I remember reading how money and progress constantly started east first. At the beginning we had the ancient Asian civilizations and their science producing medicines that are still significant and widely recognized to this day. The same famous status was acquired by their art of war. The wave moved to Babylon, Egypt, Mediterranean empires, Europe and “took a ship” to the Americas, According to the theory it currently has made a stop at Silicon Valley. I suppose there’s a grain of truth in every mountain of bullshit. Take a look at Vienna; the wave of progress obviously stayed here for some time and gave birth to some forward-thinking individuals. Mozart, Schönberg, Haydn, Mahler, Schubert, Strauss, Brahms, Freud; just to mention a few. And let’s not forget Gustav Klimt. I’m actually drinking tea from a mug with his “The Kiss” reproduction on it, coincidence or not? If that crowd didn’t move humanity in the right direction at one point, I don’t know who did. But maybe this is also because Austrians are brilliant people when it comes to marketing their country. As Billy Wilder already put it: “They made the world believe that Hitler was a German and Beethoven an Austrian.” There are also other merits to visiting Vienna, like the fact that almost half of the cities’ entire area is green because the city council ensured that enough space is dedicated to parks.
Splendid baroque Schonbrunn palace situated in the Hietzing area, just 5 km away from Vienna
There’s something for everyone in Vienna or Wien, as the official name in German goes. Do you like churches? Go see the Stephansdom; the iconic gothic cathedral. Do you enjoy exploring medieval castles? Schloss Schönbrunn is right there, waiting for you. Are you a history enthusiast? Hofburg; the imperial seat of power, in the very centre of old Vienna is the place for you. Vienna is deeply rooted in traditions. Especially if you are a sweet-tooth you should have your coffee accompanied by a Sachertorte, a rich chocolate cake. It’s the most famous local or even national culinary specialty, after Wiener Schnitzel of course. Strudel is another Austrian icon, made with filo dough and usually stuffed with apples spiced up with a dash of cinnamon. Filo dough is just one example of how the Habsburg Empire and Viennese cuisine was influenced by the countries they’ve conquered. All those sweets and spending time in cafés are an essential part of the city’s culture; I think it’s great in the era of Starbucks and their soulless coffee establishments. Grab a book, load up your pipe, make you best Freud impression and sit down for an hour or two. Makes you think how many genius inventions and world-changing philosophies came to life over a glass of Arabica. Travel just outside of the city and visit some of the oldest European wineries. Also, don’t forget to sample the legendary Wiener Schnitzel. Always remember: the flatter and the bigger the piece on your plate: the better.
Karlskirche, the most outstanding baroque church in Vienna
Vienna is proud to host close to 15 million overnight stays every year; many of them visit to sample some of the local goodies. If you’re after nightlife or planning a stag night with your buddies then I’m afraid Vienna is not the best place. Bars and restaurant close early and the club scene is mediocre at best. It gets a bit livelier during the summer when spots along the city’s riverbanks open up. Vienna is not a city you visit to party. It’s a city where you can grow as a human being: a city of art of high culture. Ringstrasse during warm summer nights is breath taking, beautifully illuminated and the open-air classical music concerts and performances just add to the unforgettable atmosphere. The Vienna State Opera is a temple devoted to music, one of a kind and it reminds you why the city is known as “the City of Music”. Imagine sneaking in and witnessing some genius working on his magnum opus within these walls.
The downside to this amazing city is that there’s just too much to see. You could spend a week at the Hofburg and you’d still miss half of what it has to offer. It currently serves as the Austrian White House, but the imperial chic and numerous artefacts are on display there to remind you how powerful this dynasty once was. Add a few more days if you want to explore the Hofburg National Library, secret bookshelf passages and ancient occult manuscripts included. The gardens are also a thing of beauty, huge as well and easy to get lost in.
I have two friends living in Lisbon; both of them went there to study, thanks to the Erasmus initiative and stayed for good. They kept inviting me over so I bit the bullet and bought a cheap plane ticket. I arrived, had a quick smoke and surprise, surprise: the friend that promised I could stay at her place- overslept and couldn’t pick me up. I booked a room in hotel near Praça da Figueira and was within a walking distance from everything worth seeing, plus a metro station just around the corner. The other friend still kept me company so I wasn’t completely abandoned. I had my breakfasts around Praça do Comércio, overlooking the river and went exploring. Lisbon’s hilly topography is a pain in the ass if you’re out of shape. Even if you’re not planning to walk all that much comfortable shoes are a must. It was love at first sight and the city went under my skin very rapidly. I never expected the city would have so many interesting landmarks. Of course I knew about the São Jorge Castle, the Belém district with its World Heritage sites: Belém Tower and Mosteiro dos Jerónimos (Jerónimos Monastery). But there is so much more too see such as the picturesque and vibrant Alfama district, an old unique zoo, and the rather new Lisbon Oceanarium; a mind-blowing indoor aquarium.
The Belém Tower (Torre de Belém), built in the early 16th century in the exotic Manuelino style in honor of Vasco da Gama's discovery of the sea route to India, became a symbol of Lisbon and is considered one of the seven wonders of Portugal
But to my opinion the biggest attraction of Lisboa lies in the city’s inhabitants. I have travelled around many places in Europe and my experience is that the Portuguese belong to the kindest people you will come across. They seem to stay calm under all circumstances and hardly get annoyed, even when tourists behave rude and impatient tourists. There is a saying that Portuguese have a softer soul than the Spanish and that this is symbolized also by the fact that in the Portuguese version of bull fighting they do not kill the bull. For what’s worth but the difference in volume level with their Eastern neighbours is remarkable and they produce less decibel in public sphere compared to Spanish for sure. A Lisbon Uber driver told me that the Portuguese are just humble and modest because they do not have much to brag about, except for the weather maybe. To my humble opinion this explanation shows how the Portuguese underestimate the beauty and attractiveness of their country. There is so much more to discover than the traditional tourist staple Algarve in the South. You have lush forests and canyons in the North and impressive capes in the West. You can explore marvellous old cities such as Porto, the pride of Northern Portugal, and Coimbra, the charming university city in the middle of the country.
