Varna is a city well-known to the population of the Eastern Block. It is also slowly opening up to the western audience. Back when the Soviet Union was a thing, everyone knew about Varna. That city was a summer resort destination for all the big shots. Even after the Union fell apart. It still has that characteristic post-Soviet feel to it. Don’t get me wrong, I’m not downplaying Varna. It’s not called the Pearl of the Black Sea for no reason. It’s just a little unkept, like an older aunt who let herself go. You can see that proud, once-beautiful woman, who spoke fluent Russian, buried somewhere deep inside. Now she wears the tacky make-up of McDonald’s, Costa Cafes, and shopping malls.
Like with all the other sea resorts, there’s a promenade and the main street. Tourists rarely venture outside of the two. Keep the climate in mind as well. It’s not one of those cities that are in season for 365 days a year. You WILL need a jacket for the colder months. Varna can get desolate in winter too, almost 90% of businesses close down. No one likes sea resorts when the weather is crap. Its summer version could compete with the best of them, though. Overwhelmingly active nightlife, beautiful beaches, great food. Varna has it all.
The Dormition of the Mother of God Cathedral: Varna's main landmark and one of the largest Orthodox churches of Bulgaria
You can start your sightseeing with the Dormition of the Mother of God Cathedral. It’s one of the most iconic landmarks in Varna. Most orthodox churches are similar, but this one makes an impression. The outside is majestic like a giant elephant. The inside is even better, it’s vast and colourful, spacious like no other. Walls are intricately painted with religious symbols and scenes, yet it somehow doesn’t feel pompous. The cathedral remains serene without being overwhelming. That’s hard to achieve, considering it’s one of the largest temples in the Balkans.
From there you can take the main street and walk towards the seaside. You’ll reach a square with the New Yorker clothing shop. There’s also the best currency exchange in Varna, just around the corner. You’ll see a lot of Europeans here, even during winter. As a matter of fact, Bulgaria is becoming a major retirement destination for older folks. Real estate is silly cheap around here and you’ll notice that more and more people speak fluent English. With the climate and all the iodine in the air, I can’t think of a better place for old people to retire in.
Either way, keep walking towards the beach and you’ll eventually reach the Sea Gardens. They’re the focal point of Varna. A giant park with a ton of hidden nooks and crannies. It reminds me of Odessa, they have something similar there. The community “customizes” the area, kids are moving benches to spots better suited for them. There’s a stream you can follow to a tiny waterfall, the perfect place for two lovebirds to hang out. A bridge hangs over the same stream, they say it grants wishes if you can walk through it with your eyes closed without bumping into anything.
Golden Sands, the popular seaside resort, located 17 km north of Varna, offers great beaches and clean water
Roman baths are nearby. I think they’re untidy as hell and a bit random. Something so ancient should be maintained well, possibly renovated, but it’s just there. Disappointing. Go for the seaside instead. The beaches in Varna are the typical urban kind, but there’s more. There’s a hidden one in the northern parts of the city, mostly for locals. Golden Sands is the crown jewel of Bulgarian resorts. Beloved by locals and foreign tourists alike. Beautiful beaches, but without the big city hustle. You need to stop by Dalboka, a mussel farm just outside of Varna, on the way to Golden Sands. Learn how mussels are farmed while having a taste of some of the freshest seafood in the Balkans.
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