Warsaw, the capital of a country that just can’t give anything up, and constantly blames everything on the past. It’s like a city full of entitled millennials. Personally, as someone born and raised in Warsaw, I believe that the capital should have remained in Kraków (Cracow). But it’s not for me to decide and tourists seem to love this city, so it’s probably a matter of perspective. Truth be told, there isn’t much to see in Warsaw, everyone blames the wars but in my humble opinion- it’s just an unwelcoming and obnoxious city. Everything there is to see in the capital can be seen in one day. Actually, there’s not much to see at all, apart from the Old Town, Wilanów Palace, and the Warsaw Uprising Museum (for a healthy dose of that famous, polish misery). Old Town Square, Old Town Royal Palace, Old Town rip off restaurants feeding overpriced pierogis to tourists: everything is “Old Town” because Warsaw doesn’t have anything else to offer. Apart from the nightlife and women, those two are probably the only reasons why people come back to this god-forsaken city.
The Royal Castle is a symbol of modern Warsaw; built at the beginning of the 17th century, it was completely destroyed during the Second World War and rebuilt according to old drawings and photographs
All right, let’s settle down a bit. I suppose I should be a bit more of a welcoming host. Let me walk you through the basics; things the locals go for when visited by distant cousins from the countryside. Let’s cover two variants: one with kids and one only with adults. They’re basically the same but I’d take the kids to the Zoo first to tire them out, so they don’t have the endurance to walk further into the day. The Zoo is great, especially during summer when it’s warm outside; there is also a bit of history behind it. The owners used to smuggle Jews out of the nearby ghetto and hide them in the basement of their onsite villa. A remarkable story, you can learn more about it from The Zookeeper’s Wife, a movie with redhead beauty Jessica Chastain. Check it out on Netflix: it’s pretty good. Next stop: Old Town! I’d just walk there from the Zoo; it’s maybe a half an hour walk, taking the water tram across the Vistula (Wisła in Polish) river is a good alternative during summer. Once there I’d go check the Royal Castle but only from the outside, the inside takes hours to explore, and frankly, it’s nothing exciting. Chill around the medieval Old Town Square, take the mandatory photo next to the mermaid statue, a symbol of Warsaw and depending on the time of the day have a meal at U Fukiera Restaurant. It is a bit pricey but the food is great and the old basement-like interior does leave an impression.
Sufficiently fed and rested, you’re ready to continue down the Royal Route, it used to connect the Royal Castle with the Wilanów Palace. There are amazing churches left and right, including the Holy Cross Church that contains Chopin’s actual heart, pickled in a jar, encased in a wall. From there you can walk straight on to Łazienki Park, also known as Royal Baths Park. You could also turn left and walk down Tamka Street and visit the interactive Chopin Museum, or the Kopernik Science Centre. That pretty much covers the area, the controversial Palace of Science and Culture is to the right of the Royal Route, you should be able to see it clearly. I’d pass on that one and visit the Warsaw Uprising Museum instead. I have my opinion about the Uprising and I’m not a huge fan of museums altogether but that one is a must-see.
Swietokrzyski bridge: the first cable-stayed bridge in Warsaw, built in 2000, replaced the old wooden bridge over the Vistula or Wisła River, Poland's longest river
Polish people party long and hard, maybe a bit too hard, if I do say so myself. How do we go about our weekends? We usually start on Fridays, gather up, do a bit of a pre-game and head out to town. Most often we go to the recently rebuilt Vistula Boulevards, it’s one of few spots in Warsaw where you can legally drink outside of bars and pubs. Speaking of which, there are dozens of those along the Vistula: dance clubs, jazz bars, food trucks, whatever you want. The boulevards are so popular that some spots downtown close up for the season and move their businesses there. Tourists usually hang around clubs on Mazowiecka street and those around Marszałkowska are also very popular. If you’re in a mood for an adventure, a dash of risk, you could check out the Praga district out. It’s on the opposite side of the river; the part of town where people don’t really go to after dark. Some of the buildings still have bullet holes from the time of war. But it’s being reintroduced to a new life and becoming a bit of a hipster area with an alternative club scene. They’re also reopening the old Koneser Vodka factory, building lofts, and art galleries and stuff like that. I have a good feeling about it.
Prague is a truly magical city. It is not for nothing that it is called the Golden City (Zlaté Město in Czech). Praha – as the Czech say – is especially enchanting in the mornings when the milky fog envelops it like a white blanket and tourists are yet to wake up and swarm the streets. There is the Prague of Kafka and Havel with rebellious and provocative art and a passion for puppets, there is the traditional Prague with an overwhelming number of medieval and other historical landmarks like the castle, there is the Jewish Prague with its ghetto, beautiful synagogues and cemetery, and last but not least there is the never sleeping modern Prague offering a vibrant nightlife with an overwhelming number of cosy beer cafes, famous jazz clubs and sleek nightclubs. Even if you are the off-the-beaten-path type of guy you should see at least a few of the famous sights and landmarks.
For a visit of the Prague Castle district (Hradcany) you should plan at least half a day if not more since the area is pretty huge and is considered to be the largest castle complex of the world. For centuries the castle was the seat of Czech rulers and nowadays it functions as the official residence of the republic’s president. The magnificent castle with its numerous palaces, chapels and royal gardens make the perfect spot for a romantic walk. Entry to the grounds of the castle are free but in order to access other interesting sites such as the St Vitus cathedral, Basillica of St George and Golden Lane you should use a combined entry ticket. The gothic St Vitus Cathedral is a splendid landmark of Prague that can be seen practically from every location in the city. It houses some real gems such as the tomb of St John of Nepomunk and the Chapel of St Wenceslas. It’s also the place where you can admire the world-famous stained glass in art nouveau style designed by Alphonse Mucha.
Charles Bridge in Prague: probably the most photographed monument of Prague and most famous bridge in Europe
Nearby you will also find the picturesque Golden Lane with its bright-coloured cottages. According to the legends this was the place where local alchemists had to find the solution to turn ordinary materials into gold. The Czech-Jewish writer Franz Kafka, famous for portraying the ridiculous bureaucracy in public administration, lived for 2 years in this tiny atmospheric street. Now the street is filled to the brim with souvenir shop selling Prague’s puppets and other stuff. From Hradčany you could take a stroll to the Lesser Quarter; the Malá Strana with its many Baroque style houses where you could have a relaxing meal or coffee in one of its numerous café’s. The non-vegetarians amongst us can try a local specialty such as pork knuckle, a large hunk of pork knee that goes under the name Koleno or a homemade goulash with bread dumplings on the side. When in Malá Strana seize also the opportunity to see the Infant Jesus of Prague: a statue in a shrine depicting of Jesus Christ as an infant, which is believed to have miraculous powers and is visited each day by hundreds of religious worshippers.
