, but Hong Kong remained one of the most “English” cities in Asia. Victoria Peak and Victoria Harbour (named after Queen Victoria) have become iconic parts of this city. The tram that takes tourists to the summit is an unforgettable experience on its own. Those carts have seen better days and ascend the hill at a thrilling angle. Add the rusty rails to the equation and it becomes a scenario for a cool movie. Will you arrive safely or will you get stuck halfway through the climb?

Yellow pagoda and orange bridge at Nan Lian Garden Hong Kong

Nan Lian Garden in the pieceful Diamond Hill area, a great place to escape from the frantic big city atmosphere in Hong Kong

Once (or if) you make it to the top then you’re in for the most epic view of Hong Kong, and a large part of the coast if the weather provides. There’s also a shopping mall and Madame Tussauds Museum of Wax Figures, which always reminds me of London. You may notice a thing or two when you’re up there: apartment complexes similar to the concrete monstrosities of Eastern Europe. People live like sardines in a can in so-called “coffin” or “cage” homes. Think of a regular condo split into a number of closet-like spaces where people live like Harry Potter. Those can cost close to $300 month (that’s US dollars). Most people in Hong Kong cannot afford to pay rent for a normal apartment. That extends as far as cemetery plots, they rent those out only for 6 years. Your spot of eternal rest is about to expire? Too bad, cremation time!

This city is going through a real estate crisis. Therefore it is a pleasant surprise that they left an enormous and uninhabited forest, which is surrounding the city, untouched. A metropolis such as Hong Kong needs green lunges after all. The tricky part is that no one in Hong Kong owns any property, apart from the St. John's Cathedral, which is still a part of the United Kingdom. Every inch of land belongs to the government, which leases it out to developers. That happens during auctions and it’s ridiculous; like $2 billion for a piece of land at the harbour. It allows Hong Kong to remain a tax haven and attract big companies while getting revenue from the leases, but what about the people? It’s probably the Eastern European kid in me, but ignorant people taking Instagram photos at Choi Hung Estate piss me off. The building looks nice with its colourful balconies but I doubt the tourists realize how living alongside 10 people in one apartment feels like. That’s why locals spend so much time outside. Who would want to come back to a home like that? It puts “most densely populated” in a new light, because it’s obviously not always a good thing.

Enough of this negative talk; take a trip to the Po Lin Monastery to re-establish your Zen. You can take a cable cart from Hong Kong; the ones with glass floors are especially exciting. The monastery is located on Lantau Island and the ride takes about 25 minutes. Once you arrive on the spot, the enormous bronze statue of the Tian Tan Buddha will greet you. It can get crowded since it’s a pilgrimage site. But the monks are awesome and you can even taste a bit of their ascetic cuisine. Lamma Island is yet another tourist staple. It’s tiny with a couple of charming fishing villages and great seafood restaurants. Rent a bike and spend the day exploring. There’s one route you can take around the island and a loop shouldn’t take more than 3 hours.

When it comes to food, drinks and other fun stuff in Hong Kong, it comes down to two areas. Kowloon, which is best described as a huge Chinatown. But is it still Chinatown when you’re in China? I don’t think so. Either way, it is one of the most colourful and spiritual parts of Hong Kong. There’s also the Mong Kok market, open long after sunset and where you can buy anything there if look hard enough. Kowloon was all over the mainstream media, due to the infamous Kowloon Walled City. It was one of those cities within cities, a closed of enclave ran by the Triads. All kinds of urban myths about drug laboratories, prostitution, murder, and aliens are linked to this enigmatic place. The government levelled the entire block and built a park on top of the ruins, probably for the better.

Tourist shopping at market in Mong Kok district of Hong Kong

Mong Kok with its huge vibrant and colourful markets is the place to be for affordable shopping in Hong Kong

Central, on the other hand, is more in the lines of the modern, western cities. Its main hub SoHo is yet another similarity to London’s bohemian culture. Not only by name it’s like a beehive during weekends. Three out of five top-rated restaurants are located in this very district. Visit Lung King Heen at 8 Finance St for, arguably, the best Dim Sum dumplings in the world. They also serve the most expensive banquet menu in the world ($7000 per person). Make sure to visit Luk Yu Tea House (https://www.lukyuteahouse.com/), praised for its delicious authentic food and an old school atmosphere. Ho Lee Fook (https://www.holeefook.com.hk/) is also an extremely popular dining venue in the city, thanks to its modern approach to Cantonese cuisine and a funny name. Relax around the harbour area where locals and tourists hang out watching mesmerizing light shows.