And then there is Lisbon, which is experiencing a tremendous growth in its visitors over the last decade. It is booming and hip and becoming the new Barcelona or Berlin: an absolute top-pick for a city trip in Europe. The Spanish newspaper El Pais published an interesting feature article (https://elpais.com/elpais/2015/04/10/inenglish/1428681068_606447.html) about Lisbon’s growing popularity. One of the explanations is that the local authorities control a lot of real estate in the city centre and can prevent the prices to rise sky-high. By doing so local business and creative ideas can flourish. Lisbon has almost 3,000 hours of sunshine per year, which makes it one of Europe’s sunniest cities and the light of the sky over Lisbon has been praised by many artists. Especially in the early morning or evening when the sun is at its lowest the light is magnificent. Even scientists investigated it and concluded it is probably caused by the reflection of the surrounding water and the pastel-coloured houses, which deliver a special golden glow over the city. Even the singer Madonna fell in love with Portugal and Lisbon and decided to move over Although the latest news is that due to a dispute with local authorities in the nearby Sintra over the shooting of a video clip the mutual love has cooled down and she left the country again.
There is also a downside to Lisbon’s increasing popularity. The waiting lines in front of the museums and monuments can become unbearable long at certain peak times. The Belém Tower (Torre de Belém) is a must-see but due to its narrow staircases not more than around 120 people are allowed to be inside at the same time. And even with these numbers it can a claustrophobic experience. The last time I visited the tower I had to queue for almost 1.5 hour. But do not let that prevent you from visiting this 16th-century fortress in the typical Portuguese Manueline gothic style that functioned as a ceremonial gateway to Lisbon. It was built during the height of the Portuguese Renaissance when Portugal was at the top of its power. The country ruled the World Seas with navigators such as Vasco da Gama who discovered the shortest sea rout to India and Pedro Álvares Cabral, the first European who set foot on Brazil soil. The view over the Tagus river and the Ponte 25 de Abril (25th April Bridge), connecting Lisbon with the municipality of Almada on the left (south) bank of the river are stunning. The gracious suspension bridge is more or less a copy of the Golden Gate in San Francisco. On the south bank of the Tagus you will find another copy of a world famous monument. Chisto Rei (The Sanctuary of Christ the King) is a huge statue of Jesus inspired by the Christ the Redeemer statue of Rio de Janeiro.
When being in the Belém district you cannot afford to miss the Jerónimos Monastery or Hieronymites Monastery, also built in the Manueline gothic style. There you will also find the tombs of Vasco da Gama and the poet Luís de Camões, whose national significance cannot be overestimated. Portugal Day, a national holiday celebrated on June 10th, commemorates the death on June 10, 1580 of the national literary icon who is described as the Portuguese Shakespeare. Talking about national icons: you might also like to try a pastel de nata, the renowned Portuguese egg tart pastry dusted with cinnamon. The most famous place to get them would be at the Pastéis de Belém. This bakery café near the Jerónimos Monaster, claims to still use the original recipe of the monks who invented the pastry. Do not make the same mistake as almost all tourists who are waiting in an endless long line, which is for the take-away. Much better go inside. It’s a beautiful venue where you can have a coffee on the side of your delicious egg tart and admire also the Portuguese azulejos, the painted tin-glazed ceramic tiles. And most important you will be served much quicker than the tourists queuing for the take-away.
Believe a regular Lisbon traveller: a pleasant visit to this city is all about avoiding waiting lines. The same thing goes for the tramline 28 going to the atmospherically Alfama district. It is a beautiful ride but every tourist nowadays has it on the bucket list, so also here you have to calculate in a lot of waiting time before you can catch the tram. So better hop on the special red tourist tram (without a number). It might not be the real thing but it rides the same route, has almost never a waiting line and you will avoid the pickpockets whose favourite working domain is tram 28. The same work-around approach I would strongly advise you when you want to take the Santa Justa elevator, that connects the Baixa neighbourhood with the Bairro Alto district. The Elevador de Santa Justa stands 45 meters tall and is constructed in the same style as the design of the renowned French architect Gustav Eiffel. Go up first by foot or take an Uber taxi when you are too lazy to so you do not have to wait an hour in the line. Use the elevator only for going down because then the lines will much shorter. But don’t do that before you have visited the Carmo Convent near the upper part of the elevator. The roofless ruins of this gothic church are evocative reminders of the 1755 earthquake, which devastated the whole city and had an estimated death toll of between 50,000 and 100,000 people. Nowadays it is an archaeological museum with interesting artefacts including two morbid mummies and an ancient Egyptian sarcophagus. In a definitely more lively shape are the playful house cats that charm all visitors.
When you have the time you definitely need to visit also the Oceanário de Lisboa, the Lisbon Oceanarium. This largest indoor aquarium in Europe has definitely the aw-factor. You can see the richness and beauty of sea live from different oceans in the world and it cannot be better positioned than in a country, which has such great maritime history as Portugal has. The Oceanarium is located in the Parque das Nações (the Nations Park), where the Expo '98 took place. I am really intrigued by those former World Expo grounds. These areas need to re-invent themselves once the exhibition is over, the visitors are gone and the spotlights have dimmed. That is challenge and only a few venues manage to find a new destination and stay alive and kicking. The Parque das Nações is definitely such a place. There you will find a lush park that offers a lot of shades during hot summer days, great playgrounds for children and you can do a work out at the Tagus river bank. When you will take the Telecabine Lisboa (cable car) from the station at the Oceanarium you have a great view on the Vasco da Gama Bridge. The cable-stayed bridge spans the Tagus River and is with its 12 kilometres the second largest bridge of Europe. The Nations Park is also a wealthy area with luxurious hotels such as the Myriad skyscraper hotel and greatly designed penthouses bought by rich locals, Chinese and Russian businessmen.
