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Toronto city guide

Toronto is the largest city in Canada. It’s where people live their lives to the fullest and then move to Ottawa when they’re old. The land, where it stands was bought by the English in 1787 from a local tribe called the Mississaugas. The weirdest thing about those transactions is that the Europeans offered them complete garbage for this massive piece of land. They literally gave them kettles, mirrors, some gunflints, and booze. No wonder the natives were pissed off and disputed the legalities of those treaties. They came to an agreement just recently in 2010. I find it funny in a grotesque way. It’s been 200 years ago, so what if the tribe won the argument? They would now have this enormous city on their property: would have been awkward. Toronto was named York at first; then they renamed it following the Battle of York. A fort under the old name still stands and is a really cool museum, more of an experience than an exhibition. There’s even a functional kitchen from the period where they cook and serve original meals. Give it a shot; it’s definitely worth spending a few hours in, especially if the weather is good.

Gooderham or Flatiron Building in Toronto with skyscrapers at the background

The Gooderham or Flatiron Building in Toronto, once the head office of the Gooderham and Worts Distillery, stands like a ship's bow at the intersection of Church, Wellington and Front streets

The Distillery (https://www.thedistillerydistrict.com/) is another historic site, not as old but still interesting. Gooderham & Worts Distillery was founded back in 1869 and quickly became the largest producer of whiskey in Canada. People started drinking wine and beer and other spirits and the distillery went bankrupt. It’s operational and still makes Gooderham & Worts brand of whiskey but it’s a shadow of its former glory. Some passionate people transformed the entire district into something new. They remade it into a space for the young Torontians where they can express themselves and socialize. Sounds like one of those hipster projects? That’s exactly what it is. Some people love it and some hate that sort of community. Not your cup of tea? That’s fine; go hang out at one of Toronto’s many urban beaches. Chill at the Sunnyside Pavilion overlooking the lake. It used to be a huge complex of heated swimming pools and facilities. One of the pools was actually the largest in the world at that time. Nowadays it’s more of a restaurant and a venue for weddings, but it’s still a very pleasant spot for a date or a drink. It gives off that Lake Como vibe.

The CN Tower is the main landmark in Toronto. I’m partial to those sky towers since every major city has one and they all look the same. But in this case it is worth the visit. Make sure you come in early because people line up since morning. The view from up to gives you a perspective on how huge Toronto really is. There’s an added option of an Edge Walk, for $150 you can walk around the edge of the top plate of the tower. There are safety measures, like getting strapped in a harness but I probably couldn’t do it anyway. I’d rather be a daredevil in the virtual reality of video games. The Rec Room (https://www.therecroom.com/) is a true playground for man-children like myself. I don’t even know where to start with this one. It’s an enormous building full of arcades, restaurants, clubs and cutting-edge VR equipment. There’s even an axe-throwing range so you can role-play Friday 13th’s Jason while downing a pitcher of brew.

Modern building of Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto by night

The Royal Ontario Museum: the largest and most-visited museum of Canada and an architectural masterpiece on its own

If you’re too old for this kind of stuff, or you’re a recovering video game addict then there might be better options. You could explore for instance the Kensington district. It feels like a mix between new age San Francisco and Brooklyn. There are coffee and bookshops, second-hand clothing, some really unique stuff. And the constantly changing graffiti in the narrow alleys is a treat for the eye. Kensington is the perfect spot to spend your afternoon, sipping on a latte and smoking a spliff. It’s legal now in Canada. Or the Art Gallery of Ontario (AGO), you wouldn’t have thought that the museum was established in 1900, looking at its modern exteriors. It’s quite impressive; just wait till you see all the impressive collections it houses.

That variety and multiculturalism is a treasured feature of this city. People flocked to Toronto over the years creating small communities. So you got Chinatown, Little Italy, Little Poland, Little Tokyo, Little Greece, etc. I was always curious: is it really multicultural when they close themselves off in those enclaves? What’s the point when you only live among your own people? Those areas are worth checking out even if just for the authentic food. Also, don’t miss out on St. Lawrence Market, the nr.1 food market in the world according to National Geographic.

Manila city guide

Manila is hailed as the most dangerous city in the Philippines and even one of the most dangerous in Asia, if not the entire world. But usually you hear this from people who have never been there. Sure, there are areas where you can get mugged after dark, but that can be said about any other city. After all, you even could get beaten up in Vatican City if you tried hard enough. People cruise around ghettos after dark, looking for that perfect Instagram shot and then they wonder why they’re in trouble. The only things you really need to be mindful of are the pickpockets and minor scams. Oh, and earthquakes. And tsunamis. If you’re willing to move past the stereotypes you’ll discover a beautiful tropical city with a rich history. Let’s see if it’s true and if the capital is worth a visit despite the “risks”. Manila is awesome; it’s like a pocket South America, but in Asia. A bit of an acquired taste, some people hate it at first but fall in love with the city during a second visit.

Arch of the Centuries at the Plaza Intramuros of the University of Santo Tomas in Manila

The Arch of the Centuries is perhaps the most visited tourist attraction in Manila; the triumphal arch symbolizes of the acquisition of knowledge: a gate to greatness located on the territory of the University of Santa Thomas (UST)

The Spanish colonial crew established Manila in 1571. They built Fort Santiago because military fortifications were a popular thing to have. It survived the British invasion, American occupation and the infamous Manila Massacre caused by the Japanese. They made the Fort into a prison, hundreds of people suffocated and died cramped up in tiny cells. Hundreds more were executed because the Japanese were massive dicks back then. They even took the most beautiful and under aged women from the wealthiest districts and put them in “rape centres”. I won’t get into detail about what went on there but I imagine you get the idea. I mean, holy shit, this city went through a rough patch. And that’s not counting the natural disasters; earthquakes happen almost as often as in Tokyo.

