Paris might best known as the city of love and lights. But France’s second largest city; Lyon is widely recognized as the birthplace of gourmet food. It is the cradle of the famous French cuisine, which many consider the cornerstone of modern cooking. Lyon stands on ruins of a 1st century BC Roman city: Lugdunum which used to be a local centre nicknamed “The Capital of the Three Gauls”. You most likely heard the term before while watching Asterix and Obelix cartoons. Remnants of that former glory are still standing and available for public viewing, even public sitting upon. Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière stands on top of an ancient Roman forum and was built as a monument to the cities survival of the Black Death, which is celebrated annually in December during a festival called Fête des Lumières. The basilica is situated on a hill from which you can view the entire city; sometimes they even open one of the towers to visitors for an even greater vista. Ruins of Lugdunum is another area where you can literally walk on ancient history, the city was an important asset to Rome and was frequently visited by the emperors, some were even born there. A theatre is still standing and functions during summer months, it’s an incredible site even for modern times, it had seats for an audience of over 10,000 people.
View at the city from the top of Lyon`s symbol, the beautiful basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourviere
Modern Lyon isn’t a city for people that value their privacy; it’s a labyrinth of tiny alleys and staircases. Not only it’s a nightmare to navigate but also you can’t turn your head in any direction without looking into someone’s apartment. Lyon is not only a horizontal maze but also vertical, getting from one street to another is often via steep stairs. It’s especially painful during tourist season when they should implement some kind of traffic lights. Those secret passages are called traboules and were used to protect silk shipments from the weather. Lyon used to be the silk-weaving capital of France, you can learn more about that in one the museum such as La Maison des Canuts (https://maisondescanuts.fr/). Place Bellecour is one of the few areas that don’t feel like a coffin, it’s the main square in Lyon and it used to function as a market with an added benefit of holding public executions on boring weekends. It’s overlooked by a stunning town hole, the historic administrative centre of Lyon. The Confluence Neighbourhood stands in contrast to all that history. It looks like the city of the future and is one of the largest urban development projects in Europe. Luxury apartments, shopping malls, and the riverbank are brimming with life; everything is designed with modern, environment-friendly technology. Make sure to visit Musée des Confluences; it combines a science centre with an anthropology museum, kind of like Lyon itself.
An equestrian statue of King Louis XIV at Place Bellecour looking at the Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière
Enough of all that exploration, let’s eat! I could eat a horse after a day full of strolling around and Lyon is the perfect place to eat to your hearts’ content. How about eating WHILE sightseeing? There are more restaurants and food stands than trash bins in Lyon, nineteen of them decorated with prestigious Michelin Stars. Only one of them deserved the ultimate trophy of 3 stars, it’s located on 40 Rue de la Plage and was established by the late Paul Bocuse who named it quite humbly: The Auberge. Restaurants like that are in a league of their own and justify a trip to Lyon just for the food. Bocuse was old school. He didn’t reinvent the wheel but used his grandmas’ recipes. He only worked with top quality ingredients and wore a funny chef hat. Bocuse was a true host and used to greet his guests and make sure everything was crafted to their liking. I feel like modern chefs are trying to copy that style of running a restaurant but it often comes off as fake. Paul Bocuse was such a legend, a symbol and an ambassador of French cuisine that one of the most prestigious food markets in the world is named after him. Les Halles Paul Bocuse (https://www.halles-de-lyon-paulbocuse.com/) at 102 Cours Lafayette is a staple for traveling gluttons like me, give it a try. I imagine Lyon is where chefs go on vacation.
Paris is often referred to as the “City of Love” and anyone who ever visited this wonderful city understands why. There are a couple of reasons that come to mind. Let’s start with the city’s best-known landmark and symbol of Paris: the Eiffel Tower. In many international rankings La Tour Eiffel pops up as the world’s most famous tourist attraction. Especially in the evenings when the tower is lit up it’s jaw dropping. La Tour Eiffel makes not only the perfect scenery for a romantic walk but is also an amazing place for a dinner with your beloved one or to impress your new date. Make sure you make a reservation long time before in case you want to book a table for two in one of the tower’s restaurants. Both 58 Tour Eiffel on the first floor and Le Jules Verne on the second floor have an outstanding reputation and are extremely popular. Of course they come with an extraordinary price tag, as nothing is really cheap in Paris. Especially a meal in Le Jules Verne can turn out to be a very expensive experience and you should be ready to pay around 200 euro per person for a few courses diner. And then I have not counted in the mandatory wine yet. But hey, the views are breath taking and the food is superb, so you will get value for money. And lunching or dining on the Eiffel Tower is something you should have done at least once in your life. Another great activity to partake in with your significant other or date is an evening cruise on the Seine. You will be looking upwards to numerous bridges with padlocks attached to them as memoires of lovers who spent a precious spell. Why do I insist on doing everything during the evenings? Because Paris is also known as the “City of Lights”; It’s one of the most illuminated cities in the entire world. Don’t forget that Paris is also a modern European capital, famous for its vibrant nightlife, state of the art French cuisine and world-class fashion, luring in masses of tourists and expats from all over the globe.
Sitting on the roof of Notre Dame and seeming to be deep in thought, gargoyle (mythical creature) looking at Paris cityscape
Paris is one of those cities that you’re better off exploring during fall or spring. It’s so packed with tourists during summer that it almost becomes unpleasant. Lines for the popular attractions are beyond ridiculous; there are school trips literally everywhere you go. And the Eiffel Tower is a nightmare during the tourist season. Traffic jams are my personal hell and the stairs and elevators are nothing short of a traffic jam, almost claustrophobic. Honestly, you’re better off having a glass of wine and some cheese from a picnic basket in the park surrounding the tower. People usually come back to Paris, so your first visit is probably not your last. Get the staples out of the way, cross them out of the list and take your photos. Then on your next visit, you’ll be able to enjoy the real Paris, explore or the nooks and crannies that aren’t mentioned in tour guides.
What staples? Notre-Dame de Paris, one of the most (if not the most) recognizable gothic cathedrals in the world. Long time ago, the Notre-Dame already gained more popularity thanks to Walt Disney’s animated musical The Hunchback of Notre Dame. You could climb on top of a tower for a great view of the centre of Paris. But you needed to pay for that. Everything was free in the house of God, except for ungodly things like climbing spiral stairs for half an hour. But these days are gone as a consequence of the devastating fire in April 2019 and we will see how it will be after the Notre-Dame has re-opened its doors to the audience. A great structure fire that broke out under the roof on 15 April 2019 could not be distinguished for hours and at some stage it looked like the entire building would vanish. In a miraculous way they managed to end the fire and although it could be worse the impact of the blaze was pretty huge. The cathedral’s iconic spire and most of its roof have been destroyed and its upper walls are severely damaged. The French president Emmanuel Macron assured the French people and the whole word that followed the event that the cathedral would be restored. He initiated a fundraising campaign, which resulted in more than €1 billion of gifts, which also triggered a heated public debate. Some people found it scandalous that so much money could be collected for an old building while other more important issues in society like poverty cannot be solved. Despite the huge available financial resources it is estimated that a complete restoration will take at least twenty years.