Lisbon is also a perfect base for day trips to other magnificent places nearby. Take a peak outside of the city and you’ll discover stunning beaches and ancient woods, that is to say when the forest fires, which are constant plague to Portugal haven’t destroyed them. Many pay a visit to the fashionable Estoril, a resort that has glorious sandy beaches and houses the largest casino of the Iberian Peninsula. Nearby you will also find lovely fishing town of Cascais, which has laid-back beach bars all over the place. When you would have even more free time, rent a car, or hop on a train or bus to go more up north. My personal pick for staying somewhere at the coastline near Lisbon would be Ericeira: the hangout of the local and foreign surf dudes. The waves are pretty amazing and there is always a breeze, so the temperature is pleasant during daytime while in Lisbon the heat can be devastating. During evenings it can be even a bit chilly so be sure to pack a sweater. I just love the simple and pure atmosphere of Ericeira. It has a bit of alternative vibe and there are no set menu restaurants and other tourist traps. Actually you cannot really go wrong with restaurants in Ericeira. Many have fresh fish and sea fruit on the menu and genuine local dishes including the obligatory bacalhau (codfish). Locals frequent many restaurants, which is always a good sign. Some of my personal favourites are Pinta (awesome burgers including fish and vegetarian variants), Patio dos Marialvas (great fish dishes) and Pizzeria Pão D'Alho (super thin and crispy pizza bases). When you want to go healthy try Green is Good (GiG). This place, which is also operating as a hostel offers very creative vegetarian dishes and delicious homemade smoothies and juices. It proves that healthy and tasty can go very well hand in hand. Being a “flexitarier” I like to eat meatless so now and then but I usually dislike the artificial and pretentious atmosphere of these organic food places. GiG feels genuine and manages to stay away from this snobby attitude. And on top of it all: the waitresses are super cute and friendly.
Another of the seven wonders of Portugal is the Pena Palace (Palácio da Pena), located 23 km from Lisbon in the city of Sintra, built in 1854 according to the plan of King Ferdinand II on the site of the destroyed monastery; the colourful design of the romantic palace features a bizarre eclectic mix of styles, making it look like an enchanted fairytale castle
From Ericeira and also Lisbon the city of Mafra can be easily reached as well. It is famous for its National Palace, which was proclaimed a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2019. The monumental baroque complex is a royal palace, a basilica and a convent, all in one. Its magnificent library is supposed to be one of the most beautiful in the world. It even hosts bats, which come out at night and keep the place free from insects: an interesting Portuguese way of natural pest control. The most popular venue for a day trip from Lisbon is without any doubts Sintra, a picturesque town, which can be easily reached by train or bus from Lisbon. It could be rewarding to buy the Lisboa Card. Not only it offers you free entrance to the most important museums and monuments in Lisbon such as Belém Tower and the Jerónimos Monastery. It will also entitle you to use public transport for free and you can take a train to Sintra and other places. One of the Sintra highlights is the Palacio Nacional de Sintra. The white palace in Moorish style looks quite sober from the outside. But don’t judge a book by its cover because its interiors have very lush decorations and rooms in gothic and other styles. The main touristic attractions however are located on the green hills overlooking Sintra. The remaining ruins of the Moorish castle (Castelo dos Mouros) offer brilliant views over the city and the environment. And the biggest tourist staple of Sintra and probably even of entire Portugal is the Palacio de Pena. This palace that was used as a country residence for the royal family is located on a hill next to the Moorish castle. Its playful design and many colours make the Pena Palace one of a kind in the world. It looks like it comes straight from a fairy tale or Disney cartoon and should not be missed when you have the time for a get-away from Lisbon. In Sintra you can be dazzled by the overwhelming transport options you have to see all the tourist staples. There are so many different companies operating busses and other vehicles that it becomes confusing. It's very typical for the tourist industry in Portugal, which lacks coordination and can transform into a glorious mess sometimes. Also the narrow and steep roads in Sintra, which are not designed for so much traffic, can contribute to the local chaos. When being in Sintra you can also visit Cabo da Roca, the westernmost point of continental Europe. There you can do as the millions of other tourists did before you and take a selfie on the edge of Europe. Just be careful: your camera/phone might survive falling 150 meters down but I am not so sure about you.
That and so much more you can do during the day, but what about the evenings? Everyone goes bar crawling around Bairro Alto or visits renowned clubs such as Lux or the Urban Beach to dance the night away. Sitting at the riverside to chill with a bottle of cheap wine is also a popular activity of the locals. You will be surprised to find out how buzzing and vibrant this city is: there’s something for everyone in Lisboa. The city is very safe but sometimes shady people out on the streets, who will offer you free drug samples, might bother you. At all costs avoid doing business with them, unless you do not mind getting mugged. Last but not least: indulge yourself in Lisbon’s amazing restaurants scene. The Portuguese cuisine is a bit underestimated to my opinion. Yes, compared to the Spanish and other Mediterranean countries the local dishes might be a bit sober. It is true that many dishes come with boiled potatoes and steamed vegetables. It’s maybe simple but also pure and definitely healthier than the usual French fries and some obligatory salad leaves. Thanks to the rich colonial history of Portugal you will find plenty of Latin American and African restaurants in downtown Lisbon. Try some genuine food from Mozambique or Angola for instance. Believe me: there is so much more to discover than codfish. And besides there is a saying in Portugal that are more than 365 recipes to prepare bacalhau; so every day of the year you can have your cod a different way.
Everyone heard about Mallorca, whether they wanted to or not. The hit song by Loft from the 90s has been covered and remixed more times that I could count. I remember those years, that island felt as unreachable as the moon, reserved only for the rich and famous. Palma de Mallorca was somewhere in the background. Most people didn’t even know it’s the capital; people didn’t even bother leaving their hotel enclosures. Even my friends, relatively young people, went to Mallorca for a week and didn’t even bother checking out the capital. Why would they? They had sandy beaches as far as the eye could see, drinks and the Mediterranean just outside of their lodging. The locals are rather annoyed by the tourists, sarcastically saying that Palma de Mallorca became a district of Berlin and the island is now the 17th German province. Everything has been “taken over” and “Germanized” so the eventually unwanted guests could feel right at home. People complain about “older European men” getting drunk and strolling around Palma de Mallorca’s restaurants and hotels shirtless.
