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Burgas city guide

Every time people talk about Burgas they sound like they have a gun pointed at them. It’s like in those mental health institutions in the movies. You have to say: everything is fine; otherwise you will get electrocuted. “Burgas is so peaceful, there is no crime, no drugs. The cost of living is very low and the city is beautiful. I would say it’s the most European city in Bulgaria: very prosperous and clean. We’re having so much fun here and we made so many friends. This park is the best park I’ve ever seen. Life is great!” Stockholm syndrome at its finest. Jokes aside, Burgas is exactly like that: a giant retirement home. That is a good comparison as many Europeans decide to spend their golden years here. Burgas is cheap and quiet with the bonus of being a sea resort. The climate is not too hot during summer and not too cold during winters. It’s also not as rowdy as the Golden Sands. Unfortunately, the one exceptional thing about this city is that it is home to the largest oil refinery in the Balkans. Oh yeah, the seafood is amazing too. That’s it. It’s by no means the second Dubai. Burgas is just a humble port town that’s slowly realizing its touristic potential.

Burgas provides great opportunities to explore some nearby charming old town. So many people do a daytrip to Sozopol, located 20 kilometres south from Burgas. It is supposed to be the oldest town at the Black Sea coast and has many interesting historical sites such as the Southern Fortress Wall, the Archeological Museum and several picturesque churches. It should not take you more than half an hour to get there by bus or car. But let’s say you’re stuck in Burgas for some reason: what are your options? Well, you can explore. It’s not a large city so you can traverse it on foot or on a bike. Saints Cyril and Methodius Cathedral is the main church in Burgas. Those two guys are known as the creators of the Slavonic/Early Cyrillic alphabet. The temple itself is one of the most beautiful in the Balkans. There are three museums in Burgas that are worth checking out. The Archeological Museum with its collection of artefacts from different eras. It’s small, but it has some interesting stuff on the exhibition. For example, jewellery looted from a recently uncovered Roman cemetery outside of the city. The Ethnographical Museum showcases different tools people used to fish in these waters. The Natural Science Museum has a collection of various specimens of local fauna and flora. If nature is what you’re after then you should take a trip to Burgas Lakes. There is an option to book a guided boat ride; you can take a pair of binoculars for bird watching too.

Southern Fortress Wall in Sozopol near Burgas

Only half an hour by car from Burgas and you are in Sozopol; it's a favorite bohemian vacation spot and sometimes called the Black Sea Saint Tropez, where you can find interesting historical sites such as the Southern Fortress Wall

The main issue is that Burgas is a bit boring. There are neighbouring towns with more stuff to do and things to see. Nesebâr, within a visible distance from Burgas is such a place. It’s a tiny island dotted with medieval churches and Roman ruins. The Church of Saint Sofia, or what remains of it is a major tourist magnet. The building is decrepit and abandoned, but you get the feeling that it used to be something magical. This tiny island was home to almost 80 churches and chapels back in the day. Perhaps people thought they needed heavenly protection against something lurking in the Black Sea? Nesebâr was a major religious site, already around the year 500 BC. Sadly, all those temples have been flooded when the water levels rose. I bet the area is a promised land for treasure hunters.

Saint Sofia church in Nesebar near Burgas

The half-ruined oldest church in Bulgaria, Saint Sofia, is located in the ancient seaside town Nesebar (also referred to as Nessebar), close to Burgas

Sunny Beach, as the name suggests, is the cookie-cutter beach. Some even compare it to Cancun or the Spanish Riviera and it’s up to par with both. You won’t have any trouble communicating in English here. I only mention this because it’s not so obvious in Burgas. The only downside is that everything is seasonal oriented. Nevertheless, during those few months you can have the time of your life here as the hottest clubs and beach bars in Bulgaria are in Sunny Beach. You will come across crowds of loud, drunk kids on every step. I know it’s something I avoid nowadays, so if I would rather go back to Burgas for a more relaxing nightlife. Aleko Bogoridi is the main boulevard here. It’s where you can shop for anything from souvenirs to designer clothes. All the decent restaurants are also located along that street. The Maritime Park and the beach come to life during summer. That park is almost a city of its own with parties, street food stands, and bars. The beach is a little disappointing though and used mostly by the locals and the occasional windsurfer.

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Brno city guide

You’d think that Brno is some fancy abbreviation, like for “Best Refrigerated Nut Oatmeal”. Sounds delicious, but it’s not an abbreviation. That tongue-twisting name belongs to Prague’s main rival, although not a real competitor for the crown of Czechia’s main tourism destination. Some people say that Brno is boring. I think it just caters to a different audience. I’d say it’s more of a school trip city. A compact area you can explore in a day of intense sightseeing. Everyone says that Villa Tugendhat is something everyone should see. This place is where the break-up of Czechoslovakia was finalized. The villa is nice, the garden is blissful, but it’s still just a house. Doesn’t strike me as Brno’s top landmark that it’s being advertised as. I’m sure it holds a special place in Czech peoples’ hearts, though. Špilberk Castle (unrelated to the famous director) might be a better pick for foreigners. It’s one of 2000 castles located in the Czech Republic. That is a lot of castles and three of them are in Brno. It has served the rulers of Moravia for centuries. Not only that, Špilberk played an important role during the Thirty Years’ War against the Swedes. It functioned as a fortress with a prison and an elaborate torture “studio”. Nowadays, the castle is more a venue for artistic events with a great view of the Old Town. That’s usually where all the cool stuff is.

Freedom Square (Namesti Svobodi) in Brno

Freedom Square in Brno (Namesti Svobody) is the largest in the city; formed due to the intersection of trade routes, the square has the shape of a triangle

The Town Hall, not far from the picturesque Freedom Square (Namesti Svobody) is a good place to start exploring Brno. It’s that eerily illuminated building that stands out when it gets dark. A large taxidermied crocodile is hanging from the ceiling right at the entrance. Why? It passed as the Dragon of Brno for centuries. Brno, like any other respectable medieval city, needed a dragon. Not having a dragon was a faux pas back then. Someone came up with a story. It’s the usual fairy tale about a dragon living in a cave near the river. One day someone just arrived with this ridiculous crocodile corpse. He/she told everyone it’s a dragon and collected the bounty. People didn’t know any better; no one has seen a crocodile in these parts. It’s uncertain who even delivered the carcass. Some say it was the Templars. My first thought was one of those sewer alligator urban legends but then I realized we’re talking about Central Europe. There’s also a watchtower you can climb and look down towards the Old Town. This is also a great place to sit in one of the restaurants. Czech cuisine and Moravian wines are to-die-for.