"A white pearl" of Paris, the Basilica Sacre Coeur at Montmartre
Speaking of The Hunchback of Notre Dame, why not pay a visit to Disneyland Paris (formerly known as Euro Disney)? I spent a day there around 18 years ago. I had the time of my life and wanted to go back there ever since. They even say you’re never too old for Disney, but I don’t think it applies to the theme park. The Louvre is another place you need to see when in Paris, well you don’t really need to, but it’s just one of those places that everyone cool has been to. Don’t be scared of the lines, you can actually skip them by entering via “secret entrance” which isn’t secret, there’s a shopping mall underneath the museum, they’re connected so you can just walk in and laugh at your fellow tourists that spend hours in lines.
Unfortunately, there is also a dark side to Paris that emerged rather recently. France is a country in confusion and disorientation. The on-going demonstrations of the gilets jaunes (yellow vests) in the past, which reached the point of being nihilistic and violent, are a clear manifestation of that. And then there is the impact of mass immigration, globalization, poverty and huge gaps between North and South around the world, and last but not least Islamic radicalism. All challenges the tolerant and free West is facing at the moment you see in an enlarged version in Paris. When you are born in a poor suburb of Paris, the banlieue, you are more or less doomed. For most people, many with immigration backgrounds, it is not easy to find a proper job and escape from the depressing and hard life in the banlieue. These suburbs, not only in Paris but also other big French cities, have sometimes become lawless no-go zones and fruitful soil for a career as a low-life or even a terrorist. On 13 November 2015 coordinated terrorist attacks killed more than 130 people in the centre of Paris. The day after the front cover of the French newspaper l’Equipe was very striking and powerful. It was completely black with only the word l’horreur (the horror). Let’s hope that the city of love will not turn into a city of hate in the long run.
Frankfurt am Main, as the official full name goes, and distinguishing it from the other, smaller Frankfurt an der Oder near the Polish border, has a population of around 750,000 people. It’s the fifth-largest city of Germany, one of the worlds’ most important financial centres and also home to the head seat of the European Central Bank (ECB). Locals call it “Mainhattan”, comparing it to Manhattan in a way. You can experience that NY vibe on Zeil Street, the premium shopping area in town. All those yuppies and their healthy lifestyles, that waking up at 4 in the morning to jog around parks and the riverbank, lines to café’s where baristas know your name, because you’re a minimalist and there’s no room for a coffee machine in your minimalist household, you catch my drift? All these skyscrapers and banks and money make you feel as if you’re visiting a much larger city. Main Tower is one of those humongous towers; you can take a lift to an observation deck 200m above ground level for a great view of Frankfurt.
Römerberg: the historical market square with the lovely half-timbered houses and the Statue of Lady Justice
Frankfurt am Main is a very modern city with a very old heart. If you’re into medieval vibes and architecture you’ll feel right at home. Römerberg is the historical market square with the characteristic housing with upper floors being significantly larger than the base. It’s how people worked around building permits back then. The regulations only applied to the ground floor, which had to be of a certain size, but said nothing about the upper ones. That’s why so many medieval houses look like mushrooms, or like a reverse pyramid. There’s also the Town Hall and the Cathedral worth checking out. Most of the sites around Römerberg have been levelled many times over by bombings, fires and all sorts of disasters. It’s quite impressive how they kept rebuilding all of it with such attention to detail. The Cathedral is right next to the Old Town area, worth checking out even for its historical value, as it was the place of coronation and election of the Holy Roman Empire. It’s the third church on the same exact spot, as a matter of fact; there are traces of a temple from the 7th century, which is very interesting. Maybe it’s like Stonehenge with its’ lay lines and magnetic fields and whatnot?
Roam the Museum District (Museumsufer) and experience some very unique museums conveniently lined up along the riverside. There are 16 sites to visit including gems such as the Museum of World Cultures, one of the top ethnological museums in the world, the Film Museum with exhibits about the Lumière brothers and their ground-breaking inventions. Städel Museum is a staple destination for all the major European art geeks, housing big guns such as Monet, Picasso, and Rembrandt. Senckenberg Natural History Museum with its’ life-size dinosaur skeletons is a joy to experience for both adults and their children. But the Frankfurt Zoo might be a better choice if you’d rather watch animals that are still alive. Palmengarten is my personal favourite, even though it’s not strictly a museum, this botanical garden is an absolute joy to spend a day in during summer months. Lafleur, a Michelin starred restaurant, is located there.
When in Frankfurt, don`t hesitate to try special aromatic Apfelwein (apple wine)
Frankfurt’s old town smells of Bratwurst and Apfelwein, which is the same as cider but without the fizz. What’s up with Germans and their obsession with Sauerkraut and all kinds of Wurst? Back in the days, curing and smoking meat was the best way to preserve food, especially in these climates where winters are harsh and fresh food hard to come by. Countries that had an easier access to the Baltic Sea preserved fish, while these guys had to focus on pork and whatever they could grow. Try some of those delicious goodies at Kleinmarkthalle, which isn’t as small as the name would suggest. Wienerschnitzel and the green sauce, a local specialty yogurt sauce with herbs, served with boiled potatoes and eggs, go fabulously with a pitcher of that apple wine. Berger Straße is where the locals and students hang around, people that can’t afford to party on the Zeil Street. Bahnhofsviertel, the old train station district is quickly becoming one of the hippest parts of Frankfurt, with new pubs, restaurants, and clubs opening every year. They even host the Bahnhorsviertelnacht annually on 8th of September, it’s a huge street party when the entire area is closed off from traffic and people can mess around till early morning hours.
I have two dear friends in Frankfurt am Main: a truly football-crazy couple. When they are not working they are eating, drinking or partying, usually everything at the same time. Visiting a football match of the local football club Eintracht Frankfurt with them is an overwhelming experience with an amazing atmosphere and a lot of booze and delicious German snacks. If you witnessed the fantastic ambiance at the Europa League semi-finals between Eintracht and Chelsea in spring 2019 you know what I mean. When my friends throw a party at home it never stops before 6.00 am and if I dare to check out earlier they are extremely disappointed and will even get mad at me. Recently they married and I have never witnessed so much food and drinks on a wedding party, which seemed to go on forever. Since the wedding cake was served only around midnight the party lasted until the early morning hours. It seems that the party sprit is rooted deep down in the hearts and minds of Frankfurt’s people.