After this it has become time to explore to the Old Town around the main square at the other side of the Vltava River. The most enjoyable way to arrive there is to stroll along the Charles Bridge, of the most iconic bridges in the world connecting Prague Castle and Old Town Prague. The construction of the bridge was commissioned by Charles IV and was finalized in 1390. The stunning statutes of saints at both sides were added in the 17th century and only two centuries later the bridge got its current name. The uncanny sturdiness of the bridge is supposed to be caused by eggs mixed in the mortar. The Charles Bridge is incredible crowded, no matter the season and no matter the time of the day. I still remember that during my first visit to Prague I wanted to catch the magic of this bridge on photo, but without all these herds of people. Well: maybe only photos with my gorgeous girlfriend of these days posing. We decided to take a very early morning tram to visit the bridge for a nice photo shoot. And when I say early, I mean very early: something between 4.00 and 5.00 am. But it turned out to be a mission impossible. Even on that time of the day there were already some flocks of Asians with the inevitable umbrella (luckily enough there were at least no selfie-sticks those days). Also the big tummy of some German tourist did its best to ruin the arty pictures I had in mind. And on top of it there was a Czech film crew working on the middle of the bridge, I do not remember if that was maybe for some European x-star movie since Prague has the reputation of being a hub for the European porn industry. Anyway after a few lame attempts we decided to give up on the photo shoot mission and go for breakfast and coffee.
From the bridge you can continue to the Old Town Square: an amazing ensemble of Baroque and Art Nouveau buildings painted in cheerful colours. At the south-face of the Town Hall you will see the usual big bunch of excited tourists with phones and camera’s in standby mode eagerly waiting the moment that the world-famous Astronomical Clock strikes the hour. It is the oldest still working oldest astronomical clock in the world. At the hour the funny spectacle starts: a little skeleton rings his golden bell, the 12 apostles peep at the windows, followed by the crowing of little golden rooster. The Wenceslas Square with its statue of King Wenceslas in front of the National Museum in the very heart of the New Town of Prague is on walking distance. In this lively area of Prague’s New Town you can find some renowned beer pubs and breweries, frequented by beer-lovers from all over the world.
When in Prague be sure to taste also some of the prominent Jewish flavours the city still has to offer. The old Jewish Ghetto, aka Josefov, is tucked in between the Old Town and the Vltava River, north of the Old Town Square. In the 13th century the local Jews were instructed to leave their homes and settle in this area and soon Jews in exiled from other countries moved in too. The area is home to many old synagogues, amongst some which function now as museum and memorial to the Holocaust victims. The Spanish Synagogue with its detailed interiors and gold leaf is an architectural masterpiece detailed interior. The Old Jewish Cemetery has turned into a dazzling collection of tombstones placed over each other. There was a huge lack of space and according to Jewish traditions remains could not be moved; so the only way was up
Dancing House or Fred and Ginger: nicknames given to the eye-catching Nationale-Nederlanden building in Prague designed in deconstructionist style by Vlado Milunić and Frank O. Gehry
After all these historical and traditional landmarks you might be in the mood for watching some more modern stuff, rebellious, funny pieces of art; art with a wink so to say. You have come to the right place as well since it will also remain the city of timeless rebels such as Kafka and Havel. You can visit the John Lennon wall, covered with graffiti and lyrics from Beatles’ songs. It was already erected in 1980 and the drawings and texts are still changing. You can also take a selfie with the two peeing statues in front of the Kafka Museum, which are meant to be a satirical comment to local politicians. Or head over to the Stare Mesto area to watch the Simund Freud sculpture hanging over the cobbled street. The seven foot tall sculpture of the worlds most famous psycho-analyst led to several emergency calls in the past by people who probably forgot to wear their glasses and interpreted it has a suicide attempt of a real human.
As some antidote to all the beauty of this city you can also have a glimpse of the Zizkov Tower, it is a great demonstration of how the future would look like according to the communists in 1960 and has been voted the second ugliest building in the world. At last some warnings: watch out for pickpockets, they’re a massive pain in the ass, especially around popular tourist areas in Prague. And although the situation has slightly improved: the taxi drivers are notorious for scamming people in the Czech Republic, beware and stick to corporations rather than independent taxis.
St. Petersburg is the forward thinking “second capital” of Russia. Its citizens think of themselves as Europeans and reach out to the world, instead of secluding themselves and shaking their fists at it like their inland comrades. This city has been bullied by the 20th century and received treatment that it largely did not deserve. St. Petersburg, tenderly called “Piter” by its inhabitants, has been bombed, starved, occupied, and underwent all sorts of torture but none of it broke its spirit. Then the mafia got its paws on it, due to neglect from the side of the Soviet government. Fortunately, the 90s heralded a new era for this extraordinary metropolis. It was free to get back on its feet and regain something that it might’ve lost along the way.
My all-time favourite Russian author Fyodor Dostoyevsky adequately described St. Petersburg as the most abstract and intentional city on the entire globe. Commonly known as the “Venice of the North” St. Petersburg started out as a swampland, where Tsar Peter the Great saw great potential and despite all the negativity decided to build a visionary city that could leave Moscow far behind and become the new Russian capital. Venice of the North isn’t just a nickname, the Hermitage (Winter Palace of the tsars) and other palaces were designed by Italians, numerous canals and neoclassical architecture make it hard to distinguish between these two cities. Well, maybe apart from the weather and gondolas since St. Petersburg is lacking in both of those departments. It has always been a city of revolutionists; its inhabitants incited both the Russian revolution and pushed for democracy when times changed. Due to its Northern geographical location the sun does not really go down in the end of June. That is the period of White Nights (Beliye Nochi) when the nights are very short and stay bright. It creates a unique vibrant atmosphere and it is like the city and its people come to live after waking up from a long winter sleep. The high culture scene is prevalent in St. Petersburg. The Museum of Non-Conformist Art is holding a multitude of wacky, yet always interesting art, while the Mariinsky Theatre offers the best ballet performances in the world. In addition the city hosts uncountable bars, posh night clubs and a great food scene.