The Castle of Capdepera, a walled fortress in the municipality of Capdepera, about 1 hour drive away from Palma de Mallorca, was meant to protect the residents from pirates and other attackers; each year the village commemorates the legend that Our Lady of Hope sent a fog to scare off some invaders
Nowadays it’s not just Germans but also the British that made it their favourite summer destination. I mean…it’s relatable, let’s face it; Mallorca is a victim of its own success. The Spanish government had a plan to make this island the premier tourist destination and they succeeded. While it was exclusive at first, people smelled the islands potentials as cash cow. All they had to do was open up a little and Mallorca became more accessible. So accessible that it is currently a retirement destination for Brits and Germans. It’s a recurring theme in these sorts of cities, people complain about tourists but eventually realize that these 10 million people that visit every year, fill their pockets with fat cash. There are obvious benefits to that kind of an influx. Palma de Mallorca became a shining pearl and a new focal point of the island. People just recently began to experience this ancient and awe-inspiring capital.
Palma was established as a Roman settlement over 100 years BC and went through periods of numerous occupants, like most cities in the region. Romans, Muslims, Christians, all of those cultures left some kind of heritage behind. The capital could be mistaken for Naples if it wasn’t for the Moorish details on stunning buildings. Narrow passages and enchanting courtyard cafés are the trademarks of Palma de Mallorca. The city is rather small. You can witness most of its sights in one day and it’s the perfect destination for a weekend trip if you allow yourself a bit more time to stroll around. Bellver Castle is the first thing I’d recommend to curious newcomers. It’s just on the outskirts of the capital and you can take a bus, or even better, rent a bike. There are only a few circular (“cake”) castles in Europe and Castell de Bellver is one of them. It used to be a prison at one point, but now it serves as the official History Museum of Mallorca. Climb one of its towers for the best view of Palma and let those "Instagram likes” flow in.
The most eye-catching building of Palma de Mallorca is La Seu, officiallly named The Cathedral of Santa Maria of Palma; a stunning cathedral in Catalan Gothic style erected on the site of a former Moorish mosque
Royal Palace of La Almudaina (Palacio Real de La Almudaina) is another iconic structure on the island and a mine of fame on social media. It has been the royal residence since the early 13th century. It’s a typical alcázar; a kind of a cross between a palace and a fortress, originally built by the Moors and basically a Muslim equivalent of a European castle. One thing I did not expect to find on this small island is the Cathedral of Santa Maria of Palma, which is actually the second highest Gothic cathedral in the world. It’s enormous, but not in that pompous-church-like manner, it’s ironically very humble in its pathos.
Palma de Mallorca is a bit boring when it comes to nightlife, to be completely honest. People usually have dinner around the Old Town before heading out to the port or beach area to party. It’s more of a foodie, cocktail bar kind of nightlife. There are clubs like Kaelum or Tito’s (https://titosmallorca.com/) around the beach promenade area, but if you want to get down and dirty you take a cab to Magaluf, just outside of Palma. Known as “Shag-aluf” by the British community. It’s where the kids sneak off to when their parents are standing in line for another serving of currywurst. The weekend lasts from Monday till Sunday there. It’s a never-ending party but it can get a bit obnoxious with all the drunken kids, occasional fights and overall chaos. It can eventually get very nasty with even fatalities. In 2018, a Dutch tourist died after being beaten up by a group of five youths near Palma de Mallorca. In the summer of 2021, a young Dutchman was attacked out of nowhere by a group of nine countrymen in Playa de Palma during a night out. He was kicked several times in the head until he passed out. A few days later he died in the local hospital from fatal injuries. Very understandable the incident caused a shock and huge scandal in my country. Brutally murdered in the street by a group of compatriots during your summer vacation. It's the ultimate horror.
Marbella is famous for being a playground for the rich at the Spanish Costa del Sol in the Andalusia region. Crowded with B-class movie actors and “the new rich” Marbella is not much more than a resort, a pretty face with nothing between the ears. That’s okay; some people like to spend their time away from home, sunbathing on a beach while sipping on a Piña colada, or playing golf, or clubbing during warm Mediterranean nights. La Milla de Oro (The Golden Mile) is the focal promenade of the area. The best clubs, boutiques, restaurants and out-of-this-world villas are located on that strip reaching west to Puerto Banús where the real money is docked at a yacht marina. That’s pretty much it: yachts and villas, cocaine and caviar.
Puerto-Banús, locally referred to as just "Banus": the playground of the international jetset in Marbella and filled to the brim with multi-milion dollar yachts
The Iglesia de la Encarnación (Church of the Incarnation) built over an old Moorish mosque in Marbella; as everywhere in the South of Spain after the reconquest by the Catholic Kings most mosques (Mezquitas) were destroyed or converted into Christian churches
If you feel like checking out some museums, or historical sights you have obviously arrived in the wrong city. Sure there is the charming Old Town and the Bonsai Museum, but I’m not sure whether it’s funny or just plain sad. Remember that where there’s money, there’s also crime and that’s another thing Marbella is infamous for. The Costa del Sol in general is a strategic area when it comes to smuggling drugs into Europe. Russian, Irish and English gangs don’t even try to hide that they’re fighting for control.
Madrid stands for everything a modern European capital should be about: a rich cultural core with an entertaining nightlife outlining. It was built in 854, as one of many Muslim outposts that were supposed to protect the Iberian Peninsula from the Christian re-conquest. It was called Magerit back then, derived from majira, which means “water source” in Arabic. During the early 14th century Madrid began to attract the wealthy and powerful of Spain, because of its localization in the centre of the peninsula, but it was a pretty grim sight back then. People heard that the royal family was slowly settling there, so they followed the money, just to arrive to a huge mess. A hundred years later, Madrid started looking like a proper city, but only from a distance, towers and walls were built from dirt and mud, as was most of the housing. It’s funny how one of the worlds’ most impressive capitals started out as someone’s sandbox playground. 1561 was the year that this contrast of makeshift huts, palaces, noble villas and churches finally claimed the title of the First City of Spain. It took Madrid some five hundred years to become one of the most sophisticated and fun places on earth.