Hamburg, located in Northern Germany is one of the world’s most famous port cities and the harbour is the second busiest in Europe. The rich and beautiful move away from the capital and praise this city for its multicultural community, easy-going vibes and it’s openness to everything new and interesting. It was one the main cities belonging to the famous medieval Hanseatic League, a commercial and defensive alliance of merchant guilds and trade cities in North-West and Central Europe. It paved the path of Hamburg’s reputation of a liberal and tolerant city. It was always a magnet for artists, musicians and all kinds of laid-back individuals and even the Beatles moved here in the early 60s to make their first steps to worldwide fame. Nowadays it’s even better, the city is experiencing an economic boom, tourists and students flock over from all over the world to work, study and live the good life in this vibrant port. Young urban professions are sipping a glass of wine in one of the fashionable bars at the artificial beaches along the riverside.
In another – less glamorous – part of the city girls from Eastern Europe try to make a living by working at the Reeperbahn, Hamburg’s red light district in the St. Pauli district. Fishermen are unloading fresh catch during the early mornings to the backdrop of tall warehouses being adapted to modern, spacious lofts. All that and much more makes a part of the joys the city has to offer. It is remarkable how easy and fast the city always recovered from tragedies and disasters. One-third of its area was completely destroyed by The Great Fire in 1842. And after World War 2 only half of its homes were left standing, the port was in ruins. But they did not stick to bitching and whining. I find this drive to rebuild and improve amazing in Germans. And especially the people in Hamburg seem to have special talent for this resilience; the power to bounce back.
Rising above the Elba river: Elbphilharmonie, one of Hamburg's modern and iconic landmarks
As for the interesting sights Hamburg isn’t lying behind other German cities either. The Old Town is a tourist staple, and the port and the world-famous Red Light District are all worth seeing. When in Hamburg be sure to visit the Speicherstadt or City of Warehouses, a World Heritage Site build at the end of the 19th century. It is typical an area you can explore by foot or boat and you will be astonished by the warehouses in a gracious neo-gothic style, all in red brick and standing on oak piles. Some of them have been transformed into luxurious lofts and apartments, while others are still fitting to their original purpose of storing spices, coffee, thee and other imported trade goods. A visit to Speicherstadt can be perfectly combined with HafenCity is a new area at the waterfront of the Elbe river, opened in 2008. This district, partly created on new land taken from the Elbe, is packed with innovative and cutting-edge building that fulfil the city’s urgent need for new homes and working places. There you will also find the newly build Elbphilharmonie concert hall, which was opened in 2017. Have a look at its stunning glassed façade consisting of around 1,000 curved windows which looks like waves or the sails of a ship, or like some say: a quartz crystal. Do not moss out the opportunity to go to the rooftop and visit Plaza, an observation deck and glossy café.
Arts lovers can probably spend a whole day in the renowned Kunsthalle, located nearby the Hauptbahnhof, tucked in between the Binnenalster and Außenalster. Kunsthalle has one the richest collections of Germany and even Europe including works of Goya, Rembrandt, Rubens, Manet, Degas, Gauguin, Klee, Picasso, Bacon, Warhol, Bacon and of course the German genius (my words) Joseph Beuys. So matter if you are into old masters pieces, 19th century paintings or more contemporary art you will definitely find what you like. If you are tired of the city hectic and need to fill your lungs with some fresh air, head over to Planten un Blomen, one of Europe’s most famous parks which has a unique style of its own had to make a list of Europe’s best urban parks. Main attractions in the almost 50 hectares of gardens, greenhouses and ponds are the colourful musical fountain and the Old Botanical Garden, raised on the foundations of the old city walls. Especially when it is cold and rainy you can spend more time inside by exploring the five inter-connected greenhouses such as the Schaugewächshaus with vegetation from the Mediterranean regions and the Kakteenhaus, housing many cactuses and other plants from desert climates.
One of the popular places for relaxing in Hamburg, situated in the very city center, Planten un Blomen park
After a lazy and relaxing day in the green you can prepare yourself for a wild night out in St. Pauli, Hamburg’s edgy and rebellious district situated east of the centre and descending to the Elbe. St. Pauli is famous for the Reeperbahn, the legendary red light district, packed with strip clubs, red windows and porn shops. But is also home to FC St. Pauli, a football club, which has acquired a real cult status in and outside Germany. Its rebellious character is symbolized by the black flags carrying a skull and cross-bones and the fans are a weird mix of left-wing activists, punks, intellectuals, anarchists, students, harbour workers and even prostitutes. The big rival is the Hamburger SV (HSV), the much more elite and richer club of the city. This so called Traditionsverein (traditional club) has relegated recently to the second league which was big news in Germany because it was the only club which always played Bundesliga; Germany’s first football league. It even had a famous digital clock in its stadium, which was proudly and provocative showing the time since the club was playing in the Bundesliga. Obviously the clock needed to be reset and stopped ticking. But on a more positive side: the notorious city derby matches between FC St. Pauli and HSV are back in town!
The Reeperbahn will be associated forever with The Beatles who played their first gigs outside of the UK in some dodgy basement bars on the Reeperbahn. The first performances were in the Indra Musikclub, which still exists and enjoys its cult-status by becoming a pilgrimage for hard-core Beatles fans. In those days the band was instructed to play hard and fast to reduce the chance the gigs would be interrupted by fights of drunken people, which was very common during concerts those days. The Hamburg period of the Beatles lasted from August 1960 to December 1962; it boosted their performance skills and established the reputation of the “Fab Four”. The first recording of the Beatles ever released was the single "My Bonnie" which was recorded in Hamburg. Pretty soon after their first single they signed a contract with manager Brian Epstein and we all know how the story continued.
The Bavarian capital Munich (München in German) is best described by one word: “folklore”. München is deeply rooted in tradition and has this old, medieval tone to it. That’s the city centre; the further you get from that ground zero, the more city-like it gets, for better or worse. It is the so-called “secret capital” of Germany and in many international comparative studies the city is ranked as the one of the most desirable place to live. It is a clean and wealthy, with good public transport and other facilities, which make life in a big city more comfortable and pleasant. It is also a remarkable green city with many lush parks; amongst them is the Englisher Garten. It’s huge: the park stretches from the city centre all the way to the Northeast. It is not only by far the largest park of the country but even one of the biggest urban public parks in the entire world. Benedictine monks founded Munich; they scouted all the fertile land and took their chances. All that faith didn’t save Munich from a plague that hit it in the year 1349 and lasted for over 150 years. There’s an interesting tradition connected to those times; when the plague ended, barrel-makers danced to celebrate, they still do that dance once every seven years. I like how people still tend to their pagan/folk roots. Most historic sites are centred around the Old Town, the Altstadt, and the Royal Palace area, which is now filled to the brim with museums and galleries. Even if you are not into churches, do not miss the opportunity to see the Asam Church (Asamkirche and officially: St. Johann Nepomuk). It must be one of the smallest baroque churches in the world. Unlike most churches, the Asam Church isn’t a standalone building but its baroque façade is entirely integrated into the houses of the Sendlingerstraße. It does not really look as a church from the outside but once you are in you will be overwhelmed by the golden decorations and frescoes. Italy’s proximity also had a tremendous impact on Munich and its current form and you will encounter wide avenues similar to the ones in Milan or Rome.