If you’d like to check more of what remains of the Spanish colonial empire then you’re in luck. Intramuros is the oldest district in Manila with the most interesting buildings and churches. Casa Manila is a museum showcasing how people lived during that period. They even have an old-school wooden lavatory, like the one Tywin died on in Game of Thrones. Manila Metropolitan Theatre is haunting; it looks like something from the 4th season of American Horror Story. There are also a shocking number of churches, at least for an Asian country. Most of them are stunning. You need to see the Manila Cathedral, which has been rebuilt 8 times because of various disasters. San Agustin Church is the oldest in the Philippines; there is also a museum inside the monastery on church grounds. It’s an awesome place to learn about the history of Christianity in Manila. The Chinese have been a big part of the city’s population. Binondo, established in 1594, is actually the oldest Chinatown in the world. What’s the deal with Chinese people and forming these closed off communities? They also have their own graveyard because Filipinos refused to allow them burial on Christian grounds. It’s also where the Japanese executed their prisoners.

View of the Greenbelt Park against the backdrop of Manila's skyscrapers

The Greenbelt Park is an oasis amongst Manila's skyscrapers: a small but very green and cozy park surrounded by several shopping malls in the Makati district

Modern Manila is usually considered a stepping-stone on the journey to explore many tropical islands in the archipelago. But people keep coming back and in many cases they decide to stay for good. You can live like a king for $1500 a month. That includes an apartment with a gym and a pool, food, bills, everything. Also, everyone speaks English so there is no language barrier. Bonifacio Global City is the most modern and developed part of Manila; they even call it “the Filipino New York”. It’s packed with Starbucks, skyscrapers and some of the largest malls in the world. It’s home to the SM Mall of Asia, which was the largest in Asia when it was built. Shopping is a big thing among expats living in Manila, you can buy designer clothing and accessories for 1/3rd of its western price.

Philippine people and their warm hospitality are truly amazing. They’ll treat you like family; they will stuff you with delicious local food and invite you for drinks. It might not be a party central like Bangkok but Manila isn’t far behind. The same thing could be said about food. You can find anything out on the streets: burgers, takoyaki, sushi but the local tastes are something else. Prepare yourself for chicken feet, intestines, clotted blood and the last but not the least: the balut. Sucking a duck embryo with vinegar straight out of its shell is not my thing but some people seem to love it. Most people party around Poblacion where you’ll find the largest concentration of bars and pubs and which is located next to Manila’s red light district.

Oslo city guide

Oslo, the name sounds like the main character in a comedy sitcom. Is it a goofy puppy in a cartoon? No? Must be me being weird. Anyway, you need to keep a few things in mind when visiting the capital of Norway. It’s a part of Schengen but does not belong to the actual European Union. It’s expensive but not for the sake of being expensive. The prices are high but you see where the taxes are going to, it’s one of the best places to live in on earth. I’d go as far as calling Norway the European Emirates because of the quality of living. Also because of the largest oil deposits outside of UAE. As an interesting article in the Independent reported (https://www.independent.co.uk/environment/norway-oil-drilling-arctic-ban-labor-party-unions-a8861171.html) they actually refused to drill for oil in their Arctic territories. That is a big deal in these times of global warming. Sacrificing personal gain for the good of the environment? Go Norway! I know that the “hidden gem” term is overused but Oslo is definitely a hidden gem.

When planning a trip, I’d recommend taking a small detour, fly to Gdansk and take the ferry to Oslo. It’s an amazing experience and gives you a bit of a taste of Baltic waters. What to do when you arrive? Start with the museums, they’re all bunched up in one place around the Bygdøy peninsula. Learn about fascinating Viking long ships they used to traverse the Atlantic Ocean at the Viking Ship Museum (https://www.khm.uio.no/besok-oss/vikingskipshuset/). Visit the Fram Museum (https://frammuseum.no/), or as I like to call it, the frostbite museum and learn about polar expeditions. Or make a stop at the Kon-Tiki Museum (https://www.kon-tiki.no/). It pays tribute to Thor Heyerdahl; an absolute mad Norwegian that took a bamboo raft across the Pacific Ocean. There is also book about this amazing adventure and the movie Kon-Tiki released in 2012 is definitely worth watching too. I could go on about others like the Museum of Cultural History, or the Maritime one. Best advice I can give: just take a walk around Bygdøy and enter anything that looks interesting.