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Sydney city guide

Sydney is the capital of New South Wales, on the continent of Australia. That’s right; it’s not the capital of Australia, as many people seem to think. “The Land Down Under” is split into states and each has its own centre of administration. I suppose they all need a shelter nearby with the infamous indigenous fauna. We’ve all seen those clips with spiders larger than a human torso, relaxing under a toilet seat. Kangaroos and koala bears; animals considered as “cute” can be a true pain in the ass. Especially koalas, those beasts are vicious. It looks like everything in Australia wants to kill you. But the aboriginal people don’t seem to be all that bothered. Weird, isn’t it? Perhaps it’s some kind of biblical plague; the land itself turning against the colonial invaders.

Koala sleeping in the tree with at the backdrop Sydney`s bridge

Koala bears: animals considered as "cute" can be a true pain in the ass

Maybe it’s karmic justice for slaughtering the natives during frontier wars. The British have had a thing for good old bloodshed during their colonial era, and maybe that’s the cause of their current many misfortunes. *cough* Brexit *cough*. I’m just messing around, but the fact is that the aboriginal tribes’ numbers now equal to 3% of Australia’s population. Their culture was focused around the area of modern Sydney and that’s where most of the archaeological discoveries take place. The beginning of the city itself is nothing but sinister. It started out as a penal colony. They actually spent resources to transport convicts from England to the other side of the globe, with beaches and perfect weather. The official version is that they did that to halt French advances towards the eastern part of the continent. I believe they did that hoping the cargo won’t survive the trip. Those that did survive eventually became a proper part of the society and founded this country. People with convict ancestors are now low-key celebrities.

There are a few spots worth checking out if you feel like getting more into that history. The Kate Owen Gallery (https://www.kateowengallery.com/) at 680 Darling St hosts exhibitions of unique art made by modern-day Aborigines. Australian Museum (https://australianmuseum.net.au/) at 1 William St delves into the history and ancient artefacts found throughout the continent. The Sydney University is home to Macleay Museum, the last of the big three. It’s currently closed but they should reopen soon when they’re done preparing a new wing. If you would rather experience the Australian animal kingdom, without the risk of getting mangled/injured/eaten then Taronga Zoo (https://taronga.org.au/) is the place to go. It’s located 12 minutes away from Circular Quay and the ferry ride is an experience by itself. You can even spend a night in one of the luxurious campsite tents with a view at the Sydney Harbour and the Opera House. Not that long ago it was hailed as the 8th wonder of the world, next to the likes of the Hanging Gardens of Babylon. But people are building artificial islands now. Times change and so does the scale of awesomeness. So it seems the Sydney Opera is around the lower end of the epic-meter now, although to my opinion it’s still impressive and elegant.

Giraffe in Tarango Zoo with at the backdrop Sydney`s skyscrapers and Opera House

Giraffe from Taronga Zoo with at the backdrop skyscrapers and Opera House of Sydney

The harbour is the pulsing heartbeat of the city, its business centre, its communication and nightlife hub: all in one in place. I mentioned the ferries, but it’s worth noting that it’s the most pleasant and popular way of moving around Sydney. They’ll even take you to some of the 100 beaches spread around and outside of the city. Bondi and the quiet, suburban Manly are two amazing, sandy spots to get your tan on. If you ever considered giving surfing a go, then you’re in luck, Sydney has some of the best waves in the world. Sitting in the sun and swimming can be exhausting. So there’s no better way to regain your strength than sip on delicious beer and snack on fresh seafood. The iconic “Coathanger” bridge is nearby, you can climb to the top of it and witness Sydney from yet another perspective. If you’re in town with your kids and they misbehave, just take them to the Luna Park (https://lunaparksydney.com/). Even the entrance is nightmarish and would traumatize any child and cause a lifetime of coulrophobia (clown phobia). They market it as vintage, but it’s rather terrifying.