The city's cathedral Frauenkirche is depicted on almost every postcard of Munich
But despite some Italian flavours the city is typically German or better said: Bavarian, which is also expressed by the traditional Bavarian outfits (Trachten) the locals tend to wear at special occasions. When you say Munich, you say Oktoberfest. Especially during these legendary festivities many women will go in Dirndl and men put on a Lederhose. It is the world’s largest folk and beer festival running from mid or late September to the first weekend in October. The Oktoberfest attracts each year around 6 million people from all over the globe, and the number is yearly growing and even more million litres of beer are consumed in just 2 weeks time. Munich is a wealthy city; everywhere you see the newest models of BWW, Audi and Mercedes cars. Maybe it will increase your appetite for visiting the BMW Museum, dedicated to the history and success story of Bayerische Motoren Werke AG. The museum is together with the BMW headquarters, the BMW-factory and BMW Welt, a presentation and distribution centre, located in an area close to the Olympiapark in Munich. Even if you are not a car lover the area is definitely worthwhile the visit. This goes especially if you are into modern architecture. The BMW Museum opened its doors in 1972, just before the Summer Olympics in Munich started and is designed by Karl Schwanzer. This famous Austrian architect was also responsible for the 4-cylinder shaped building of the BMW headquarters. Due to its typical shape the museum it is also called by its nickname “salad bowl”.
Neuschwanstein Castle near Munich: a fairy tale palace built in Romanesque Revival style
If you have time for a daytrip to Munich’s beautiful backyard you should definitely visit Neuschwanstein Palace. King Ludwig the Second ordered its construction. Many famous landmarks were built during his regime and his teenage-like spending rampage almost resulted in a total bankruptcy. One of the most notable results of the spending sprees of Ludwig II of Bavaria is the iconic – or some will prefer to say: “over the top” – Neuschwanstein Palace. Its a major tourist staple and world famous symbol of Bavaria. It is completely understandable that even on your visit the castle looks familiar with you. It is the most photographed castle in the world and the primary source of inspiration for Disneyland’s Sleeping Beauty Castle. Another historically interesting site, which you could visit from Munich, is the Berghof. This was Adolf Hitler's home in the Bavarian Alps near Berchtesgaden where he spent more time than anywhere else during World War II. By car from Munich it should not take you more than 2 hours, when using bus or train you should count on 1 hour extra.
Also outside of the Oktoberfest period Munich is a good place to party and relax. Haidhausen is a residential district in the eastern part of the centre and also referred to as the "French Quarter" since most streets bare the name of a French city and the way they and the squares are arranged resembles even the French style. This is the area where you can find the renowned Kultfabrik. It’s a huge labyrinth of cafés, clubs, restaurants, cinemas, climbing walls and skate zones, that claims to be largest party and leisure complex in Europe. Biergartens, outdoor areas in which beer and local food are served, are spread all over the city centre. Have a seat, pick your favorite local beer brewed according to the Reinheitsgebot (German Beer Purity Law) and have a Currywurst, Bratwurst or salty Pretzel on the side. Cheers or as the Germans would say: Zum Wohl!
Long time ago I always thought about Berlin as a particularly unpleasant city, Moscow Lite, so to say. Everything big, intimidating, towering architecture, victory arches around every corner and military marches every weekend with Carl Orff’s Carmina Burana playing from speakers. Tall, blonde people with blue eyes and heads held up high, looking down on everyone else. Don’t blame me: I was young and naïve. When I first visited Berlin I was baffled, it felt like this beautiful, huge garden was seemingly growing out of grey concrete. Germany’s capital became a wondrous place on earth for all kinds of people and an economic powerhouse. There are a few things you just need to check off when being in Berlin; the Holocaust Memorial, the Brandenburg Gate, and the Reichstag. In case you don’t care all that much about lingering in the past visit the city in early autumn at the occasion of the Oktoberfest (yes not only Munich has these festivities) and have a taste of the delicious beer, sausages, sauerkraut, and maybe local women too. Amsterdam might have the reputation of being liberal and tolerant but I think that nowadays Berlin lives up more to this reputation. What I understood from my gay friends is that compared to Amsterdam they feel even more free and safe when they are partying in Berlin.
The Berliner Dom in baroque style with its world-famous Sauer organ is one of the most important churches in Berlin
Arts and history lovers can spend whole days on Museum Island, which is on the UNESCO-list of World Heritage Sites and is situated in the middle of the Spree at the eastern end of Unter den Linden. Here you will find grouped together nothing less than five museums. Most likely the most famous of them is the Neues Museum, which has the Egyptian bust of Nefertiti in its collection. The Pergamonmuseum, one of the world’ s leading archaeological museums is also on Museum Island. The Jewish Museum (Jüdisches Museum) in the famous Kreuzberg district will tell you the story of Jews in Europe over the last few thousand years. It is incredible rich in information and communicates with the visitor through all kinds of arts, videos, documentation and interactive exhibitions. The building designed by the controversial architect Daniel Libeskind is a piece of art on its own. Its unique design is overwhelming and based on an exploding David Star, with interior spaces disappearing into angles, and symbolizes the Jewish lifestyle before, during, and after the Holocaust. In the centre, nearby the Potzdammer Platz you will find the Holocaust Memorial. The design of this labyrinth of gloomy grey concrete slaps of uneven heights was inspired by the crowded headstones in the Old Jewish Cemetery of Prague. Conceived already in 1993, the controversial project was not opened until 2005. To really engage with the controversial memorial monument designed by Peter Eisenmann you really need to go inside and experience its shifts in perspective and light, which can cause feelings of distance, isolation, and even claustrophobia.
