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Dublin city guide

Ireland is a fairyland and its capital Dublin reflects the magic atmosphere and rich culture of the country. Literally and figuratively, its ancient folklore and tradition helped it endure through tough times. Famines, plagues, rebellions and the bloody catholic-protestant conflict is a topic for an entire book. What matters is that it’s over now and things are starting to brighten up for the Emerald Isle. People are strong, warm and welcoming: céad míle fáilte means “a hundred thousand welcomes!” in Gaelic and is a common way of greeting each other. You will experience this lovely attitude throughout the whole of Ireland, you will also trip over rich, obscure history and myth. There’s also the ever-present informality, love for song, fun and merry times. Irish people are like hobbits from the Shire. In fact, most of the countryside looks wild, almost primal just like in Tolkien’s books. Rock formations, hills, valleys, green meadows, wild streams are what comes to mind: it’s the hikers' paradise. You might come across some extraordinary sites while traversing the countryside, such as the ancient burial ground of Brú na Bóinne. This mysterious dome and its surroundings predate even the Egyptian pyramids; those grounds are perfectly aligned with the sun during the winter solstice. It’s beyond astonishing how those ancient people were even capable of such calculations.

St. Patrick's Cathedral, the largest and tallest church in Dublin

All of Ireland’s history, magic and charm come together in Dublin: the proud capital of Ireland. But do not think Dublin is only about traditions and history. It has transformed into a modern cosmopolitan city. The low taxes and favourable business climate have made it very popular with globally operating companies and many decided to establish their European headquarters there. Facebook: check. Google: check. The expats and other people coming along with the foreign businesses further contribute to the vibrant, buzzing and colourful city Dublin has become over the last decades.

There is a story that reminds me of Ireland and Dublin in particular. Two friends got together in a cellar with a fountain of St. Patricks’ sacred water in the middle of it. They cast a spell and turned it into a fountain of Guinness and started drinking. Both got so smashed they literally died and the devil came to collect their souls, in panic they tricked the demon into having a pint of the delicious beverage as their final request. The creature writhed in pain (as it was still stout made from holy water) and disappeared, leaving the two practically immortal, laughing their asses off while pouring themselves another glass. It’s so Irish. People say Guinness is so thick that it serves as both a meal and a drink; the real thing is so dense that if you stick a spoon in it, it should stay up. The brewery in Dublin is kind of a theme park for stout lovers, a museum and a temple to an almost 300-year-old recipe discovered by Arthur Guinness. The Storehouse (https://www.guinness-storehouse.com/), as they call the establishment nowadays, is located at the same place where it all started: St. James’ Gate. They got various tours, tastings and bars on the spot. What goes great with the best stout in the world? A pipe loaded with one of the finest tobacco blends. Peterson Pipes is one of the oldest and most recognized brands of pipes, they also have their headquarters in Dublin. This iconic Irish company was actually founded in 1865 by two Germans and a Latvian and leads the market to this day. Their store on 48-49 Nassau Street is every pipe-smokers Mecca. The few creations of them I possess are by far my most treasured collectibles.

Samuel Beckett Bridge in Dublin with night illumination

A Celtic harp served as a source of inspiration for the design and shape of the Samuel Beckett Bridge

There is a lot to see and experience in Dublin, even if pipe smoking and breakfast in a can aren’t your favourite activities. Irish people hold their written and spoken word in high regard, they’re a nation of prose and poetry, sung and recited. Libraries and places of knowledge are held in high regard. Trinity College (www.tcd.ie/) is not only a landmark but also the top university in Ireland. If that wasn’t enough: their grounds are home to one of the worlds’ most impressive libraries. “The Long Room” holds over a quarter of a million of the countries’ oldest manuscripts. The Chester Beatty Library (www.cbl.ie) is also a world-famous collection of not only books, but artefacts such as clay tablets and ancient paintings. It’s located in the Dublin Castle, which is a tourist staple on its own. Even though it might not be the classic, medieval stronghold type it’s still a wondrous mish-mash of styles that have layered out on top of the original building since 1204. Quite recently discovered excavations of Viking-era foundations are also open to visitors.

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Thessaloniki city guide

You don’t hear all that much about Thessaloniki as a mainstream tourist destination. People usually pick Santorini, Mykonos or Rhodes as their primary summer vacation spots. Others go for Athens if they’re feeling ambitious. People choose Thessaloniki when they’ve seen most of what Greece has to offer or when all their favourite spots are booked. It is often put at the bottom of “10 most interesting…” lists. It’s the second largest city in Greece, “the second capital”. In fact it has always been second, even during its early days they used to call it “the second city” after the Constantinople. People who eventually get past that “second best” idea about Thessaloniki are pleasantly surprised and tend to come back. Most will agree this is a special city, a gem with a real beating heart to it. A huge part of Thessaloniki’s attraction lies in its incredible friendly inhabitants. Even tour guides call themselves “hosts” and aim for the guests to not just see the city but also experience it.

Alexander the Great statue against the sunset sky

Remarkable statue of legendary Alexander the Great on his famous horse Bucephalus situated on the quay of Thessaloniki

There is a history of this exceptional tolerance among the inhabitants of the “Jerusalem of the Balkans”, which was a major refuge for victims of the First World War and a base of operations of the allied forces. Thessaloniki always had a very large population of Jews, but that was until the horror of the Holocaust knocked on the door. And some 25 years earlier the Great Fire decimated the city in 1917. History repeats itself so now and then and It seems there arrives always some kind of a catastrophe when things seem to go too well. A scapegoat was needed to be blamed for accidentally starting the inferno. Apparently, it was common knowledge that there was no firearm department in Thessaloniki at that time, and someone leaving the gas on seems a bit too convenient. But yeah, let’s blame the Jews and the refugees. But that was then and although a new influx of immigrants and economic crisis affected Greece seriously Thessaloniki is thriving. Under the new management large parts of the city are rebuilt and restored and the city appears to be stronger than ever, and Thessaloniki is boldly looking towards the future.

