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Baku city guide

I bet you know those people that spend their vacation only in places you can’t even pronounce. Baku is the next big thing in those circles. The capital of what now? Azerbaijan? Don’t shake your head in disbelief; this city is awesome. It’s hard to put a label on it. Baku is so alien to the western culture that we might as well be talking about Mars. You will notice undoubtedly strong Russian, but also Persian flavours. Traces of the Roman Empire here, an Indian temple there. Open a map and look at the Caspian Sea. Notice the eagle’s beak on its western shore. That’s Baku: the capital and the most developed city in Azerbaijan. Some even call it the next Dubai. Both are giants of the oil industry. Fossil fuels are an integral part of the Azerbaijani landscape. Underground pressure pushes gas to the surface. Drop a match and it will burn until the supply lasts. That means practically forever. Yanar Dağ is one such place, a giant natural stonewall with flames spouting out of it. We can explain this phenomenon now, but our ancestors couldn’t. What if the biblical burning bush was just a gas vent? Ateshgah of Baku is a similar site, albeit built up into an actual religious centre. Some say it is of Zoroastrian origin, some say it’s Hindu. At first, it was an altar or a tiny temple around the pyre. Ateshgah eventually grew into a monastery of sorts.

Panoramic view at Philharmonia Garden and Old City Wall in Baku

Along the wall of the old town in Baku, near the Philharmonic hall there is a garden with a beautiful fountain, a perfect place for relaxation and pleasant walks

Experience more of that thoroughly Arabic architecture around the Old City. Old Baku reminded me of Jerusalem. Think of chaotic and colourful with street vendors and crowded alleys smelling of baklava. Merchants are selling luxury fabrics and matryoshka dolls and chatting up their neighbours. Word is these alleys were designed by a military prodigy. Enemy troops could get inside, but manoeuvring in this labyrinth was impossible. Nowadays you have signs pointing you in the right direction. Head towards the Bazar Square. Archaeologists uncovered it in 1964 and it served as a pagan worship and burial site. It was likely a part of a larger religious complex. The Maiden Tower located south of the square is an unsolved riddle. Scientists knew that it predated the arrival of Muslims in Baku. Now they’ve discovered it is much older, there are parts of it from as far back in time as 600 BC. It’s bizarre; it looks like something drawn by H.R. Giger. Some people believe it served as a Zoroastrian fire temple. There are vents on top of it that funnel the natural gas upwards. That’s where they light them up like a blowtorch. I like to think it’s a fairy-tale wizards tower.

View from river at Flame Towers with night illumination in Baku

Flame Towers, the tallest buildings in Azerbaijan are visible from anywhere in Baku, their design and evening illumination resemble a huge fire, raging in the west of the city

The Palace of the Shirvanshahs is not as fascinating as the Maiden Tower. It is one of Baku’s iconic landmarks nonetheless and is definitely worth seeing. It used to be the residence of the Shirvanshaha lineage. They ruled this region for over 7 centuries. The palace complex was built around the 15th century, towards the end of their reign. It stands for a beautiful piece of history, but is also a symbol of an end to a dynasty. The city got raided, the Shirvanshahs were slaughtered, and their tombs desecrated and burned. That’s a bit of a grim thought to carry out of the Old City. It’ time for one thing I never thought I’d recommend to anyone. THE CARPET MUSEUM! I know it doesn’t sound exciting, but trust me on this one. The building was built in 2014 and it looks like a giant, rolled carpet. It’s awesome. The inside is also unique. You walk through a semi-tunnel and the exhibits are plastered along the curved walls.

Baku is featured on several “World’s Top 10 Nightlife” lists. A city that most people haven’t even heard about boasts the best nightlife? Yep. Nezami street is Baku’s main artery both during day and night. You know it’s a big deal when other countries have their embassies in the area. The architecture, the cafes; it’s as if you were in Paris. All the upscale shopping and eating earned Nizami the title of the most expensive street in the Caucasus. The actual clubs are spread around the city, some downtown, some along the seaside Neftchilar avenue. Nearby parks are also brimming with party people from dusk till dawn. Ask the locals about the Otto Club. It’s one of the oldest bars in Baku and already for decades the go-to spot for drinks and food.

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Vancouver city guide

Vancouver is spectacular. It’s as if the city was built from movie sets. It’s a wet dream for Instagrammers and home-grown photographers. Vancouver’s location is a big part of its appeal. The Pacific is to the west, mountains to the north and forests…all around, really. All that pristine nature is one of the reasons why Vancouver is one of the most liveable places on earth. The crystal-clear air is the first thing people notice here. I know talking about trees might not be the most exciting thing. But wait till you see a 1000-year-old great cedar: that might change your mind. Go see the Stanley Park if you’re short on time. Vancouver’s famous urban park is more of a weekend retreat but within the city. This is where the locals go for a morning jog. There are all sorts of activities you can partake in here. You got the beaches, hiking trails, and restaurants, even a golf course. It’s also a historical site where indigenous tribes live long before Canada was discovered. There are replicas of totem poles they used to carve. The original ones deteriorated over time, but the new ones are rather accurate. I always thought they’re just depictions of spirit animals. Truth is each totem tells a story and a pretty long one. They say that one such pole can amount to even 3 hours of storytelling.