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Ottawa city guide

Ottawa? Otta-what now? Are we talking about that province in Japan? Nope, Ottawa is the Canadian capital. It’s that quiet, unpopular kid in class that gets the best grades. No one notices Ottawa, because the USA, the loud and obese brat hogs all the attention. Years pass, kids graduate and Ottawa grows up to be an amazing, educated young man with a bright future. The USA still feasts on ice cream while building walls from sticks and manure. I’m joking… but am I that far off? It was in the 16th century that expeditions began scouting the North American continent, the French and the British called dibs on Canada. I’m fascinated by that age of discovery and the pioneers that made the very first steps on this new continent. It’s chilling and hard to empathize with for a modern man. They arrived on the ships and they didn’t know what to expect. Just imagine the looks on their faces: “okay, what do we do now?”. The ingenuity of these people, the scavenging skills, the entrepreneurship is mind-blowing. I’ve watched “The Revenant” many times; so don’t tell me how important the fur trade was. That and timber trade built the foundations of what we know as modern Ottawa. And now this beautiful country pioneers in different, modern matters. The standard of living, public healthcare, education, low crime rates, or being decent human beings. We could all learn from the Canadians.

Exterior view of the Great Hall, National Gallery of Canada, Ottawa

The National Gallery, Canada's national art museum, built of glass and granite, located opposite to the Canadian Parliament

Ottawa stands at the core of this almost-utopian country as one of the most liveable and least polluted cities in the world. It also has a distinct, European feel to it. Traditions like the change of guard at the neo-gothic Parliament Building contribute to this experience. A long-standing ceremony, which might give you a little déjà vu since the guards look almost exactly like the Queens Guard in London. The building itself houses many secrets such as an impressive library, but don’t miss out on exploring the surrounding area. The Centennial Flame Fountain combines water and fire to commemorate Canada’s 100 years as a confederation. The Whispering Wall, a very unique sculpture is close by. It’s almost 10 meters wide but its design allows for a peculiar phenomenon: when two people sit at the opposite sides they can communicate via whispering. Makes you wonder if it was made like this on purpose or by accident. They say it’s some science thingy with sound waves. The entire hill complex where the Parliament stands upon feels like it was taken from a Disney movie. There are many more similarities between Ottawa and medieval European cities. The canals for example, with waterfront café’s during summer and the world’s longest ice rink during the winter season. Snack on fried Beaver Tails to warm yourself up. It’s a simple pastry with toppings but people are crazy about those.

The buildings of the Canadian Parliament on Parliament Hill in Ottawa at sunset

The Canadian Parliament buildings in Gothic Revival style situated on Parliament Hill at the southern bank of the Ottawa River

Ottawa is home to plenty of museums. I visit museums only when I have no other choice or when I feel like having a good yawn. But even I would find something interesting among wondrous exhibitions in the Diefenbunker Cold War Museum or Canada Agriculture and Food Museum. But my personal favourite way to enjoy Ottawa is the haunted walks. This city has some messed up landmarks like the Old Jail, "the most haunted building" in North America. People are actually running a hostel there and you can stay the night in one of the cells. The Fairmont Chateau Laurier is the first luxury hotel built in Ottawa. Some people on Titanic were actually on the way to attend the official opening, including the commissioner. Word is his ghost patrols the corridors, checking if everything turned out to his liking. It’s probably all bullshit but it adds even more character to this enchanting city.

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Beirut city guide

Beirut is an oasis of peace in a country that knows only conflict. It’s a European city where European cities have no right to be. It doesn’t fit the mould; it’s out of place to the point that it’s bizarre. Beirut thrives, as it has thrived for millennia, despite all that violence. It’s been around for over 5000 years and went through a lot. They survived the Romans; and they came over the Ottoman rule, World Wars, Civil Wars, terrorism: you name it. After the Second World War, the Lebanese capital became a major tourist destination and financial hub. Beirut became a beacon of freedom, tolerance and modernization in a turbulent region, which always fell short of these things. Thanks to its French influences and rich cultural and intellectual life it was nicknamed Paris of the East. That all changed dramatically in 1975 when a disastrous civil war broke out. It was in the first place a clash between Muslim and Christian militias, but within these religion movements there were many conflicts between rival groups as well. And of course all was heavily influenced by the Palestinians-Israel conflict. It did not take long time before many countries in the region, especially the big neighbour Syria stacked in their noses. I remember that when I was very young Lebanon was a synonym for chaos. Those were the early eighties when the British synth-pop group Human League made a statement in its song “The Lebanon”. It was a true catastrophe indeed. Despite the involvement of the international community and all efforts of the international peacekeeping (UNIFIL) forces the city was completely ruined and the total death toll was estimated between 150,00 and 250,000 during those 15 years of civil war. The year 2020, which was already challenging because of Covid-19, turned out to be another catastrophic year for the Lebanese people. On 4 August 2020 a large amount of ammonium nitrate, which was stored for years at a warehouse in the city’s port exploded. Surveys showed it triggered shock waves which where the equivalent of a 3.3-4.5 magnitude earthquake. The blast was so immense that it could be felt in all neighbouring countries including Cyprus, which is almost 250 kilometres away. The disaster caused over 200 deaths and 7,500 injuries, and around 300,000 people became homeless.