Thessaloniki is slow, very chill during the day. People sit around in café’s playing chess while sipping on coffee or ouzo. The evenings, though… this city does a full 180, people wake up and engage party mode, it presumably has the most bars and cafes per capita out of all the European cities. I once was so lucky to receive an invitation for the marriage of my Greek friend in Thessaloniki. Since then I know where the expression big fat Greek wedding comes from. The wedding party was followed up by a lot of after-parties organized by the newly married couple and I still remember how surprised I was by the overwhelming presence of hip bars, cosy taverns and posh clubs in town.

The White Tower in Thessaloniki bordered by trees

The White Tower in Thessaloniki traces its lineage to the 15th century and was built by the Ottomans as a defense tower in the harbour

Not only Thessaloniki nightlife is booming; there are also plenty of things to do during the day. You can start with a tour of all the Byzantine architecture Thessaloniki has to offer. Several of the city’s most important monuments were built to celebrate Gaius Galerius Valerius Maximianus Augustus, or Galerius in short, Roman emperors loved their long, exaggerated names. In fact, there was an entire Palace Complex of Galerius from which the Rotonda and a Triumphant Arch remain mostly intact. People are guessing that the Rotonda was built in the 4th century as a mausoleum for Galerius, but it ultimately served as a place of worship and currently goes by the name of the Church of Saint George. Nowadays it also serves as the Thessaloniki Sculpture Museum. The White Tower is another relic of the Byzantine era, it currently serves as a viewing platform but it used to be a part of enormous fortifications that protected the city during the Ottoman rule. You can climb it for a great view of the port or enjoy exhibitions of historic artefacts housed within. If you enjoyed that climb you can take it a step further and explore the Upper Town (Ano Poli) with its almost 2000-year-old ramparts, fountains and a few very old churches. It’s also the top spot for a romantic date; a bottle of wine, snacks and a sunset should seal the deal.

It should be around late evening when you’re done with all that sightseeing, perfect time to go out and see what the fuss is all about. Most of the older taverns with live music and the best food are located at the Ladadika district, vis-à-vis the port. Thessaloniki is known for fresh seafood and delicious pastries; you can find all that around numerous markets and street stands spread throughout the city. Igglis Tavern at Irodotou 32 is a bit off the beaten path but it’s one of those authentic Greek taverns where locals hang around. You definitely should give it a try; snack on mezedes (sort of Greek tapas) and wash it down with tsipouro or raki. There are no beaches in the city itself but there’s an impressive seaside promenade with enough bars and clubs to keep you entertained until sunrise. Treat your hangover in Kafodio Elliniko at Ioustinianou 3, a traditional Greek café that also serves craft beer. You know; just in case of an emergency. And when if you still have a desire for sandy beaches: Thessaloniki can serve as an excellent base to travel to the Khalkidhiki peninsula. That is at least what I did to recover from 1 week parties; it is typical an area where the locals go for beach holidays, and that is always a good sign.

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Athens city guide

Athens, the oldest city in Europe, the cradle of diplomacy, the seat of philosophy, culture and so much more. The modern world would not be the same without Greece and Athens. Even their mythology is so widely known that we read it in elementary school even before the Bible, which demonstrates how significant and valuable it is compared to “the other book”. Athens is the largest Greek city, and still it only has around 650,000 inhabitants, while the whole metropolitan area has 3.75 million. But it makes up to these digits with incoming tourists; an incredible number of 3,5 million people visit the capital every single year. When we calculate the all the other destinations like the islands each year then the total number of foreigners coming to Greece add up to more than 22 million people. It demonstrates how important tourism is to the Hellenic Republic.

The columns of Temple of Olympian Zeus in Athens

Even with the remaining 15 columns (originally 104) you can imagine how huge was the Temple of Olympian Zeus in Athens

Athens is probably not the best city to visit in summer when the high temperatures and city smog can become unbearable. But the city should definitely be on the list of every traveller. From the iconic Acropolis and its Parthenon to the pedestrian-only promenade in the ancient city centre, which is one of the longest in Europe. Athens can rival with the eternal city Rome and all other world-famous cities. Remember the great financial crisis? It seems the Greeks are slowly but surely getting over it. The country is shaking it off like and it is starting to flourish again. Foreigners, especially the Chinese businessmen but also local entrepreneurs are investing again into tourism and infrastructure.

No matter how much time you have, a visit of Athens will not be complete without seeing the archaeological site of the Acropolis, which is the most important ancient Greek monument of the entire world. Yes, you can see especially the Parthenon from almost every location in Athens since it is towering over the city and especially at nights when the monuments are illuminated, it is a magnificent picture. But I am sorry: it does not fully count and you will need to see it for yourself. So move your lazy ass and go up although it might be a tiresome climb, especially on hot summer days. Acropolis means “upper city” and this is where people lived 5000 B.C and where they felt better protected against the continuing attacks by enemies. It is regarded as the birthplace of democracy, and it paid the path for modern civilizations. You will enter the site through Beule Gate and then pass through the Propylaia entrance where you can already check out the Temple of Athena Nike.

Without any doubts the most photographed monument at the Acropolis is the Parthenon, which means “apartment of the Virgin” and was erected to honour the goddess Athena the virgin who gave the city all of its wealth. Go also seeing the Odeon of Herodus Atticus, ancient theatre built in the Roman Times, which is functioning already for 2,000 years as a theatre for music and many other performances. Allow yourself also some time for visiting the Acropolis Museum; its large glass panes and walkways will offer you amazing panoramic views to old and modern Athens.