Trinity Cathedral in St. Petersburg is an architectural monument of late classicism; here the writer Fyodor Dostoevsky married Anna Snitkina in 1867
What would I start with? I would sink into the city metro like a true spelunker, it’s similar to the one in Moscow, as in each station is a work of art, a gallery of sorts. It’s also the deepest complex of its kind in the world, even deeper than the mines of Moria! They had to go deep enough to pass all the swamp the city is set on. Keep in mind that St. Petersburg is huge; it’s not a very walkable city. I would ride those grim tunnels to one of the many museums this city has to offer. In addition to the almost obligatory Hermitage tour many tourists pay also visit to the Kunstkamera, aka the Peter the Great Museum of Anthropology and Ethnography. The Kunstkamera was originally built as a library and was the first Russian museum with anatomical theatre and an observatory. Nowadays it houses the collections of the Museum of Anthropology and Ethnography. Peter the Great exhibited in his time everything, including the rarities collection of Frederik Ruysch, who he bought after his second visit to Holland. Peter the Great attracted visitors with free vodka to come inside the museum and see this special collection. The remains of his rarity cabinet can still be viewed, including a three-hundred-year-old foetus and the consecrated head of a brother of a mistress of the Tsar. Many visitors also come to see the heart and skeleton of Peter the Great's personal servant Bourgeois, a 2,27-meter-long giant.
The Hermitage, a former winter palace of the Russian royalty is now the largest museum in the country, with one of the most impressive art collections in the world. Katherine the Great acquired most of the stuff in bulk. It is also an iconic site where the October Revolution began in 1917 when a legendary warship Aurora fired a blank, signalling the Bolsheviks to begin the assault on the Palace, which thankfully ended without any bloodshed. You can easily spend days in the many halls that are located in several locations: so plan your time carefully. The largest part of the museum complex is located at the Palace Square and includes 365 halls in the Winter Palace, the small, the old and the new Hermitage. Most visitors visit only the Winter Palace where you will find the most famous collection. There you can find stunning European art pieces including the work of many famous Italian, Spanish and Dutch masters, Greek and Roman antiquities and richly decorated rooms from the time of the Tsars. To avoid the long queues at the entrance you can consider ordering your tickets online, although they come at a higher price than when you would buy them at the desk office.
If you did not have enough of museums you can also visit the Russian State Museum, the largest museum of Russian art in St. Petersburg. It also features a rich collection of foreign painters and other artists and can be a good alternative to the Hermitage when you would find it too big or too busy. The original collection was part of the Hermitage collection, the Alexander Palace and the Academy of the Arts of Saint Petersburg. After the Russian Revolution in 1917, many art collections of wealthy individuals were also confiscated and allocated to this museum. A large collection of icons from the eleventh century and later is one of the exhibits of the museum. But you will also find many other religious arts, arts and crafts, jewellery and folk art, sculptures and paintings by Ivan Aivazovski, Ilja Repin, Karl Brjoellov, Marc Chagall, Wassily Kandinsky and Kasimir Malevich.
The Peterhof Palace and its garden were commissioned by Peter the Great. The huge palace and garden complex at the Gulf of Finland can be easily reached by fast-speed boats (hydofoils), departing from St. Petersburg centre. Peterhof, often referred too as the Russian Versailles is a wet-dream of any wannabe teenage princess. Jokes aside, it is very impressive; the gardens are stunning and masterfully maintained, while the interiors are breath taking. Everything inside is golden. Russian people are a victim of the stereotype that they’re daub, over-the-top colourful and love to show off. But I think it’s that former splendour and glory in their genes. It also explains why Russians and Italians can get along with each other so well. They both have more in common as one would expect, such as a taste for expensive and flashy things and a deep-rooted urge to "dress to impress".
Peterhof, located 40 km from St. Petersburg, is a royal suburban residence founded by Peter the Great in honor of the victory in the Northern War; the palace and park complex is also called "the Kingdom of Fountains" or "Versailles of the North"
If you would have time for another day trip outside the city I would highly recommend Tsarskoje Selo (Tsars Village). It is the former residence of the imperial Russian family 24 kilometres south of St. Petersburg and now part of the city of Pushkin. Sights include the Pushkin Museum, the Alexander Palace and especially the former summer residence of the Russian Tsars, the Catharina Palace, a baroque creation of Bartolomeo Rastrelli. The Catharina palace was built as a summer residence for the Russian Tsarina Catharina the Great. During World War II all buildings were deliberately destroyed by German soldiers when they retired after the unsuccessful siege of Leningrad. Luckily prior to the demolition most of the valuable equipment was already put in safety, except for the world-famous Amber Room, The Amber Room, a chamber decorated in amber panels backed with gold leaf and mirrors, was evacuated by the Nazis and has since disappeared. After the war, the palace was gradually rebuilt and the famous room was reconstructed. The Alexander Palace was built by Catharina the Great for her grandson Alexander I. The last Tsar Nicolas II and his wife Alexandra were forced to stay here from 1904 to 1917 after the Romanovs have been arrested. Several rooms, including the Nicolas II study room, a drawing room and a reception area, have been restored and can be visited. The palace gives a good and even moving impression of how simple and sober the last Tsar family lived the last days of their lives. At the end they were transported to Yekaterinburg, where they would be brutally murdered by the Bolsheviks in the night of 16–17 July 1918 and 300 years of Romanov power came to an end.
Most of the architectural gems, upscale shops, restaurants, and nightlife are located on the Nevsky Prospect, Saint Petersburg’s main street. "There is nothing finer than the Nevsky Prospect, at least in St. Petersburg." begins Nikolay Gogol his hymn on Russia's most famous boulevard and Petersburg's lifeline that never sleeps. If you complete it completely from the Alexander Nevsky monastery in the east to the Admiralty on the Neva River in the west you will have walked close to 5 kilometres. On either sides of the promenade you will find many of Petersburg's attractions such as the Kazan Cathedral, the beautiful Art Nouveau building Dom Knigi with Russia's most famous bookstore and the luxurious Gostiny Dvor, one of the world's first indoor shopping malls. Also give yourself time to sit down on a terrace and enjoy the outdoor theatre with the homeless and street artists, the city’s nouveau who park their expensive cars pontifically on the sidewalk and the city's most beautiful women who do their catwalk here.