The famous and elegant Suspension Bridge over Burrard Bay connecting Vancouver with the Western and Northern parts of the city; Vancouver's own Golden Gate Bridge

Exit the park on the northern side and you’ll have to cross the Lion’s Gate Bridge. You might recognize it from the Final Destination movie. The Lionsgate film company is named after this landmark. Capilano Suspension Bridge and Treetop Adventures are a bit further up north. I bet you’ve already seen both somewhere on the Internet: beautiful places, but certainly not for people with a fear of heights. You might even get to see the Grouse Mountain if you go high enough. That’s one of the three hills with ski tracks in the area. You can see the other two from downtown Vancouver especially when it’s dark. Cypress Mountain and Eagle Mountain are beautifully lit up during winter. Sit down at the harbour, grab a donut and enjoy the view. The place you’re probably around now is the only dock in Canada capable of servicing cruise ships.

Gastown is the main tourist area of Vancouver and it’s right next to the harbour. Locals say it’s 70% bullshit and 30% souvenir shops. I find it very charming and unique. Gastown is where it all started. It’s gotten its name from “Gassy” John Deighton, a steamboat captain who opened the first saloon in Vancouver. There’s a statue in his honour where the establishment used to stand. The Steam Clock is another major symbol of Gastown. Locals laugh that it’s the essence of how fake this place is. The clock isn’t powered by real steam and it’s not even old: just stylized. Check out the Diamond, Steamworks and the Portside Pub- some of the finest bars in Gastown. Food is also great, despite the “touristy” prices. Hit the Granville Island Market if you’re on a budget. You can get anything from burgers to fancy poutine: French fries topped with cheese curds and gravy. You cannot afford to miss on this classic Canadian dish originating from the Quebec region. Make sure you try local salmon. And the famous local donuts: the apple fritters, sweet Jesus!

Totem poles in in autumn foliage of Stanley Park in Vancouver

Stanley Park, one of the largest city parks in the world, an evergreen oasis; here you can see a wonderful collection of Indian totems

Make sure you steer clear of east downtown Vancouver. It’s full of junkies, homeless people, and lunatics. Visit Chinatown instead. There’s a long-lasting friendship between Canadians and the Chinese. Both nations bonded during the construction of the Canadian railway and World War 2. There are numerous statues depicting that connection spread around the Chinatown. It might not be the largest enclave of that kind, but it’s packed with interesting stuff to see. There’s the slightly underwhelming Dr. Sun Yat-Sen Classical Chinese Garden. It’s very cool and very Zen, but it’s also very crowded. There used to be koi fish swimming in the central pond. They say that a wild otter murdered most of them before the staff moved the survivors elsewhere. Vancouver’s Chinatown is also the place to go for all sorts of merchandise. Chinese medicine, good food and the cheapest t-shirts with god-knows-what written on them.

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Mumbai city guide

Indian comedians are my guilty pleasure. Not only they’re funny as hell, but they managed to achieve the impossible. Everyone jokes about their accent, right? I am sure you are familiar with the memes about Indian customer support employees. They turned those jokes into their greatest strength and that’s very admirable. That chaotic, happy-go-lucky attitude is apparent all over Mumbai. My generation resonates with Bombay more, but they changed the name to Mumbai in 1995. Bombay Hollywood? Bollywood? Rings a bell, right? Bollywood cinema appeals to worldwide audiences: from Latin America to Africa and from the Middle East to the Far East. My *cough* friend likes to download movies from torrent trackers. The sites crash every time a Bollywood production is leaked out by pirates. Indian movies always top the “most downloaded” charts. Yeah, I know it’s a weird way of judging the size of a country’s population. Actors who star in these productions have god status in Mumbai. Fans almost live outside of their mansions, waiting for their idols to come out and greet them. It’s a ridiculous, almost worship-like devotion.

King Shivaji museum in Mumbai with in front a statue of the Prince of Wales (Emperor George Vth)

The Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya (abbreviated CSMVS museum) and better known under its former name Prince of Wales Museum of Western India is the main and largest museum in Mumbai, its huge collection is divided in art, archaeological and natural history sections and the countless halls house art of Nepal and Tibet, European paintings, Mughal weapons, historical artifacts and much more

Slumdog Millionaire, the smash hit from 2008, introduced Mumbai to a wider audience. It’s an amazing story of a kid with no formal education winning the show. No one believed he knew the answers based on his past experiences. The movie masterfully pictured the relation between the rich and the poor. You think you’re in a slum and the next thing you see is a Bentley dealership. It’s so mixed up that it blows my mind. There are street food stands with all sorts of people lined up. Suited up yuppies, homeless people and kids. Everyone is in a queue for delicious rice flake breakfast pudding with a cup of cardamom coffee. Mumbai’s population is not only varied and colourful but also ridiculously big. You would not believe how dense it is. Think twice the population of London in half of the area. That’s Mumbai. I bet you’ve seen the infamous Indian trains and people riding on top of them. That’s real stuff; safety precautions are for pussies. Try crossing any street during rush hour if you’re looking for an adrenalin rush.

There’s another way if risking your life is not very appealing to you. Check out the Gateway of India; their very own victory arch. The Brits built it to celebrate their Queens’ first-ever visit to India. They didn’t make it in time. A cardboard dummy greeted the monarch in place of the basalt arch. How do you even make a full-size victory arch out of cardboard…? Anyway, it’s a popular spot among young Indians. There’s also a dock, from which you can book a ferry ride to the Elephanta Island. It’s Mumbai’s major religious landmark and World Heritage Site. Some even call it a city, but it's a series of temples sculpted into a cave system. Academic sources estimate that the system was completely around 550 CE, but there are signs of even older human presence. They worshipped Shiva here, one of the main deities of Hinduism. It’s a real shame that most of those beautiful sculptures are damaged. Chipped off faces, lacking an arm or two, but you see the effort they put into hammering all that into basalt.