Erechtheion on the Acropolis and view over the city

The grand Erechteion in Acropolis built on the place of the legendary dispute between Poseidon and Athene

Also the downtown of Athens centre has some famous ancient sights such as the Temple of Zeus, also known as the Olympeion, built to honour the father of all Gods. And there is of course the famous Arch of Hadrian, a triumphal arch to glorify the Roman Emperor Hadrian. The Agora, which translates as “gathering place” is less invaded by huge hordes of tourists than the Acropolis. But it can grant the same mind-blowing experience of travelling back to the ancient Greek times. This was once the buzzing commercial, political and intellectual epicentre of Athens, filled to the brim with shops, markets and schools. Close your eyes and imagine you hear Socrates teaching again his wisdom to young students.

So far, so good for ancient Athens. When you are hungry and thirsty and fed up with ruins, Corinthian pillars and Gods, you definitely need to indulge yourself into Athens’ vibrant restaurants and nightlife scene. Head to Plaka, the atmospheric area in downtown Athens that genuinely feels like a village within the city. It is now mainly a pedestrian zone and filled to the brim with restaurants and bars. According to local partygoers it has lost a bit of its attraction when the local authorities decided to close down many night clubs in Plaka because they played too loud music and also you could come across some tourist traps. For a different, more edgy atmosphere you could alternatively visit Gazi, which has become the new hot spot in town. It is very popular with the local hipsters and alternative crowds. It’s a bit out of the city centre but can be easily reached with metro line 3. Nevertheless, Plaka is still a very good place to spend the evening and you can always go clubbing later on since the city literally never sleeps. Sit down in one of those charming taverns in Plaka, order some of those delicious famous Greek tapas called meze and let it be accompanied by a glass of wine or some stronger local liquids. Jamas!

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Nicosia city guide

Cyprus is a paradise island, immensely popular with tourists from all over Europe who come for the steady sunny weather, azure blue sea and magnificent mountainous countryside. Traditionally also Russians and businessmen from the nearby Middle East have major interests in the flourishing local economy. Despite its friendly atmosphere the island has a long history of conflicts and occupations. In the past, it belonged to the Greeks, Phoenicians, Romans, Ottomans and even the English until 1950. Present-day Cyprus and even its capital Nicosia are split by, what they call, the Berlin Wall 2. The Republic of Cyprus, member of the EU since 2004 and part of the Euro zone since 2008, has formally sovereignty over the entire island. But in reality the island is divided into two main parts: the area under the effective control of the Republic of Cyprus, located in the south and west, and comprising about 59% of the island's area; and the northern part administered by the self-declared Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus, covering about 36% of the island's area.

Prayer towers of Selimiye Mosque in Nicosia

The Selimiye Mosque also known as the Cathedral of Saint Sophia: a former Roman Catholic cathedral functioning now as the biggest mosque of Nicosia, located in the Northern part of the city

Another nearly 4% of the island's territory is part of the UN buffer zone. The Northern part is only recognized as an independent state by Turkey and the occupation is viewed as illegal under international law. The official statement of international authorities is that Cyprus is under Turkish occupation and the conflict is in a state of a ceasefire. But despite the troubled times and the recent financial crisis, which hit Cyprus’s economy quite hard, the island and its inhabitants demonstrate a lot of resilience. Younger generations seem to care less about the past and animosity all that much, and just like the Irish, hope for the unification of their treasured homeland.

All these cultures that rolled through Cyprus have left a little bit behind, from architecture to cuisine, or even driving on the left side of the road. The island is home to all kinds of ancient ruins left behind by those civilizations. Ancient Kourion; a Mycenaean settlement founded around 13th century BC, is the prime tourist destination on the southern part of Cyprus, also a World Heritage Site. Sanctuary of Apollon Ylatis is 2 kilometres outside of Kourion; it has been restored quite recently and is a sight to behold, with priest quarters, baths and a stadium available for exploration. It was a pilgrimage destination and a worship site for believers from all of Cyprus, apparently also for sportsmen. North part of the island has its own set of pre-Christian ruins, such as Salamis. One of the first city-kingdoms on Cyprus, Salamis is huge and even though it had its ups and downs, it has always been the centre of culture, philosophy, and prosperity for Cypriots of old. “Cypriots” sounds like a race of alien robots. It must’ve been the first mega-gym in recorded history with its pools, gymnasiums, and baths, plus a theatre for the post-workout chill. Royal Tombs of Salamis are nearby, holding remains of Mycenaean kings and treasure beyond measure! Or at least what’s left of it, after centuries of tomb raiding and grave robbing.

Houses and church of Moutoullas village in the mountainous area of Nicosia

When you are tired of hectic Nicosia you can explore pieceful villages such as Moutoullas in the mountainous area nearby

I know Cyprus might sound like a retirement destination. But don’t judge a book by its cover: the island is very much alive and has a lot in store besides all those dusty ruins and boring stories. The beaches are stunning, even if a bit small and crowded for my taste, but they make up for it with numbers. Ask the locals, if you don’t feel like fighting for a sunbathing spot. You just might stumble upon a beach straight out of that Leonardo di Caprio movie. You will find all of Cyprus strong assets: sun, ancient culture, vibrant nightlife, delicious local food, and much more in the divided capital Nicosia. The city split in two by a UN demilitarized zone or Green Zone in the 21st century is surreal. The two divided city parts even serve the same dishes in restaurants, sausages, for example. The recipe is the same but they use different kinds of meat, depending on which part of the city you eat them. In the northern part of Nicosia they are created from with, while in southern part they will use pork meat. It’s exactly how Nicosia feels; everything is familiar yet slightly different depending on which side of the border you will be.