The Cabbage Market is the name of the square next to the Town Hall. Farmers sold cabbage there, among other vegetables, and that’s where the name came from. All that food had to be stored somewhere and they didn’t have fridges in the middle ages. Tunnels below the square were built and expanded throughout the historic Brno. It’s like a giant cellar, where beer was brewed, barrels of wine aged, and people were tortured. The tunnels were reinforced in 2011 and are now open for exploration. The Cabbage market isn’t the only landmark with a cellar here. The Capuchin Monastery is a regular place of worship, with a library and the frescos and all the sacrum you’d expect. Walk down the stairs and you’ll see a bunch of mummified monks lying on the floor. I have mixed feelings about this kind of stuff. Should it be open for tourism? I don’t think I’d like that if it was me being a mummy down there.

Brno Observatory and Planetarium on Kraví hora during sunset

This complex looks more like a station for earthlings who landed on another planet than a city building; among the trees of the park in the center of Brno rise the domes of the planetarium and observatory, which GEO magazine included in the ten most beautiful in Europe

The macabre doesn’t end there. Take a walk north to St. Jacob’s Square; it’s not far. Archaeologists uncovered an ossuary below it some 400 years ago. It’s like the Paris Catacombs: entire walls of stacked human skeletons. Yes, it’s also open to the public. Don’t worry; there are less morbid sites to visit in Brno. The park on Kraví hora (Cow’s Hill) is such a pleasant spot, popular with locals for granting plenty of leisure time opportunities and splendid views over the city. There is a large sports complex with indoor and outdoor pools, volleyball courts, and dozens of playgrounds. People have picnics and barbeques on the slope during summer and use it for sledging in wintertime. Since 1954 the Brno Observatory and Planetarium stands out on the very top of the hill. Despite its age it is very modern and offers an interactive and entertaining science experience for the young and old. The venue includes an astronomical observation point, a planetarium, several telescopes and much more. Also from architectural perspective it is an interesting place. The functionalist building, reconstructed in 2010 and 2011, has a unique surface adorned with more than 8 million small holes. The design by architect Martin Rudiš, received a nomination for the prestigious Mies van der Rohe Award in 2013 and won a year before the Czech Construction Award.

One could think that astronomy is a typical feature of the city since the peculiarly shaped Astronomical Clock can be found downtown Brno on the Freedom Square. It has become a bit of a meme among the locals, as no one knows what it’s supposed to be about. There’s always a bunch of people sticking their hands inside it. It somehow measures time and spits out desirable balls at certain intervals. The best thing about it is the puns when you remove the “L”. The Brno Astronomical C(l)ock. The Big Black C(l)ock.

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Yerevan city guide

Travel guides will tell you that Yerevan is a city of contradictions. Old meets new…yada-yada-yada. The truth is that Yerevan is your grandfather's Lada. It’s old, it’s rusty and it refuses to break down. Slap a little resin on it and YOUR great-grandchildren will happily inherit it. You think Rome deserves the title of the Eternal City? Think again. Yerevan is ancient. In fact, it’s the oldest continuously inhabited area in the world. Like that grandpa's Lada. Mount Ararat, which you can see from the city, is symbolic to Armenians. They believe that Noah’s Ark rests somewhere on that peak. I wouldn’t be surprised if someone eventually found it, resting inside some obscure cave. People have been living in this area since the 4th millennium BC! That’s a long time. Sadly, the way Yerevan is, you couldn’t tell. You won’t be tripping over cuneiform tablets along random sidewalks. I believe that all that is of secondary importance to modern Armenians. What they care about the most is mending their wounds. There is always a context, though. All nations went through their own tragedies, but the Armenian tragedy was as bad as it can get. Most historical sources refer to April 24, 1915 as the official starting date of the Armenian Genocide. On that day that Ottoman soldiers rounded up, arrested, and deported from Constantinople (now Istanbul) to the region of Angora (Ankara) up to 270 Armenian intellectuals and community leaders, of whom most were eventually killed. The large scale and systematic deportation and massacre of ethnic Armenians by Turkish troupes of the Ottoman empire went on during World War I and even beyond. By the year 1923 around 1.5 million people were dead: murdered in cold blood or starved to death, and many more were expelled from their home country. Turkey still disputes the numbers and the term “Genocide’ still drives modern Turks outrageous but I will not be going in depth about this. The Armenian Genocide Museum tells that story better than I ever could. Yerevan became a sanctuary for the poor people who somehow escaped this national tragedy.

A view from Yerevan to mount Ararat: a symbol of Armenia, which, paradoxically, is located on the territory of Turkey

I would say the Armenians are doing pretty well considering the circumstances and where they came from. The Armenian diaspora worldwide is immense; especially countries like Canada and France have traditionally large Armenian communities. The Armenians living abroad have a reputation for being successful. And then I do not mean only the Kardashians, singer/actress Cher or the late French-Armenian singer Charles Aznavour. I have been often told that the best doctors in Russia are Armenians. And for what’s it worth: the few Armenian friends I have met in my life accomplished a lot in arts, music and cinematography. The relatively wealthy Armenians living abroad traditionally send money to relatives in the home country or invest in local business and especially the capital profits from that. Yerevan underwent already an impressive growth during the second Russian rule over Armenia. It finally became the industrial, educational, and cultural capital it was meant to be. That was in the late 1920s, relatively not long ago. The Soviet Union collapsed in 1991 and that’s when Armenia became truly independent. Take a walk around the city centre and you’ll still notice the Soviet influence. It is surprisingly not repulsive.