View of Gateway of India from the water with at the backdrop the Taj Mahal Palace and Tower Hotel

The Gateway of India was built in honor of the arrival of King George V and his spouse Queen-Empress Mary in Mumbai in 1911, which was the first British monarch visit to India, from the waterfront where you have a beautiful view over the Arabian Sea you can book a boat trip, the Triumphal arch is Mumbai's main tourist landmark and often referred to as the Taj Mahal of Mumbai

Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus is also a popular tourist magnet in Mumbai. Not only because it’s a train station, but because it’s one of the most beautiful ones in the world. It’s not what you’re expecting; it looks more like a royal palace. This imposing architectural wonder was built in 1887 and named *drumrolls* Victoria Station. I bet people got knighted, received titles for calling stuff Victoria. Must have been an age of proper brownnosing. You’ll notice the massive number of people that travel by train daily. I bet you’ve seen those clips of Tokyo metro: the ones with the station staff struggling to push everyone inside? That’s easy mode compared to Mumbai. Tourists are often advised on taking one of the first-class wagons. Those aren’t near as crowded as the regular ones. VT looks especially impressive after dark; it lights up like the iconic Disney Castle. Entire Mumbai does, it's almost a different city at night. Take a cab to the Juhu beach, sit back and witness Bombay from a new perspective. The view of lit up skyscrapers reflecting in the water is unforgettable.

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Brisbane city guide

People call Brisbane the most boring city in Australia. I don’t think those people know what they’re talking about. Brisbane is far from boring, it’s ordinary. It is a bit of a jack-of-all-trades. So be prepared to find stunning parks and urban beaches, great nightlife and art galleries, shopping and extraordinary nature outside of the city. Wildfires have recently been devouring that beautiful fauna and flora all across Queensland and New South Wales. The fire department is struggling to contain this disaster, but there’s only so little you can do against a raging inferno. It’s horror, especially all the photographs of animals. The bright side to this tragedy is that nature will heal and life will regrow. Trying to look at the bigger picture here, but I’m aware that it’s easy to say from another continent. Especially when it’s not Brisbane’s first experience with giant conflagration. The Great Fire of Brisbane took place on December 1st, 1864. It only raged for a little over two hours, but it destroyed more than 50 buildings. Think about the damage that is currently happening with the fires burning for weeks across Australian forests.

View of City Hall and King George Square in Brisbane with a plane flying over them

Brisbane today is a curious mix of a modern metropolis with a colonial city, the historic center is King George Square; here stands the majestic City Hall with a tall clock tower – Brisbane`s own Big Ben

Brisbane was founded around 30 years before the Great Fire. I can only empathize with those people. Migrate to a penal colony, establish a city, build yourself a house and business just to watch it burn down in a fire. I digress. Brisbane turned out great, as it is the third-largest city in Australia, population-wise. I already mentioned a few things about it, but what makes it a major tourist destination? What makes it stand out? Brisbane River is this city’s lifeline. That’s where you’ll find some of the best hangouts, bars, and restaurants. That’s also where you’ll have to dodge the constant stream of people on electric scooters. Why are those even a thing? I mean: don’t we have a worldwide obesity epidemic? Just walk or rent a bike. Enjoy it and take the sights in, as the weather in Brisbane is great 300 days a year. The Story Bridge is often the first stop for tourists. You can book a walking tour and climb the upper part of the construction. The view of the city during sunset is something worth the trouble. Did you expect a Story Bridge story? Too bad: there is no story.

Mount Coot-tha is a better choice when it comes to views. It’s more of a larger hill, to be honest. Aboriginal tribes called it the One Tree Hill and ventured here to collect honey. There are a lot of landmarks packed into such an unusual suburban area. The Lookout is on top of it. There’s a terrace, a restaurant, and a gift shop. Perfect spot to relax after a long hike, but keep moving before you start feeling the calluses. You can drive up there if you don’t feel like walking. The road up there reminds me of the Mulholland Drive. There are also the Botanical Gardens and a Planetarium. I don’t believe it’s possible to see everything Mount Coot-tha has to offer in one day. Then there’s the bay with its own share of marvellous sights. Moreton Bay is a destination for all kinds of positively crazy people. You can take the ferry to the opposite end of it and you’ll arrive on Moreton Island. That’s where people go for the weekends; around 50km away from Brisbane. You can take part in some really cool activities. There aren’t many places in the world where you can sled down sand dunes. Snorkelling among shipwrecks and chilling on the beaches are viable options as well.

Kangaroos on the beach of Bribie Island near Brisbane

Bribie Island is popular holiday resort island located 69 km north of Brisbane; the perfect place to relax for the whole family as well as for sports enthusiasts interested in fishing, boating, golfing, bushwalking or surfing

Go back to Brisbane and gasp at the contrast between the two sides of the bay. The once unremarkable city will seem like something out of the Jetsons. Notice the murals and the art galleries. All those organic coffee shops and hip breweries: are those even “hipster” anymore? I think we need a new buzzword for that stuff. It’s not really off-culture, unique or hip when it’s in every city in every country. Don’t get me started on craft beers, god I hate that stuff. The truth is you could spend your entire stay around the riverside. Hang around the outstanding South Bank Parklands or relax at the Streets Beach. It’s open all year round and it’s pretty awesome for an urban beach. I admit it is a bit small but at least you don’t have to bathe in the river water. Queen Street is where you go for the big city vibe and shopping because every Australian city needs a Queen Street. Make sure to stop by the Brisbane Arcade. You might notice the native aborigines playing their instruments practically begging for money. There’s something terribly depressing about that picture.