Another must-see near Nevsky is the colourful church Spas Na Krovi (or simply Spas). It was built at the place where Tsar Alexander II was killed in 1881. His successor, Alexander III, wrote a contest for designing an appropriate memorial. The winning design was from Alfred Parland and Ignati Malisev, and is highly inspired by the famous Basilius Cathedral of the Red Square in Moscow. Due to its onion domes, the church is a typical exponent of the oriental inspired orthodox architecture. Due to its exotic appearance and lush decoration, it is one of St. Petersburg's most striking buildings, and it strongly contrasts with the more European neoclassical and baroque architecture in the area. It is wonderful to walk around the church at the Griboyedov canal but be sure to take a look inside as well to admire the colourful mosaics.
I have long track record when it comes to exploring local culinary scenes and I can assure that restaurants in St. Petersburg will blow your mind. There is a huge variety and I would even go that far by saying that you have even more choice than in an average big city in Europe. One of the pleasant things of visiting cities Russia and Ukraine is that you are actually stumbling over the Caucasian, especially Georgian restaurants. And a visit to St. Petersburg is not really complete if you have not tried this delicious cuisine, which is unfortunately rather underrepresented in most European cities. Whenever I am in Moscow, Kiev or St. Petersburg I cannot wait to visit a Georgian restaurant and stuff myself with khachapuri: bread filled with baked egg, cheese and butter, lots of butter. The cuisines of other former Soviet republics such as Armenia, Azerbaidzjan and Uzbekistan which are also incredible rich in fresh ingredients and spices are also well represented in St. Petersbug. Some restaurants worth visiting in that respect are Baklazan (Uzbeki), Erivan (Armenian), ChaCha (Georgian) and Tefsi (Georgian).
And let’s not forget about the local Russian kitchen itself, which is heavily underestimated to my opinion. To have a good impression of what the national cuisine has to offer you should visit the Idiot. This restaurant named after Dostoevsky's famous book is located on Moika River Embankment 82, between the St. Isaac's Cathedral and the Yusupov Palace. Idiot is an evergreen and always packed with tourists, expats and locals. Many guests stay for hours to play a game of chess or backgammon and it is a good place for both business and family celebrations. The four rooms form a colourful mix of books, antiques, oil paintings and bric-a-brac stuff. In order to activate the appetite, each guest gets a shot of vodka as a welcome drink. ikra (caviar), blini (Russian pancakes), pelmeni (Russian ravioli), borsjt (Ukrainian beet soup): basically all classics of Russian cuisine are there. Make sure you leave some space for the delicious deserts of the house. Idiot has plenty of vegetarian meals and St. Petersburg doesn’t lack in the vegetarian segment anyway. My favourite is Botanica, the oldest vegetarian-dining cafe in town. Many recipes have an Indian touch. But there are also great veggie dishes from the Russian, Italian and Japanese cuisine. Salads, snacks, hot main meals and desserts: only natural and organic ingredients and the microwave has been declared taboo. There is also a varied offer of children's meals and on weekends there are vegetarian cooking classes. Botanica is on Pestelya street 7 within walking distance of Nevsky prospect and near the famous Summer Gardens.
At first sight Russia often comes off as a very cold and stern country; the weather, language, even the comedic accent that actors use in movies adds to this image. When I was a kid I thought everyone there walks around in a military uniform while listening to Alexandrov Choir cassettes on their Walkman. I couldn’t have been further from the truth…for the most part. Russia and Moscow, in particular, are the best example of the “old meets new” vibe. You can go see the famous Nutcracker, have a dinner at posh, modern fusion restaurants, visit an art gallery and go for a few drinks at a bohemian club. And all this you can do within walking distance from the Kremlin. Moscow is a city of literature, progress, and some might even add oppression, violence, and conquest. The undeniable fact is that Moscow is a monument celebrating all those who have contributed to the Soviet legacy. The city is remarkably clean, streets are spotless and advertising is limited. You won’t be bothered by billboards around every corner, which is a bit refreshing. I’m starting to think that Steven Seagal and Gerard Depardieu weren’t insane when they took the Russian citizenship offer.
This former glory and pathos are deeply rooted in Moscow, and I mean literally rooted; Moscow Metro is one of the most impressive networks of that kind in the world. You will encounter still those old-school Soviet trains. Back in the good old days they were supplied to every single metro in central Europe. We used to call them Sergey’s when I was in high school. Grab a travel pass while you’re there, it’s like €5 for 3 days. The 222 stations are more like underground art galleries or palaces. It’s as if they swept all the things they’re really proud of under the rug; many things Russian can’t or shouldn’t flaunt in the open. Take Mayakovskaya station, for example, it’s textbook Stalinist architecture, and actually where he lived during the World War 2. Elektrozavodskaya is also stunning with different shades of marble and sculptures of working-class men and hammer + sickle symbols. Oh, and they have free Wi-Fi in all means of public transport.
Russians are very proud of their contribution to space exploration. Yuri Gagarin was the first man in space and they like to remind the world of that fact every chance they get. Monument to the Conquerors of Space and the museum at its base are some of those things you just have to see. The monument is enormous, over 100m tall and made almost entirely out of titanium. The museum is filled with relics such as old space suits, rocket and capsule prototypes, various models and wax figures of cosmonauts. Interesting stuff, whether you believe in all that space travel mumbo-jumbo or not. I am on the fence when it comes to that, just sorry about all those dogs they sent out there. The Museum of Soviet Arcade Machines (https://www.15kop.ru/) at Ulitsa Kuznetskiy Most, 12 is another spot for true geeks. It has over 40 working machines and the collection is still growing. Kids nowadays don’t appreciate those wondrous times of simple entertainment. I actually cannot blame them, spoilt as they are nowadays with hyper realistic games and movies. They probably see it as not more than a junkyard, but back in the days it was really something.
The Kremlin: Russia's iconic powerhouse: a red brick fortress in the center of Moscow housing the residence of the President of the Russian Federation and various government buildings, as well as a gigantic museum complex
The Red Square is the thing they show by default on TV when talking about Moscow; it’s the focal point of the capital. If anyone ever had the balls to bomb Russia, this would be the spot to drop them. The square is packed with Russia’s most famous monuments. The Kremlin, royal citadel and residence of the current Russian president needs no further introduction. Next to it is the Mausoleum of Lenin, which contains Comrade Lenin’s mummified remains. Another famous and colourful eye-catcher on the Red Square is the St. Basil's Cathedral, which is very “unique” to say the least, in my opinion, reminiscent of makeup smears after a hard night of drinking. Legend says that Ivan the Terrible gauged the architects' eyes so he couldn’t build anything as “beautiful” ever again. Ivan the Terrible doesn’t sound like a master of sarcasm so I suppose he genuinely loved this building, each to their own I suppose. Out of all these iconic buildings I find GUM to be the most interesting. The former Soviet State Department Store is now one of the largest shopping malls in Moscow and actually looks a bit like it was ripped off of the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II in Milan. This is the place where the rich and the beautiful of Moscow pay exorbitant amounts for exclusive food and the latest trends in fashion and design. It is truly fascinating and ironic to have a temple to capitalism on such a venue. Life in Russia is full of paradoxes and absurdist situations and GUM is an evident demonstration of that.