Holocaust Memorial in Berlin: 2710 concrete gray blocks forming a labyrinth with an underground exhibition space
For another impressive but also more fun experience you can do a Berlin Wall walking tour. The Berlin Wall was not only marking the border between West-Germany (BRD) and East-Germany (DDR). More than that, it was a painfully confronting symbol of the Iron Curtain between East and West in Europe for many decades until it came down on 9 November 1989. Most tourists in Berlin visit Checkpoint Charlie, the world-famous east-west border control during the Cold War. But if your agenda allows be sure to go also for a walk along the remains of the Wall by the Spree in the Friedrichshain district. A stretch of 1.3 kilometres; the East Side Gallery, makes now up for the longest open-air gallery in the world. Immediately after the wall came down in November 1989, 118 artists from 21 countries began painting the East Side Gallery. In over hundred paintings the artists depicted and commented on the political landslide changes occurring in the turbulent years 1989/1990. Some of the graffiti works and paintings at the East Side Gallery have become icons on their own. Dmitri Vrubel’s Fraternal Kiss for instance that depicts the former communist leaders Erich Honecker (DDR) and Leonid Brezhnev (USSR) passionately making out. And also Birgit Kinders’s painting, which is a very realistic picture of a Trabant breaking through the wall has become world-famous. Meanwhile they must have been reproduced on millions of postcards, posters, mugs and magnets.
When you are done with all the sightseeing you can prepare to paint the town red in Berlin because it dubs the best clubs in Europe and especially the electronic music and DJ scene is simply awesome. But dancing the night away is not possible with an empty stomach, so head over to Kreuzberg. This district is not only home to the largest Turkish community outside of Turkey but also filled to the brim with many cool bars and exotic restaurants that serve great quality food of all kind of cuisines. And rest assured your credit card will not easily run red in the German capital. Another great thing about Berlin is that is remarkable cheap for a European capital, which also explains why it is still such a popular city amongst students, artists and bohemians.
Tourists often overlook Ghent as it is located in between “the big three”: Brussels, Bruges and Antwerp. But don’t let it fool you. Ghent (in Dutch: Gent and in French: Gand) is the perfect destination for anyone who aims to have a taste of Belgium without pushing through crowds of sweaty, smelly people with cameras. Bruges might me more famous with tourists and the medieval architecture and canals are astonishing. But, and I say this with all respect, it also feels too much as an open-air museum and as at nights is often deserted and boring. So my favourite pick would be Ghent since it offers the full package of wonderful medieval sights, students and a pulsating nightlife. To have a good impression Ghent’s party-minded soul and also its edgy sides watch the great movie Belgica, which was released in 2016 and tells the story of the renowned local dance café Charlatan. Gent was the largest city in Europe during the middle ages, second only to Paris and its inhabitants were known for their love for liberty, they often protested against taxes and anything that restricted their freedom. It is also known as the largest university town in the Dutch part of Belgium. So yeah! Students!
Ghent boasts a lot of impressive medieval landmarks, including the Gothic Saint Bavo Cathedral that took 500 years to be finished
Most of the stuff worth checking out is located at the medieval part of town, including three central squares, that’s what they call them. Although I always thought there can only be one centre of something. But I am by no means a square expert of course. When you’re done taking selfies in those three; you can officially tell people you’ve seen Ghent and move on with sightseeing. The spires of its three medieval churches dominate Ghent’s city skyline, and at some point at one of the bridges over the elegant Leie canal you can see them all behind each other. It is a magnificent view and it is probably the spot where most pictures in Ghent will be taken.
One of the impressive towers you will see from there belongs to the Saint Bavo Cathedral (also known as the Sint-Baafs Cathedral), Ghent’s Gothic cathedral that stands almost 90 meters high. The real gem of the cathedral is inside: the Ghent Altarpiece, better known as the “Adoration of the Mystic Lamb”. The altarpiece consists of 12 foldable panels, painted by the Brothers van Eyck, who were one of the first masters in the Flemish Painting School. This masterpiece of European art dates back to the early 15th century and is supposed to be one of the world’s earliest oil paintings. May times, especially during war periods panels were stolen but returned, expect for one part that is still missing. During the Second World War the whole work was stored in a German salt mine, and it took the best restoration experts long time to repair all the damage caused.
Another breath-taking medieval sight, which cannot be missed during a Ghent city trip is the 12th century Gravensteen. This impressive and robust castle that was once home to the counts of Flanders looks exactly like a castle should look like. I am not sure if you would need to go inside since its interiors are pretty sober, unless suits of armour and guillotines belong to your fetishes. To my opinion the most exciting part of a visit of the castle is to walk over its thick walls and enjoy the fresh breeze and the stunning views over the city. The whole complex is pretty huge, and being in the city centre surrounded by many other buildings. So it is not easy to make a full-screen stand-alone photo of it. For your best shot of the castle from afar head over to St Widostraat. One other great experience when being in Ghent is doing a boat trip on the Leie, it’s a marvellous journey along many hidden architectural treasures this city has the offer and from the boat you can see the castle from other interesting angles too.
Gravensteen: a medieval castle in Ghent and the old residence of the Counts of Flanders
If you say Gent, you say Gentse Feesten, a 10-day long citywide party in the middle of July. Just make sure you book your AirBnB in advance as the town gets super crowded. I had the ultimate pleasure to be there a few times and it is a dazzling experience of music, theatre and all kinds of other live performances and street arts. And above of all: food and drinks in huge amounts and variety. The last time I visited the Gentse Feesten I gave up on regular breakfast but started the day with mussels and French fries (mosselen en frites in Dutch) and of course a big beer. Another memory of Ghent for me will always be connected to a festival dedicated to artists coming from the Northern polar regions which I visited for work. I ended up painting the town red with an exotic and hilarious mix of hip-hoppers from Nuuk (Greenland’s capital), Inuit singer songwriters from Northern Canada and a Siberian throat-singer. The festival was held in the concert hall and arts centre Vooruit, another architectural gem of Ghent; a gracious building in art nouveau style from the early 1900s and meant to entertain the labour classes in the city.
After such anecdotes you might think that you should visit Ghent only during big events. But rest assured: also outside the festivals period and no matter the season Ghent is really worthwhile, even if only for its cafes, clubs and restaurants. The beers of the famous local brewery Gruut are wonderful and will impress even the most critical connoisseurs and there are many beer-cafés, which have an overwhelming menu of Belgian and other foreign beers. The quality level of Ghent restaurant scene is also pretty amazing and, as everywhere in Flanders, the service is vey friendly and attentive. Say hi when you would stumble in one of those bars upon author Herman Brusselmans, the self-proclaimed upper-God of Flemish literature. He is quite a character and an author who writes at an amazing pace and publishes one book after the other. Not every work might be a masterpiece and often it resembles the one before. Still I am a huge fan, if only for his provocative style and politically incorrect sense of humour. Brusselmans is undoubtedly the most successful and best selling author of the country and Ghent’s most famous “son”.
Antwerp or Antwerpen, as the Flemish and Dutch say, is considered to be one of the most attractive places to live or to visit when in Europe. The second largest city in Belgium at the Scheldt (Schelde) river lures the biggest names in fashion, clubbing scene, art and even diamond dealers. Luxurious and classy, Antwerp is often called Belgium’s “Capital of Cool” and the place to be for anyone that has more money than they’ll ever need. There are also numerous landmarks and world-famous specialties to try. Even my father, who used to be an officer electrician on tanker ships, used to tell me how Antwerp is one of the most charming and lovely places on earth, and he has seen a lot in his days. Everything worth seeing is within a walking distance of the stunningly beautiful Central Station and the old town, which is built around the most impressive cathedral in Belgium. Another part of town worth visiting is Het Zuid – a former dock area – which acts now as a cultural centre filled to the brim with restaurants, art galleries and nightclubs.