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Glasgow city guide

Glasgow stands out as a city of stark, hardworking people. That describes Scotland in general, but this particular city has a distinct industrial feel to it. I love it. Things don’t peacefully “flow” in Glasgow, things plow through like a tank. It’s dark, loud, indelicate and uniquely beautiful. It’s the kind of place that nourishes a melancholic talent. Franz Ferdinand and Mogwai; both bands started out in Glasgow. So did Grant Morrison, whom I consider an amazing artist. He’s not a musician though; he’s a comic book author. He worked on my all-time favourites like the Hellblazer and Doom Patrol, among many others. Morrison is also a bit of an occult philosopher. He can go on for hours about how our perception of reality is similar to comic book pages. Nerd alert! Enough of my babbling. Take a walk around Glasgow and see what pushes its people to extraordinary deeds. It’s a wild ride.

If you want to plunge into the atmosphere of the Middle Ages, then you should visit the University of Glasgow; founded in the 15th century, it is one of the oldest universities in the world

There is no better place to learn about a city than its cemeteries. The one in Glasgow is on par with the most beautiful European necropolises. I’d say it’s symbolic even. Bridge of Sighs, one of the main entree ways is a monument by itself. It was built over the Molendinar Burn, a settlement laid fundaments down for Glasgow. The cemetery rests on a hill. Getting to the top takes a little bit of effort. It’s worth the trip; the view is stunning. It’s a place of treasure hunters and thrill-seekers. People are obsessed with these old Victorian cemeteries. They think there are Masonic secrets waiting to be discovered. Mausoleums of Glasgow’s former rich and famous are the most interest part. They are the founding fathers of the city, so to speak.

Toolbooth Steeple clock tower at Trongate street in Glasgow

Trongate street is one of the oldest streets of Glasgow and the former city center in the Middle Ages, Toolbooth Steeple tower on the same street is one the towers marking Glasgow's impressive skyline

The wealthy merchants, shipwrights and the Tobacco Lords (aka the tobacco dons): those guys were businessmen through and through. They got the cheap stuff from English colonies and held all tobacco trade in their grasp. That allowed them to amass such wealth that they practically became nobles. They built mansions and churches that defined Glasgow’s architectural style. You know, like all this old concrete stuff that always looks damp and dirty? William Cunninghame's mansion is one of such buildings. It currently functions as the Gallery of Modern Art. There is a district called The Merchant City in Glasgow filled with that kind of stuff. Even the famous Buchanan Road is named after one of the Tobacco Lords. Anticipate upscale shops, restaurants, that kind of stuff.

Most of the really old stuff is centred around the Glasgow Cathedral. St Mungo Museum of Religious Life and Art is located on the same grounds. They claim to be the only religious-focused public museum in the world. There’s a charming Zen garden with stones that look like they remember the Celtic times. Provand's Lordship is the oldest house on the opposite side of the street and was built in 1471. There’s a museum inside if you’re curious how people lived in medieval times. Seeing these almost 600 years old structures standing next to an asphalt street feels weird. I have to admit though that the courtyard leading to the Cathedral is awesome. Celtic Connection Festival is something to consider if you’re interested in traditional/folk Scotland.

The Lighthouse Building is a former Glasgow Herald headquarters. It was designed by Charles Rennie Mackintosh, the famous Scottish architect. Nowadays it functions as the Centre for Design and Architecture and a charming space for creative individuals. You can climb the tower for a great view of the city as well. Hop on the Glasgow Subway and head for West End for some fun. Even the subway is a landmark, it’s the third oldest in the world. They got those cute, tiny stations and trains move in a circular raceway kind of a track. Once in West End, inhale a giant whiff of that familiar stale ale and formalin stench. This is the university district, packed with knowledge, museums and cool restaurants. Dig a bit deeper and you’ll end up in Finnieston, the hip central. The Ox and Finch restaurant comes highly recommended as an accessible high dining venue. That’s code for “posh, but still chill”. Don’t miss the nearby Clydeside Distillery. It’s not only a well of knowledge about scotch whiskey, but also a valuable part of Glasgow’s rich history.

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Sochi city guide

Sochi gained international popularity thanks to the 2014 Winter Olympics. Truth is, it has always been a major destination for the Russians. It’s the country’s only large beach resort. Sochi is huge and there’s much more to it than rocky beaches. The climate in this region is unique. You can take a bath in the Black Sea or one of many pools, or hike in the mountains. The Eagle Rocks is an example of a trail with amazing views. There’s a sort of a monastery tower you can climb and watch Sochi from a different perspectives. They say the tower is haunted. The mountain area is a very mystical place. Some people believe that this is where Zeus chained Prometheus to a rock. The Dolmens are a particularly interesting thing around the coast of the Black Sea. They are eerie, stone structures that predate the Egyptian pyramids. They haven’t been researched much. No one knows what they’re supposed to be. Locals call them “the Dwarf Houses” because of the round holes in them. Definitely they are not big enough for a human being to fit in. I think Dolmens are shrines to some obscure pre-Christian gods. Either way, people are actively looking for them. Some say they replenish their “spiritual energy”.