The Republic Square is where you’ll find most landmarks in Yerevan. Locals will gather around the fountains for evening light shows and music concerts. The History Museum and the Opera house are also very interesting. The Opera was designed by Alexander Tamanian; the person responsible for the Soviet-era revitalization of Yerevan. He’s got his own monument at the bottom of the Cascade. I don’t even know how to describe the Cascade. It’s like a massive staircase, but you could mistake it for a temple or a pyramid. That makes a perfect place for all the prehistoric treasures, right? Nope, the entire area was dedicated to contemporary art. Still awesome, but…perhaps a little misplaced. All the characteristic buildings around the square are the reason why Yerevan is known as “the Pink City”. It’s because of all the pinkish-hued bricks, made from all the volcanic soil around Mount Ararat. You could say that most homes here have a piece of the holy mountain in their walls. There are a lot of those in the Kond: a district in Yerevan dating back to the 17th century. It is a part of the capital, but it feels more like a village somewhere in the mountains. All the city walking and stairs climbing will make you hungry. So indulge yourself in the incredible rich local cuisine. As everywhere in the Caucasus the grilled meat, stew dishes and stuffed pastries will make everyone mouth watering. Typically for the Armenian cuisine is the use of nuts. You can find nuts all over the place or better said: over your plate; walnuts, almonds, pine nuts, hazelnuts and pistachios. And also fresh and dry fruit such as quince, melons, and especially apricots are common ingredients of many Armenian dishes. The apricot has become even a national symbol of the county. Just to know in case you would wonder why the critically acclaimed national film festival is named Golden Apricot and also the national Oscars go under the same name. Having one of those famous local cognacs after your copious Armenian dinner is mandatory. They are considered to be the best of the world. Remember: the older the better because the flavours become more intense with the years. So maybe you can try a cognac bottled during to the era when Stalin used to send Churchill boxes of them. That is to say: when you could afford the sky-high price tag of such old treasure.

Zvartnots temple, discovered at the beginning of the 20th century, 10 km from Yerevan, belongs to early medieval Armenia; also known as the "Temple of the Vigilant Angels"

When being in Yerevan, be also sure to plan some trips to the magnificent Armenian countryside. The nature is breath taking with unique flora and fauna and you will encounter striking ancients churches and temples to the backdrop of snow topped mountain peaks, deep canyons and lush forests. The capital makes an excellent location to make some day trips since many landmarks are relatively nearby. Garni Temple is on top of the list of most travellers. It’s the only Pagan temple in the region and truly magnificent. A visit of Garni is usually combined with Geghard Monastery, a UNESCO World Heritage site, carved in rocks and situated in spectacular mountainous scenery. Lake Sevan is also a very popular day-trip to get a sea experience in this landlocked country and offers magnificent panoramic views. Very close to Yerevan you can find Zvartnots temple, which was constructed in the 7-th century. Although only the ruins of the medieval temple are left, they still will give you the idea of its rare and majestic beauty.

Visit the Erebuni Fortress to dig even deeper into the origins of Yerevan. This place used to be the capital around 782 BC. There’s an on-site museum housing all the cool stuff people have excavated here throughout the years. Armenians have been known as collectors of ancient scriptures in the past. Too bad that most of it has been plundered during countless conflicts. What remains is stored in the Matenadaran: an underground vault/museum. It makes me think about the Vatican Archives. Who knows what knowledge is buried deep in these treasuries? It’s practically a temple. Levon’s Divine Underground is yet another cool spot hidden beneath the streets of Yerevan. It came into existence like many other things in the world: out of a woman’s whim. Levon’s wife wanted a cellar to store potatoes. The man was a true artisan; he finished the cellar and kept digging deeper. What for? Perhaps he just enjoyed it. Maybe it was better than sitting upstairs with the wife. Perhaps he even wanted to escape? We will never know the true story.

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Sarajevo city guide

Sarajevo is where the east meets the west. I am aware it’s one of the most overused lines in the history of travel blogs. A huge cliché, but a very true one in this case. Sarajevo is divided into two parts, the east one and the west one. There’s an inscription on one of the streets marking the spot where the two meet. The east side was developed by the Ottoman Empire in the 14th century. This “cradle” of Sarajevo has a distinct oriental aura to it. People even call it the Jerusalem of Europe. It’s not only the architecture but because of all the religions that coexist here. You’ll see synagogues, Orthodox churches, and several mosques. Gazi Husrev-beg was the governor responsible for building most of the Old Town. The main mosque in Bosnia and Herzegovina is named after that man. He shaped Sarajevo into the most civilized European city of the 16th century. He invested a fortune into educating the masses in religious schools teaching Sufism. It’s the mystical branch of Islam, kind of what the Qabalah is for Judaism. Sarajevo was the second most powerful city in the region after Istanbul. That was a high ceiling to surpass. The Baščaršija predates even Gazi Husrev-beg. This beautiful oriental marketplace remains the core of the Ottoman Sarajevo to this day. Local craftsmen manufacture the best souvenirs you can find in the city. The Baščaršija Square is a popular meeting point for tourists. They usually gather around the Sebilj Fountain, one of Sarajevo’s main landmarks. You know the drill: toss a coin in and you’ll eventually come back. Funny how so many fountains, all over the world share the same superstition.

Latin bridge over rivier Miljacka in Sarajevo

Latin bridge over river Miljacka in Sarajevo: the murder of Archduke Franz Ferdinand took place here; the event that marked the beginning of the First World War

The western part of Sarajevo is thoroughly European. The Ottoman Empire was practically no more by the end of the 19th century. Austria-Hungary occupied Bosnian territories. The Treaty of Berlin was signed in 1878. That meant that Sarajevo officially became a part of the empire. It’s a short summary; there obviously were fights, bloodshed and executions along the way. Changes were in order and westernization of Sarajevo commenced. Rapidly. The Sacred Heart Cathedral, the largest in Bosnia and Herzegovina, was built in only 3 years. The City Hall was a monumental project that was supposed to become a symbol of power of the new rulers. Everything went smoothly until they came across one guy. He didn’t want to move his house to make space for the construction. He demanded them to move his house, brick by brick, to the other side of the river. And they did. The regime couldn’t have been that bad, right? They could’ve just shot him in the head. “The House of Spite” stands vis-à-vis the City Hall to this day. It’s been converted into a restaurant serving delicious Bosnian food. Things were going great for Sarajevo until shit hit the fan in 1914. A Serbian nationalist assassinated Archduke Franz Ferdinand and his wife Sophie, while visiting the city. It is known as THE event that triggered the First World War. But I dare to say that when the nineteen-year-old Bosnian Serb Gavrilo Princip who fired the shots would have stayed in bed on that historical June 28, 1914 the “Great War” would have started soon anyway. The world was in such turmoil those days that it was just a matter of time until it went off. I’m not a historian though, you can learn more about all that at Museum of the Assassination of Franz Ferdinand. It stands right in the spot where it all happened.