The medieval Akershus Fortress in Oslo

The massive walls of the Akershus Fortress in Oslo, built in the end of the 13th century, hide a surprisingly elegant Renaissance palace and a castle chapel where the kings of Norway rest

Oslo is filled to the brim with cool spots to experience. Visit the Akershus Fortress for an awesome view of the Akker Bryge district. You can see the Oslo National Opera House on the eastern side of the hill. There’s even a World War 2 Museum there, if you haven’t had your fill of museums by now. Head north and you’ll come across the Royal Palace, I think it’s nothing special but still worth checking out. Go straight for the Vulkan district if you feel like it. It’s an industrial area turned into a haven for the alternative community. It’s also home to Oslo’s first food market hall and some of the most charming riverside cafes I’ve ever seen. The market is really cool, the freshest meat and produce you can buy in the city. You can even learn to cook it on the spot; they actually host workshops like that. What’s weird is that just a few years ago you wouldn’t even find any stalls with fish. They have this huge coastline but they didn’t eat fish, they exported most of it to Asia. Imagine this: they export fresh fish and import frozen Tilapia. Even the glorious Norwegian salmon went to Japan where it started the salmon sushi obsession. I’m not even joking. They went back to their fish-eating roots only recently. It’s one of a few places in the world where you can treat yourself to whale meat. You can have a shot at this peculiar piece of flesh in the form of sushi, or fried like a steak. They say it tastes like beef. Norwegians love their take on hotdogs, sausage injected with cheese and wrapped in bacon. I’m not too keen, to be fair, injectable cheese sounds wrong. Brown cheese, on the other hand, is delicious. It’s a part of this nations’ heritage, there’s nothing special about it, apart from being brown.

Oslo Fjord bay with colourful houses on the shore

Norway is beloved for its fjords and has more than 1100 of these impressive natural landmarks, amongst them Oslo Fjord (Oslofjorden in Norwegian), which is very popular due to its easy access from the capital and ideal for island hopping

I’m conflicted as to which part of Oslo is my favourite; it’s either Vulkan or Akker Brygge. I’m leaning towards Aker Brygge. This bay side district is the beating heart of the Norwegian capital. Keep in mind that it’s not the warmest part of the world; it gets COLD during non-summer seasons. There is no better way of warming yourself up than jumping into a sauna. They have those tiny floating sauna-boats lined up along the piers. There are even ladders inside so you can drop down to the ice-cold waters. It’s even better when it’s summer, people can jump in straight from the sidewalk or a diving platform. It’s awesome. In most places on earth you’d get at least a minor dose of radiation from all the waste people throw into the water. Aker Brygge is the place to go for Oslo nightlife as well. Try iconic spots such as the Thief Bar and Latter Restaurant & Bar, they also host the best stand-up comedy events in Norway.

Abu Dhabi city guide

It never ceases to amaze and worry me at the same time how dependent we are on natural resources. How the discovery of oil can elevate a good part of a continent from fishermen villages to riches and skyscrapers. But the mindset shaped by religion and tradition still remains. It reminds me of the time I got my paws on inheritance money. I immediately started thinking about all the stupid shit I could spend it on. I did that, without any regard for the future when the money dries out. That’s what Abu Dhabi does. What happens when there is no more oil? Do they capitalize on tourism? Will they save up enough to maintain the infrastructure? Let’s hope they will because the city is nothing short of remarkable. Especially if you consider its humble beginnings. Scientists discovered recently stone wall formations (geo glyphs) visible from space. Located around the deserts southeast of Abu Dhabi they’re supposed to be remains of ancient cities. There are stories about the city of Iram inhabited by all kinds of mythical creatures. The Djinn, the Nephilim giants, even H.P. Lovecraft portrayed it as the birthplace of the Necronomicon and the cult of Cthulhu. There’s a grain of truth in every story. The thing is, all the modern hate towards the Arab world makes us ignore its fascinating origins.

Wooden boats at beach with Abu Dhabi skyline at backdrop

In Abu Dhabi modern times and traditions go hand in hand

Abu Dhabi stands for “Father Gazelle” and it was established during an actual gazelle hunt. A simple water hole quickly stretched out towards the coast and nearby islands. Those were the times they didn’t know about the oil beneath. People made a living with pearl diving and fishing. You can see how they lived during those years at the Heritage Village. Buy some souvenirs, pet the occasional camel, good stuff. Or hit one of the souks, local markets where people snack on dates (the fruit, not a person) and sip coffee. It was BP that pioneered the oil trade in the region back in the 1930s. Sounds familiar? It’s the same BP that caused one of the most disastrous ecological “accidents” of the modern age. What’s the current Abu Dhabi all about? It’s like playing Theme Park, Sim City, and The Sims. It’s a sandbox (no pun indented) where people threw a bunch of ideas without much thought to it. The royal family went easy on the country’s infamous regulations and it’s much more enjoyable now. You can drink, in some places. You can dress casually, in some places. You’re not restricted in any way, in some places. Homosexuality is still illegal, though.

Before you start exploring all those wet dreams of its man-child architects, make sure you get a few Abu Dhabi essentials in. Start with the Sheikh Zayed Mosque, not only the largest mosque in the UAE but also a monument of them opening up to the western civilization. It’s surprisingly relaxed for a place of worship. Women still need to dress accordingly but a shirt and proper pants will do for men. You can access most of the areas, you can even take photos, which was unexpected for me. The mosque is jaw dropping, it’s the largest building made of marble in the world. It’s also home to the largest carpet in the world and a couple of giant chandeliers made of gold gems. It can fit over 41,000 worshippers at the same time, it really puts things into perspective. Then there’s the museum area with exhibitions showcasing Islamic artefacts and treasures. I highly recommend it. The Emirates Palace is another site that you just need to see for yourself. Hats off, if you can afford a night at this 5* hotel. It opened in 2005 and it’s ridiculous, it cost over $3 billion to build. The main theme is gold and marble, fitting for a place of accommodation for guests of the royal family. There are beautiful beaches and marinas where you can watch the sunset. Many hotels call themselves a palace, but this one is the real deal.