At Madrid's most famous streets Calle de Alcala and Gran Via you can feel the pulsing heartbeat of the city 24 hours per day
Gran Via is Madrid’s main street and the lifeline of the Spanish capital. Basically everything there is to see and experience in Madrid is on either side of that route. Callao Square (Plaza del Callao) is located, more or less, in the middle of that street, it’s Madrid’s own Times Square, I’m not a fan of all the billboards and advertisements but that’s the world we live in. There are shopping malls, cinemas, restaurants and cafes, but nothing special or worth mentioning. The entire area is infested with petty thieves and scammers so watch your back. Puerta del Sol is an another central and famous square, located at one of the former city gates. There you will see the statue El Oso y El Madrono (the Bear and the Strawberry Tree), the city’s symbol depicting a bear eating from a strawberry tree. I have to admit I didn’t even know that strawberries grew on trees. The square also contains the famous clock whose bells mark the traditional eating of the Twelve Grapes and the beginning of a new year. The San Miguel market is about 10 minutes away, an almost century-old market that recently got remodelled into one of the most hip spots in town. It’s this worldwide trend where markets aren’t just areas where you can buy fresh meats and produce, but also social centres where you can meet friends for spectacular food and drinks.
In Madrid almost everything is royal; even the main local football club Real Madrid. The Royal Palace is usually the most important part of any trip to Madrid. It’s among the largest in Europe and has been home to the royal family since the 9th century. There are 3500 rooms in that building. Just imagine the upkeep costs of something like that. It’s great from the outside but even better from the inside. Keep in mind that you’ll have to stand in lines for hours, especially during the summer. Personally I’d rather spend that time in the Sabatini Gardens, right next to the palace, great spot for a picnic. The Spanish like to take their time with everything, that no-rush, siesta mentality reflects in everything they do, particularly in building stuff. Take the Almudena Cathedral (Catedral de la Almudena) for example. They started the construction in the 16th century and finished in 1993. A period of 300 years: that’s a lot of siestas. While there you could enjoy an afternoon nap yourself when you would find a quiet place on the upper floor, overlooking the city.
Spectacular modern architecture at Plaza de Castilla, the big roundabout in Northern Madrid; the crooked KIO Towers (Torres KIO), also known as the Gate of Europe towers, make a great contrast with the golden obelisk Obelisco de Caja Madrid
Madrid is famous for its arts galleries. The Golden Three, also known as the Art Triangle or the Golden Triangle of Art assembly the three most interesting ones. The Thyssen Gallery boasts one of the most impressive collections in the word with pieces painted by Van Gogh, Rembrandt and many others. Reina Sofia is a piece of art by itself and Picasso’s masterpieces are just an addition. The Prado (officially: Museo Nacional del Prado) is the third and final stop on this art pilgrimage with a hoard so enormous they can only show a small percentage of it, even though the building itself is gigantic. Malasaña is the famous nightlife district where you go when you want to meet the locals and experience the culture from within. It is boasting bars, pubs, cafés, shops and best street food in town without breaking your budget. Sign up for one of those pub crawls advertised online, it’s a great way to meet some hot Spanish chicks, get wasted on free drinks while munching on those delicious tapas. Don’t miss out on flamenco, the unique Spanish dance and art form. Book for example a table at Corral dela Moreria (https://www.corraldelamoreria.com/). It’s one of the most recognized tablaos (venues dedicated to flamenco performances) in Madrid, where you can enjoy a very authentic show.
Three kinds of people visit Barcelona: architecture geeks, football fans and LSD enthusiasts. Barcelona is slightly smaller than Madrid and one of the most vibrant harbours on the Mediterranean. The capital of Catalonia is a city of artists and procrastinators. Everything takes years to finish, everyone is always late and slightly pissed off. The Gothic Quarter (Barri Gòtic in Catalan) is the pulsing heartbeat of Barcelona: small, claustrophobic alleys and a huge cathedral. The Cathedral of the Holy Cross and Saint Eulalia (Catalan: Catedral de la Santa Creu i Santa Eulàlia) took three centuries to build, but it was clearly worth the effort. There’s even a Well of Geese in its courtyard; those feathered little beasts caused many tourists an injury. Getting pecked by poultry isn’t even the weirdest thing about Barcelona. That title belongs to Gaudi’s mind-bending architecture. He was a peculiar architect, perhaps more of a sculptor, some of the buildings he designed look like they were born during a heavily drug-induced trip. Colourful, distorted, even warped, those pieces of Art Nouveau are like three-dimensional Dali paintings. Take La Sagrada Familia for example, Gaudi’s magnum opus reminds me of a fractal, ever-changing, evolving, not even close to being finished. That kind of style began with Colonia Güell, a church and a crypt that the architect built for the Güell family, one of his biggest clients. Park Güell is another project he did for them, a park with corridors that remind of an inside of snake coil. Gaudi was a master architect. Casa Milà, popularly known as La Pedrera or "The stone quarry" is one of his more toned down projects. Yet it still characteristic and recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage site, like most of his work. He’s probably rolling in his grave seeing what kind of modern atrocities are being built in his beloved Barcelona.