Bascarsija square and Sebilj wooden fountain in Sarajevo

On Sarajevo's Bascarsija square there is a wooden fountain Sebilj in a pseudo-Moorish style; according to legend, whoever drinks from the fountain will definitely return to Sarajevo

The war lasted for 5 years and resulted in Sarajevo becoming a part of Yugoslavia. Fast-forward a few decades and the Second World War. Bosnia and Herzegovina breaks up with Yugoslavia and Yugoslavia doesn’t like it. Sarajevo became the site of the longest city siege in history of modern warfare. Over four years of almost constant artillery fire. The damage done was unthinkable. You’ll notice the Sarajevo Roses, these are the holes made by the mortar shells. People decided to fill them with red resin to commemorate those tragic events. Visit the Sarajevo Tunnel Museum to dig deeper into the history of the Bosnian War. Horrible pun. It was used to get supplies in and people out during the siege of Sarajevo. Only a tiny part of it is safe enough for tourists to explore, but it sure leaves an impression. If you want to learn more about the siege of Sarajevo I strongly recommend you to watch the movie “Welcome to Sarajevo”, Michael Winterbottom's critically-acclaimed war drama. It’s nothing less than a masterpiece with a brilliant Woody Harrelson as cynical war journalist and a magnificent soundtrack. Watching when people flee through the tunnel under heavy gun and grenade fire to the tunes of “I Wanna Be Adored” of The Stone Roses still gives me goose pickles. And the scene when Bosnian Serbian soldiers round up children and other passengers of a bus is nerve breaking. All this war talk makes Sarajevo sound like a gloomy, depressing place. It’s everything but that. I believe it’s one of those cities everyone should visit at least once. Not for long though, a weekend is enough.

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Liège city guide

You don’t go to Liège to relax. Nope. You go to Liège (or Luik in Dutch language) to get shredded. Trust me, I’m a certified personal trainer. Spend a week in Liège and your body fat % will drop to single digits. Guaranteed (terms and conditions apply)! What is it about this Liège that affects body composition so dramatically? It’s one of those cities where you stay for a few days and walk the same route. You walk around the same few blocks and it’s always a different experience. So, you do a lot of walking, because it’s very enjoyable here. Stairs are another factor that contributes to rapid fat loss. You will have to climb a lot of those if you want to see the best Liège has to offer. It is a surprisingly vertical city for this part of Europe, and this goes especially for its older parts. Montagne de Bueren is the most recognizable landmark here. It’s a whole lot of stairs leading to the top of a beautiful hill: 374 steps to be more precise. There’s a funny story involved. Troops were stationed there and their officers had trouble keeping them disciplined. The road to the city was the core of these issues. Soldiers had to navigate dim, narrow alleys “infested” with bars and prostitutes. Building this massive set of stairs to bypass the area was easier than keeping the men in check. Montagne de Bueren was built in 1881 named after a noble who defended the city in the 15th century.

Montagne de Bueren: a famous street staircase in Liege; you will need to climb 374 steps to reach the top but you will be rewarded with breathtaking city views

Traditionally, Liège has to cope with many stereotypes. It is supposed to be gloomy and unfriendly city. Many Flemish Belgians and Dutch people visiting the city have anecdotes about locals being harsh and brutal. But when you try to speak a few words of French you will notice most locals are surprisingly welcoming and warm-hearted people. According to many Dutch people Liège is a city you have to drive through as quick as possible when you are on your yearly journey towards the South of France via the Route du Soleil. And it is true that the heavy steel and coal industry dominated the city’s skyline for centuries and gave the city a grey appearance. But things changed for the better over the last years. A lot of historical buildings have been renovated and the city was also uplifted by impressive modern architecture. The new Liège-Guillemins railway station, designed by the renowned Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava, opened in 2009. It’s considered a masterpiece, constructed of steel, glass and white concrete, including a monumental arch of 160 meters long and 32 meters high.

And apart from all the new buildings Liège’s old town (Vieux Liège) hasn’t lost its charm either. Explore all the tiny alleys between residential buildings along the Montagne. Countless wonderful gardens are crammed in these nooks and crannies. Don’t get too comfortable though, it’s not a museum, people live there. The Terraces and the vantage point in the area are a great spot to rest for a bit. Sit down on a bench and take the view in. I’d love to say that it’s something unforgettable, but it’s not. Walk back down (see what I meant with all this cardio) and you’ll reach the remainder of touristy Liège. All the cool things are on, around and below the Place Saint-Lambert. It’s Liège’s main square, with the huge Prince-Bishops' Palace overlooking it. Built in 1000 CE, this building has remained the seat of power of local administration to this day. The palace might have been the residence, but the true symbol of Prince-Bishops’ rule was the Cathedral. Cathédrale Notre-Dame-et-Saint-Lambert was stunning, so much so that people compared it to the one in Paris. It stood tall for over 800 years until the French regime demolished it in 1794.

Now, we’re getting to the cool part. The ruins beneath the square are accessible to the public. It’s called the Archéoforum and it’s like a city beneath the city. What’s on display? For the most part, it’s ruins: ruins of a villa from Roman times, ruins of the Cathedral. You can watch a computer-generated presentation if you’re interested in how it used to look at its peak. The site is spread over 4000 sq. meters; there’s a lot to see there. St Paul Cathedral was built in the 15th century and took over as Liège’s main place of worship when Saint Lambert’s was demolished. Numerous artefacts have been moved here, mostly connected to St Lambert. Legend says that one of the golden ornaments has the saints’ skull inside it. There’s another secret hidden in the Cathedral: a beautiful marble statue of Lucifer. It’s a bit of a weird thing to put in a church. But that is my humble opinion. It’s a full package with bat wings, talons and horns included.