Beautiful woman enjoying sunset in Abu Dhabi

Watching sunset: a favourite pastime of visitors of Abu Dhabi

Saadiyat Island is one of the latest development areas in Abu Dhabi, tailored to western tourists. It’s, for the most part, devoted to culture and art. They’re planning on restaurants and shopping areas as well, but museums and art galleries are the focus of this island. They even have their own Louvre and Guggenheim museums; I wasn’t aware that the Louvre is a franchise. I like how Abu Dhabi has an island for every occasion. You got your island with Arabic history; you got an island for arts and culture and an artificial island that doesn’t even know what it will become. Yas Island is a place of more lighthearted entertainment. You can call it an amusement park island. There’s the Ferrari World Abu Dhabi with the world’s fastest roller coaster. Warner Bros World, Waterworld, Sea World, I think they’re only missing Disney World at this point.

Shanghai city guide

Shanghai is one of the most interesting cities on earth. I had this image in my mind that China, being a socialist country, would be a proper dump. I couldn’t have been more wrong. The Chinese metropolis is running laps around the rest of the world in terms of development. People say they advance ten years in the span of one. It’s an exaggeration but not by a lot. You can literally take a magnetic hover train from the airport to the city. It only takes a few minutes running at 300 km/h. It’s Star Wars stuff. Shanghai is located at the Yangtze River Delta and is the largest shipping container port in the world. I have a fling for shipping containers; people build incredible houses out of those. Just to put things into perspective: over 26 million people live in Shanghai. Just imagine: that’s more than the entire population of Australia. They don’t mess around when they say it’s the #1 city in terms of population. It was already huge even before the 19th-century opium era. People couldn’t pass on the trade potential of this kind of territory. A few minor bumps on Shanghai’s road to greatness were unavoidable. A war here and there, an occasional embargo, and a dash of communism: stuff like that. And then there were of course the concessions, which is a fancy word for becoming a colony. In Shanghai’s case, the English and the French had their way with the city for a while. The real economic boom started when the Chinese opened up to foreign markets and investors in 1990. Electronics, counterfeit clothing, trade, infamous child labour; all feeds this economic machine that isn’t slowing down. Imagine the regime of living in a metropolis without Facebook and Instagram. That’s Shanghai.

Yu Garden at evening in Shanghai

Yu Garden and Yuyuan Bazaar: with their magnificent ancient achitecture and lively markets the tourist staples of Shanghai

I think this race to greatness is the main cause why Shanghai feels a bit off. They say it’s the gateway to China, where east meets west. I believe there’s a touch too much west in their east. There’s still the ancient Chinese stuff, like from a Miyazaki movie. But I wish there was more. You need to see the Yu Gardens. I’m not sure why it’s called a garden. It’s more of a tiny district within Shanghai and it is basically, Shanghai Old Town. It took 20 years to build and is over 400 years old. There are beautiful palaces built around streams, small temples, and charming pagodas. It’s lovely. Visit it in the morning and you’ll see old folks doing their Tai Chi routine. There’s a reason why they all live for so long. Shanghai is home to one of the most unnerving and architecturally unique buildings I’ve ever seen. I am talking about the Slaughterhouse complex built in 1933 and which goes under the name Old Millfun or just 1933. It reminds me of the Arkham Asylum from Batman. It was the largest abattoir in China and even Asia back in the days but now it serves as a mall/community centre. It’s so bizarre and convoluted that I wonder how it even served its original purpose. It’s grey and ugly but at the same time strangely hypnotic, almost “Lovecraftian”. Buying sneakers or having a Starbucks coffee and a muffin at the site of the death of thousands of animals is messed up. It is an unforgettable experience.

Golden figures of Buddha, Longua Temple Shanghai

Longhua Temple: with a history of over 1,700 years the oldest temple in Shanghai

Shanghai can be expensive but only if you visit the spots tailored towards the western clientele. A beer at a place for expats costs up to $10 while the same exact beer at a bar for locals is less than $1. That’s quite a spread. Westerners tend to complain about Shanghai’s breakfast street food for the masses. It’s not super tasty and a bit bland. But it’s nutritious and keeping people functional for a long day of work is its original purpose. They serve noodles, buns, dumplings and a variety of crepes: all simple food. Most of the stuff you see in Chinese restaurants in Europe was not meant for the working class but traditionally dishes for wealthy merchants and royalty. Thankfully, you don’t need to look far for delicious meals customized towards foreigners. The variety and richness of the food scene in Shanghai is beyond imagination. The go-to spot for authentic Chinese cuisine would be the Old Jesse at 41 Tianping Rd. it’s cramped and doesn’t look like anything special. But hey, it’s mentioned in the Michelin guide, so you know it’s good stuff. They turn pork dishes into an art form.

I said that Shanghai got westernized a bit too much and I was not kidding. You can find burger and taco joints around every corner, Cuban restaurants and such. Hit Austin Hu’s Diner if you’re longing for familiar tastes. The guy is somewhat of a genius mixing Chinese, Japanese recipes into smashed burgers and fries. Good stuff. There are so many unique nightlife spots in Shanghai. Found 158, for example, is sort of an underground square filled with bars and restaurants. Both tourists and locals love this place for its variety of restaurants and bars like Blackstone (https://www.blackstonemagicbar.com/) where you can take part in magic tricks while getting smashed. What I like most about Asian nightlife are the so-called “speakeasy” bars. Why don’t we have more of these in Europe? Bars hidden behind bookshelves, inside Coca Cola machines, behind elevator doors: I think it’s an amazing concept. Ask around for Flask or Speak Low: two of the most iconic speakeasy bars in town.