The city is surrounded by Venetian Walls- virtually untouched Renaissance fortifications that were supposed to protect it from the Ottoman invasion. It didn’t work so well, the walls were breached and the city was taken, but they’re still very beautiful and remain a tourist staple. One of the most interesting buildings on the island was build under the Ottoman rule. Büyük Han or The Great Inn was built as caravanserais, an inn where travellers and caravans could make a stop and rest. The British Empire adapted it, during the colonial age, and turned the inn into a prison. Nowadays it functions as a community centre with workshops, galleries and cafés. I only scratched the surface of what this mysterious city has to offer. Delicious Turkish sweets, Greek table dancing and plate smashing, two fiery cultures clash to create something very unique. You won’t be disappointed if you’re visiting Nicosia for the nightlife either. Cypriots love to spend their long warm evenings in numerous bars, clubs, restaurants, and wineries.

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Ankara city guide

Ankara became the capital of the Republic of Turkey in 1920. That is not that long ago in the grand scheme of things. But the city itself is much, much older. Remains of a settlement from the Bronze Age (2000 years BC) have been discovered. The official city named Ancyra was built around 1000 BC by Midas; the mythical king that turned everything into gold. Legends such as Alexander the Great, Roman Emperors and even Homer passed through that humble city. Ankara is one, huge archeological site and many relicts of Greek, Roman, Celtic, Byzantine and Ottoman architecture still remain undiscovered. You can walk around Roman Baths from the 2^nd century, as if it was a park. You could probably sit down and pop a brew at the same spot that imperial generals chilled in a Jacuzzi. Ankara lacked that one thing that made Istanbul the capital for over 16 centuries: the localization.

So why did they make Ankara the capital? This nation didn’t have an easy past; there were empires, wars both won and lost and possibly a couple of bad political choices. Turkey found itself shrivelled to a fraction of its former power following the World War I. From this conundrum a real leader, a legend emerged: Mustafa Kemal Atatürk aimed to reclaim their homeland which resulted in the Turkish War of Independence, which formed Turkey as we know today. You can learn all about that war at the Independence War Museum, located near the Ulus Square. Atatürks Mausoleum Anıtkabir (which means literally memorial tomb in Turkish) is another must-see in the capital. Amazing how revered one person can be; this whole complex is nothing short of an Egyptian pyramid. All constructed for just one person and it’s not even ancient history since the guy was alive less than a hundred years ago. Why would they even move the capital from such an iconic site like Istanbul? Same reason why you don’t call your ex when sober, a fresh start, new beginning, leaving the past behind. They wanted Ankara to become the shining beacon, a place that would become a symbol of progress for the Turks.

Ankara Castle beneath a flock of birds and panorama view of Ankara

Ankara Castle (Ankara Kalesi), also known as Ankara Citadel (Hisar), is situated on a hill top and offers great views over the entire city

Modern Turkey is fluid, unpredictable, some say that they’re a “nation of collective amnesia”, quick to forget political executions and oppression. The current rulers put their bets on centralized power, dogmas, nationalism and overall stupidity. They’re at a point that my European countries find themselves in. Eurosceptic populism is everywhere, people don’t trust outsiders and would rather sit in their own tents than be a part of something bigger. There are some who oppose that and they often end up missing. There are also some that approve of those politics. We’re all different, there are multidimensional people and there are the simple folks.

While Turkish politics are questionable, to say the least, the country is experiencing a tremendous economic growth and is transforming into something very unique and interesting. Ankara is an embodiment of this new direction that Turks are heading in. The capital is a city rich in history and a living testimony to Turkey’s financial and cultural growth. While not as monumental as Istanbul with its’ Ottoman palaces, it radiates its own, peculiar charm. Ankara is a city of students, education and vibrant nightlife. Streets are booming with restaurants, bars and café’s visited by an ever-increasing number of international youth that doesn’t seem to care about the current state of affairs or human rights. Local restaurants serve dishes that are not only a treat for the eye. The Turkish cuisine is one of the richest in the entire world.

Ankara is incomparable to Istanbul. It’s like comparing Milan to Rome. Both are the largest cities in a country but they’re completely different. One is rooted in the glorious past while the other is looking forward to the bright future. That said there’s still a lot to see, after all, there’s evidence of settlements in this area from 1200 BC, you can witness traces and relics of those times in the Museum of Anatolian Civilizations. This remarkable site houses artefacts from every single archeological site in Anatolia, statues, clay tablets, remains of primordial monkey-humans, all the good museum stuff that everyone loves so much. When Atatürk moved the capital, he wanted his people to be closer to nature and the animal kingdom, that’s why Ankara is so green, has so many parks and its zoo is populated with species from all over the world.

Frog's-eye view of the Mausoleum of Mustafa Kemal Atatürk

Anıtkabir (literally, "memorial tomb") erected for Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, founder of modern Turkey and first President of the Republic of Turkey, sits high above the city of Ankara

Nightlife in Ankara is a glorious mess, clearly inspired by Western Europe. Most bars are stylized after British pubs, such as the Newcastle Pub or the London Pub. Gardens and sidewalk cafés are crowded during the warmer months and that’s where the locals usually hang out. Ankara isn’t short on modern clubs, where world’s best DJs often perform. Turkey might have “borrowed” some ideas from the western cultures, but they’ve also contributed to the worldwide drinking culture with one of the most popular drunk-foods ever. Kebab, the iconic fast-food is miles above anything you’d get at your local kebab joint. Get ready for delicious meat roasted over open fire, fresh vegetables, marinades, spices, and sauces. It’s incomparable to the pre-made crap they’re feeding us poor, inebriated folks here in Europe.