My history with Antwerp dates back to quite some years ago when I went there as a master student facilitated by the renowned EU study exchange program Erasmus. It was only for a few months but it turned out to be an amazing and unforgettable journey and life changing experience. Although Belgium is so close I noticed how completely different it is from the northern neighbour, the Netherlands. They like to dress sharp and stylish and take much more time take to enjoy a decent lunch, to mention a few distinctive features. I remember how astonished I was to find out they even served beer in the restaurant of the university campus. I hardly doubt if that would be still the case nowadays. The Belgians and especially the Flemish are not always fond of the Dutch because they find hem often too loud in public sphere and arrogant. This especially goes for the Dutchmen living up north of the rivers. Being a “Southy” myself I can understand these emotions to a certain extend. Having said that I had absolutely no problems to be accepted by my fellow-students. I got a lot of friends and relatives coming over the weekend and I always enjoyed playing the personal city guide for them.
Antwerp Central Station: a railway station with the grandeur of a palace
The main sights have not changed since then. Being a regular train traveller I would usually not advice to include a central station in the sightseeing list; most of the times these are exactly the places you want to leave as soon as possible upon arrival. At least I have that idea always when I arrive on Brussels’s central station, which seems to be in a permanent renovation stage, not to mention Brussels-North station. But for Antwerp Central Station we should make an exception. For good reasons it has been rated as one of the five most beautiful train stations in the world. When you will enter the magnificent main hall you feel like you are in a gothic cathedral and that the catholic mass is going to start any minute. Antwerp is proud of its rich history but is always progressing and looking forward, so also this neo-gothic landmark has also been adapted to modern times with advanced multi-level platforms and smooth escalators.
Right next to the station you will also find the famous Diamond Quarter (Diamantkwartier). Antwerp is still the main global centre of international diamond trade with a daily turnover of more than 200 million dollars. Most of the business is still run by the traditional large Jewish community in Antwerp but nowadays the Indian businessmen are taking a bigger piece of the cake as well. From the station you can walk along the Keyserlei; no need to stop here because with its many fast food restaurants, cliché bars and touristic shops it is not the most beautiful part of the Antwerp. Continue over the impressive Meir shopping alley where the high buildings and more exclusive shops have much more style and grandeur. From there you could make a stop at the Rubens House (Rubenshuis), the Italian-style villa, which was the home and studio of the Flemish painter Rubens. The work of the 17th century Baroque painter has become especially famous for the powerful way he portrayed curvaceous women. His art even triggered the phrase “Rubenesque”, used to describe women with a “fuller“ figure. Close to the Rubens House you can also admire the beautiful Bourla Theatre (Bourlaschouwburg) designed in a neoclassical style. It is a pleasant area with a lot of exclusive antique shops, arts galleries and fashionable restaurants.
Wherever you go in Antwerp; at some stage you will always have glimpse of the elegant spire of the Cathedral of Our Lady (Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekathedraal). According to the original plans the Roman Catholic cathedral would have two towers but due to a huge fire in October 1533, the completion of the second tower was delayed and even led to its ultimate postponement. Explore also the streets and courtyards around the cathedral, the Great Market Square (Grote Markt) and its Town Hall. And do not forget the nearby Schelde bank with its hip bars, outdoor terraces and of course castle Het Steen, the oldest building in town, One of the hidden gems in the centre area is the Vlaeykensgang, the magical hidden medieval passageway that winds round and through the courtyards of the old buildings and is home to some great restaurants.
The Cathedral of Our Lady and the statue of famous Flemish artist Rubens at the Groenplaats: the vibrant heart of Antwerp's historical city centre
The whole venue is buzzing and packed with cafés, restaurants and even a legendary snack bar. I am talking about the one and only Frituur Number One: a longstanding lifesaver for all those who with empty stomachs after a night hard drinking. So you will have plenty of places to choose from to take a well-deserved rest from the intensive sightseeing and shopping. My personal pick would be a terrace on the Hendrik Consience square, next to the baroque Carolus Borromeus church and the old city library. This picturesque square is named after the 19th-century Flemish writer who is said he learned his people how to read. It was the first car-free square in Antwerp in the late sixties and still breathes a very intimate atmosphere. Wherever you go in Antwerp: enjoy the great Belgian cuisine and hospitality. And mandatory: have one of those great Belgian beers on the side. Do as the locals do and order a Bolleke, the amber coloured beer of the iconic local brewery De Koninck. To your health or as they in Anwerpen: Schol!
Brussels, Brussel in Dutch and Bruxelles in French (or as the real connoisseurs often refer to: BXL) is the living and breathing heart of modern Europe. The capital of both Belgium and the European Union itself, this city has become a centre of administration to one of the most recognizable political powers of our world. I know it also sounds like a capital of boredom and suited up zombies, but hear me out since I am supposed to belong to those. I fully understand that for most visitors it will not be love at first sight. Fact: especially on grey and rainy winter days the city with its endless out dated office buildings alongside busy boulevards with permanent traffic jams can show a very gloomy and depressive face. But don’t forget: Brussels is typically a city that has to grow on you. It will not enchant you instantly like charming Flemish cities such as Leuven, Ghent and Antwerp usually do with first-time visitors. Being one of the financial behemoths allowed Belgium to become a luxurious travel destination. It is also a great target for a city break or a quick rest in between intercontinental flights. Be it shopping along one of Brussels’ exclusive shops. Or having a Belgian beer in one of those charming pubs. Or maybe you will prefer dining at Michelin starred restaurants. Everyone will find something interesting and fun to do in this lovely city. If you only have one day to explore Brussels the Grande Place, or the Great Market is the place to be, it is basically a quintessence of the city with beer, Belgian fries, and stunning architecture to dabble in in one spot. It’s considered to be one of the most beautiful market squares in the entire world. Especially at night when the 15th Century City Hall in Flemish Gothic style, the Breadhouse (Maison de Roi in French and Broodhuis in Dutch) and the guildhalls are illuminated it offers a truly magical spectacle.