Collegiate church of St.Bartholomew in Liege

Collegiate church of St.Bartholomew: an unusually white church with red pilasters in the German-Romanesque style, one of the oldest churches in Belgium

Most people would be tired after all this walking. Guess what…there’s more walking! There are no breaks on the six-pack train. Head towards the shaded streets near the Prince-Bishops' Palace. Some of the best café’s and restaurants are in this area. Locals bake amazing pastries, especially during rhubarb season. Yum. I won’t even bother mentioning staples like the waffles or the chocolate. I will briefly mention the nightlife in Liège. Le Carré is where it’s at. Just a short walk from Place Saint-Lambert and you end up in a Belgian beer heaven. This is where all the students hang out in small pubs and bars. Le Carré reminded me of Bairro Alto in Lisbon. The riverbanks along the Meuse are an alternative. Also packed with nightlife venues, but of a slightly more mature sort. An absolute evergreen in Liège is café Aux Olivettes on Rue Pied-du-Pont-des-Arches 6. It’s a so-called Café Chantant: the French version of a karaoke café where people can climb on the stage and grab the mic or even play the piano. Especially during Sundays when the nearby famous flea market is taking place, the café is loaded with locals and tourists. Go there to see someone performing passionately Jacques Brel or Édith Piaf while you have one of those heavenly Belgian beers. After all the hard drinking and singing along you will be very hungry. And then it’s good to know that the local cuisine in Liège, as everywhere in Belgium is great. Liège is home to many Italian, Spanish and Portuguese inhabitants; progeny of the immigrants who worked in the local factories and mines long time ago. So rest assured you can choose from many outstanding Mediterranean cuisine restaurants.

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Denpasar city guide

I always thought that the only way to get to Bali is on a seaplane. I had this very detailed fantasy in my head. We land, I walk off straight into the water because it’s only knee-deep. I grab my girl and we get escorted to the shore by a bunch of those tropical swimming pigs. We settle down in our cosy bungalow sipping fresh coconut water. The dream. That’s what people show you; the bamboo huts and beach resorts. There is so much more to Bali and it is mostly ignored by mainstream tourism. People arrive at the Ngurah Rai International Airport, it’s about 13km south of Denpasar. That’s the criminally underrated capital of Bali. Ironically, this might be one of the few places on the island not tainted by the tourists. This is where you can meet the locals and see how they live their everyday lives. All the expats and digital nomads also hang around, mainly to sort their visas. Bali is gradually becoming a destination for people who work remotely. Understandably so. The living is super cheap and the island is beautiful. Who wouldn’t want to live in paradise? You can’t beat an apartment with a pool for a couple of hundred bucks a month. Hot meal with a beer for $2.5? Sign me up.

Bajra Sandhi in Denpasar: a monument dedicated to the struggle of the Balinese people for independence; here one of the most tragic events in Bali of the 20th century took place: the ritual suicide of the Balians in protest against the Dutch colonial authorities

I wouldn’t call Denpasar “unique”. It is like all the large cities in the region: messy, chaotic, crowded, and full of character. Go out and do some shopping, you’ll need a sarong. See all those statues wrapped in fabric? That’s a sarong, called kamben in local language. You won’t be able to access several key landmarks without one. I’m talking about all the Hindu temples; it is a religious country after all. Not to mention wearing a loose sarong feels great in these climates. Entrances to the Hindu temple grounds are a sight on their own. They symbolize the border between the common world and a holy place. Like the Handara Gate, one of the most photographed places in Bali. It is stunning with its open structure connecting heaven and earth. Shame how it loses its charm when it’s on every other Bali Instagram post. The temples located in Denpasar are thankfully not very “instagrammable”. Pura Agung Jagatnatha is the largest one in the capital. It was built in the 1950s, but it looks at least a thousand years old. It doesn’t even have any staff on site, it gets taken care of by volunteers. The area is massive so they must be proper devotees. Don’t miss out on the ritual puppet performance held here twice a month.

The temple and everything worth seeing can be found around the Alun-Alun Puputan. That’s the centre of Denpasar with the imposing Catur Mukha statue. Puputan stands for all the fighters sacrificing themselves trying to oppose the Dutch occupation. Like kamikaze, but without the airplanes. There’s a monument dedicated to those heroes wearing mandatory sarongs. The park complex surrounding it is pure bliss, but make sure you visit the nearby Bali Museum. It consists of a courtyard with several pavilions dedicated to different aspects of Balinese culture and history. The Royal Palace is close, it’s open to the public for a small donation. The Bajra Sandhi Monument is another tourist staple in Denpasar. The remarkable monument commemorates the struggles of the Balinese people throughout history and is located in front of the Bali Governor's Office. On the first floor you will find dioramas covering various events in the history of the Balinese, such as the Balinese kingdom, the introduction of Hinduism, Dutch colonialism, and the fight for independence. The second floor has a meditation space and offers panoramic views of Denpasar.

Those are the all the major landmarks in Denpasar. Stick around for a day or two to experience the nightlife and the authentic food. Obviously, there’s food and nightlife all over Bali. But here it’s more local and unchanged for the tourist crowds. But rest assured that on Bali and even in entire Indonesia you just can’t get wrong when it comes to food. Being Dutch by origin I was lucky to get acquainted with Indonesian cuisine at young age already and I will never stop eating it for the rest of my life. When I want to introduce it to my foreign friends I usually order an Indonesian rice table, which features highlights of various Indonesian food cultures and – influenced by Dutch colonization – includes even Indian ingredients. All main and side dishes are put on the table at the same time and everyone can compose his own menu. Having an Indonesian rice table is not only about the eating itself; it can last for hours and the social element is equally, if not more important.

Rent a scooter and explore around the capital. Scooters are popular since Bali is a relatively small island and most stuff is easily reachable. That is at least what I did when I visited the island for the first and last time so far and it turned out to be an unforgettable journey. I made a stop at Ubud, which is considered to be the cultural and spiritual capital of Bali and know for its galleries, art cafes and workshops. I went snorkelling and seeing dolphins at Lovina Beach in the North of the island. I climbed volcanoes during the middle of the night and could cook eggs for breakfast in the smoking hot sand. Watching the sunrise at Mount Batur (Gunung Batur), located next to the active volcano Mount Agung (Gunung Agung) is spectacular and I found it one of the most impressive experiences in my life. Mount Batur features a "double caldera" (a crater inside a second crater) and is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful natural phenomena on Bali.