Founded in the 18th century by Catherine II, the Bolshoi Theater in Moscow became a symbol of Russia's rich culture and home to the world's oldest and most renowned ballet and opera companies
You cannot leave Moscow without having had your fair share of the local nightlife, which is pretty overwhelming. The night clubs in Moscow can easily compete with the most exquisite clubs in New York, LA, London and Paris. It’s truly fascinating to see the bold and the beautiful of Moscow in their natural habitat, where they easily spend thousands of euros during one single night. Usually people go in a company and book a table in advance. The will order snacks, chilled champagne, cocktails and of course hookah. At some stage they will be completely full but that will not prevent them from ordering new rounds of drinks and foods. The more stuff you have on your table and the more beautiful your female company the more important you are. It is as simple as that. Showing off is in the gens of Russians and especially the Muscovites. Moscow’s most legendary club is Night Flight, which is on Moscow’s main street Tyersakaya, just a few steps away from the Red Square. It’s already a challenge to pass the bouncers due to the strict face control and entrance policy. But once you are in, the reward will be high. Be prepared to take part in an amazing scene of wealthy tourists, expats, international businessmen, Russian oligarchs, politicians, film stars and photo models partying all night long. Some other night clubs which are popular with foreigners are Gipsy, Icon, Jagger Bar, Valenok and Miks. Bear in mind that the scene can change very quickly; clubs come and go. So check out the Moscow Times or other local city nightlife guides to learn about the new hot spots in town.
Lviv (in Russian: Lvov) takes its name from Leo (Lev) I of Galicia. Unlike most large cities in this part of Europe, the whole Western part of Ukraine didn’t get annexed by the USSR until 1939, which allowed them to secure most of their heritage. People in West Ukraine are very proud of their history, obsessing over Cossacks and looking down upon anyone that even utters a word in Russian. The Russian speaking people are considered to be betrayers after the Russian annexation of Crimea. And the people in the Eastern part of Ukraine such as the Donbass area accuse people in Lviv and the rest of Western Ukraine of heating up the nationalistic sentiments. Labels as “fascists”, “communists” and even “Nazis” have become fashionable again and a reasonable debate based on real facts and valid arguments seems to be out of the question. Ukraine means borderland and that says a lot if not all. Ukraine is on the divide of many things. The gap between the Eastern and Western part, be it in culture, language and mentality, has become too deep. As is the case with most things in life: nothing is black or white and there are no simple solutions to complex issues. But political powers and some media on both sides like to simplify matters and by doing so they are playing with fire. Hopefully this great country will recover and leave the troubled times behind somehow.
The opera house in Lviv, officially named Solomiya Krushelnytska Lviv State Academic Theatre of Opera and Ballet, has an extraordinary and beautiful location above the Poltva River
If you have never visited this country you should put it on top of your travel-bucket list. Every one who has visited Ukraine will admit that the hospitality is overwhelming and that the women are breathtakingly beautiful. That’s a matter of fact. So what are you waiting for? Lviv belongs together with Odessa and Kiev (Kyiv) definitely to the most beautiful and interesting cities you can visit in Ukraine.TheUNESCO decided that Lviv’s Old Town is worthy of being included in the World’s Heritage list with its peculiar mix of architectures ranging from Renaissance to Gothic. The old centre looks like Hogwarts with its gargoyles, stone stairs and cobblestone. Not many people consider this part of Europe a tourist destination and that’s a good thing; you can visit while it’s not swarmed by tourists, Ukrainians are friendly people and it’s getting easier to communicate in English in restaurants and even on the streets.
As a matter of fact, Lviv is much more Central European. Compared to all the orthodox churches in Kiev, it feels more like Prague or Krakow. The Polish still claim that they built Lwów (as the name goes in Polish) and that it’s a Polish city. But let’s not forget that Poland is a nation that literally has beef with half of the world, for the dumbest reasons. There has been an influx of Ukrainian immigrants in Poland. They are universally hated because “their Polish isn’t on point and they’re taking our jobs”; classic redneck rhetoric to my opinion. Lviv is a city of churches: the Church of the Transfiguration, the Jesuit Church (Church of the Most Holy Apostles Peter and Paul) and many others. Keep in mind that summer is the wedding season and all the places of worship will be crowded. It can be a bit awkward; checking out a church during such a ceremony. Visit the Armenian Cathedral (the Armenian Cathedral of the Assumption of Mary), build in 14th century and see how the Armenian’s history is closely tied to Ukraine. You can scout all the sights from a vista on top of the city hall. It’s a tough climb up a funny-smelling, claustrophobic staircase but the view is worth the effort. Lviv is also known as the city of books, a host to various expos. You can buy books at flea markets all over town, most cafes and restaurants have a bookshelf with titles covering all sorts of topics.
The Church of Saints Olha and Elizabeth, located between the railway station and the old Town of Lviv, was originally built as the Roman Catholic Church of St. Elizabeth but serves today as the Greek Catholic Church
As usual, the best spots are outside of the beaten path. Unconventional tourist favourites like the Coffee Manufacture at the Old Town square, or the Chocolate Manufacture (https://www.chocolate.lviv.ua/) are my favourites. They’re pretty big on coffee and chocolate in Ukraine, which was a surprise for me in first instance. Lviv has two citadel buildings, both hidden in a forests. They are complete opposite of each other. One is abandoned, crumbling and possibly hunted, while the other got renovated and is now a 5* hotel. No sightseeing tour is complete without staples such as the Lychakiv Cemetery, one of the most picturesque in Eastern Europe. There is also an interesting range of museums in Lviv such as the National Museum, Pharmacy Museum, History Museum; take your pick. Let’s not forget about the important stuff, Lviv is a university city, with lots of students and with those comes party culture and nightlife. Craft beers are immensely popular, Pravda Beer Theatre (https://www.pravda.beer/) located at the Old Town Square was opened recently and is quickly becoming a staple on the nightlife map of Lviv. Dublin Pub, Whiskey Bar and many more are located around the same area. I almost forgot; if you’re into folk music from these parts you should definitely give Dakhbrakha a shot. I’m in love with that band.