Casa Batllo, also called Casa dels ossos (House of Bones) because of its skeletal structure, might not be a famous as Casa Mila, Park Guell or La Sagrada Familia but it is certainly one of Antoni Gaudi's masterpieces
Camp Nou is such a thing; but who cares, football is the most popular sports in the world and it sells. FC Barcelona, often referred to as Barça, is known as one of the best clubs in the world. It’s for good reasons that its motto is Més que un club (More than a club). Such an iconic club deserves a cutting-edge stadium. Just like their ball-kicking experts deserve those millions of euros annually. FC Barcelona went through some financial hard times recently though and budget cuts were inevitable. In 2021 the club had to let go of its biggest star Lionel Messi, whose latest salary was variously reported as being between €70 million and €90 million per season. The Argentinian spent his entire professional career with the Catalan club and he broke into tears when he announced his farewell on a press conference. After playing more than 20 years in Barcelona he went to Paris to sign a very lucrative contract with PSG. Barça has a long history of fantastic players, especially spectacular Latin American strikers such as Romario, Ronaldo, Ronaldinho and Suárez. But Messi will certainly be remembered as the greatest ever who played in the iconic blue and red jerseys. Well as a Dutchman, I maybe better say: together with the late legend Johan Cruijff, who didn’t have his roots in the favelas of a Latin city but a working-class district in Amsterdam. He was called El Salvador (The Saviour) and celebrated triumphs at the club in the 1970s. Ball-kickers are the new gladiators and the best ones deserve the largest arena in Europe. Camp Nou has the capacity to house almost a 100,000 fans of these modern-age gods. Many fans are willing to pay heaps of money to experience the sweaty lockers where their idols touch each other following a won battle. The illuminate of ball kicking organize tours, open shops where you can buy artefacts, such as t-shirts and scarfs and museums where you witness the history of this phenomenon. You can go wild on smelling rugged balls from ancient times and even pray in an on-site church. Strange times we live in.
Barcelona is the so-called second city of Spain, I’m not sure why because it appears to be much more popular than Madrid. But most of all: its inhabitants consider themselves as Catalans and not Spanish. The Catalan independence referendum of 2017, also known by the numeronym 1-O (for "1 October") was declared illegal and suspended by the Constitutional Court of Spain after a request from the Spanish government. The follow-up events including the arrestment of nationalistic leaders increased the tensions and the feelings of misunderstanding and the cultural gap between Spain and the autonomous region of Catalonia seem to be deeper and bigger than ever before. One thing is for sure: 2017 was a hectic and troublesome year after La Rambla (Las Ramblas), the city’s life vain, was hit by a horrible terror attack in spring of the same year. But it appears that all these troubles only gave a boost to the city’s radiant energy and joy for life. The city is compact and densely populated, its’ chaotic Art Nouveau architecture has always reminded me of an ant mound. Tourism and the number of foreigners moving to Barcelona have been steadily increasing the past few years. It has reached the point that natives have started seriously complaining about it. The mess and dirt tourists leave behind in the public area and the increasing prices of food and accommodation are a pain in the ass for many locals. Locals also say the street noise is beyond reasonable limits. When Spanish who have quite a reputation for being loud themselves start to complaint about noise, it means really something.
The Magic Fountain of Montjuic is located below the Palau Nacional on the Montjuic mountain, be sure to check the actual time tables when you want to be in time for the colourful light shows accompanied by music
One thing is for sure: Barcelona a happening place you will not easily have a dull moment. An ex-girlfriend of mine used to live with her friends in Barcelona during her student exchange days. She claims those days were the best times of her life and Barcelona the best city she ever visited. After her return she never stopped telling funny memoires from her time in Barcelona. Her stories included drinking wine and stealing underwear from random people’s hanged laundry in the middle of the night. And there was also an anecdote about a guy that fell from a second-floor balcony, right next to their table, when they were having their morning coffee in one of the cafés. But I don’t remember that one so well so don’t quote me on that. From beautiful beaches and stealing panties to world-class football and museums dedicated to Picasso and Miró: everyone will find someone they enjoy doing in Barcelona. What I enjoy the most in Barcelona is strolling in Barri Gòtic, with its tiny streets full of laundry hanging over balconies where the sun will not come through. Usually I will end up in a basement bar on a quiet square (my personal favourite is the one next to Basilica of Santa Maria del Mar), where I will order a big plate of wonderful Bask tapas and lovely local wine or chilled beer on the side.
Geneva is one of the most sophisticated and expensive cities in the world and located at Europe’s largest Alpine lake: Lake Geneva (or Lac Léman in French). In an official multi-lingual county like Switzerland Geneva goes under many names: Genève in French, Genf in German and Ginevra in Italian. The city aims for the number 1 spot at many other things. Best chocolate, boutiques, restaurants, jewellers, biggest banks, fastest cars, the most beautiful women; the list goes on and on. If I were to visit Geneva again, I would go during winter season. I fondly remember all the action around the lake, sitting around in sauna bars, drinking and chatting till morning hours. For all you explorers and geeks out there, Geneva has even more to offer. Grab a free bike at one of many bike rental stations and move out. All you need is an ID and a €20 deposit. CERN European Organization for Nuclear Research is a solid first spot to check out for all you nerds out there. A simpleton such as myself doesn’t even begin to understand what they’re doing there. But I know it looks like Tony Stark’s workshop, plus they pretty much invented the World Wide Web there.
The Saint Pierre Cathedral is over 850 years old and Geneva's most important church, it became world famous as the home church of John Calvin, one of the main leaders of the Protestant Reformation
Geneva’s history is long and interesting. The city started out long before Christ, as a small settlement defending itself against Celtic tribes, later on becoming a part of the Roman Empire. There was even a cataclysmic tsunami that obliterated most of the areas surrounding the lake. A tsunami! Who would’ve thought? The most important events took place around the 16th century, sparked by John Calvin. Some people even say that the United States wouldn't exist without Geneva, although I think it's a bit of an exaggeration. Calvin aimed to reform the church; he interpreted the Bible in a different way and aimed to teach people his ways. That maybe there was an approach different from the mainstream was possible. He didn’t only talk about God, he tried to reform the society, taught people how important a family is as a fundament of society. Back then it wasn’t so obvious that you need to take good care of your children, invest in their education, they didn’t even think that girls needed how to read. He was adamant about how hard, honest work was a form of prayer, or how banks should stop leeching off common folk.