Pura Ulun Danu Beratan temple at Lake Bratan, 50 km from Denpasar

On 50 km distance from Denpasar you can admire Pura Ulun Danu Beratan temple: a sacred place for the Balinese, stunningly located on the shore of Lake Bratan in the caldera of an ancient volcano

When you say Bali, you say temples. Tanah Lot Temple is without a doubt the most famous and popular one with tourists. The sacred Hindu site located about 20km from Denpasar. Legend has it that the founder of Balinese Hinduism rested on this off-shore rock and proclaimed it sacred. Now it’s one of seven sea temples closely connected to local mythology. We’re talking 16th century, it’s a rather fresh mythology. They worship sea monsters here, how cool is that? Tanah Lot can get busy especially when it’s pilgrimage season. It’s also hugely popular with tourists because it offers a spectacular view, especially during sun set when it turns into a stunning dark silhouette to the backdrop of a deep red sun sinking in the sea. Another popular temple is Pura Ulun Danu Beratan, or Pura Bratan, a major Hindu Shaivite Shiva temple complex on the shores of Lake Bratan (Lake Beratan) in the mountains near Bedugul. This temple is also called the "Bali temple on the Lake" because it looks as if it is floating when the Bratan River rises.

If you’re not much into temples or not the exploring type of guy you have plenty of other options on Bali. Why not indulge yourself in mainstream tourism if sandy beaches, bikini babes hip bars and posh hotels are more your cup of tea? In that case you better stay around Kuta since it has all the great beach resort stuff and a vibrant local nightlife. The sunset at Kuta beach is also called the most beautiful in the world; so that is another reason to go there. Kuta is where you’ll find the down and dirty parties. In October 2002 Kuta was the centre of the world news when local nightlife was severely hit by bombings of Indonesian Islamic terrorists. The Paddy's Irish Bar and the nearby Sari Club were picked as a target because they were seen as the local Sodom and Gomorra by the extremists. The 202 deadly victims came from 21 different countries and especially many Australian youngsters who go there traditionally for surf and fun were killed or heavily wounded. The terror attacks had a devastating impact on the local tourist economy and the pain due to so many young lives destroyed will never be healed entirely. But it’s also encouraging to see how resilient people are. They go on with life and after a while they even start to celebrate life again.

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Perth city guide

I know this sounds cynical, but I think all Australian cities are pretty much the same. Copy-pasted with their amazing weather, pristine nature, and over-the-top quality of life. Stunning coastline, wine, and even more great weather? Don’t mind me, I’m just a jealous European freezing my balls off in September. I wasn’t joking about the similarities between cities in Australia, though. Colonists arrive, subdue the natives, import convicts for free manual labour, and build settlements. There’s usually a gold rush somewhere in between. The Nightingale portrayed those times in a very grim way. I won’t spoil it, but it’s worth a watch to gain perspective on Australian history. “All’s well that ends well” I suppose and Perth turned out great. It’s known as the capital and the largest city in Western Australia. You’ll see a lot of “Fremantle” here. I’d say it’s the heart of Perth, kind of the old town too. There’s a beautiful harbour with charming Victorian architecture and notable landmarks. The oldest building in the region (built in 1830) is located here, and, of course, it’s a prison. It only had eight cells, so its usefulness was rather limited. Fremantle Prison took over some twenty years later. It fulfilled its role until the early 90s and now functions as a museum. The prison even received the title of a World Heritage Site due to its part in Australian convict history. There’s also the Fremantle Asylum, which is now an arts centre because insanity and art are the same thing.

Modern Perth has become a real city of dreams, which is able to satisfy any desire

Venture into the abandoned power plant if you’re feeling adventurous. South Fremantle Power Station is the full name and it’s enormous. I think the only reason that it hasn’t been demolished yet is that it stands on private property. You can see the architecture beneath all the graffiti. This thing must’ve been a sight to behold in its day. People say there are tunnels below leading as far as the city centre. Just make sure you dodge the guards or you might get tasered. Have a looksie from a distance if you’d rather not trespass, like from the CY O’Connor beach right next to it. The entire western coast is one giant sandy paradise for surfers. Cottesloe is the most recognizable one around with its azure waters. It’s a staple among the local snorkelling community. Try swimming further offshore and you might reach the nasty-sounding Rottnest Island. Or better yet: don’t risk your life and take a ferry from Perth. Rottnest is a nature reserve and one of the few places on earth where you can see a quokka. They’re sort of tiny rat-kangaroo creatures. Super cute, known as the “world’s happiest animal” because of their characteristic “smile”. The island is a popular destination for a family trip. You can leave the kids at the aqua park and spend quality time with the wife on one of the 63 beaches.

One of the most amazing and unique inhabitants of Rottnest Island near Perth is the quokka or the short-tailed scrub wallaby

Perth itself isn’t devoid of spectacular nature. Kings Park is a green area and a botanic garden overlooking the city. It’s huge, larger than New York’s Central Park. The most interesting thing about it is its aboriginal history. You can hire one of those guys to walk you through the park. They believe that their serpent god Wagyl dug into the earth here and emerged at Mt Eliza. That’s their River Swan origin story. I bet it pisses them off that people are messing around their sacred place. Aboriginal tours aren’t limited to Kings Park. You can take a walking tour through the entire Perth to learn about it from a different point of view. They can teach you about gathering food, edible plants, and hunting throughout the seasons. Handy stuff if you lose your wallet and passport and somehow find yourself homeless in Australia. Let’s hope that’s not the case and you’re still able to enjoy Perth’s food and nightlife. Swan valley is famous for its vineyards and wineries if you’re willing to take the trip. Perth is all about beer and neighbourly breweries with funny names. Try Beerporium, Little Creatures, or Freo Social. You can’t go wrong with some fresh seafood with your cold brewski. Everything is conveniently located around the Fremantle district and the Elizabeth Quay. Now to summarize: would I want to live in Perth? Absolutely. Would I spend 20 hours on a plane to spend a few days there? No way in hell.

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Brașov city guide

Brașov is a major city in Transylvania. It’s just a province in Romania, but that doesn’t sound as cool as “the Vampire Country”. Yes, this is the land that Bram Stoker envisioned as the stage for his famous story. Or so they say, because there is no actual evidence of Stoker ever visiting these areas. He did take interest in Vlad the Impaler, the infamous warlord. It is a good tourist magnet, especially the Bran Castle. It’s small and creepy as hell. Hidden passages, puzzle-like chambers; very cool stuff. It can get a little bit crowded, but it’s still worth the trip. However, there is no historical evidence of Vlad the Impaler ever taking a single step in there. Locals are rarely even bothered with that whole vampire hype. You’d expect plastic fangs around everywhere, but Brașov is free of all that. They eat a lot of garlic because it’s delicious and antibacterial, not anti-vampire. Most cultures have some kind of bloodsucking creature folklore. In Romania’s case, it’s the Strigoi. It’s Dracula, but more of an animal without the noble side to it. It’s funny to see how every place in the world has its own vampire story. Europe, Africa, Asia, it’s almost as if they were real.