The first time I learned about Odessa was while listening to Alosza Awdiejew’s (Aleksy Awdiejew in Russian) songs. I love that guy: he’s the kind of this old school bard, singing about vodka, women and various crimes he and his friends might or might not have committed. It’s gangsta rap straight out of the 1980s Soviet port town. Suffice to say, Odessa is a kind of place you just don’t go to unless it’s summer. That's why I was so surprised to discover how much rich history and charm this city has. Mark Twain supposedly felt right at home the moment he came ashore from a long distance cruise and climbed the iconic Potemkin Stairs, in front of him a vibrant port town, the Black Sea behind him. The town that Twain was so enchanted by was discovered by Richelieu, a French mercenary, governed by Russian Empresses’ one-eyed lover. It was built by exiled French architects and populated mostly by Jews, who sadly, were slaughtered by Romanian Nazis a few months after Twain’s vacation. Odessa has always been a city that underwent numerous trials. Many were interesting and some were even gory, but all were the kind that brought this ridiculously diverse community together.
The Odessa National Academic Theatre of Opera and Ballet is the city's oldest theatre of Odessa and together with the Potemkin Stairs the most famous landmarks of Odessa, the theatre's stunning rococo auditorium has unique acoustics due to its horseshoe shape
Modern Odessa is a stunning resort combined with a vibrant city life, I’d say it’s kind of a Ukrainian Miami, minus the all-year-round climate. So it’s a bit dead here during the off-season. But, oh boy, you are in for a treat if you visit it during the summer. If you’re thinking it’s just another post-communist Golden Sands copy, then you’re obviously wrong. Odessa is more like the French Riviera or Ibiza; modern and multi-cultural. Some still call it a “sunny place for shady people”. But who cares. It isn’t one of those usual medieval cities with castles and squares, or the usual Roman ruins. Odessa is pure entertainment; restaurants, clubs and beaches. And beach bars with swimming pools; a thing which I will never understand. The only noteworthy landmarks are the Potemkin Stairs and the still functional Odessa Opera and Ballet Theatre. The two hundred years old building is beautiful, but doesn’t receive many visitors during the summer season. Understandably, people would rather spend their days on the beach. It reminds me of La Scala in Milan.
Most of the good stuff is situated around the resort area Arkadia. It’s one huge boardwalk and concentrated dose of the best clubs and beaches in Odessa. Beach clubs like the renowned Ibiza (https://ibiza.ua/) and Bono (https://bono-beach.com.ua/) are said to be the top spots; not only in Odessa but in entire Ukraine. Honestly, I don’t think calling those two a club does them justice. They are more like mini-resorts on their own. You enter from the boardwalk, as if into another dimension with their own dance floor, restaurant, pools, even a closed off beach. That’s the thing; club beaches are top notch, exclusive, high-end stuff, while the public ones are subpar. To say the least. There’s also the Aqua Park with slides and some spa services. It’s a great place to start your morning after a night of heavy partying around the Arkadia district.
Many visitors of Odessa book a day-trip to visit the Akkerman Fortress, an Ottoman waterfront fortresss from the 13th-14th centuries in Bilhorod-Dnistrovskyi in the Odessa region
Everything from food and lodging to drinks is pretty cheap. After all, it’s Ukraine and the currency exchange services are surprisingly fair. Vulytsia Derybasivska (Ulitsa Deribasovskaya in Russian) is where you hang out when it’s raining, or during any season other than summer. It’s also called De Ribas Street, named after its builder and first mayor José de Ribas. It supposedly one of the oldest and longest streets in Odessa, where locals and the more mature audiences go to party. As for the food and restaurants, you’ll find a glorious mix of everything. Kebabs and your usual fast-food joints, seafood, oyster bars, or something unique like Israeli dishes at Dizyngoff restaurant. If you want to try some local, cheap and delicious Ukrainian meals then Grechka is one of those hidden gems that the locals would rather keep for themselves.
Kiev (or Kyiv in Ukrainian language) is an unbelievable and slightly overwhelming city. Kiev is filled to the brim with beautiful colourful orthodox churches such as the St. Sophia’s Cathedral, the St. Andrew's Church, the St. Volodymyr's Cathedral and the St. Michaels Golden Domed Cathedral. All these holy places that have significant importance in the Orthodox Church are tourist staples that highly contrast with the monumental Stalinist architecture. And omnipresent nowadays is modern capitalism that shoves advertisements down your throat at every step. Even your girlfriends' babushka will probably try to sell you something. But it’s not all that bad, this flow of money allowed Kiev to develop into a vibrant, European capital that could easily rival the western ones in terms of culture, art, cuisine and most importantly: nightlife. Strolling along Kiev’s city landmarks and dancing the night away makes hungry. When it comes to food you should definitely try the delicious Caucasian cuisine and visit one of the many Georgian and even Armenian restaurants spread over the city. Spicy Tartar dishes you will find in the Crimea oriented restaurants and one should not leave Kiev without having had his fair share of Ukrainianborscht (beetroot soup) and varenyky (filled dumplings). And of course all should be served with a royal portion of smetana (sour cream).
St. Sophia's Cathedral: the oldest standing church of Kyiv, built in 1037 by Prince Yaroslav the Wise, and meant to compete with the Hagia Sophia in Constantinople
Some of the most interesting sites in Kiev include the Pechersk Lavra (aka the Caves Monastery) with charming mummies of dead monks, swarmed by perky babushkas kissing their feet just to lick some of that holiness off for themselves, is a necrophiliac's dream come true. Another place worth not to be missed in Kiev is the Maidan Nezalezhnosti (Independence Square) or better known as just “Maidan”. That is Kiev’s main square with the Independence Monument where the Orange Revolution in Ukraine started. People now talk about it like it's ancient history, when to me it seems like it was just a few months ago. Oh my god, time really does fly. Considering how many people lost their lives during the endless demonstrations at Maidan, many people now think it's a pretty grim place. Perhaps even more depressing than a mummified monk orgy.
