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Eindhoven city guide

Eindhoven is what would happen if IKEA would start to manufacture cities. It’s innovative, practical, easy to assemble, and surprisingly durable. My first encounter with Eindhoven was incidental. I vaguely recall a lady calling out a flight over airport speakers. That’s how I always thought about Eindhoven; as some meaningless airport city. Background noise compared to Amsterdam and all the other major destinations in the Netherlands. The truth is: Eindhoven is the backbone of the Netherlands’ industry. However, it began much earlier; even before people knew what industry is. The town dates back to the early 13th century. It was never a large city and that made it an easy target. Every time it got razed and pillaged, it rebuilt bigger and better. The real breakthrough for Eindhoven came with the Industrial Revolution. New roads and canals were built, connecting the city to major destinations in the Netherlands and beyond. Then came the Philips era.

Yup, Philips: one of the very few electronics companies that aren’t Asian. I still have a 15 years old Philips TV. That thing is indestructible. It still works flawlessly. The company was established in the late 19th century and they started with producing lightbulbs. Eindhoven got huge, by 1935 its population grew to over 100 000 people. Most of them came to work for Philips. A city within a city was built to house all those workers. Everything in the city was somehow connected to Philips, even the successful local professional football club PSV. The company moved its headquarters to Amsterdam in 1997. Emotions ran high and some accused Philip's management of denying their heritage or even outright betrayal. Despite all, its legacy remains in Eindhoven. Strijp-S is what was left of the industrial park in 1997 before it got repurposed in 2000. Now it’s a lofty residential area for the creatively inclined. They even keep bees on the roof of the building; it was turned into a sort of an urban farm. I’m not sure why it has to be on the roof, though. Maybe they’re preparing for the zombie apocalypse, you never know.

Street sign indicating the beginning of Stratumseind in Eindhoven

Stratumseind: without a doubt the best-known nightlife district in Eindhoven and even the south of the Netherlands

The design part of the “City of Design” doesn’t end there. St. Catherine's Church (Sint Catharinakerk) is one of the older “designs”. It was built in 1867, just before the conception of the Philips empire. You could say this church is the bridge between two very different times. It’s one of the most beautiful gothic churches in the Netherlands and a national monument. Climb one of the towers for an overview of the Stratumseind directly below. Or you could just walk towards the street instead of climbing a tower, but the view is nice. Stratumseind is the main nightlife street in Eindhoven, and the most “packed” in the Netherlands. It’s less than a quarter-mile long but there are almost 50 bars and clubs crammed into it. Absolutely ridiculous, locals call it the dirtiest street in Eindhoven.

St. Catherine's Church, Eindhoven's neo-Gothic Catholic church, lit during the annual light festival GLOW

Every year in November, Eindhoven is all about GLOW, the largest light festival in the country.

Stratumseind is part of the old city centre. Although it does not really deserve the qualification “Old Town” it’s worth your time. Especially during GLOW, the light art festival held in November, when Eindhoven becomes a huge Christmas tree. “Lightbulb party” might not sound very cool, but wait till you see it. Everything from buildings to cars is lit up with bright colourful lights. It’s like Thailand, but then in the Netherlands and only for a day. It’s a celebration of artificial light, something that many of us take for granted. Various exhibitions are also taking place during GLOW. Many of them are held around the Admirant, one of the most popular shopping areas in Eindhoven. The mall is overshadowed by its entrance, known as the Blob. It looks like a deformed golf ball. But making people wondering: that’s what modern art is all about, right?

Don’t miss out on the Evoluon, yet another remarkable piece of surreal architecture. It’s also one of the Philips’ family gifts to Eindhoven. Still very impressive still but it must have been even unreal in 1966 when it was built. Looking like a massive mushroom, or a UFO, Evoluon has been a site for art shows, conventions, and even TED Talks. It was a science museum back when Frits Philips founded it to commemorate the 75th anniversary of the company.