Statue of Neptune with pigeons on his crown at a Sochi beach against backdrop of Black Sea

The statue of Neptune at the beach in Sochi is immensly popular with tourists, sitting to the backdrop of the Black Sea it is without doubts Sochi's most photographed sculpture

There’s so much variety and beautiful nature here. The mountainous Sochi and the seaside part are like black and white: completely different cities. It’s the most amazing ski resort during winter with over 25 km of tracks. Other activities like paragliding and rope parks are quite popular. They also offer some of the best hotels and spas in the region. Meeting Russian celebrities is very much possible in Sochi, if you know any. The seaside resembles something between Monte Carlo and Jersey Shore. Beaches are probably not what you’re expecting. The coastline here stretches over 150 kilometres and it’s stunning. The only thing I strongly disagree with are private beaches next to hotels. I think it’s bullshit that you can’t access those unless you’re a guest or paid for a pass. I know that it’s a standard approach in many resorts, but it doesn’t sit right with me. Beaches between Sochi and Adler to the south are free. They’re not as crowded either and hawkers won’t bother you. The downside is that they’re so rocky. Sunbathing on a mountain of pebbles is pretty uncomfortable. The beaches of Dagomys, north from central Sochi are a bit sandier. Some of them are private but the main one is open to the public.

Mountainslopes in Rosa Khutor Alpine resort in Sochi

Rosa Khutor is a year-round mountain resort in the southern region of Sochi; considered by many the best ski resort in Russia; during the Olympic Games in 2014 its steep slopes were the setting of 30 sets of medals in alpine skiing and snowboarding

The Riviera Park is what reminds of Jersey Shore. It’s a bit of everything: a boardwalk, an oceanarium, and a botanical garden. People enjoy hanging out there, playing sports or working out. On the beach you will also find street workout equipment, which became quite popular in the past few years and are also a pretty common sight at many beaches in Europe nowadays. There’s even an amusement park with vintage rides. You should check the Sochi Park if that’s something you’re into. People call it the Russian Disneyland, but it’s more like budget Disneyland. They have all the cool rides, a dolphinarium, and all that stuff. But there is no distinct theme to it and lacks that elusive “something”. Experience the Monte Carlo of Sochi in the yacht marina right beside the Riviera Beach. Many of those boats are the pride and joy of Russian multi-millionaires. All the supercars in that parking lot also leave a lasting impression.

The Olympic Village is a cool place to explore. You know how those mostly become ghost towns when the events are over? They took it to another level in Sochi. There’s a cemetery dating back to 1915 next to the skating palace. Imagine coaches motivating their trainees: “See those graves? This is where you’ll end if you keep f***ing around!”. Jokes aside, I like the fact that it’s still a lively part of the city. They even have a functional Formula One racing track. Visit the Winter Theatre if high culture events are your cup of tea. Experience famous Russian ballet, or goose bumps-inducing opera performances. You might not be able to buy tickets in season, but there’s a cool bar in the basement. They brew some amazing beer there and serve it with fried dark bread. I know it doesn’t sound that great, but fried bread is the bomb. The added benefit is that you can listen to what’s happening upstairs. Sochi is the most expensive city in Russia; you do what you gotta do for free entertainment.

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Dubrovnik city guide

There is one essential thing you need to pack for your trip to Dubrovnik: a pair of really good sunglasses. Not only to look fabulous but to protect your eyesight. This city is dazzling. And I don’t mean the glamour; it is actually very bright. Some call it the Pearl of the Adriatic and I can see why. The light beams from the waves reflect straight onto Dubrovnik’s white walls. It’s like an underwater scene from the Little Mermaid. These are not simple fortifications. These walls have survived innumerable volleys of cannonballs over the years. Even ground-splitting earthquakes or devastating civil wars during the breakup of former Yugoslavia were not enough to take it all down. Dubrovnik can you give a sense of perpetual déjà vu, especially if you’re a fan of Game of Thrones. Yes, this is where they shot dozens of the famous HBO series. Remember when it was a contender for the show of the decade? Before the final season happened?

Dubrovnik: the 'Pearl of the Adriatic'; the medieval walled port city is placed on UNESCO's list of world heritage sights since 1979 and considered the most beautiful city of Croatia and even entire former Yugoslavia

You’ll recognize some key sights even from a distance. Like the Bokar Fortress, which I prefer to call the “Bottle Cap Fortress” or the “Marshmallow Castle”. It looks almost surreal, but it was an essential structure during the city’s defence against enemy forces. The fort appeared in a couple of scenes in the GoT show. Notice the holes in the walls? Soldiers used those to fire guns from within the fortress. Bokar is the world’s oldest fort with that kind of utility. Fort Lovrijenac is the most famous military structure of Dubrovnik. It stands on a massive cliff and is…imposing. You might recognize it as the Red Keep from the series, though I admit I couldn’t tell at first. It’s a very interesting building, almost designed as a death trap. Outer walls, the ones facing the sea are 12 meters thick, while the ones towards the city are paper-thin. They could blow it to pieces in case the enemy would occupy it. Cool stuff. Climb a tower; look directly below and you’ll see the West Harbor. That’s my favourite part of the city by far. It used to be a very quiet area where you could relax sitting on the pier, cooling your feet in the water. Now it’s a pilgrimage site for GoT fans. Blackwater, one of the shows best episodes was filmed here.

