Odessa city guide

First time I learned about Odessa was while listening to Alosza Awdiejew's (Alyosha Avdyev`s) songs. I love that guy: he's the kind of this old school bard, singing about vodka, women and various crimes he and his friends might or might not have committed. It's gangsta rap straight out of the 1980s Soviet port town. Suffice to say, Odessa is a kind of place you just don't go to unless it's summer. That's why I was so surprised to discover how rich of a history and charm this town has. Mark Twain supposedly felt right at home the moment he came ashore from a long distance cruise and climbed the iconic Potemkin Stairs, in front of him a vibrant port town, the Black Sea behind him. The town that Twain was so enchanted by was discovered by Richelieu, a French mercenary, governed by Russian Empresses' one-eyed lover, built by exiled French architects and populated mostly by Jews, who sadly, were slaughtered by Romanian Nazi's a few months after Twain's vacation. Odessa has always been a city that underwent numerous trials, some bloody, some interesting, but mostly the kind that draws this ridiculously diverse community together.

Bird's eye view of the Odessa National Academic Theatre of Opera and Ballet with Black Sea at the background

The Odessa National Academic Theatre of Opera and Ballet is the city's oldest theatre of Odessa and together with the Potemkin Stairs the most famous landmarks of Odessa, the theatre's stunning rococo auditorium has unique acoustics due to its horseshoe shape

Modern Odessa is a stunning resort combined with a vibrant city life, I'd say it's kind of a Ukrainian Miami, minus the all-year-round climate, it's a bit dead here during the off-season. But, oh boy, are in for a treat if you visit it during the summer. If you're thinking it's just another post-communist Golden Sands copy, then you're wrong, Odessa is more like the French Riviera or Ibiza, modern and multi-cultural. Some still call it a "sunny place for shady people", but who cares. It isn't one of those medieval cities with castles and squares, or the usual Roman ruins, Odessa is pure entertainment, restaurants, clubs, beaches and beach bars with swimming pools, a thing which I will never understand. The only noteworthy landmarks are the Potemkin Stairs and the still functional Odessa Opera and Ballet Theater. The two hundred years old building is beautiful, but doesn't receive many visitors during the summer season; understandably, people would rather spend their days on the beach. It reminds me of La Scala in Milan.

Most of the good stuff is located around the Arkadia district, it's one huge boardwalk and concentrated dose of the best clubs and beaches in Odessa. "Ibiza" Beach Club (http://ibiza.ua/) and Bono (http://bono-beach.com.ua/) are said to be top spots not only in Odessa but in entire Ukraine. I don't think calling those two a club does them justice; they're more like mini-resorts on their own. You enter from the boardwalk, as if into another dimension with their own dance floor, restaurant, pools, even a closed off beach. That's the thing, club beaches are top notch, exclusive, high-end stuff, while the public ones are subpar, to say the least. There's also the Aqua Park with slides and some spa services. It's a great place to start your morning after a night of heavy partying around the Arkadia District.

The Ottoman Akkerman fortress at the Black Sea in Bilhorod-Dnistrovskyi near Odessa

Many visitors of Odessa book a day-trip to visit the Akkerman Fortress, an Ottoman waterfront fortresss from the 13th-14th centuries in Bilhorod-Dnistrovskyi in the Odessa region

Everything from food and lodging to drinks is pretty cheap. After all, it's Ukraine and the currency exchange services are surprisingly fair. Derybasivska Street is where you hang out when it's raining, or during any season other than summer. One of the oldest and longest streets in Odessa, named after its builder and first mayor José de Ribas is where locals and the more mature audiences go to party. As for the food and restaurants, you'll find a glorious mix of everything. Kebabs and your usual fast-food joints, seafood, oyster bars, or something unique like Israeli dishes at Dizyngoff restaurant. If you want to try some local, cheap and delicious Ukrainian meals then Grechka is one of those hidden gems that Odessites would rather keep for themselves.

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