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Osaka city guide

Osaka is the embodiment of Japan's famous hardworking mind-set. In a different way than Tokyo, though. I would say Osaka is the Yin to Tokyo’s Yang. It’s a little more chaotic, feminine, and indulging. There’s an on-going rivalry between the two cities. People from Osaka are jokingly called stingy and gluttonous. Might sound harsh but there's always a story behind a nickname. Historically, most of its population consisted of merchants. There's an interesting theme connecting Osaka and the origins of money in Europe. It began in late 17th century London. Goldsmiths used to store their clients’ gold and jewellery and gave out receipts. They took a cut from every deposit because people are greedy by nature. Before long everyone started trading using the receipts in place of the physical wealth. Naturally, banks printed more receipts than they had the equivalent of in gold. We all know how it all blew out of proportion in our times. Osaka was the London of Japan. The only difference is that they didn’t store gold but their daimyos’ rice. Heaps of rice meant wealth back then. They even had their first rice Wall Street where people could buy rice that didn’t exist yet. Everyone with a head on the shoulders got very rich. The ruling shogunate overlooked everything even allowing some of the merchants to operate within the castle.

Osaka castle surrounded by a huge park to the backdrop of the city's skyscrapers

Osaka Castle is one of Japan's most beloved tourist attractions; the huge ancient temple in the lush greenery of a park with the city's skyscrapers in the background is simply breathtaking

The reconstructed Osaka Castle is one of the most visited landmarks in Japan for a good reason. The real thing was crucial during the Sengoku Period. It’s part of Japanese history with all the Tokugawas and Nobunagas you’ve seen adapted into pop culture. The first thing you see is a giant moat surrounding the castle. Gives you a perspective on what the invading armies had to deal with. Add that to all the towers with archers, a maze of the inner courtyard and you have an impregnable fortress. The platforms and walls are the most impressive. They’re just massive blocks of granite put together like LEGO blocks without any mortar. The whole complex is only a shadow of its former self. That doesn’t take away from the sheer scope of the grounds and the park beloved by Osakans.

The port is another reason why Osaka got big and wealthy. It’s one of the largest in Japan and the first to open for foreign trade. In recent years it became not only a trade hub of international significance but also a landmark for tourists. That’s because it stretches over the entire bay area. You’ll see the characteristic Ferris wheel, art museums, shopping malls, and… Universal Studio Japan! They call it a studio but everyone comes for the massive amusement park. My favourite part is the recreated Hogwarts from Harry Potter. They even included that small village with candy shops and a bar with butter beer. Must be a trip of a lifetime for any fan. This theme park goes far beyond the usual Universal franchises. Anime is the name of the game here. The company invested in such classics as Dragon Ball, One Piece, Attack on Titan, and Gintama, among many others.

Arial view of the Port of Osaka at Osaka Bay

Osaka Port is not only one of the largest in the country, it is also the first to open to foreigners, the immediate area of Osaka Bay is a popular leisure destination for the city's residents

Osaka is a busy place and busy people need calories. That’s the reason why this city is known for its food and its people for their appetites. This is the birthplace of takoyaki and okonomiyaki. They’re both a type of fried batter. Takoyaki is a pancake ball with octopus filling while okonomiyaki is a flat one with cabbage and various toppings. The street food mania doesn’t end there. Osaka is Japan’s street food central and you’ll find everything there. Fresh seafood is popular. The Dōtonbori district is famous for its animated crab neons and blowtorched crab legs. It stretches along the Dōtonbori Canal connected by several bridges. This part of Osaka is crowded during the day but gets even wilder at night. People eat, drink, and stumble out of izakayas; the famous Japanese taverns, and karaoke bars. If that’s not your thing then go and explore. You’ll find a plethora of Zen gardens and temples. Shopping is also a big part of the Japanese lifestyle, especially for the youth. They’re trying hard to break out of that strict mold of the “don’t stand out” mind-set. Visit Shinsaibashi, Osaka’s renowned shopping area, and see what the crazy kids are wearing these days.

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Limassol city guide

Limassol is a city like no other. It’s thoroughly Greek, but also genuinely cosmopolitan. Most Mediterranean resorts are basic, cookie-cutter towns. Tourists spend their days on the beaches and party at night. There might be an Old Town if you’re lucky. That’s it. Almost every resort there is identical. Limassol breaks out of that mold. It pulled off a combination of both the resort and the big city vibes. Kind of like Miami. That’s mostly thanks to Limassol’s location and status as a major business and trade centre. “Gateway into Europe”, I’m not a fan of this term. I mean there are a few Gateways into Europe. If you’re nicknaming something then at least make it unique. It’s not a shopping mall, after all. People have lived here long before Europe even had a name. Despite that, Limassol gained major significance during the Crusades. Funny thing is that Cyprus was conquered by Richard the Lionheart for the sole reason of the local governor being a dickhead. Isaac Komnenos was the king of the island and Richard was casually passing through. Leading a crusade and stuff and his wife-to-be was following in another ship. Crusades were clearly in the top 10 most romantic dates back then. Isaac figured he’d kidnap the fair lady and demand ransom. Richard would have none of that so he just took Cyprus instead. This is a very simplified summary of the events.