The best thing about Dubrovnik is that everything serves as a stage for artists during the Dubrovnik Summer Festival. The entire city comes to life during to sounds of folk music and theatre plays. Stages pop up everywhere and most squares and streets are packed with people. Even the Crkva Svetog Vlaha, a beautiful Baroque church, becomes an art venue. Sveti Vlaho or St. Blaise is the patron saint of Dubrovnik. Locals commemorate him during a feast held on the 3rd of February when they throw a parade and a huge party. Haven’t seen a feast though, maybe those are exclusive events. Orlando’s Column is a monument that connects both festivals. Two flags are placed on top of it, one following the Summer Festival and one after St. Blaise. Orlando is a hero of legend, who supposedly saved Dubrovnik saved the city from Saracen siege. We now know that it’s historically false and the statue is just a dud. The guy also has an unusually large head; I guess the sculptor messed up the proportions.

View over Dubrovnik bay and Lokrum Island at the Adriatic Sea

The mountainous Dalmatian coastline offers stunning views over the old city of Dubrovnik and the neayby isles; Lokrum Island is a real natural park, a green oasis within a 15-minute boat trip from Dubrovnik where you can relax from the hectic atmosphere of the city, sunbathe and marvel at the many peacocks walking around

Stradun is the main street here and the city’s artery. What made it earn such a title? Long ago it wasn’t even a street. It was a canal back in the day when Dubrovnik was a small island city. They eventually filled it in and now it goes through the middle of the Old Town. Stradun is only 300 meters long, but gets VERY crowded in season. It looks and feels like an actual canal, but with people in place of water. Especially during evenings when people pre-game before a night out it gets extremely busy. Partying in Dubrovnik is an unforgettable experience. The architecture here is particular; there aren’t many spacious buildings. That’s fine with me really; I’d rather go to a cosy pub than a neon-ridden mammoth of a dance floor. Okay, there is one that I like, but it’s a very special kind of club. It’s located in the Revelin Fort in the eastern part of Dubrovnik. I have a soft spot for those kinds of venues. Cold brick walls, candle-lit dungeons; you never know what kind of secrets are waiting to be disclosed. Hit the Copacabana Beach and Club for an after party and marvel at the sunrise following the best night of your life. Don’t miss out on the Lokrum island located 600m away from the city. I’ll just say it’s not without reason that they called it The Love Island. Dubrovnik might have gained fame because of Games of Thrones, but it was always worth visiting. I suppose it was hard to break through all the giants of tourism around the Adriatic.

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Jakarta city guide

Jakarta isn’t a city that makes the best first impression. Not even the second-best impression. Indonesia’s capital is a rapidly growing city, but not in a good way. Its population is estimated at around 10 million people. Locals say it doubles during mornings when people commute to work. That is a lot of people in a place with terrible infrastructure. Think about all the garbage they generate. The administration has no means of processing all that waste. It has flaws and issues of its own. See, Indonesia declared independence in 1949 and went through a streak of lousy governments. Most presidents were involved in some kind of a scandal, but Suharto was in a different league. That guy was allegedly the most corrupt politician in modern history. He established a military dictatorship and ruled for over 31 years. During that time, he managed to embezzle something between 15 and 30 billion dollars. He also launched a campaign to purge communists from Indonesia. That was basically a mass murder of random people. Despite all that he still led his nation to a relative prosperity. They’re even considering granting him the status of national hero. Joko Widodo is the current president and all-around awesome guy. He declared he will move the capital from Jakarta to a new site on Borneo. Why? Garbage isn’t their only issue. The city has been built on a swamp and is sinking 15cm every year. I imagine it will snowball soon and sink before we know it. Then again, I’m no expert on sinking cities.Experience the “glitter and the gutter” of Jakarta while it’s still there. Java was the main colony and sit of power of the Dutch East India Company, it went by Batavia then. The Dutch governors’ former office is now home to Batavia Café. Their bar won Newsweek’s “Best Bar in the World” award in 1996. Something I wouldn’t mind traveling to another hemisphere for. Stroll around the square it’s located on, surrounded by beautiful colonial architecture. Visit the Jakarta History Museum in the Old Town Hall, one of the oldest buildings in the city. There are all sorts of unpleasant stories to be told, like the briefly mentioned massacre of Chinese people. Gedung Pertunjukan Wayang Orang Bharata should be your first stop for a taste of Javanese tradition. In my opinion, it looks and sounds Chinese but what do I know. They wear that over-the-top makeup and clothes, dance and sing around the stage. Those actors live and breathe theatrical arts. Literally. Entire generations of performers have lived on site for decades. They give birth, live, eat and sleep there, no wonder they’re so good at their art. The word Wayang stands for shadow theatre, like finger shadows but with puppets. There’s even the Dirgantara Monument dedicated to that spectacle. I think it looks like Willem Dafoe as the Green Goblin in Spider-Man.