Talking about grim sights: another day trip is a visit of the area around the Chernobyl power plant. This deserted area around the ghost city Pripyat (Prypiat in Ukrainian) was impacted by the biggest nuclear accident in history that took place on 26 April 1986 when nuclear reactor nr. 4 of the plant went down. It is about one hour drive from Kiev and the trip is gaining popularity, especially now the mind-blowing HBO series about the Chernobyl disaster is such a hit.
Kyiv Pechersk Lavra, also known as the Kiev Monastery of the Caves, is a huge monastery complex and particularly famous for the mummified monks in the underground corridors
The most sad and moving site in Kiev, which always leaves me completely speechless, is the Babi Yar ravine, where during the Second World War almost the entire Jewish population was massacred. Within only two days time close to 34,000 people were killed by the Nazis and local Ukrainian collaborators. To my humble opinion everyone should visit this place of remembrance. So that we should never forget one of the biggest crimes to humanity, especially in the turbulent times we are facing nowadays in Europe and elsewhere.
After visiting all these locations that remind us of devastating events, you would get the impression that Kiev is a gloomy and depressed city. But the opposite is true. The Ukrainian capital is a gem, full of amazing architecture, lush parks, fantastic restaurants and beautiful nightclubs filled with beautiful women. So in any case, after all the sight-seeing, you should opt for a night out: drink some vodkas, try the delicious local dishes and dive deep into Kiev's bustling club scene. Believe a true connoisseur of Kiev nightlife: I promise you will see the sun rise again when you get home.
England isn’t the first choice people make when they’re considering their summer break destination, or any time of the year destination, for that matter. The weather can be really nasty, the women are not considered to be very attractive and also about the local food opinions differ a lot. Recently I heard someone saying that there should be a special place in hell for the person who invented vinegar-flavoured crisps. Apart from that I love them,those are just the stereotypes. Underneath those unappealing covers lies something very unique and interesting, for those that dare peek inside. London? No, Manchester! Locals say it’s the place to go for the true explorers, those that aren’t afraid to get their feet dirty, they even say that it is, in some aspects, superior to the capital. Manchester was a small, medieval town with nothing special about it until the Industrial Revolution boosted it to the top 10 of the most prosperous cities in the world. One day someone went for a walk and thought: “Hey, this horrible weather, this humidity and low temperature would be awesome for spinning cotton!”. And thus history was made, a revolution begun. With industry came workers, with workers came abuse and socialism was born. Manchester was frequently visited by Marx and Engels and many other persons crucial to modern history, and was also the birthplace of charity and philanthropy. The importance of this city is largely undercut, but if you look close enough it appears that Manchester is the backbone of our civilization. Mark Twain once said that he would like to move to this city for his final days because there is not much difference between living in Manchester and dying, he wouldn’t even notice the passing.
The Manchester Cathedral, also known as St Mary's, Christ Church or t'owd church, is the seat of the Bischop of Manchester and the city's most famous medieval landmark dating back to more than 600 years ago
The city experienced quite some rough times: gritty, grey and foreboding. In 1996 it was hit in its heart by a 1500kg IRA bomb in 1996; the biggest bomb detonated on British soil since World War II. Over 200 people were injured but for some miraculous reasons there were no fatal casualties. How different from a horrifying event more recently, on 22 May 2017, when a madman committed a suicide bombing in the Manchester Arena, just after a concert by Ariana Grande. So many innocent young lives were taken away on an evening that should have been one of the happiest in their lives. Killing children at a concert; who could ever think that terrorists could get as low as that? But the Mancunians, as the city’s inhabitants call themselves, always demonstrate a remarkable veracity. No matter what they rebuild, show their strength and do their best to see some light even in the darkest times.
The local concert venue and night club The Haçienda in Manchester centre was such a beacon of the local ups and downs on its own. This legendary club opened its doors in 1982 and wasn’t all that legendary at the beginning. In fact, people used to say they have never performed in such a dump. But only a few years later the club was packed every night it. Factory Records, the label behind iconic bands such as Joy Division and New Order, and more specific its manager Tony Wilson kept the entire establishment financial alive. Throughout the years an endless row of famous rock artists, pop stars and DJs performed in The Haçienda. To mention just a few: Madonna who sang her Holiday in her early days, The Fall, The Smiths, and of course the Stone Roses and the Happy Mondays who represented a new wave in the Manchester music scene at the late 80’s. New Order basically lived in The Haçienda: without New Order there would have been no Haçienda and without Haçienda we would never have heard of New Order. Of course Oasis had its gigs there too. As the city’s most famous sons the Gallagher brothers say “It all started in Manchester”. 1986 was the year that the British rave scene started with the full package of teenagers popping ecstasy pills, loud music, neon lights, lasers, and stroboscopes. Techno and early house music were all about love and connection and so was ecstasy. But the reckless dealers and other aggressive low-lives who were after the money started to spoil the scene. The Haçienda became an even shadier spot than it was before. People were beaten up, people died of overdoses and other unfortunate incidents started happening. The club had some narrow escapes but in 1997 it finally lost its license. Shame, really, but the legacy it left behind is undeniable. If you want to know more about Factory Records and The Haçienda it is highly recommended to watch 24 Hour Party People. It’s fun and to my knowledge not any other movie captured so well the spirit of the Manchester music scene.
For those who cannot get a ticket for Old Trafford: England's national museum of football, based in the Urbis building, labels itself as the largest football museum in the world
Music isn’t the only religion that Manchester is known for. Even if you would be a football-hater you would have heard about Manchester United and their home: the legendary stadium Old Trafford. United has over 3 million fans all over the world. Both on local and international level United’s fan base is bigger than the one of that other world-famous club of the same city and eternal rival: Manchester City. I can only imagine how much of a pilgrimage site Old Trafford is for the fans. There’s the compulsory shop, cafes and all the good stuff and this temple of sport is open to visitors during most of the week. Ancient history is also an important part of this revolutionary city. Ruins of a Roman fort are gradually being restored to their former glory, while the Manchester Museum houses even older relics. Exhibits include goodies such as the skeleton of “Stan” the Tyrannosaurus Rex or a collection of Egyptian sarcophagi. All sorts of art and curios from the past are also stored in the Manchester Art Gallery, those include paintings and a fair share of modern art. The Town Hall is also an interesting landmark. It was built as an answer to London’s architecture it looks like a huge lounge with stained wood interior and leather chairs, a place where you’d sit down with a glass of whiskey and a cigar.