Genethliou Mitellla, a popular pedestrian street in Limassol

Genethliou Mitellla, this cosy and picturesque pedestrian street is Limassol's most famous street and leads to the Ayia Napa Cathedral, another local tourist staple

The important thing is that Lionheart threw a wedding in Limassol. It got wild. He even ordered booze from the nearby village of Kolossi. Commandaria is the name of that wine and it’s still being made. You can buy wine declared “the wine of kings and king of wines” by Richard the Lionheart. How cool is that? The celebrations took place in Limassol Castle. Back then castles were built for function, not as a symbol of status. It’s charming but not as picturesque as the ones in Europe. There are signs of religious worship below the present building. Some suspect that it stands on top of Limassol’s first cathedral. Cyprus Medieval Museum is located inside the castle if you’d like to learn more. You’re in the middle of the Old Town; ancient history is all around you. Walk the stone-paved alleys like the Genethliou Mitellla, have a drink while enjoying the ambience. Saripolou Square is the main plaza of Limassol’s Old Town. It’s the busiest spot for bar crawls and clubbing. The party here often lasts until the early morning hours.

Have you ever wondered why so many buildings are painted white and blue here? The Ottoman Empire ruled this region and outlawed any signs of patriotism. Greeks couldn’t express their feelings out loud so they painted their homes in national colours. It’s also practical; white paint reflects the sun's rays, keeps the interior cool. You won’t see many of these traditional homes outside of the Old Town. Key districts of Limassol are being redesigned towards more modern tastes. The Old Port was transformed and is almost detached from its humble fishing village roots. Now it’s a hub for nightlife and culinary delights. Fresh and affordable seafood is always a plus. The nearby Limassol Marina is a bit more upscale. Think of fancy gourmet food, champagne, and yachts rather than beer and fried calamari. This city has something in store for all sorts of crowds.

Colourful fishing boats docked at Palio Limani, Limassol's Old Port

Palio Limani, the colourful Old Port of Limassol, has become the centre of local nightlife and and offers great opportunities for wining and dining

Personally, I really enjoy walking. I could spend all day walking around Limassol and exploring surrounding villages and beaches. There are eleven kilometres of coastline here, that’s a lot of beaches. You can travel to the nearby cities of Kourion and Amathus. Both are remains of ancient city-states dedicated to different gods of the Greek pantheon. Amathus was tightly knit into the mythology, being founded by one of the sons of Heracles. Another myth connects it with the birth of Adonis. There are some hilarious anecdotes about a temple in honour of the bearded Aphrodite. One of the recently uncovered sites is also home to a very particular ancient curse. “May your penis ache when you make love” sounds like a kindergarten insult now, but I’m sure it was very serious business back then.

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Kharkiv city guide

Kharkiv, or Kharkov in Russian, is one of those characteristic cities that blossomed during the Soviet Union era. It’s a typical industrial giant built to fuel the old war effort. So think of a lot of concrete, factories, and monumental buildings. Wealth followed the industry and the rich built beautiful apartment buildings. They somehow reminded me of Kevin Spacey’s home in House of Cards. Post-Soviet cities often have a lot of green areas and beautiful parks as well. They function as the green lungs of the city and offer its inhabitants opportunities for leisure and relaxing. Living and working in an industrial city becomes otherwise too stressful. The Park of Maxim Gorky (officially: Maxim Gorky Central Park for Culture and Recreation) is the most famous one in Kharkiv. Trees were initially planted in a row with a horse-racing track in mind. It kept growing until the Second World War when many trees were cut down. Consider it just a minor setback. The community loves their park and they wouldn’t stand for this disarray. Gorky was rebuilt and now it’s better than ever. There’s an amusement area for kids, a cable cart, and all sorts of goodies. It’s remarkable clean and trash is one thing you won’t see here; not even one cigarette butt. Seeing how people from all generations take care of their shared space is very heart-warming.