Chișinău city guide

Chișinău (or Kishinev in Russian) is one of those capitals that are still digging themselves out of that Soviet hole…and oh boy, does it struggle. This multilingual capital of Moldova doesn’t make the best first impression. Feels like you just woke up from a nightmare and you’re glad you woke up, but you still got that aftertaste of terror. In autumn it’s like Kishinev had been abandoned for years like Chernobyl and people are just beginning to resettle it. The roads are pretty messed up, sidewalks have seen better days; even grass has a brownish green shade of rot. Ugly blocks of Soviet architecture cover Chișinău like ulcers, but the people are doing their best to cover it up with street art and folk traditions buried deep within their identity. If it’s so bad out there, then why are there so many brand new Porsches, Mercedes, and BMWs casually cruising around town? It’s a trend in all the post-communist countries; they’re corrupt to the core. The “Heist of the Century” happened in Moldova 2014, 1 billion $ miraculously evaporated from banks, a percentage of that money is in that shiny Porsche driving on those mangled streets. There are always those people that would rather stuff their own pockets than let their country bloom after years of oppression.

Chisinau Town Hall illuminated at night

Town Hall in the center of Chisinau, built in 1901, almost destroyed during the Second World War and rebuilt after according to preserved drawings

I think the best way to judge the state of a city is having a look at its main market; it’s the everyday life of a common citizen. Piata Centrala is the main trading area in Chișinău and it’s a glorious mess of shapes, sizes, smells, and tastes. It reminds me of the 90s to early 2000s Warsaw and the 10th-Anniversary Stadium, where people made a living selling anything from bear cubs to fake passports. Poor people from the countryside flock to the city during the weekends and try to sell whatever they can: meat, dairy, produce, everything picked up just a few hours earlier. It might not be the most sanitary market out there, but it sure is lively.

Moldova is famous for its wine industry. The national wine festival takes place in Chișinău on the first weekend of October, at the end of the wine harvest season. It’s a tradition that dates back to the 15th century and it’s not only a showcase of delicious beverages but also a festival rooted deeply in folk culture. An amazing tourist attraction, it’s something along the lines of Oktoberfest, but with wine instead of beer. The dancing and singing and colourful clothing are all there, they’re just missing the Lederhosen. That’s one place to experience all the culture in one place. Moldova Ethnological Museum (https://www.muzeu.md/) at Mihai Kogalniceanu str. 82 is the second one. It’s immensely popular among both tourists and locals, opened in 1889 it stores over 130 000 unique artefacts from the region and beyond. If you only have one day in Kishinev and you’d like to learn as much as you can about Moldova then this is definitely the right place.

Wooden Church near Chisinau from a birds eye view

Wooden Church: a unique seventeenth-century functional church at the entrance to Chisinau

Chișinău and its people like calling their city the greenest capital in Europe and it’s true, to an extent. They have many green areas and parks, such as Parcul Valea Moriloro, built around an artificial lake of sorts. It’s a very relaxing spot in Kishinev where you can spend your time in various ways. You can rent a canoe and swim around the lake; you could sunbathe on a sandy beach or have a picnic on a grassy meadow. Pack a bottle of local wine, sausage, some cheese and you’re set for a lovely day out in the sun. There’s also free Wi-Fi in most parks in Kishinev if you like to work or watch a movie outside on a laptop.

Nightlife in the capital of Moldova is a blast and I know from personal experience that people from post-communist countries take their partying almost religiously. It’s also really cheap; €50 are a small fortune in Moldova. 31st August 1989 Street is the place with the highest concentration of bars and clubs; it’s also where you can jump onto one of those organized bar-crawling wagons for tourists. Steampunker’s Bar at Mihail Kogalniceanu St 62 and Barbar at Mihai Eminescu St. 56 are worth checking out.

Rio de Janeiro city guide

Rio de Janeiro was masterfully portrayed in Fast and Furious 5 aka Furious 5. I’m dead serious. This marvel of modern cinematography managed to show all sides of this colourful city. The possible most iconic beach in the world, the definitely most iconic Jesus in the world, the cars, the girls and the money: the movie had the whole package. You can have all that in Rio if you’re muscular, bald and your name is Vin. Remember that being a superhero doesn’t come without any downsides. You’ll have to fight the corrupt government, sleep around in the sewers and fight Dwayne “The Rock” Johnson. Wait, was it in the same movie? I lost track. I don’t think Rio is nice or beautiful or even a pleasant city to visit. I think it’s dirty, chaotic and dangerous in a romantic kind of way. I think Rio de Janeiro has huge balls and heaps of character. It’s where certain kinds of people gravitate to: misfits, adventurers, and explorers; people who wants to get lost. I think it’s a Portuguese thing. There might not be much to see but just being there feels amazing. I also have a fling for the language; it’s sensual and it swings.