The school that Calvin founded in 1559 is actually still operational in Geneva and functions as a college to this day. You could say that those principles still hold up and greatly affected the city’s development and its legendary prosperity. “God used Geneva to change the world”, I don’t really buy that but I do understand revolution and persecution that those so-called heretics had to experience. And so Geneva became a safe haven: a refuge for people who understood spirituality in a different way. Let’s not kid ourselves; those people were intellectuals, artisans from all over the world and they transformed the city into what it represents today. That multi-nationality is one the city’s greatest features; two out of three citizens come from abroad. Bearing this in mind Geneva becoming one of the headquarters of the United Nations and the Red Cross was a natural step forward.
The more than 1000 years old Chillon Castle at Lake Geneva, close to the city of Montreux, is the most visited historic building in Switzerland and is a great destination for an excursion when staying in Geneva
Geneva features some really interesting museums like the Museum of Art and History (Musée d’Art et d’Histoire) or the Patek Philippe Museum, which houses centuries of watchmaking history under its roof. Geneva's most famous landmark is undoubtedly the Jet d’Eau, the huge fountain on Lake Geneva. Often used as a symbol of the city, it is probably the most famous fountain in the world after the Trevi Fountain in Rome. The picturesque Old Town is also a popular tourist spot. The historic city centre is the place to go if you’re looking for exclusive shops and boutiques. Just don’t forget to take your credit cards along. There’s also the mesmerizing gothic Cathédrale St-Pierre (St. Pierre Cathedral) if you are up to some contemplative moments.
Pâquis is Geneva’s main nightlife district, packed with bars and clubs, always crowded during the week and even more so during the weekends. Try getting into Java (https://www.javaclub.ch/) at Quai du Mont-Blanc 19. It’s the hottest spot in town, but €33 for a beer is probably a bit too much for ordinary people as us. You need to walk that fine line between pre-drinks and still being sober enough to get in. Bains des Pâquis, the popular public bathhouses on a pier in Lake Geneva transform into saunas during winter. So in case you would need to recover after a long night of partying you can take a bath in the beautiful lake during summer or sweat it out in saunas during the winter season. Alternatively you could watch the locals messing around with traditional Swiss wrestling.
Bern doesn’t have that big city, capital vibe, especially compared to a bustling city like Zürich. On the contrary: for a capital it’s remarkable quiet and nightlife is practically non-existent. People are calm, happy, and live in true bliss. Bern is a fairy-tale town: charming and stuck in time with its cobblestone alleys, medieval squares and stone bridges. I like the on-going bear (Bär in German) theme in Bern. There is a bear park (https://www.tierpark-bern.ch/) on the right bank of the Aare River, where the old bear pits used to be. Bears are actually everywhere: on statutes, walls of buildings, fountains and even on the Zytglogge, Bern’s famous Clock Tower. Situated on a gateway to The Old Town, which by itself is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the 15th-century astronomical clock is a masterpiece of Swiss watchmaking.
Zytglogge: the medieval tower with its world-famous astronomical clock was built in the early 13th century and is Bern's oldest monument and most famous symbol
That precision is one of many things that Switzerland can be proud of and crystal clear water is another one. Streams of Alpine water reach Aare: the river that flows through Bern. People jump straight into it from bridges and let the river carry them for a while and climb up via one of many exits. I guess it is pretty handy when the traffic is slow. People walking around in Speedos, carrying a raft around the Old Town is not an uncommon sight in Bern. Bern Historical Museum (https://www.bhm.ch/) at Helvetiaplatz 5 is a staple for many tourists. Being the second largest in whole Switzerland, the museum houses historical exhibitions, art and a whole section about Albert Einstein. The famous physicist is an important figure in Bern. He discovered his E = mc2 formula in a small flat on Kramgasse street.
When your travel schedule would allow I would certainly recommend you to plan some day trips from Bern. Use the Swiss Federal Railways because travelling by train through Switzerland is truly magic. And best of all, thanks to Swiss precision: they depart and arrive in time Even if you’re not the most active type of a tourist, you can still enjoy a train ride through woodlands and mountain tunnels. It’s by far the best way to travel around Switzerland. A 4-day travel pass will cost you around €240 and will cover all the means of transportation around the country. Four days is enough to travel and experience the most iconic Swiss destinations, such as Geneva, Lucerne, Montreux and of course Zürich, the most vibrant and cosmopolitan city of Switzerland. If you would have enough time, you could even travel to the warm southern regions of Switzerland. Also close to the Italian border you will find nice cities such as Lugano and Locarno. Everywhere fantastic lakes and breath-taking mountain landscapes will amaze you. Switzerland is a beautiful country and one of the first regions in the world to benefit from winter tourism. Imagine the times when people with real passion and very limited equipment conquered the Alpine mountains for the first time in history.
Switzerland is renowned for its traditions and magnificant landscapes and also Bern's environment is great for exploring the beautiful nature and historical landmarks
You might not always guess it from the face of the average Swiss person but people in Bern and other Swiss cities belong to the happiest people in the world. Switzerland, according to statistics, is the best place on earth to live in. Even the average life expectancy is much higher than in other countries. When people think about Switzerland it’s usually all about skiing, chocolate and Swiss knives. But what really makes it so great? Honesty and attention to detail: it makes sense when you realize that only 30% of the entire countries’ area is inhabited. Switzerland is one of the smallest pieces of land in Europe. When you take the Alps into account 8 million people are living on the Swiss Plateau. Every little thing is precious, not to mention that such a small number of citizens is much easier to govern and care for. This curious, petite country is the only direct democracy left in the world, just like it was in ancient Greece. That means that the population votes on everything directly, while most of us have our “representatives” that do whatever they want after they get elected. I even start to think that representative democracy is the reason why everyone hates politicians nowadays.
Zürich permanently ranks in international comparative studies as being one of the most pleasant cities to live in on earth, sends mixed signals. It’s one part Berlin with its post-industrial, rough architecture and one part Google HQ, all hip with employees playing table tennis during lunch breaks. Many people think Zürich is the capital of Switzerland but that title went to Bern after a compromise between the German and French speaking communities when they had to choose the national capital. But for sure Zürich is the largest city of the country and a main hub for business and international banking. With only 400,000 inhabitants including many expats and young people from all over the world the city is much smaller than it feels.