French fries served in a paper cone to be enjoyed while exploring Brussels
Being a regular business traveller to Brussels myself I always make sure I have an apartment near the Grande Place or the nearby Bourse. From there I can be in no time on Place Saint-Géry/St. Goriksplein. No matter the season of the year, this square is always lively and busy. In the grand café inside the colonnaded market hall (dating from 1888) there are often live concerts & DJ sets and they serve excellent snacks to accompany your Belgian beer. When you are still hungry you should head to place Place Saint-Catherine/Sint-Katelijneplein, which is home to the best fish and see food restaurants in town. The whole area near the Rue Dansaert/Dansaertstraat is lovely anyway with its Flemish cafes, outstanding restaurants and arts boutiques. A legend in Brussels nightlife is l’Archiduc, decorated in Art Deco style and serving great cocktails. Typically a place you should go with your girlfriend, at least I did that with some of my previous beloved ones. Occasionally you can here also meet a famous artist who just gave a concert in the nearby Ancienne Belgique (better known as the AB), one of the leading concert halls for contemporary music in Belgium. There is also an old piano in l’Archiduc, so if you are really lucky you can witness a private concert.
Most first-time visitors to Brussels with empty stomachs will probably end up in Rue de Bouchers/ Beenhouwersstraat. The narrow and joyfully illuminated streets look very intimate and cosy. I would not dare to say that they are all tourist traps but the typical set menus and pushy waiters and perky restaurant owners trying to talk you inside are not the best assets of the rich restaurant scene in Brussels. Local will usually not go there, except for a few renowned places such us Chez Leon, famous for its moules et frites (mussels and French fries). This family-owned restaurant was already established in 1893, but I can assure you the mussels are much fresher. Nearby you will find another Brussels nightlife icon: the Délirium Café. The basement bar is always filled to the brim with local youngsters and partygoers, expats and tourists. Its menu provides sports more than 2,000 beers and tasty cheeses, sausages and other snacks because you should never drink with an empty stomach. Also out of Brussels centre you will find areas with world-class restaurants and renowned cafes such as Cafe Belga at Place Flagey/Flageyplein, a cultural hotspot in the Ixelles district. On the same square is also Frit Flagey. Together with Maison Antoine on Place Jourdan/Jourdanplein in the EU quarter it is supposed to belong to the best and for sure the most famous frites stands of the city and even the country. If you like clubbing in African style head over to Matonge district, near the metro station Port Namur, and packed with bars and clubs frequented by the large African, mostly Congolese, community of Brussels. From own experience I can assure you they know how to throw a party and the vibrant area has become increasingly popular with local youngsters, expats and even Eurocrats who like it more exotic, edgy and wild.
Before you start to think that Brussels is only about food and drinks it should be noted that there are also several cultural hotspots that will impress even the most experienced travellers. What to think of the Old England Building with it stunning art-nouveau façade? You can easily arrive there when you will walk up from the central railway station to the Mont des Arts/Kunstberg. It not only houses a three-store museum of more than 2000 music instruments but the roof-top café offers also great panoramic views over the city. Next to it is the Royal Museums of Fine Arts, which in fact is an ensemble of six museums under one roof. I especially like the Modern Museum and the Magritte Museum dedicated to the surrealist painter René Magritte who made Ceci n'est pas une pipe, which has become an icon of modern art. In the other museums you can also admire works of internationally acclaimed artists such like Salvador Dali, Francis Bacon, James Ensor, Paul Delvaux, Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec and old masters like Rembrandt, Pieter Paul Rubens and Jan Breughel.
Nearby you can take a stroll in Brussels’ main city park. The park, which for centuries was notorious for it street prostitutes and other late night birds lies between the Royal Palace at one side and the National Parliament at the other side. Although the royal family of Belgium now permanently lives at Laeken, the Royal Palace (Palace Royale in French and Koninklijk Paleis in Dutch) in Brussels remains as their official residence. In summer season the palace is open for the public. By far its most popular tourist attraction inside is the Mirror Room with a shiny green ceiling that consists of 1.6 million beetle shells. The Thai jewel beetle wings are all glued to the ceiling, according to an idea of the artist Jan Fabre, which creates a magnificent mosaic. Especially Russian tourist in Brussels might also want to see the statue of Peter the Great in the park dedicated to his visit of the city. The legend says that it is exactly on the spot where the great Tsar had to vomit during a stroll in the park on April 16, 1717 after a hard night drinking. Another great park popular with locals to have some fresh air and relax is the Parc du Cinquantenaire/Jubelpark with its Arc de Triumph. It is not far from the European quarter of Brussels around Schuman Square. Brussels is famous for its Art Deco and Art Nouveau architecture designed by architects such as Victor Horta and Paul Hankar. You might be surprised to find out that amongst all these sleek new and grey out-dated office buildings there is also a beautiful square (Square Ambiorix) that is home to the most beautiful Art Nouveau houses.
Atomium: another national symbol of Belgium with the best panorama over Brussels and its surroundings
Located in the Heysel Park in the Western part you will find the Atomium, a 100 meters tall model of an atom blown up 165 billion times. It was built in 1958 for the Brussels World’s Fair. Although it was meant as a temporary construction, just as the Eiffel Tower in Paris it was there to stay and became one of the most eye-catching and famous landmarks of the city. Nearby the Atomium is Mini-Europe, a theme park with miniature versions of the most famous European monuments. Another iconic symbol of Brussels is much more tinier than the Atomium: the little peeing man Manneken Pis. The 58 cm high boy is peeing in a fountain already for a more than 5 centuries on the corner of Rue de l’Étuve/Stoofstraat and Rue du Chêne/Eikstraat. You will end up at him if you just walk straight from the Town Hall but usually just follow the big groups of tourists heading to him will do the trick. This little fellow is dressed in different clothes every day and has a larger wardrobe than most women could dream of. Much less well known is his female equivalent Jeanneke Pis, a much newer statue from 1987 and depicting a little girl with pigtails and judging on the smile on her face she really enjoys it. She can be found near the Délirium Café and the Rue des Bouchers on the east side of the narrow dead-end street Impasse de la Fidélité/Getrouwheidsgang. And nowadays Brussels is even proud host to a peeing dog statue called Zinneke Pis, situated since 1998 on the corner of Rue des Chartreux and Rue du Vieux Marché aux Grains. Strange, as a frequent Brussels traveller I realize only now that Brussels is not only about eating and drinking but also about peeing. So when you are one of those rare peeing statute fetishists, Brussels is definitely the place to be. As long as you promise you will not pee in those lovely local beers everyone will be fine with it.
At first sight foreigners might perceive Rotterdam as a less friendly and less welcoming city than Amsterdam. The modern no-nonsense architecture is quite different from the picturesque old centre of Amsterdam. Compared to the capital there is a more “bright lights, big city” vibe which feels less cosy and intimate. But never judge a book by the cover. And besides: the skyline of Rotterdam with its skyscrapers, the Euromast tower and the majestic Erasmus Bridge (Erasmusbrug) over the Meuse (Maas) river is the best of the country. The Netherlands is a too small country for having real metro pole cities but Rotterdam comes most close. But it also has a laid-back attitude and friendly, human face. After all, the renowned Humanist Erasmus was born here and is intrinsically linked to this city as many names demonstrate: Erasmus Bridge, Erasmus University. The Erasmus Programme rings a bell, right? This international student exchange programme is every student’s wet dream. A chance to study abroad in a country of your own choosing was always very appealing to me and made me push for better grades while studying.