The Temple of the Myrrh-Bearers in Karkhiv: destroyed and rebuilt on many occasions and hailed as one of the most beautiful Orthodox churches in the country

Kharkiv is a university city with students from all over the world. This gives out that unique contrast of the soviet seriousness and youthful joy. Take the otherworldly block of the Opera House as an example. It looks like one of those Weyland-Yutani spaceships from Aliens. Watch all those kids skateboarding, socializing, and having fun. The Temple of The Myrrh-Bearers, also named the Holy Myrrhbearers Cathedral, is visible from the Opera. It’s one of the most beautiful orthodox churches in Ukraine with a very common history behind it. It was built as a wooden temple, destroyed by the Soviets, and rebuilt. They added towers over the years, and changed names a bunch of times. The usual drill when it comes to churches. Boring. The Annunciation Cathedral is a far more interesting place of worship. This curiously patterned building is the main orthodox church in Kharkiv.

Sharivka Palace is a site with a cool story. It stands in the middle of a forest some 60 km from Kharkiv. It was built by some random nobleman named Olhovsky, but ended up in possession of a German baron Leopold Koenig. He fell in love with a very sickly woman. It was a Beauty and the Beast kind of a love story. The arboreal park around the mansion was built to ease her pulmonary issues. There’s even a story of him ordering tons of sugar for her to ride her sled on. I’m not buying it. I think some details were lost in translation. The couple was chased away by the Soviets who turned Sharivka into a sanatorium. Another myth is that no infectious pulmonary bacteria can survive in the area. I’m not buying that either. The wife died, the occupants left and the palace just stands there. It’s abandoned but not forgotten. Some say it’s haunted, others say they feel “mystical energies”. I would say it’s a real treat for urban explorers.

Front view of Sharivka Palace, about 60 kilometers from Kharkov

There are many intriguing legends surrounding the Sharivka Palace, located in an ancient forest about 60 kilometers from Kharkiv

Another thing with these post-soviet industrial cities is that they all have elaborate metro networks. Supposedly because they were all built as bomb shelters. Stations are many and they’re all beautifully decorated. Even the imposing Derzhprom complex is a marvel of modern architecture. It was officially the largest building in the world when it was built in 1920. Naturally, because it was the first Soviet skyscraper and they had to one-up the USA. Locals hate it though. The general attitude is that it looks great from the outside but is infested with rats on the inside. I’m not sure whether they mean it in a metaphorical or literal sense. Kharkiv is full of art; it’s a city of creative minds. The murals are stunning and the cafes are modern and designed better than some in Western Europe. You wouldn’t believe that Russia is just around the corner.

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Canberra city guide

Australia is a peculiar country and its capital city Canberra, even more so. The whole continent used to be split into independent British colonies. One day they decided they needed a centralized administration and so Australia became a “Commonwealth”. Something like the US with their federal government. What about a capital? Melbourne and Sydney were out of the question. Those two were in a state of constant petty rivalry. Australians decided they’d rather build themselves a brand-new city. Canberra was designed by two architects from Chicago; and what a design it was! They came up with a concept of a garden city built around an artificial lake. I think the blueprint looks like a temple complex, almost alchemical. I suppose you can just go wild if you’re building a capital from scratch. You can get a bird’s eye view of the city from Mt. Ainslie. It’s a nice and not very challenging hike. The Telstra tower is another viewing point worth visiting. You’ll see geometrical shapes and a lot of open space. Canberra is almost utopian; peaceful, not overcrowded or deformed by dozens of skyscrapers.

Front view of the Australian War Memorial in Canberra

The Australian War Memorial commemorates and pays tribute to all Australians who died in the war; a visit to this austere complex that resembles a mosque is an engaging and moving experience

I make it sounds as if it was a detached colony somewhere on Mars. I can assure you it’s not. Canberra is very grounded where it needs to be. Canberra is a monument to Australia’s controversial history. You’ll see it on display in numerous museums, monuments, and plaques throughout the city. Australian War Memorial might be the most impressive of them all. It’s an engaging memorial to all countrymen who participated in the wars in which the Australian Commonwealth was involved over the years. But it's also an enormous museum dedicated to military equipment and history. People seem to think that Australia is all about funny accents and deadly creatures crawling out of toilet bowls. Truth is that its history might not be long but it’s far from uneventful. The building looks like a mosque with a beautiful courtyard and gardens. Perfect for a picnic. If you like these outdoor artsy activities then you can’t miss out on the National Gallery. The main building is cool, but the Sculpture Garden is the real treat. It’s a garden of nightmarish sculptures like a bunch of heads sticking out of a pond. It’s super cool, especially after dark. All the typical touristy things like museums, galleries, parks, etc. are conveniently located around the Parliamentary Zone. It’s both the cultural and administrative heart of the capital.