The statue of Christ the Redeemer standing on the top of Corcovado mountain in Rio de Janeiro

Christ the Redeemer, the Art Deco statue of Jesus Christ in Rio de Janeiro at the summit of Corcovado mountain

There are about four landmarks worth checking out in Rio de Janeiro. Let’s start with the most iconic Jesus in the world (second to the actual Jesus from the Book): Christ the Redeemer. People say he stands in a position of peace and welcoming but I think differently. It’s a “come at me bro!” pose. He’s taunting you to take the pilgrimage. Jesus doesn’t believe you got what it takes to climb up that hill. It’s not an easy hike, especially when Rio gets super-hot and crowded. Take my advice and go during early morning hours when it’s cool and not as packed. You can also take an elevator, but what would Jesus do? He wouldn’t cheat on a pilgrimage. Sugarloaf Mountain is another option if you’d like to catch a panoramic view of the bay and entire Rio. There is no Jesus there so you can take a cart to the top without a guilty conscience.

Theatro Municipal is the second stop on the tour of my favourite spots in Rio de Janeiro. It’s an opera house and, in my opinion, the most beautiful building in the entire city. It was built in 1905 and can host ballet and concerts for over 2000 people, very impressive for a building from those times. The entire plaza the opera it stands upon is dedicated to high culture. National Library and Museu Nacional de Belas Artes are both jaw-dropping buildings that guard the vast heritage of Brazil. If you’re into that kind of architecture then you need to check the Parque Lage out. It’s an estate that belonged to one Enrique Lage, which became in 1960 the most amazing park in Rio. There’s a café within the courtyard of the mansion from where you can see the Sugarloaf. It’s a truly stunning place.

Beautiful lake with mountains and wild natural landscape near Rio de Janeiro

Beautiful lake with mountains and wild natural landscape in the countryside of Rio de Janeiro near Guapiacu

Now that we got all that out of the way, let’s dive into the meat and potatoes of Rio de Janeiro. You can feel this city’s heartbeat as soon as you leave your hotel room. It’s hot, it’s crowded and it’s really loud, a mass of glorious chaos. Walk the steamy streets and marvel at the many murals and colourful graffiti. Who needs art galleries when your entire city is art? Stroll a little bit further and take a whiff, what’s that heavenly smell? Probably it’s a churrascaria barbequing fresh meat. All you can eat will cost you around $30. You can stuff yourself with so much food you’ll have to wheelchair yourself out. Brazilians love their meats and they know how to handle them. Grab a caipirinha and head for the beach.

Which beach? Copacabana, what else? I bet the name rings a bell. I personally know a bunch of “Copacabana” striptease clubs. Easily one of the most famous coastlines in the world, one look at it and you’ll realize the title is not undeserved. It’s a gorgeous 4km long stretch of clear, yellow sand. Unfortunately it’s also packed with people. It can also get slightly dangerous out there because of a nearby favela. Don’t walk around with your wallet in your back pocket and you’ll be fine. Leblon and Ipanema beaches are both a bit less crowded if that’s what you’re looking. The best thing about these is the Brazilian national sport. They’ll tell you how they’re obsessed about football. Every kid from the favelas wants to be the next Ronaldo. The reality is very much different. Women’s beach volleyball is where it’s at. They just won’t admit it. There are courts every couple of meters with those tanned Brazilian beauties bouncing around. If you’re a meathead like me, you’ll probably want to pay the Flintstones Gym a visit. It’s not California Muscle Beach but the rustic, concrete weights have a charm of their own and it’s become a bit of a cult spot.

Bucharest city guide

Nicolae Ceaușescu, Count Dracula, Transylvania, gloom, misery and garlic is what most people think of when Romania comes to mind. But what do we really know about this country and its capital Bucharest? The country always possessed a unique place in Eastern Europe and especially the Romanian people think they are very different from the surrounding countries. They do not even consider themselves as Balkan people. And at least as language is concerned they are very correct. Where almost all countries in the region (except for Hungary) are considered to be Slavic, Romanians can connect easier with Italians, French et cetera. After the territory of the current Romania was part of the Roman Empire for a long time it faced many wars and conflicts, not in the last place invasions by Ottomans and other neighbouring countries. But despite the turbulent times, the country and especially Bucharest would profit from centuries of prosperity and development.

Bucharest, Bucuresti in Romanian, became Vlad Tepes’ seat of power in 1459 and would transform into one of the wealthiest European cities. In the beginning of the last century when the Europeans become more mobile It became a popular travel destination for the rich and famous. There were traditionally strong ties with France and the local aristocrats speak even French amongst each other. A lot of architecture including a smaller version of the Arc de Triomphe was modelled after French examples, and the city was even called the “Paris of East”.

The huge Palace of the Parliament (Palatul Parlamentului) to the backdrop of a dramatic grey sky

Palace of the Parliament: the overwhelmingly large legacy of Nicolae Ceaușescu in the centre of Bucharest, after the December 1989 revolution it became also commonly known as Casa Poporului which translates as The People's House

That is until it got hit by devastating bombings during World War 2 and two earthquakes, which massacred the population and flattened the city like an ice cream sandwich. Nicolae Ceaușescu, the famous mad dictator and his wife Elena took over and started rebuilding the Romanian capital in a true communist fashion. Their megalomania was beyond all imaginable borders and the Romanian people suffered big time. Bucharest’s skyline became dominated by huge repulsing buildings, to which the iconic Palace of the Parliament stands testament to this day. Originally named the People’s House is the world’s second largest administrative building, worth checking out even if just for that. It’s so huge that 70% of the space is not in use and its energy costs run over 6 million dollar per year; for that amount you can keep a medium-sized city warm throughout the year. Around 40,000 people were forced to relocate from the building area and according to some estimations approximately 3,000 builders lost their life during the construction works. It was the ultimate madness and almost impossible to imagine this was possible in Europe during the 80’s.