Bright lights. big city: the Rotterdam skyline with the gracious Erasmus Bride, nicknamed "the Swan", is considered to be the most impressive of all big cities in the Netherlands
The Rotterdam people are very straightforward, which should not be confused with being harsh. While in Amsterdam they mainly talk and tend to be snobbish, the people in Rotterdam are actually working and really achieving something. At least according to the people in Rotterdam. It is this typical cultivated rival thing between the two biggest cities in the Netherlands, which you will witness in many countries. Rotterdam is famous for its working class mentality that made this city big and successful: “No words but deeds”, it is not for nothing that this is also a line in the anthem of the local famous football team Feyenoord. Rotterdam is similar to Warsaw, in regard to being completely obliterated during WW2 bombings. At the Leuvehaven near the Maritime Museum you can find a bronze sculpture of a man without a heart created by the French-Russian artist Ossip Zadkine. It’s a harrowing monument, called De Verwoeste Stad (The destroyed City). It symbolizes the destroyed heart of the city by the bombs of the German Luftwaffe. The government didn’t slack and began rebuilding this port town, perhaps a bit too hastily for its own good. Some people say that ditching the medieval town model, with the old town square and all, has stripped it of its typical Dutch character. Unlike for the Polish capital where everything was done to rebuild to a pre-bombing state, Rotterdam went with “everything goes” kind of approach.
But different doesn’t have to equal worse, right? They got a gnome statue that looks like Santa Claus with a butt plug. Rotterdam is statistically the busiest port in Europe and one of the biggest ones in the entire world. Its maritime legacy is clearly visible and accentuated via museums such as the Maritime Museum, art galleries and café’s that host engaging events at the waterfront. The city is also renowned for its tolerance and multi-cultural diversity, which also had its impact on the local restaurant scene. When you have a fling for Asian and other exotic dishes you just cannot go wrong in Rotterdam. In De Witte de Withstraat and other centrally located areas you will find the best Chinese, Japanese, Vietnamese and Thai restaurants in town. You never tried Surinam food? You definitely should! The cuisine of Suriname, a former Dutch colony in South America, is a wonderful blend of Chinese, Indonesian, Indian and Latin American dishes. The best occasion to feel the Latin and Caribbean vibe of Rotterdam is during the Summer Carnival that usually takes place at the end of July. The event that is organized since 1984 traditionally kicks off with the Battle of the Drums when brass bands are competing for the prestigious Golden Drum in a marching tour around Hofplein and its surrounding streets. And then there is also the Mercado; a buzzing street market where you can stuff yourself with Surinamese bakkeljauw (stockfish), Antillean pastechi (stuffed pastry), tropical crushed ice and so much more. The absolute highlight and most famous part of the Summer Carnival is the Summer Carnival Street Parade. Thousands of extravagant costumed dancers, massive floats, brass bands, drummers and its very own elected Queen march and swing on catchy rhythms through the streets of Rotterdam centre.
One of my personally favourite events in Rotterdam is the yearly IFFR, the International Film Festival Rotterdam, which has become the biggest international film festival in the world. Every year, at the end of January/beginning of February IFFR draws during 10 days film directors, screenwriters and especially (art) cinema lovers from all over the world in huge numbers to Rotterdam. Another world famous event in Rotterdam nowadays is the North Sea Jazz Festival. For many years it resided in The Hague but since 2006 it hopped over to Rotterdam. It’s now held each second weekend of July at the Ahoy venue. The North Sea Jazz Festival is a true melting pot of music styles and offers three days of jazz, blues, soul, funk, hip hop, R&B and much more of cross-over styles. After all; everything goes in Rotterdam.
At the end of a hectic day there is no better spot to hangout and chill in Rotterdam than at the Kop van Zuid, a little peninsula at the foot of the gracious Erasmus Bride. Cross the Maas river from the Northern to the Southern part of the city and you will arrive in this Walhalla for modern architecture lovers. The area is packed with old warehouses, which have been transformed into luxurious lofts homes for students and overseen by some impressive skyscrapers. At the right side of the Erasmus Bride, nicknamed the Swan, you can stroll along the Wilhelminakade with the fully restored Cruise Terminal, the former arrival and departure hall of the legendary Holland America Line. The famous Hotel New York at the very end of the peninsula is another must-see. Hotel New York was the Holland America Line’s head office and converted into a hotel/grand café in 1993. This is sacred ground since for thousands of emigrants in the past because during centuries this was the place where they said farewell to their motherland. Nowadays the big cruise ships dock at this area. A parking lot for wealthy tourists who have only little in common with the poor bastards who departed their country in the beginning of 1900s on a search for at better life in the US and Canada.
From the terrace in front of the hotel you can stretch out, have a cold beer and admire Rotterdam’s impressive skyline including the Euromast. The 185 metres high tower, or more correctly: mast, was erected in 1960 and is probably still Rotterdam’s most famous landmark. It offers a spectacular 360-degree panorama view of the city. If the 100m-high observation deck is still too low for you, you can take the rotating glass elevator (Euroscoop), which will bring you all the way to the very top of the mast.
I thought I knew the city well but it is only very recently that I found out that Rotterdam has also a statue of Tsar Peter The Great. It is situated at the Northern side of the river at the entrance of the Veerhaven on the Westerkade. From there you have another great view on the bridge and the surroundings skyscrapers. The statue was a gift of the Russian Federation to the city. It is less bombastic than most patriotic statues of him you will come across in Russia and fits therefore better in the Dutch tradition. Since he was not only a tsar but also the founder of the national navy in his country it also suits well in this harbour city.
Eye-catching innovative Dutch archtecture from the seventies: the Cube houses of architect Blom in Rotterdam right next to metro station Blaak
A rather new attraction for locals and tourists visiting Rotterdam is de Markthal (Market Hall), a huge and stunningly designed covered food market. With close to hundred fresh food stalls, shopping units and restaurants it’s home to delicious culinary treats from all over the world. The roof covered with colourful paintings of food is real eye candy as well. Nearby is another Rotterdam tourist staple you cannot afford to miss: de Kubuswoningen (Cube houses) right above Blaak metro station. The renowned architect Blom turned conventional houses 45 degrees and placed them on hexagon-shaped pylons. His design aims to represent a village within a city. Each house stands for a single tree, and all the houses together make a forest. Be sure to visit them also from the inside. Just imagine people really live there: it’s truly amazing.