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Istanbul city guide

I always thought of Istanbul as an ancient city full of culture and tradition, kind of religious, powerful and stiff and powerful like its predecessor Constantinople was once in the old days. That was until I came across Kedi, a documentary about cats in Istanbul. Yeah cats. I was baffled by how multicultural, colourful and vibrant the city is. Despite of the current political developments Istanbul is still a prominent travel destination and self-proclaimed “World’s Hippest City”. Clubs, bars are galleries are springing up alongside Ottoman Mosques like mushrooms after rain and curious people from all over the world flock to this unique city. Istanbul is slowly becoming a pop culture icon. Istanbul is also more tolerant, liberal and multi-cultural than someone would expect. No matter how hard conservative powers will do their best to fight it; under the surface there is still a vibrant gay and trans-sexual nightlife scene. And do not forget despite the current trends there’s still a huge number of foreigners and expats living in this amazing city. And they know where to have their fair share of fun and meet like-minded people. At my first night out in Istanbul I got acquainted with a passionate Kurdish journalist and a crazy female opera singer from Argentina and we painted the night red. We ended up in some sleek top-roof bar, which at least in those days was very popular with the local gay community, and granted stunning views over the Bosporus. From that moment I genuinely felt what you would read everywhere: Istanbul is many cities in one and in culture and mentality completely different from the rest of the country.

Hagia Sofia when evening falls over Istanbul

Hagia Sophia, which name means "holy wisdom", was the largest building in the world during the Byzantine Empire, after serving as a church and a mosque it's now a museum and one of Istanbul's top attractions

If you’re looking for historical landmarks you can eat your heart out in Istanbul. Of course there is the world-famous Hagia Sophia (Aya Sofya). This architectural masterpiece went through some turbulent times during its long-standing history. First it was an orthodox church, later turned into a roman-catholic church, before it became orthodox again, after that it became a mosque, and now it functions as a museum, but there is still a prayer room. From the outside it might not be the most impressive landmark in town; but the real beauty is inside with its overwhelming domes and magnificent mosaics. If you are lucky you can listen to the call of prayer between the muezzins in Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque. The Blue Mosque, officially the Sultan Ahmed Mosque, is famous for its 6 minarets and blue domed exterior. Since it is still a functioning mosque you will need to dress properly when you want to have a peek inside. The Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia are without doubt the most famous landmarks and visited by 1000s of visitor each day. Especially when you to prefer a more quiet and intimate setting you should visit the Süleymaniye Mosque, the largest and also magnificent mosque in Istanbul. Many visitors come also to see the tombs of Süleyman and Roxalana, and the tomb of Sinan outside the complex.

The former sultans of Istanbul liked to be surrounded by comfort and luxury and had 1000s servants at their disposal. Not forget to mention the intriguing harems where they could relax a bit from all the stress and tensions that comes along with ruling the country and making war. Therefore a visit to Istanbul is not complete without seeing a few of these magnificent palaces. By far the best known is the Topkapi Palace, a huge complex with lush green gardens and magnificent courtyards, which was the home of the Ottoman Sultans for almost 400 years. The famous Harem Apartments consisting of more than 400 rooms for their concubines, wives, children and other relatives and also the treasury (hazine in local language) displaying the world-famous Spoonmaker's Diamond and Topkapi Dagger and the arms room full of swords and bows are the hotspots. For breathtaking views of the Sea of Marmara, Bosphorus and Golden Horn you have come to the right address as well. Another popular palace is the Dolmabahçe Palace where the last sultans of the Ottoman Empire had their residence. Its purpose was to beat the Topkapi in luxury and demonstrate that the empire was still alive and kicking while in reality it was slowly but inevitable falling apart. The amount of gold leaf, marble and crystal is simply overwhelming and the ceremonial hall is home to the world’s largest Bohemian crystal chandelier. After the collapse of the Ottoman Empire, the founder of the Turkish Republic, Atatürk moved in. As a tribute to the great leader, all clocks in the palace show 09.05 am which was the moment he passed away on November 10, 1938.

For another intriguing site in Istanbul you will have to descend and go under street level to visit the Basilica Cistern (in Turkish: Yerebatan Sarnıcı or Yerebatan Saray). It is an ancient masterpiece of Byzantine engineering, which was bringing drinking water to the city via aqueducts from current Bulgaria. Prepare for a mystical atmosphere with dimmed lights, columns with Medusa’s head, pools full of fish to the backdrop of classical music and the sound of dripping water. It’s truly magic and some might find it even a bit spooky. For a more lively ambiance and the mandatory shopping you can visit on of the many bazaars in the city. The Grand Bazaar and the Spice Bazaar are the largest and most famous covered markets in town. Especially the Grand Bazaar is pretty huge with more than 3,000 shops and spread over 60 streets so be sure you do not get lost there. The best panoramic 360 degree view over the city you could enjoy from the Galata Tower, a 60 meters high tower which looks a bit like Rapunzel’s home in a fairy tale.

Inner court of the Blue Mosque beautifully illuminated by night

The Blue Mosque, named after the blue tiles on the interior walls, still functions as a mosque nowadyas and with its six gracious minarets it is one of Istanbul's most eye-catching buildings

When you see the magnificent Bosporus and on a clear sunny day even the Princes’ Islands you will certainly get an appetite for booking a boat cruise trip. This is definitely worthwhile doing, maybe especially when you do not have much time since it offers you the opportunity to seem many palaces, mosques and stunning mansions at both the European and Asian banks in a relatively short time. No matter the type of cruise you would book you will certainly pass the Maiden’s Tower (Turkish: Kız Kulesi). There are many legend about this place, the most popular tale is that it was build in order of a local rich man who wanted to protect his only daughter from a deadly snake bite which was predicted in a nasty prophecy. You probably will not have need a lot of imagination to guess how the story ended when the father left his daughter unattended to do some shopping. Your boat will also pass under the famous Galata Bridge. It is a great experience to cross this bridge by foot instead of talking the light rail and enjoy the typical local scene such as the local fishermen and vendors selling sesame covered pretzels.