Zürich started out as a Roman settlement and quickly grew into a significant, European place of power, thanks to its localization but not without its craftsmen and traders that took the city over from the nobles and created the 13 Guilds that ruled it ever since. I bet it was the Freemasons. Zürich is super hip or chill as kids say these days. At the banks of the Limmat, the river that slowly flows through the city’s medieval old town, you can find numerous fashionable bars and stylish restaurants. Do as the locals do and buy for on the go a Bratwurst, Currywurst or another delicious sausage at Sternen Grill in the Theaterstrasse 22 near the lake. Don’t forget the spicy homemade mustard sauce. But be cautious because it’s heavy on the horseradish! Get yourself seated at the Zürichsee (Lake Zürich)and enjoy the beautiful scenery and the buzzing atmosphere of locals, tourists and ducks, a lot of ducks.
St. Peter and Fraumunster, together with Grossmunster and Predigerkirche the 4 main churches of Zurich
If you want to burn some calories afterwards you can do some hiking. At the SZU, the main station, you can hop on a train that will take you all the way up to Zürich’s backyard mountain, the Uetliberg. At the top you can climb the observation tower and enjoy breath-taking views in all directions. In wintertime sometimes it snows here and then you can sledge down here. Being able to ski so close to the centre of a big and vibrant city is something wonderful. No matter you are a party-animal, bon-vivant, explorer or sports enthusiastic Zürich caters a lot for everyone. And on op of all the great wages: no wonder Zürich people belong the most happiest and satisfied people on earth. Although it is in the German speaking part of Switzerland it has definitely also an Italian look and feel. It is full of fashionable shops and elegantly dressed people who take time for wining and dining. As soon as the weather allows the terraces are literally packed. Everyone will find something worth checking out in Zürich, for me it would be the James Joyce Foundation. Joyce actually wrote the Ulysses while staying in Zürich during the First World War.
The Limat starts at the outfall of Lake Zurich and meets the river Aare, the longest river of Switzerland, 35 km further up north
Numerous art galleries will scratch the itch for art lovers, while the renovated Zürich West; a former industrial quarter is the favourite hangout of Zürich’s alterative crowd, young creatives and hipsters. The area is full of old warehouses and factories that have been transformed into hip bars and restaurants, fashionable shops and galleries and offices of start-up-companies. Zürich West, also called Kreis 5 or Industriequartier is industrial and alternative in Swiss style. So some might find it too polished and will be missing out the more rough and edgy atmosphere they will find in comparable areas in London or Berlin. And of course the price level is according Swiss standards too, but Kreis 5 is definitely a great place you cannot afford to skip when being in Zürich. One of its most popular venues is Frau Gerolds Garten. To the backdrop of converted ship containers, you can visit the Saturday market in summer and a fondue tent during the winter season. There you will also find Rosso, a restaurant that serves the best and most crispy pizzas in town, at least that is what every local and expat living in Zürich will tell you.
Nice is a peculiar city, it’s as if it had a personality split between being French and Italian. You got pasta and pizza on one side of the street, baguettes and croissants on the other, all because of its’ location and neighboring countries. Actually it is not that long ago (1860) when Nice became a part of France. Long before that it was already a holiday destination for the rich and famous, celebrities cruised around the Promenade des Anglais in their carriages as early as in 1700s. Beautiful beaches, azure blue water, Mediterranean climate and surprisingly low prices are still the main assets of the French Riviera and make it a perfect place to spend a few days away from home. Nice to chill out, relax, do a bit of sunbathing and drinking in the evenings rather than sightseeing, but there are a few things worth checking out. Hotel Negresco, right at the world-famous promenade, is where the wealthy people stay. This includes the royalty. We- the simple people- can still have a drink at the lobby bar and explore its stunning interiors. Personally I would not want to spend so much money on a hotel in Nice or any other city at the Cote d’Azur anyway. To my opinion you are much better off by renting an apartment via Airbnb or another rental site. I would give it a try with the charming Old Town; le Vieux Nice as the locals call it.
Legendary hotel Negresco, the iconic image of Nice at the Promenade des Anglais
My very first holiday abroad ever was to Nice was with my friends from high school. It was an amazing time. I will for always remember the sensational feelings when I saw for the first time of my life real palm trees at Place Massena and Boulevard d’Anglais. Later I went back with my girl friends and for me Nice will always be linked to these sweet memories. If you’re visiting Nice with a significant other, then you should take her to the Castle Hill and take the best view of the city in. At the other site of the hill you will see the huge ferries leaving for Corsica what is an impressive picture as well since they look like floating cities. On a rainy day – yes it does rain sometimes at the Cote d’Azur – you will need to plan some indoor activities. Personally I would recommend visiting the museum of Marc Chagall. Some might find his paintings and drawings a bit naïf or even childish. But I am sure you will be enchanted by his mysterious and colorful works that often depict Jewish traditions and symbols, village life scenes and goats: a hell lot of goats.
In the neighbourhood of Nice you can find many picturesque villages
You could also pay a visit to the Cathedrale Saint-Nicolas, the Russian Orthodox Church, located at Avenue Nicolas II. If you are interested in Russian culture and traditions, you will certainly enjoy the rich interiors, shiny icons and sweet scents. It is not only one of the oldest Russian Orthodox churches outside of Russia; but probably also the largest one. When you are fed up with Nice, remember that this town makes the perfect base for trips to other famous places in the region. Cannes, Monaco and St. Tropez, traditional playgrounds of the old and new rich, are easy to reach from Nice by car or train. The countryside with the touristic but very picturesque Saint Paul de Vence, where painters like Marc Chagall spent the last days of their lives, is also a great destination for a day excursion from Nice. If you have more time you can also do a village tour in the Provence. Have a delicious lunch, sprinkled with a great wine and enjoy the beautiful landscapes.