Liverpool is one of the most important port towns in history. The city has prospered thanks to two important factors: slavery and The Beatles. People there are like Germans. They are constantly trying to free themselves from that horrible reputation and no matter what they do: they’re still looked down upon by others. People from West Africa were bought for a bit of cotton and transported via Liverpool to Virginia, where they were sold for a rum, more cotton and other wanna-haves in those days. Most Irish, Scottish and English immigrants also embarked on a journey to the New World from Liverpool. The first time I got particularly interested about this city was because of a peculiar comic book: Hellblazer. John Constantine was the main protagonist: a con artist, magician and an absolute failure of a human being. He grew up there in a dysfunctional family and spent his adult days solving supernatural enigmas while sipping on gin and tonic. It’s a great read and I highly recommend it.
The Royal Liver Building, the Cunard Building and the Port of Liverpool Building: The Three Graces at the world famous Pier Head in Liverpool
Being a contemporary architecture lover I was close to drooling when I saw for the first time the futuristic buildings at the dockside. The Equator and other Mann Island buildings that are overlooking the River Mersey make a magnificent contrast and match at the same time with the surrounding old warehouses and the famous Royal Liver Building. Best things in Liverpool are anyway located at the waterfront. I am talking about the UNESCO designated World Heritage Site, the area around St. George’s Hall and the shopping, residential and leisure complex Liverpool ONE. The Big Three Museums: Museum of Liverpool, Museum of Slavery and The Beatles Story are right next to each other and a staple among tourists.
The impressive Liverpool Anglican Cathedral: Britain's biggest cathedral and the 5th largest in Europe
The football fans amongst us should definitely book an excursion to Anfield. The legendary stadium of Liverpool F.C. and named after the area it is located, full of little red brick working-class houses right next to the stadium. Even better and more thrilling is buying a ticket for a Premier League home match of the Reds. Rest assured you will get goose-bumps when the fanatic Liverpool fans on the famous Kop tribune start chanting the club anthem You’ll Never Walk Alone. Afterwards head to Ropewalks area for drinks, I think it’s the reasoning to this city’s name: Liverpool, pool of livers, get it?
“There is no place like London” sang Johnny Depp at the very beginning of the Sweeney Todd: The Demon Barber of Fleet Street. The movie might not portray UK’s capital in the best of ways, namely a dirty, vermin-infested “cesspool”. But it was about London in the 18th century, and much has changed since those times. Even in that slightly unpleasant image, one thing that particularly stood out was the endless variety! The first scene in this peculiar movie shows what London all about: massive numbers of people pouring in from every corner of the world. Different shapes, sizes and races are what strikes you the most when visiting this lovely city. Even after the Brexit, London will remain a massive, crowded and busy metropolis. Actually it is one of the few cities in the world that can compete with New York in this league. In addition to its iconic landmarks such as the St. Paul’s Cathedral, Westminster, the London Tower and Tower Bridge it is also home to an increasing number of skyscrapers and modern and futuristic architecture. Gherkin is an intriguing building designed by Norman Foster in 2003, now famous worldwide. And what to think of the Heron Tower, the London City's tallest skyscraper, and the impressive Tower 42 which are becoming the new eye-catchers of the English capital.
The Tower Bridge, designed in Gothic Victorian style: one of London's iconic landmarks and one of the world's most famous bridges
Apart from famous landmarks, London is a great place for shopping and partying. The most sought-after and exclusive shops are located on Kensington and Knightsbridge streets. Great restaurants, posh clubs and laid-back bars with great music you can find everywhere you go. London is also a perfect town to visit if you’re a fan of music and art festivals, which usually take place during spring/summer season. But the end of the year when the shops and streets are beautifully illuminated and decorated is a great time as well to visit London. You cannot afford to return home from London without presents. So after you are done with the mandatory Christmas shopping visit one of the cozy pubs to warm yourself. I usually end up in Camden Town and after a few pints or something stronger, I completely forget about time. London is typically a city where an outsider can safely explore on his own. You will have no troubles at all to mingle with the friendly locals and many expats who are also often alone and looking for company. In this regard I think London is very different from Paris where you can easily feel lost as a foreigner, especially when you don’t speak French. In London making new acquaintances or even friends for lifetime is as easy as a walk in the park.
Mashed peas, fish and chips, black pudding, London has never had the best reputation when it comes to food. Is it laziness? Maybe lack of knowledge? Britain has always had an abundance of great ingredients, from game meats to amazing, fresh seafood and produce; chefs just couldn’t utilize all that. But there’s a new generation of English chefs. Or rather: chefs that live now in England, but who originate from France and other countries. Legend says that it was Marco Pierre White that started it all. He is the man who was at the forefront of that whole rock star chef revolution and also one of the first to achieve 3 Michelin stars in England. He’s retired now but still owns a few restaurants in London that are definitely worth visiting, like London Steakhouse Co (https://www.londonsteakhousecompany.com/) at 386 King's Road.
Old and new blend well together in London: the skyscraper in London's financial district goes officially under the name 30 St Mary Axe but informally and due to its shape it's better known as The Gherkin
There are so many interesting things to do in London, you could visit the Brixton market and stuff your face with some delicious street food. You could hop on a bus for a classic London sightseeing tour. It’s maybe not very original but a very efficient way to see all the famous tour staples in a short period of time. You could visit the Churchill War Rooms, also know as the Cabinet War Rooms; the secret underground headquarters where Prime Minister Winston Churchill and his staff members lived and worked during the Second World War. The basement offices in Whitehall play an important role in the movie Darkest Hour, that was released in 2017. Check it out on Netflix in case you have not seen it. Gary Oldman got an Oscar for his mind-blowing performance as Churchill. You could also book one of the many Harry Potter tours, if you’re a fan. Walk around the city and visit venues such as the Millennium Bridge, the Reptile House of London Zoo, Leadenhall Market (the entrance to Diagon Alley), Kings Cross Station (home of platform 9 ¾) and other iconic HP filming locations. What I would do? I’d go on pub crawl of an epic proportion. Some of those spots are over 500 years old, so if anyone asks if you’ve seen any historic landmarks in London, you can nod in agreement with a cheeky grin on your face. Try the Guinea (https://www.theguinea.co.uk/) at 30 Bruton Pl, Mayfair, there was an inn at the exact same spot in 1423. Or my personal favourites: The Lamb & Flag (https://www.lambandflagcoventgarden.co.uk/) at 33 Rose Street. It’s a traditional Georgian pub and former haunt of Charles Dickens. Its nickname is “Bucket of Blood” because in former times it was a famous arena of bare-knuckle fights.