The Asian side of Istanbul is worth visiting anyway since it offers a different and some will say a more local look and feel compared to the European side which better known by tourists. Visiting a hammam, the renowned Turkish steam bath, is almost mandatory. Do a little power nap on the cool marble in a hot steam room and have a good scrub and strong massage. After that your skin will be as fresh and soft as of a baby and you will be ready for the night. Last but not least: indulge yourself in the wonderful local food scene. Turkish cuisine is without a doubt one of the richest and most varied in the world. If you are tight on budget you could also survive on the wonderful street food this city has the offer. Eat a kumpir; a baked potato, mixed with cheese and butter. Sink your teeth in a börek or döner kebab. And don’t miss out on lahmacun, the thin and lovely Turkish equivalent of pizza, topped with minced meat, vegetables and herbs. If you are a sweet tooth you will be stunned by the variety of baklava. I bet you are getting hungry already, right?

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St. Julian's city guide

St. Julian’s is an enchanting little city located on the island of Malta. It’s 7km north from the capital Valletta, but it all feels like one area and not as separate municipalities. Some people still seem to think it’s a part of Italy, but it’s a republic of its own. Malta is like that “most interesting man on earth” meme. There are structures thousands of years older than the Pyramids in Egypt. It used to be a nursing place for soldiers fighting in both world wars. It was a base of operations for the allied troops. You can check the Lascaris War Rooms out if you want to learn more. The last proper battle of the Crusader Knights was the Siege of Malta, which was the beginning of the end of the Ottoman Empire. All that and more on an island the size of 10 landing strips. It has become a popular travel destination lately, even though few travel guides cover it. People recognize the name but where from? The Maltese dog? The new Yorkshire terrier? The Chihuahua of 2019? You never know with these small breeds; will they cuddle or will they bite your balls off. Those vicious little beasts have been around since 500 BC. The breed is literally older than Jesus. St. Julian’s is like that: tiny, beautiful, ferocious, lots of fun and love.

Arial view at St. Julians and Sliema in Malta

St. Julians in Malta: named after the legendary medieval saint, this seaside town and Malta's nightlife hub is even more popular than Sliema due to the Paceville area, the so-called Mecca of entertainment

Buildings on the island are built from limestone, of which there has always been plenty of around the Mediterranean. Everything looks like a sand sculpture and it’s great. There are actual government regulations that buildings need to be of a certain colour to match the old architecture. It seems that developers and investors found a way to bypass those rules. Now they’re raising these malls and office buildings that don’t fit in. The Portomaso Business Tower is the perfect example, it sticks out like a sore thumb. It’s big and ugly. The only good things about it are the nightclubs and the balconies with the most amazing view of Malta. But who am I to judge? “Money talks”, right? There is a lot of money in St. Julian’s. Malta is a tax haven for many a European businessman and Mafioso. It’s not Sicily from the Godfather but it still had its fair share of scandals. Remember that Trump election controversy? How the Kremlin had some dirt on Hilary Clinton? Yeah, that came from a Maltese professor who, since then, miraculously disappeared.

All that aside, St. Julian’s and Malta as a whole, make the perfect vacation spot. A place to spend a romantic weekend with a significant other. Malta is beloved by moviemakers, masterpieces such as Troy, Gladiator, parts of Game of Thrones and many others were shot on this iconic island. People tend to complain about local beaches. How the sand is grey and coarse instead of silky smooth and golden. I swear people would bitch about Garden of Eden; how there are too many snakes, or that the apples are sour. I much prefer these charming, cameral spots to more popular, overcrowded beaches. The ones around the Spinola Bay are the best ones in St. Julian’s.

Carmelite Church, aka Balluta Parish Church, bathing in sunlight at St. Julian's

The neo-Gothic Carmelite Church, also known as Balluta Parish Church, in St. Julian's seems to hang over the Balluta Bay, adorning the entire coast of the bay

Everyone speaks English and it’s pretty cheap, compared to most of the countries within the Eurozone. You can buy a full dinner of local goodies with a glass of wine for a price of McDonald’s Big Mac Menu. Make sure you try some of their delicious rabbit dishes. St. Julian’s is quiet, almost serene during the day. But the evenings are an entirely different story. Paceville is The Nightlife Spot on Malta. It feels like the entire archipelago groups up in this one place, for better or worse. Yes, there are amazing bars, yes there are 72 shots for €24 deals. And yes, you can get your teeth kicked in by a bunch of drunken kids. Paceville is what happens when you take the Ibiza crowds and compress them into two blocks. They even nicknamed it “Partyville” and I have to say it fits perfectly. The crime rates here are five times the average on Malta and drugs are more than common. With some of the lowest prices for drinks in the EU, you’d best keep an eye on your glass. Getting roofied and waking up in an ice bath, missing a kidney is not the best way to spend your summer vacation. Stay away from bars and clubs with groups of loud, barely legal kids. Even better: go on a group pub-crawl. You know already: safety in numbers and all that.

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Florence city guide

I got a good glimpse of Florence in the sequel to The Silence of the Lambs, the one where he eats a guys’ brain and stabs another guy in an artery and leaves him to bleed out on a crowded street. The movie wasn’t as good as the first one, but it showed where a sophisticated psychopath like Hannibal Lecter would live if he ever escaped containment. Florence smells of almond soaps, perfume you can’t buy anywhere else in the world, and pizza. And then there is that characteristic smell of old stuff. You know, that museum smell of formalin and cold, if cold was a smell. Florence, or Firenze as the Italians say, is located in a sort of a focal point between Rome, Venice, and Milan. Compared to the other three cities it has a more small community, village feel to it. It’s strange considering how much of an impact this relatively small city had on the modern world. A world, which would not be the same without the inventions and imagination of the genius Leonardo da Vinci. And the Michelangelo’s iconic David is out on display in the Accademia Gallery among other historical works of art. This genius artist was laid to rest in the Basilica of Santa Croce, also known as the Temple of the Italian Glories alongside other giants such as Galileo and Machiavelli. Tupac Shakur used that name as an alter ego and he’s most likely the one who brought Machiavelli to pop culture. I don’t see a clear connection. Machiavelli was that dick who wrote The Prince; a book that to this day is a tutorial in backstabbing and instructed generations of corrupt politicians.