Basilica of Saint Paul near Beirut and view from Mount Harissa to the city

More than twenty temples and monasteries are located on Mount Harissa near Beirut, one of the most beautiful and majestic is Basilica of Saint Paul

It is unbelievable: Beirut has been through so much and they’re still smiling. The Lebanese don’t dwell on the past, that’s for sure. Beit Beirut (https://www.beitbeirut.org/) stands as a monument to the times when the city was separated into Muslim and Christian halves, like Berlin. They adapted it and opened a museum and an urban centre inside. It’s a ruin littered with bullet holes. Gives you an idea of how Beirut looked like during all those years of struggle. It still is a struggle; favouritism and corruption are all over the place and authorities are detached from the people, which resulted in the 2016 garbage crisis. A landfill closed down and they didn’t have a backup plan, people swam in a river of garbage for weeks. It had a devastating effect on the trust of society in its rulers.

Tourists stay away from this region; governments advise against visiting Lebanon. No one plans their Beirut holidays; even mentioning the idea raises eyebrows. It’s 100km away from Damascus and the Syrian Civil War, yet you don’t feel the tension. Discovering Beirut is like finding a bar of gold in a dumpster fire. Sometimes you need to let go of your common sense and reach out into that flaming dumpster (please don’t do that, it’s a metaphor). It’s the people that make this city so special and pulled it back on its feet after so many misfortunes. The population of Beirut is a melting pot of generations of war refugees that were always welcome here. We Europeans like to complain about the migrant crisis, we don’t want those few hundred “aliens” in our cities. Lebanon took over two million in; they didn’t think twice. They understand there’s so much to gain if you open up to different cultures.

There is a lot to experience in Beirut; especially in the coastal area. People seem to forget that it’s a Mediterranean city. Villas of the rich and famous of the Middle East, politicians and important personas have lived a life of luxury here. But then things got hot and they all ran away, leaving their possessions behind. Parts of the coastline feel like a ghost town with abandoned resorts, mansions, aqua and Luna parks. A good spot for urban exploration like that is the area overlooking the famous Pigeon Rocks formation. Those rocks are the remains of the sea monster killed by Perseus, at least according to the legend. Walk a bit further north and you’ll find yourself at a seaside promenade. Enjoy the modern architecture, the luxurious shops, restaurants with delicious seafood and local specialties and a marina with state-of-the-art yachts. Feels like Cannes.

view of Raouch Rocks in the sea and skyscrapers of Beirut

Raouche Rocks: one of the most popular and picturesque places in the city with many restaurants nearby, a landmark of Beirut

On top of it all: the city is blessed with a thriving club scene where the bold and the beautiful of the country like to show off their goodies. The older Beirut seems to be bothered by this modernization of their city. They think the younger generation escapes their past and throw themselves into consumerism instead of cultivating their heritage. Others combine both. Flea markets are a common way of connecting the past with the present and they’re everywhere. Pop-up stands and garages are filled with relics and antiques from the time of war. Most of it is probably looted from abandoned households but no one seems to mind. There are even more relics to discover. Recently discovered ruins of Roman Baths and the Forum of Berytus stand beside Beirut’s two most important religious buildings. St. George Maronite Cathedral and Mohammad Al-Amin Mosque are so close to each they look like one temple. I can’t imagine a better symbol of unity through diversity that is so clear in Beirut.