Quite some time ago my very first business trip brought me to Bucharest where I had to participate in an international workshop. I will never forget how overwhelmed I was by the size of the building. I am not sure how it is nowadays but back then the authorities could not afford to heat all the rooms and I can still remember how freezing cold it was in most parts when we had a guided tour. I had the opportunity to have a look at the balcony at the front side of the palace where the leader was supposed to stand and address the people. But history decided to take another turn and the Ceaușescus did not witness the completion of this monstrous project, let alone that they could set foot on the balcony. Nicolae and Elena Ceaușescu were executed on the 25th of December 1989. Being shot on Christmas Day after a show trial of just 1 hour: a more ugly final of an ugly era you can hardly imagine. But it was not the first and certainly not the last time. History repeats itself and dictatorships rarely end peacefully as we learned from the fates of Muammar Gaddafi and Saddam Hussein, to name just a few, decades later.

Curtea Veche (the Old Princely Court) with the bust of Vlad Tepes in centre of Bucharest

The remains of Curtea Veche (the Old Princely Court) are in the very centre of the Old Town of Bucharest, the palace was built in 1459 in order of Vlad III Dracula, also known as Vlad the Impaler

Visit also the historic old town of Bucuresti to witness how determined the people are to leave the dark days behind and transform the city into a tourism and nightlife destination for people from all over the world. Local nightlife is thrilling and vibrant and compulsory to explore when you have some free time in the evening. There is a growing number of night clubs In Bucharest that can easily compete with the ones in the bigger western European cities when it comes to service level, music and design. If you are not the dancing type, just have a seat at the bar and watch the scene: the local girls populating the dance floors until the early morning hours are stunning. When doing some sight seeing in Bucharest don’t forget to check out Vlad Tepes’ statue at the Old Princely Court. That guys’ tomb lays at Lake Snagov, which is definitely worth taking a trip outside of town if you got the time.

Bratislava city guide

Bratislava became the Slovakian capital in 1993, following its separation from Czechoslovakia. They joined the EU 11 years later and quickly became one of the most prosperous European countries. First signs of a settlement are from 2nd century AD and of course it were the Romans. Afterwards the Slavs hanged out for a while and Magyars took over for almost a millennium. This former military fortress town had less than 6000 citizens, back in the 14th century when the city’s first university was established. It grew exponentially and is now home to around 450 000, which is still small compared to the rest of European capitals. It is a charming city, especially for people that enjoy exploring museums and taking in rich church interiors and religious art. Most of the sights are located around the Old Town and its numerous squares. The most famous one is Hlavné Námestie, which literally means Main Square, the place where peddlers aim to sell of sorts of crap to malleable tourists. The entire area is very compact but filled with extravagant palaces, historic fountains and statues. You will probably come across several weddings, just because everyone wants to get married at the Old Town. Churches are booked for years to come, especially the characteristic Church of St. Elizabeth, commonly known as the Blue Church. Also, try to stay away from restaurants around the area, unless you’re cool with paying €3 for ketchup as a side to your €5 fries. A delicious burger with sides rarely costs more than €7 outside of the “Scam Old Town”.

Michalska ulica and Michael's Gate in Bratislava's medieval Old Town

Bratislava might not as big and popular as neighbouring Vienna or rival Prague but the Old Town is particularly charming; Michael's Gate is the last remaining gate from the medieval period

Bratislava shares many of its qualities with the rest of the post-communist era cities. While Paris is known as the “City of Eternal Love”, some consider Bratislava the “City of Not-So-Eternal Love”. People tend to change their minds, don’t they? The staple Old Town, historic centre of the city, is great but as soon as you leave that area you get bombarded with a chaotic mess of architecture. Imagine a medieval castle and a bridge that looks like it was taking straight out of a Star Trek movie in the same picture. I’m talking about the infamous UFO Bridge over the Danube, it’s actually pretty awesome, and you can even get on top of it for the best view of the city, especially during the night. Locals say the best view is from that bridge, because you can’t see the bridge itself, which just doesn’t fit to the surroundings.

Girl taking picture of Most SNP (UFO Bridge) over the Danube in Bratislava

The Bridge of the Slovak National Uprising (Most SNP), nicknamed UFO Bridge because of the shape of its observation deck, is the world's longest bridge with just one pylon and one cable-stayed plan

Bratislava won’t let you down if you’re into vistas and panoramas, Kamzik TV Tower is located in the middle of a forest, five minutes outside of city centre, the view is amazing and they even got one of those rotating restaurants, as the whole floor rotates clockwise while you’re eating. Personally I’m not sure if I could keep the food down in those circumstances. If you’re into that whole hipster culture, you’ll feel right at home in Bratislava. Slovaks spend their summer evenings at numerous bars and urban beaches on the banks of river Danube, but the city isn’t lacking in the regular club scene either, try KC Dunaj (https://www.kcdunaj.sk/) at Nedbalova 435/3 for a chill evening or The Club (https://www.theclubbratislava.com/) at Rybné námestie 4135/1 for a full on techno experience.