Panoramic evening view at Brasov and Tampa Mountain

Transylvania rises from Brasov: mountains dotted with dense forests, mysterious Gothic temples, legendary castles; all this richly expresses the local Romanian charm

There are far more terrifying things in hills and woods surrounding Brașov. Bears and wolves are a real danger in modern days. And they were even more so during medieval times. I can imagine how people came up with tales of shape shifting demons. Trekking the Tâmpa mountain, overlooking the city is one of the coolest activities you can partake in. There’s a giant sign resembling the one in Hollywood that says Brașov. You can climb right up there. The view is stunning. All those clay roof tiles down below belong to the historic district. Fun fact: Vlad the Impaler impaled 40 merchants at the top of the mountain. That’s what you got for tax evasion back then. There are tunnels beneath the mountain. German prisoners of war were held there following World War I. Some people even believe there’s a lake INSIDE the mountain, so they couldn’t dig too deep. This place is more mysterious than one might think. Make sure you don’t stay too long. The cable cart closes after dusk and getting to the city on your own is risky. Remember about the bears, they’re no joke.

Snow-covered chalets in Poiana Brasov ski resort

The most beautiful ski resort in Romania Poiana Brasov is located not far from Brasov city

The Old Brașov was a city of wealthy merchants. One could say a Romanian version of Florence. It’s still medieval through and through with the mandatory town square and fortifications included. Most of the stuff is in a pristine state and open for tourists. The Council Square is a good place to start exploring Brașov. Legend says this is the place the Pied Piper led the children of Hamelin to. The Rat Catcher who used a magic flute to control the rodents. It was a folk tale, long before the Goethe or Brothers Grimm and it originated around these parts. The Old Town Hall stands overlooking the plaza. It used to function as the seat of the council, but now it’s a museum. Only the part dedicated to medieval history is somewhat interesting. The Black Church is the next landmark in the area. It’s not black, but it is the main Gothic church in the whole of Romania. Why the name then? Because of the Great Fire that destroyed most of Brașov in 1689. You can take a tour of all the towers along the city walls. Some of them have been converted into museums, some into archives and some have been left untouched.

Brașov’s true charm lies in exploring all the nooks and crannies of the Old Town. The Rope Street, one of the narrowest streets in Europe is one of those local peculiarities. It used to be a corridor for the firemen, but they changed it into a tourist attraction. It recently became an open-air museum/gallery. Brașov is not a huge, bustling city with crowds of tourists. And that’s a great thing. You can relax in cafes and restaurants, or take part in pretty chill nightlife. Poiana Brașov is a great getaway just outside of the city. It’s mainly a ski resort, but it’s not exactly abandoned during summer either. You can enjoy various spa treatments, or spent your time hiking, or work on your horseback riding skills.

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Yekaterinburg city guide

Yekaterinburg (alternatively sometimes also named Ekaterinburg) blows my mind. You never hear anyone saying “I’m so excited for my Yekaterinburg vacation, I can’t wait”. But there are more people than you would expect who visit this city willingly. You have people sent there for business by their companies. Locals struck by nostalgia. Those weirdoes who travel to remote places looking for god-knows-what. Most of them are pleasantly surprised by how cool this city is. It’s like New York, but in the middle of nowhere. It’s the largest city/capital of the Ural region. The Ural Mountains are that giant range that separates the “civilized Russia” from the rest of Russia. They’re also considered the border between Europe and Asia. Doesn’t sound like that great of a place to settle in, right? The redeeming quality of the Ural is that it’s rich in natural resources, particularly in metal. People have excavated casting moulds from the Bronze Age and ironworks are in these peoples’ DNA. The city was founded in 1723 by Peter the Great and named after his second wife Empress Catherine I; not to be confused with Catherina the Great. That was actually Tsarina Catherine II, who seized power only decades later. Yekaterinburg became an industrial giant in a matter of years. They eventually built a railway connecting west with the east. Yekaterinburg ended up as one of the “Gateways of Asia” like Singapore. Trade took over metal works as the city’s main source of income. At least to a degree, the industry was still important, just less profitable.

Top view of Church on Blood in Honour of All Saints Resplendent in the Russian Land in Yekaterinburg

Church on Blood in Honour of All Saints Resplendent in the Russian Land in Yekaterinburg got its name from the event that took place on the night of July 16-17, 1917; at this place stood the house of the engineer Ipatiev, where the last Russian emperor Nicholas II with his family and servants were assassinated

Yekaterinburg was instrumental to modern history. Remember “Pete” and “Kate”? They were the Romanovs, members of the family that ruled Russia for three centuries. Lenin’s socialist revolution happened and Tsar Nicholas II and his family members were exiled to Yekaterinburg. That’s where the last emperor’s entire lineage was brutally murdered by the Bolsheviks. Those events marked the end of the not-so-evil-Russia and the beginning of…modern Russia. There is a huge cult of the Romanovs in this city, somehow tied to their Orthodox Christianity. The Church on Blood was built on the site where the last Tsar, his wife Alexandra, their 5 kids and the family’s closest retainers were massacred. There are shocking anecdotes about how the ladies were killed in the end with bayonets because the jewellery they wore under their clothes stopped a lot of the first bullets. It must have been the ultimate horror. Now it’s probably the most famous landmark in Yekaterinburg. Officially it’s called the Church on Blood in Honour of All Saints Resplendent in the Russian Land. I don’t really like the building itself, but I do understand how crucial it is to the people. Ganina Yama is the second key site to this story. It was an abandoned mining shaft not far from Yekaterinburg. That’s where the executioners hid the bodies. I’m not an expert, but I’ve watched enough “Dexter” episodes to know this is not the best way to dispose of evidence. Anyway, people built a church next to the hole, then another church. Ganina Yama turned into a sort of a monastery or pilgrimage site. That’s not even the end to bloody stories staged in Yekaterinburg. The Soviet Union fell and the early 90s were a time of a power void in the city. The mafia filled in and started killing each other, as mobsters usually do. The result of that carnage is the most ridiculous cemetery in the world. You will see BMW- shaped tombstones with pictures of overweight Russian gangsters in tracksuits. It’s a bizarre pissing contest about who has the most expensive grave.