There is one, very surprising thing I came across in Beirut. You might think it’s a city of tents and camels but no. You can find camel-toes if you look hard enough but no camels on the streets. The funny thing is that the best ice cream in the world is actually served in a loud, a bit unbecoming hole in a wall. “Al Salam Ice-Cream” looks like a…veterinary clinic but the guy is something else. He can go on for hours how you can’t add any sugar to the cone so you can fully enjoy the taste of the treat. New York Times, Wall Street Journal, The Guardian, all praise this shop that has been running for generations, since before the civil war.

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Cape Town city guide

Cape Town has always reminded me of a Latin phrase that stuck with me since my high school days. “Per Aspera ad Astra” means “through thorns to the stars” and I think it best describes this city. As most settlements in the region, Cape Town started out as a humble trade post: a stop on the way to the Orient and back. The Dutch have planted a tiny seed in 1652 and they couldn’t begin to imagine what it’d bloom into. They brought European flora with them, like grapes which made Cape Town a famous destination for wine lovers. It wasn’t either fast or easy at first, as they didn’t have many workers. What do you do when you’re far away from home and you need labour done? You enslave people. At least they did back then it was a popular mind-set among the colonial nations. So began the influx of workforce from Indonesia, Madagascar and local African tribes. There were more than a few conflicts between the English and the Dutch, which ended by signing treaties. The “coloured” part of Cape Town’s population was, for the most part, peaceful and happy. Then the government started getting paranoid, smelled an uprising brewing in the suburbs. So, they decided to sort people according to race and put them in corresponding “districts”.

Colourful houses in Bo-Kaap at the foot of Signal Hill in Cape Town

Bo-Kaap, previously known as the Malay Quarter, is a former township on the slopes of Signal Hill above the city; with its cheerfully coloured houses it's without doubt Cape Town's most photographed area

District 9, a mind-blowing movie from 2010 was based on the events that happened in Cape Town’s District 6. 60,000 African people were removed from their homes because the area has been declared as a district for the white community. People didn’t like it all that much and expressed their discontent in a peaceful way. The government wouldn’t have any of that insubordination so they sent all the rebellious souls to Robben Island. Nelson Mandela was one of those prisoners, possibly even The Prisoner. They eventually released him and he became the first black South African president. Things started looking better, but even now Cape Town is still scarred by its controversial past. You can learn more about apartheid and Cape’s history at the Robben Island (https://www.robben-island.org.za/) or the District Six Museum (https://www.districtsix.co.za/). You can also visit what’s left of the districts. They are communities similar to Brazilian favelas: poor, a bit dangerous but oh-so-colourful and vibrant with lovely people. Make sure you visit Mzoli's Place, located in the infamous Gugulethu, which wasn’t the safest place to be during apartheid. Mzoli’s Place has become a renowned place by now; it’s like a meat shop with a BBQ bar and a dash of a street party.

The City Hall of Cape Town at the Grand Parade, the city's main square where you can also find Nelson Mandela's statue

Cape Town's City Hall, built from honey-coloured limestone imported all the way from England is at the city's main square, the Grand Parade; right here Nelson Mandela addressed for the first time the South African nation after being released from prison in 1990 and Mandela's bronze statue on the city hall's balcony commemorates this historical event

Cape Town or Kaapstad as the name is in Afrikaans, one of the national languages, is nicknamed the “Mother City”. It is enormous, almost overwhelmingly. At some stage you will notice the mountains surrounding it and making you realize how tiny you are. The view from those mountains is breath-taking; you can hike to the top of the epic Table Mountain. Taking a cable cart is an option. I mean, who cares how you got there? It’s the destination that matters, not the journey. Lion’s Head, a legendary mountain, provides another perspective on Cape Town. You can see as far as the Robben Island and enjoy the perfect weather and nature even if you’re afraid of heights. This area of the world is famous for its beaches and surfing communities. People move to Cape Town to learn and improve their technique and it’s totally worth it. Beaches are many and they’re all stunning with golden white sands and ferocious waves. Muizenberg and Llandudno are two out of dozens of beaches worth checking out in the area. Beware of the sharks; the Cape’s waters are known for their large shark population. You can get close and personal with those apex predators. Just hire one of the companies that organize shark cage diving. Or go snorkelling if you’d rather meet the sharks without the cage.