Statue of David in Piazza della Signoria in Florence

Located in front of the Palazzo Vecchio, Piazza della Signoria in Florence is the point of concentration of many interesting sculptures – from David by Michelangelo to Judith and Holofernes by Donatello and Perseus with the Head of Medusa by Cellini

The Florence Cathedral (fomally: Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore or simply the Duomo) is a symbol of Florence and mind-blowing. The construction started in 1296 and took almost 200 years to finish. It’s not just a big church, it’s an entire complex consisting of the Duomo, the Baptistery and Giotto's Campanile, everything located on the Piazza del Duomo and listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The dome itself is a marvel of architecture, largest bricked one in the world; you can even climb on top of it for the best view of Florence. I love these things, narrow passages, almost claustrophobic but oh so mysterious, makes you think what kind of secrets are buried within the walls of this humongous building. When being in Firenze you cannot afford either to miss out on the Uffizi Gallery, where you can admire the work of Leonardo da Vinci, Michelangelo, Giotto and Botticelli. Also the collection of Greek and Roman sculptures of the Uffizi is overwhelming, both in size and quality.

Stroll around the Ponte Vecchio, the old bridge over the Arno river, world famous and very characteristic with the households and boutiques built into it. It used to be a disgusting meat market, butchers would dump buckets of intestines and blood and everything they couldn’t sell straight into the river. The Medici ruled Florence during that time; they ruled most of Europe really, due to the huge wealth they accumulated thanks to the Medici Bank. I even heard about some tinfoil hat theories how they still rule the world, how Citi Bank is their spiritual child, about the Secret Society of the Illuminati and other conspiracy bullshit. Anyway, the Medici weren’t fond of all that waste flowing down the river, stinking their city up. So they kicked the meat vendors out and replaced them with jewellers who occupy that space to this day. The discovery of perfume is also attributed to the Medici. Renato Bianco discovered it when he was brewing various poisons for that family. I suppose they needed it for “stuff” and turns out that the first perfume in the world was a by-product of murder. If you’re interested in all sorts of heavenly smells then you should definitely visit the 600-year-old perfume store Officina Profumo – Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella (https://www.smnovella.com/) at Via della Scala, 16.

Panoramic view of the bridge Ponte Vecchio in Florence with night illumination

The bridge Ponte Vecchio in Florence: the uniqueness of this bridge is that it has never been changed since its construction in 1345; now there are numerous shops built along this bridge

Florentine cuisine is unique and very distinctive compared to the rest of Italy. One could even say that it’s an acquired taste. Tripe, chicken liver paste on toast or tomato soup made with stale bread, those aren’t universally adored dishes like pizza and gelato. There’s also the Bistecca alla Fiorentina or simply La Bistecca, which is a huge T-bone steak. Nothing special but everyone loves steak. You can taste both of those worlds in Florence’s Central Market. Mercato Centrale consists of two floors; one is your basic market with vendors selling fresh meats, fruit and produce, while the second floor is more of a food court with restaurants and bars. The region Tuscany (Toscana) is famous for its winemaking tradition and you can take advantage of that. Wine tours are all about getting wasted while pretending you’re sophisticated and trying to broaden your knowledge. Drop the appearances; just go get smashed in one of the numerous bars like La Terrazza Rooftop Bar on top of Hotel Continentale at Vicolo dell'Oro, 6.

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Milan city guide

My childhood friend and his fiancée visited Milan a few months ago and they returned absolutely mesmerized by this classy part of Italy. I asked them both what was so great about it, she mentioned fashion and wine, while he couldn’t shut up about football. But even if you are not a huge fan of either of those Milano will certainly seduce you. Some people compare Milan to one of the models that constantly roam this city in search of a career, awesome on the outside but a bit shallow on the inside; ”no soul” as they say. In my opinion, it’s only because people compare it to Rome and let’s be real: everything pales in comparison with the Eternal City. Does it mean Milan or Milano as the Italians call it is not worth visiting? Not in the slightest, this city is unique in its own regard and totally worth spending a few days. Also known as the capital of Lombardy, Milan is a city that isn’t as grounded in the past as the rest of Italy, it’s the city of banking, business conventions, modelling, fashion and decadent luxury. If your credit card allows you can indulge yourself in the overwhelming presence of Armani, Versace, Prada, Dolce & Gabbana and Gucci boutiques. I always attributed this aura of expensiveness to the nearby border with Switzerland. But that doesn’t mean that there aren’t any historic wonders to witness.

The giant white marble cathedral Duomo di Milano, made in the ornate style of flaming Gothic (late Gothic architecture), has become a symbol of Milan and one of the most famous buildings in the world

The enormous train station (Milano Centrale) restored in 1931 is a remnant of fascist architecture, quite common in Milan as it was the centre and the end of Mussolini’s rule over Italy. Dictators have this thing with building huge monuments, obviously larger than life, as if they’re compensating for something, just like the Catholic Church. The Milan Cathedral (Duomo di Milano) is in fact the third largest in Europe. It took six centuries to build and to this day functions as the throne of the archbishop. It’s huge, gothic, over the top and it’s mostly made of marble, someone really went all out on this one. Visiting the Duomo is an intense experience. Even if you’re not into churches it’s still worth entering and climbing on the rooftop, if only to enjoy the amazing view of Milano and the golden statue of Virgin Mary overlooking the city from the top of a spire. San Bernardino alla Ossa is another, very unique place of worship, it looks plain on the outside but the inside is shocking, the church cemetery ran out of room to bury people at one point and they decided to put peoples’ remains into a chamber called the ossuary, it looks like something out of H.R. Geiger’s art book.

Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II is the second most characteristic building in Milan, named after the man who somehow managed to unite Italy. It’s essentially a shopping mall but more like an entire shopping district, or block under a glass roof held by an iron frame. Paintings and mosaics adorn buildings and floors, one of them representing Turin or Torino. The small bull is said to bring good luck if you step on its testicles, “bulls balls” if you will. Only the most exclusive brands are allowed to set up shop here. They even gave McDonald's the middle finger when they aimed to open a restaurant under this prestigious roof.

Galleria Vittorio in Milan from the inside

The shopping gallery, connecting the two pearls of Milan – the Duomo Cathedral and the world-famous La Scala Theater – is simply a work of art

Milan is also the city of the famous renaissance icon Leonardo Da Vinci and none of his works are more recognizable than the Last Supper. Santa Maria Delle Grazie is a convent that houses that masterpiece, it was bombarded during the war but the fresco somehow survived the disaster. Getting to witness all of its glory in person is not that easy, Da Vinci painted it using experimental methods, because…well, he was Da Vinci and it’s quite fragile. You’ll need to book in advance and undergo a process that minimizes the humidity you could add to the chamber. Canals in Milan are also one of the remaining projects designed by Leonardo, or so the legend says. They were connected to the nearby lakes and used to transport the elusive black marble used while building parts of the Duomo. Nowadays some of the best restaurants and bars are located along those waterways. It’s better known as the Navigli district and the canals are the place to go for traditional Italian cuisine and aperitifs. You can visit a charming bar, grab a drink and you’ll have access to a buffet with some of the best pizza, plates of pasta, meat dishes and all kinds of little snacks, sort of like tapas in Spain. Of course you can also spend an evening at the opera in the world famous La Scala is another classic way to spend an evening in Milano.

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Rome city guide

Of all the amazing cities I’ve seen in my life, Rome is the one I keep coming back to. This effortless ancient monumentality merged with modern accents makes me feel right at home. You don’t need to visit museums or galleries: just walk around and take everything in. I spent almost a week in Rome and every single day started the same, I woke up early, took a shower and went out. My hotel was close to the Colosseum so I literally stepped out, had a coffee and bought something to snack on. I spent a few hours chilling around Forum Romanum: reading a book, listening to music, while it was still too early for tourist groups. Then I picked a direction and started walking. I also almost died a couple of times, underneath the seemingly small wheels of colourful Vespa’s. What a nightmare, Romans can’t drive for shit. Freak accidents aside, you walk around Rome and trip over ancient sights, what’s there around the corner? Oh, it’s the Trevi Fountain. Walk a bit further; who’s that guy on top of those stairs? Oh hi Marcus Aurelius, the emperor-philosopher. Visiting Rome is like having a pocket time-traveling device, ancient artefacts to the left, posh fashion shops to the right, the classic pizza here and modern fusion restaurants over there. I enjoyed spending some time by hanging around the Spanish Steps. I was told that agents are scouting the area for fashion model material. No one scouted me though; such bad luck. Let’s not forget about this city’s rich sex history, having multiple women in one household was nothing out of ordinary, many of those traditions are still well kept.

Trevi Fountain in Rome: world famous after the bathing scene in this fountain of the heroine Anita Ekberg in Fellini`s "Dolce Vita", you can follow in her footsteps for only 200 euros (which is the fine for such an unauthorized activity)

Roma is very easy to fall in love with, especially when you’re not tripping over other tourists. Do yourself a favour and pick a time of the year other than summer, when it’s not only crowded but also steaming hot. Some attractions are even closed during the hottest months. Moving around the Eternal City is very convenient; metro stations are spaced out perfectly between the most important areas. But to my opinion Rome it’s best to explore on foot, there aren’t that many stairs or hills so you don’t get overly tired. Plus you don’t want to miss all those narrow alleyways and tiny squares, gems.. Why do they even call it the Eternal City? Because it’s timeless, remains unchanged for centuries, sure it expands, but in essence, in its core, Rome is the same it was even before Christ. Think about the Colosseum being almost 2000 years old and let it sink. I was a witness to a discussion how Italians are worthless, bring nothing to the EU and it would be best if they left it. But people seem to forget that the Roman imperial ruins are still standing as a foundation of innumerable European cities.

Neptune Fountain in Piazza Navona in Rome

Piazza Navona in Rome: one of the outstanding examples of baroque in Rome, in ancient Roman times the Domitian stadium was located at this place, intended for athletic competitions

The real highlight of any trip to Rome is food. The original is incomparable to anything you get, even in best restaurants outside of Italy. This famous cuisine has always been very simple and filling. It was simple enough for poor people to work their lives around it and filling enough to enable the legions to march for thousands of kilometres. They’ve improved those dishes that consisted of a handful of ingredients for centuries, to the point of mastery. Simple, good quality stuff is always good, but there is a movement in Rome that tries to turn those staples into something different. Take Roman pizza, for example, it’s rectangular and often sold by weight, which already makes it different to other Italian kinds of pizza, But people are trying new things, unheard of things, like putting potatoes, figs, fresh cucumber on a pizza, or pizza in a cone. Visit Roscioli, a legendary bakery opened since the 18th century, famous for their pizza Bianca, with olive oil and a bit of salt as its only toppings. Or head to one of Gabriele Bonci’s pizzerias and try out some of those unorthodox toppings. Armando al Pantheon (https://www.armandoalpantheon.it/) at Salita dei Crescenzi, 31 is one of the go-to spots for a more traditional take on Roman cuisine. Campo di Fiori and Santa Maria Square are where both locals and tourists hang out during warm Italian evenings. That’s where you should go for drinks and food before a night out. Some people organize bar crawls, party busses and all that group events but I’d rather organically meet some new people while walking around the city on my own.

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