Sevastyanov House is one of the most striking and remarkable buildings in Yekaterinburg; a flamboyant example of "neo-Gothic" in the Urals, which served as the residence of the Russian President

Yekaterinburg is free of that stereotypical Russian kitsch, at least for the most part. It might be the most western city in eastern Russia, so to say. Take for instance the Yeltsin Centre; it looks like the Avengers Tower. It’s a massive exhibition centre dedicated to Russia’s recent history and its first president, Boris Yeltsin, who was born in the same Ural region. You pay close to nothing for an entry and you’re free to explore. They do guided tours, but only in Russian. There are interactive media like movies and such and those at least have English subtitles. The Square of 1905 is a good start if you’d like to do some traditional sightseeing on foot. There’s a red line painted on the pavement that you can follow towards important landmarks. There aren’t really that many, but it’s a nice long walk. There’s also the famous QWERTY keyboard monument. Do you want to travel to goddamn Ural Mountains to see the QWERTY keyboard monument? I know I don’t. I’d rather hang around the Vaynera Street with all the shops and restaurants. Can’t get enough of that borsch. Local markets are a great place to buy leather goods. These regions are known for cheap, quality leather and shearling jackets. Boy, I do love a good shearling coat: that stuff will last for generations.

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Reykjavík city guide

Every now and then, you just want to get away. Or run away after committing a hideous crime. Somewhere with very few people and a lot of open space. Somewhere no one will look for you. Iceland? More like Isolate-land! Ha-ha. Around 240 thousand people live in Reykjavík. Iceland’s entire population is around 360 thousand. It’s a harsh, desolate environment. “The Land of Ice and Fire” was shown in the last season of a certain History Channel series. I’m a huge fan of the series Vikings, at least the first few seasons. One of the final episodes was about a shipbuilder named Floki. He tripped balls on psychedelics (probably mushrooms) and decided to embark on a journey. Floki thought he was heading for Asgard, the realm of the gods, but he sailed towards Iceland. It’s the 9th century and he’s not stupid, but he’s not an academic either. The guy witnessed sights like geysers blowing from the ground, or the almost permanent daylight. I bet he thought he arrived at the right place. The show was loosely based on factual events, keyword being “loosely”. Hrafna-Flóki Vilgerðarson was the name of the historic character who named the land Iceland.

The great majority of first settlers were Nordic refugees. People fled religious persecution from when Norway converted to Christianity. Local people are closely tied to their pagan ancestry. The folklore is very much alive here. You’ll see roads going around certain rocks or mounds. That’s where the elves live and you don’t **** with the elves. Some people go as far as building tiny housing for these beings. You’ll see those in the wilderness, but also in large cities like Reykjavík. It’s all superstition and silly stuff, right? I’m not so sure. They’ve had incidents on Iceland of “elves” disturbing the construction of roads and other projects. It’s recent stuff; not your grandma’s bedtime stories. They tried to build a road over a “sacred site”. Machines broke down and people suffered inexplicable accidents. The site was moved a little bit and everything went fine. Not everyone on Iceland believes in elves, but no one wants to get murdered by an invisible tiny person.

Hallgrimskirkja Cathedral and statue of Leifur Eiríksson in Reykjavik to the backdrop of the Northern Lights

Hallgrimskirkja Cathedral is built in the neo-gothic style and resembles basalt columns with a cap like a volcano

The trolls are yet another example of fantastic beasts. Not the salty teenage basement-dwelling kind of trolls. The giant humanoids that live in the mountains are the real deal to my opinion. They turn into rock when exposed to sunlight. That would explain a lot of weird basalt rock formations in Iceland. Pay a visit to the Icelandic Elf School (Álfaskólinn) if you’d like to learn more. It’s an actual school with lectures and courses. You can even get a diploma. They also do aura reading and past-life exploration. It’s a form of hypnosis meant to take your ego way back into past lives. There’s a pagan temple being constructed in Reykjavík. The ancient polytheist religion called Ásatrú is gaining popularity in these parts. They worship the old Norse pantheon: Odin, Thor, and the rest of the merry family. They host different ceremonies like weddings, summer solstice celebrations and such.

Reykjavík isn’t a city of heathens; there is room for Christians as well. The fairly new Hallgrímskirkja Cathedral stands tall in the capital. It’s not beautiful, but it fits right in. I’d say it looks like an upside-down geyser blowing concrete. The view from the tower is the best. You can see the entire Reykjavík from up there. There’s even an elevator, so you don’t need to climb the stairs. What you’ll see from up top is a very unique city. Tourism in Reykjavík itself is in its infancy. In fact, they decided that it could be their strong point during the global financial crisis. Prices are ridiculously high; not just the attractions but also the costs of living. People struggle, complain but they’re generally happy. The real issue is that central Reykjavík is being turned into a hotel district. People don’t want their cute handicraft workshops and bars demolished. That’s relatable. There isn’t much to see in the city. There’s a National Museum, Whale Museum, and the Icelandic Phallological Museum (Penis Museum). You’ll find some great bars and the best fish and chips outside of UK. Thing is: Reykjavík is a great place to live in, just not the best pick for a city break. For the most part, it’s a base from which visitors explore the rest of the island.

People bathing in the Blue Lagoon pool in Hreyfing Heilsulind near Reykjavik

Blue Lagoon, a geothermal pool in Hreyfing Heilsulind not far from Reykjavik is one of Iceland's major tourist hubs and known all over the world

The Blue Lagoon is one of Iceland’s essential to-do’s. It’s a geothermal spa 50km away from Reykjavík, a bit like an Onsen, the Japanese natural hot springs. It’s all about hot water, mud, massage, and drinks. They host parties and all sorts of events, so it gets crowded easily. Booking a spot in advance is a must, but it’s worth it. You can see the Blue Lagoon in the beginning of the sequel to the Hostel movie. Don’t go too wild there, as the credit racks up rather fast. They charge you when you leave and most people don’t realize how expensive it gets. Also, it seems like they’ll have some major competition in 2021 (https://www.skylagoon.com/). The Golden Circle is the second highlight of any trip to Iceland. There are dozens of companies based in Reykjavík that can sort you out. They organize horseback trips, camping trips, trips focused on the northern lights. The Golden Circle is a 300km long trail of natural wonders of Iceland. You’ll come across unforgettable volcanic fields, waterfalls, geysers, and valleys.

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