I make it sound like there’s stuff to enjoy only outside of the city itself. Quite the contrary, Cape Town reminds me of New Orleans during Mardi Gras. It’s Victorian architecture, cosy balcony bars, and an everlasting party. Fuel up with the locals at the recently renovated Old Biscuit Mill with its many street food stands. Leave your dignity and self-control behind and head over downtown to Long St. and Green St. for a bar crawl of a lifetime. After-party at the Waterfront harbour area and enjoy life to the fullest while watching the sunrise.

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Auckland city guide

Some people call Auckland “Sydney's little sister” or “little Sydney” because of the many similarities between the two. Both are quite large, both have harbours and both were established as English colonies. And like all the English colonies there is a lot of “Victoria” stuff. Victoria Mount, Victoria streets, Victoria monuments; colonial times were times of some major brown-nosing. It was almost a race between who dedicates most discoveries to the Queen. This case was also quite interesting compared to the other colonies. The Maoris discovered New Zealand in the 14th century and began to settle in tribal communities. Tribes usually don’t like other tribes all that much, so they started fighting. They fought with the proverbial sticks and stones until the English came around. “That’s a nice boom stick you guys got there…” the Maoris said, “…I don’t think the other tribes have boom sticks”. And thus, a kindling of friendship was lit. The area where Auckland currently stands had a population of around 20 000 back then. That was a lot of people that the English could trade, negotiate and sign treaties with. The Treaty of Waitangi was signed in 1840, officially adding New Zealand to the British Empire and granting equal rights to the Maori. Those “equal rights” gave them English citizenship and stripped them of the right to their lands. All this resulted in the Maori (New Zealand) Wars which, according to some, last to this day. The armed conflict has, in fact, ended but lawyers in courtrooms now wage battles over lost property. 1840 was also when Auckland was established as the colony’s capital city. Wellington took over as the capital in 1865 but Auckland remains the most populous city in NZ. Pay a visit to the Auckland War Memorial Museum (https://www.aucklandmuseum.com/) where you can learn more about that history.

Beautiful waterfall Oakley Creeks Falls in Te Auaunga

Oakley Creek Falls situated in the Oakley Creek reserve, in Maori language known as Te Auaunga, is the only waterfall in the direct environment of Auckland

While it is a stunning city by itself, I believe that its surrounding areas are what make it really special. The land around Auckland and the city sits on top of over 50 volcanoes. Scientists say they’re inactive, but that’s probably what they thought in Pompei too. You’ll notice all the volcanic rock that formed from magma over millions of years if you keep an eye open. That’s what made this land so fertile and desirable. Mount Victoria. Just outside of town. Best view of Auckland. Yup, also a volcano. Remains of eruptions are clearly visible on many beaches around the city. Don’t expect golden sands and palm trees though, Auckland beaches are grim and dark like Game of Thrones. That doesn’t mean they lack charm; they might not be pretty but they’re very interesting. You’re very likely to come across surfer communities, as beaches west of Auckland are very popular spots for professional wave-riders. Not for the faint of heart, Piha beach is known for having its own emergency medical camp. Spots east of the city are more suitable for beginners. New Zealand’s landscapes are one of a kind. That’s one reason why Peter Jackson chose these islands as the background to his renowned trilogy. Lord of the Rings business is still booming, with Auckland being somewhat of a Mecca for Tolkien fans. Companies offer everything from Hobbiton weekend retreats to two-week-long LOTR tours (https://www.redcarpet-tours.com/).

Road sign warning for crossing kiwis near Auckland

Always watch out for kiwis crossing the road when driving in New Zealand

Auckland itself is fresh and colourful, just without much substance. Relatively young cities often lack that elusive “something”. It’s vibrant, fun and multicultural but there is no identity. It’s like a canvas that someone just started painting on. There is nothing more picturesque than the harbour with hundreds of yachts and couples watching the sunset. It’s also where Auckland’s food scene is at. World-renowned restaurants, wine from local wineries and plenty of street food. There is also a huge Asian population, which had an impact on a variety of cuisine. Try Mekong Baby (https://www.mekongbaby.com/) at 262 Ponsonby Rd, for great food and an amazing atmosphere. Tanuki (https://tanuki.co.nz/) at 319 Queen Street is my cup of tea, proper izakayas are hard to find and this one is legit. There are tapas bars around the North Wharf and ad hoc night markets on random parking lots. Auckland isn’t lacking when it comes to nightlife either, most of the action happens around Queen Street.

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