That’s the surface; underneath it all is an ancient, European city that does its best to catch up with the modern world. Vienna is nearby and Bratislava has a stellar role model to follow. It’s so close you can take a boat ride from one city to the other, which is especially great during summer. People say it’s one of the most enjoyable cities to explore on foot. Be it the Old Town and its maze-like little alleys, the Devin castle (only a 30 minute bus ride outside of Bratislava), or numerous museums if the weather gets unpleasant. A rare opera at the Slovak National Theatre is also quite an experience. It was actually the place where I saw the first opera of my life: La Bohème, composed by Giacomo Puccini. It was an amazing experience and at the point of some aria my female company couldn’t control herself anymore and she burst into to tears. I still remember how surprised I was because she was from the Nordic countries and I always thought these people are pretty “cool”. So it turned out she was very passionate and dared to show her emotions, which is a big plus in my book.

If you would have time for a trip outside the city, you should definitely visit the Danubiana Meulensteen Art Museum, located in Čunovo, about 15 kilometers south of Bratislava. It is one of the youngest contemporary art museums in Europe and its exhibitions and permanent collection include beautiful pieces by renowned Slovak and international artists. The location of the museum is a work of art in itself: on the edge of a peninsula where the impressive Danube flows and where the three countries of Slovakia, Austria and Hungary meet. From the roof terrace you have an amazing panoramic view and when the weather allows you definitely should also stroll around in the surrounding park, which is home to around 60 great sculptures.

Kraków city guide

Kraków (Cracow) is the first thing that comes to mind when people are asked about Poland, or third, after kielbasa and vodka. All right, fourth or even fifth since I almost forgot about pierogis…and Lech Walesa. Kraków is beautiful, full of historic sights, legends and royal atmosphere. It used to be the Polish capital and for good reason, the iconic Wawel Castle for example with its mausoleum of ancient monarchs and latest, debatable additions. That hill is also where the dragon of legend lives, supposedly still feasting on virgin girls. In fact, he lost a bit of weight, since that kind of a diet is hardly sustainable nowadays. Kraków was lucky; it remained untouched by the bombardments, the Old Town (Stare Miasto) and the Main Market Square (Rynek Główny) are the same as they were during medieval times. St. Mary’s Church, overlooking the square, is a textbook example of Polish gothic architecture with Wit Stwosz’s iconic wooden altar and a trumpeter playing the Hejnał at noon every single day from his tower. That tradition began during the Mongol invasions back in the 13th century.

Carriage with horses to the background of the Saint Mary's Basilica and City Hall on the central market square Rynek Główny in Kraków

Rynek Główny: the main market square of Kraków was built in 1257 and ranks amongst the largest and without doubt most beautiful squares in Europe; it's the central hub of historical, cultural and touristical life in Kraków

Kazimierz lies just outside of the old town. It used to be a separate city populated by Jews, which eventually became a part of Kraków itself. Now it’s a living and breathing museum of Jewish culture, but also the hipster central with bars and restaurants around every corner. Back in 1993, for his movie Schindler's List Stephen Spielberg needed a venue to depict the Jewish ghetto of Podgorze in Kraków where the factory of Oskar Schindler was located. Spielberg picked Kazimiers because unlike the Podgorze area it had not been affected since the 40’s. Oskar Schindler has been praised and became world famous for saving almost 1100 Jews from working in a Nazi labour camp by employing them in his factory. Since 2003 Schindler’s Factory district has turned into a popular museum.

Without any doubts the most popular day-trip with Kraków visitors is a visit to Auschwitz-Birkenau, which was the largest of Nazi Germany’s concentration camps, located around 60 kilometres from Kraków. The total number of the people killed in the camp is estimated at the unbelievable number 1.1 million. Be prepared that visiting the huge sites of Auschwitz and Auschwitz 2 (Birkenau) will probably be one of the most impressive and at the same time most depressive experiences you will have in your entire life. There has been created a whole industry around it and witnessing the inevitable side effects of mass-tourism can you make feel sad and awkward as well. At least that happened to me when being there. Most visitors behave respectfully but there are also anecdotes about people making smiley selfies to the backdrop of the “Arbeit mach Frei” gate or making funny poses on the railways, which transported 100,000s of people straight to mass termination.

Wawel Castle complex at the left bank of the Vistula River in Kraków

Wawel Castle: the architectural ensemble on the left bank of the Vistula (Wisła) River in Kraków includes a royal castle, a cathedral and a system of castle fortifications

Another impressive but more cheerful excursion is a visit to the salt mine in Wieliczk, one of the oldest salt mines in the world located around 14 kilometres southeast of Kraków. Over 1 million people per year descend 135 meters deep and wander through a labyrinth of corridors and stairways. The salt lakes, chambers, chapels and statutes, all carved out of white salt since the medieval ages will bring you in awe. It is a unique and almost unreal environment and due to its specific and healthy climate there is even a sanatorium for the treatment of chronic allergic diseases.

You are highly recommend to not to book your excursions to Auschwitz-Birkenau or the Wieliczk salt mine with the fist person or agency that will make you an offer, especially out on the street. Some local travel agencies and independent guides will ask outrageous prices. You could already save a lot of money when you would book online entrance tickets directly on the official sites and/or travel by local public transport when possible. These tourist attractions in Kraków’s neighbourhood, including some based on immensely sad times in history, in combination with the indisputable beauty of the preserved Old Town, have made Kraków of what it is today: one of the most popular travel destinations in Central Europe. Kraków has also become a main bachelor weekend destination of choice; booze is cheap and bars are plenty, girls are stunning and eager to chat with foreigners.

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