Facade in Balinese style of the Indonesia Museum in Jakarta

The Indonesia Museum located in Taman Mini Indonesia Indah, the recreational park in East Jakarta, has a huge collection of art and cultural pieces from all regions of the Indonesian archipel

Jakarta closes down for car traffic and opens up to pedestrians on Sundays. Only morning until noon but it’s still huge for a city so plagued by traffic jams. It’s also the best time to do some sightseeing on foot. You can find the best stuff within the walking distance from Monas, the National Monument. It’s that giant torch with a plastic flame. Two important places of worship are on the opposite side of the surrounding park. The humongous Istiqlal Mosque was built to celebrate Indonesia’s long-awaited independence. It’s the largest in South-East Asia and it reminded me of Vatican for some reason. St. Mary of the Assumption Cathedral stands besides the Mosque. It’s your average neo-gothic church, but its true value is symbolic. Indonesia was and still is a thoroughly Muslim country. A Christian temple standing here like that is the greatest testament of how powerful was the grasp of Dutch East India Company over South Asia.

Colourful bikes parked on Fatahillah Square in Jakarta's charming Old Town (Kota Tua Jakarta)

On Fatahillah Square (Indonesian: Taman Fatahillah) in Jakarta's Old Town (Kota Tua Jakarta) you can still feel the vibe of the colonial times when the Dutch ruled Indonesia

Monas also marks the city centre of Jakarta. It’s where people shop in malls and party in modern clubs, it’s the glitter. The further you get from the monument the more guttery it gets, and also the more interesting. Upscale shops are replaced by farmers markets, clubs by seedy bars. Try to avoid buying meat at the markets. The smell should be enough of a hint that they have no refrigeration in this heat and humidity. Hygiene aside, people say that Jakarta is catching up to Singapore when it comes to the food scene. Sambal and Nasi Goreng have already become familiar tastes to western audience. My first and last trip to Indonesia (Java and Bali) is already long time ago and I still treasure the memories as one of my best holidays ever: the warm-hearted people, the majestic temples, the breath-taking beautiful nature; especially the volcanoes. It was all in all a mind-blowing experience. But most of all I can recall the unbelievable richness of the local food. Already for breakfast we got the tastiest satay (sate in Indonesian): skewered and grilled meat with peanut sauce, and other heavenly stuff. Luckily enough, when living in the Netherlands, you have an Indonesian restaurant around every corner. So I can still enjoy this wonderful cuisine so now and then. Step outside of the city and you’ll discover goodies not for the faint of heart. That is a problem in Indonesia. People are eating so much “game meat” they’ve endangered several species. Rats, bats, dogs, snakes, everything you can catch in the jungle. You can buy some of that questionable stuff in bush meat markets if you’re feeling adventurous. Don’t count on any pork though; it’s still a Muslim country.

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Santo Domingo city guide

The Dominican Republic recently became a major honeymoon destination. I lost track of how many happy couples I removed from my Facebook feed the past two years. That island is a paradise, there’s no denying that. Don’t let your Facebook friends fool you though; there’s much more to it than beaches and hammocks. 2019 wasn’t the best year for DR’s tourism industry. There have been over 16 reported deaths and everything sounds a bit fishy, to say the least. People have been falling ill overnight and dying of unknown causes. The Dominican government insisted that the bodies be cremated instead of shipped to their home countries. Some people have reported missing organs. The case has become a bit of a viral urban legend at this point. Watch your back and avoid drinking cocktails from uncertain sources. It’s a beautiful country and the travel is worth every penny but maybe wait until this “incident” gets cleared out.

Santo Domingo was the first bastion of civilization during the 15th century exploration of the New World. Christopher Columbus’ brother Bartholomew founded this city. You could say it is the family’s bona fide legacy. It was also the first place to “welcome” the African slaves to the New World. They made them work on many a sugar cane plantation. That, as history dictates, led to uprisings. The Dominican Republic went through quite a few of those. Not to mention wars, battles for independence and disgusting dictatorship. Noticed all those streets with American names? That’s when the US stepped in to calm things down and install some freedom. You can learn more about those revolting times at the Memorial Museum of Dominican Resistance. It showcases even the torture chambers and tools: a painful reminder that dictatorships are not cool.

Parque Colon in Santo Domingo with Cathedral and Columbus statue visited by flock of pingeons

The always alive Parque Colon, previously known as the Plaza Mayor, is a park and square in the very centre of the historical Ciudad Colonial district of Santo Domingo

Santo Domingo took all that surprisingly well and remains a beautiful capital. The entire colonial part of the city is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Plaza de España is one of its more important landmarks. It’s not only a social gathering ground and a space for cultural events, but also a valuable historical treasure. Alcázar de Colón overlooking the square is home to the largest collection of colonial art in the Caribbean. Diego Columbus, the explorers’ son lived in this mansion. I wouldn’t call it beautiful. It looks like a brick, but it’s still a piece of history. Makes you think that we’re lacking that sort of exceptional people in our age. They even built the first sewer system in the New World. I wouldn’t tell people to go and explore the sewers but these are something else. They are fully bricked out, looking more like a dungeon or catacombs. They closed them down in 2016, but fingers crossed they’ll reopen the thing for tourists in future. The fortifications along the Ozama river are yet another “first in the New World”. I can’t help being impressed by these things. They landed on a completely unexplored land and built a city from scratch. All the manpower, all the resources they had to procure. It’s mind-blowing spectacular stuff.

Palacio Consistorial in the Ciudad Colonial district of Santo Domingo bathing in warm sunlight

The Palacio Consistorial, located in the Colonial City (Ciudad Colonial) of Santo Domingo, is located where was once the oldest Town Hall in the Americas

People say that Dominicans are rather high on the booze intake. Apparently, the employees of sugar cane farms and rum distilleries have a hard time saying no to a drink during work. Driving under the influence is not uncommon; take extra care if you see a wonky vehicle. Caribbean people take life a little too easy at times. They do love their rum despite the grim history tied to it. Now it’s a big part of their tourism: tastings, museums, that kind of stuff. Barceló has an amazing historic centre located in San Pedro, about an hour drive from Santo Domingo. It’s also one of the best rums in the world. Cubans would argue otherwise, as they would with cigars. This islands’ incredibly fertile soil nourishes the arguably best tobacco in the world. That coupled with generations worth of expertise equals some world-class cigars. You’re probably thinking: “What about Cuba? Don’t they take the crown?” Truth is that many families have left Cuba for DR when Fidel took over. You could say it is a bit of a joint effort now when it comes to cigars. Santo Domingo comes alive during night, that’s the best time to try everything this island has to offer. Avenida Venezuela and Avenida Abraham Lincoln are the main streets when it comes to Santo Domingo’s nightlife.

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Tbilisi city guide

“Tbilisi!” gurgled the hideous creature as it slithered through a narrow corridor. “Tbilisi!!!” roared from its innumerable maws when it bared its fangs! …I’m just messing around. But to my humble opinion Tbilisi sounds a bit like a monster from a Lovecraftian horror. A name straight out of an ancient scripture, or an arcane spell. A Dothraki battle shout from Game of Thrones? I could go on like this forever. The truth is much more mundane. It’s the capital of Georgia, the one in the eastern hemisphere. It’ located at the intersection between Europe and Asia. Tbilisi is very unusual, almost as if someone invented it during a dream. Legend has it that the area was discovered by King Vakhtang I of Iberia during a hunting trip. He smelled something funny and realized it was a natural hot spring, one of a sulphuric kind that stinks like hell itself. He went on and built Tbilisi in that one spot that reeks of rotten eggs. The capital developed rapidly thanks to its proximity to the Silk Road. Thousands of wealthy merchants passed through here, some opted to stay. It was not only a centre for money in the region but also a place for a tremendous cultural exchange. That also made it a target for different military empires. Tbilisi went through many sieges by forces such as the Romans and Turks to – until rather recently – Soviet occupation.

Metekhi church and typical Georgian style houses located on the edge of a cliff above the river Kura in Tbilisi

The Kura river, which originates in Turkey and flows into the Caspian Sea, runs through the historical centre of Tbilisi; in Georgian language the river is called Mtkvari, which means "Good Water"

Experience that mish-mash of cultures in Tbilisi’s Old Town. It looks like you smashed a Turkish town, a small Italian village an Tibet in one area. They built it on top of a ravine overlooking a beautiful waterfall and a wooden bridge. Look further uphill and you’ll notice the Narikala Fortress, easy to spot at night when it’s illuminated. Parts of it have been standing there since the 4th century. Getting to the top can be a bit of a life-threatening endeavour, but the view is worth it. Walk back down to burn extra calories. Now you can take a dip in the legendary hot springs to rinse all that sweat off. They built magnificent underground baths like the ones in Rome or Turkey. It’s more of a spa treatment; you can have a massage and all sorts of pampering before the main event. They say that the water is great for skin, digestive, sleep and against impotence. I’m not convinced since none of that has been scientifically proven. Also, I’m not sure about a bath after which you need another bath to get rid of the smell.

There are many examples of Soviet style architecture in Tbilisi. Most of it is currently abandoned and that only adds to the creepy tone of those buildings. You’ll be seeing concrete apartment blocks everywhere. But some stand out like the ones in Saburtalo district. Those look like buildings from the “High Rise” movie. They’re linked to one another with steel bridges, which look like they could fall apart at any moment. Then there’s the former Ministry of Transportation building, now the Bank of Georgia. To be honest, it looked better when it was abandoned. They call it a marvel of Soviet architecture but in my opinion it looks like a stack of Duplo blocks put together by an infant. Archeology Museum is a short drive out of a town and it’s unreal. It resembles a giant tomb or a mausoleum. You can book a tour of this and many more abandoned buildings. Be cautious in case you want to enter them. Keep in mind that they’re sometimes not as abandoned as they may seem. Squatters, junkies and homeless people like to hang out in those.

Clock Tower of Rezo Gabriadze Marionette Theate In Tbilisi's Old Town

The clock tower built by Rezo Gabriadze in 2010, next to the marionette theatre in Tbilisi charming's Old Town: every hour an angel pops up to ring the bell with a hammer

You’ll see a lot of Stalin memorabilia around since he was born in Georgia. Walk around the weekend market and you’ll notice people selling tons of interesting stuff. Gas masks, military decorations, swords, jewellery, and glassware, whatever comes to your mind can be bought. Actually everything an Eastern European babushka could find in her cabinet is for sale here. The Museum of Stalin Propaganda is the best thing ever. An older guy who doesn’t speak English runs the place. He used to be pretty high up the Georgian Communist Party ranks and he’s a fountain of knowledge. The printing press at the times the Bolsheviks had not seized power yet was like 15m underground. They had to climb down a well to get to it. There was a tunnel a few centimetres above the water, which led to another tunnel with a ladder. Then they had to crawl into the actual printing room. You can say what you want about Communists or revolutionaries in general but they did not go for the easy way usually. There’s a staircase now but the guide will sign language you through all the juicy details.

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