Canberra is the seat of the Australian government with a remarkable Parliament House. In fact: there are two actually; to be more precise. The Old Parliament House became the Museum of Australian Democracy. The building is the same as it was until 1988 when it “retired” as the seat of the government. All the offices and rooms are untouched. The new Parliament is a different story. It’s a true marvel of modern architecture. Also known as Parliament Hill, it looks like it was built into a grassy plateau. Again it looks like a temple. The best part is that it’s open to the public. I can respect politicians who don’t separate themselves from the common people. You can explore almost every room in the building. I love the green roof, where you can chill with a blanket and sunbathe. I think it’s very symbolic how people walk “above” the politicians.

Parliament House by evening on Capital Hill in Canberra

Parliament House is also often referred to as Capital Hill, its magnificent location in Canberra

A rather young capital is inhabited mostly by the younger generations. Everything is fun, from the art galleries to the food and nightlife. Everything is hipster here. Micro breweries are around every corner and almost all bars have industrial décor. A large part of it is centred around Lake Burley Griffin. It’s named after the architects who designed Canberra, so it’s important. People love to take walks around the lake while enjoying the breeze during those famously hot summers. The Botanical Gardens are also amazing if you’d like to get in touch with local fauna. You could just drive outside of the city and explore. Are you brave enough to face the deadly Outback? Can you face dangers such as a flat tire or no phone reception? Canberra is only the centre of the ACT- Australian Capital Territory. Be sure to rent a car, the Territory is vast and Canberran public transport is bad. Buy a map and discover hidden gems like the Corin Forest, the Gibraltar Falls, or the numerous vineyards.

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Bordeaux city guide

I bet you’ve seen Bordeaux written on dozens of bottles. It’s synonymous with some of the best wines and worst hangovers. I am no stranger to the intricacies of winemaking. In fact, I do have a makeshift fermentation operation in my garage. Almost anything sweet can be turned into booze. The magic happens when yeast feeds on sugar and “poops” alcohol. That’s why any kind of fruit works; berries, apples, pineapple, you name it. So why grapes? What makes them so special that grape wine became so mainstream? It’s hard to screw up, fool proof. Grapes are naturally sweet and have a layer of yeast on their skin. Just mash them and they’re good to go. It’s so easy that the Chinese supposedly figured it all out around 3000 BC. However, it’s the French that turned it into an art form and Bordeaux has always been the centre of it all. There are around 6000 vineyards and wineries split between two banks of the Garonne river. The wines they make differ depending on the vinery, but all share similar notes. They might use specific ratios of grapes, but all their labels say “Bordeaux”. The climate here is warm and allows for the fruit to ripen to perfection. The soil is also ideal for growing vines.

Lush green vineyards in the hills near Bordeaux

The region of Bordeaux has become synonymous with the world-famous French wine culture

That soil also affects Bordeaux in another way: it’s too soft to build anything too tall on it. That means no skyscrapers or high-rise apartment buildings. The city is wide and flat like a pancake and packed with stuff to do. Wine isn’t the only thing that makes Bordeaux one of the major European destinations. It has historically been a very prosperous port town. Most of its inhabitants were merchants and freethinkers. Modern Bordeaux is similar. Young people are taking matters into their own hands transforming the city into something unique. An elaborate restoration plan to upscale certain unsightly areas is delivering amazing results. Bassins de Lumiere are an example of that. It’s an abandoned submarine base turned into a digital art gallery. Their Gustav Klimt exhibition is unforgettable. The Bastide Neighborhood is another abandoned military base. The area used to operate as barracks. Now it’s repurposed as a cultural centre and the bohemian district of Bordeaux with skate parks, urban art galleries, and drinks in mason jars.

Those are all “off the beaten path”; the main landmarks can be found along the river. The crescent-shaped bend of the Garonne is where the magic happens. Cité du Vin is located at the northern part of the bend. It’s the largest wine museum in the world. They call it an interactive museum but don’t go in thinking it’s a wine bar. You’ll find those everywhere else, especially along the renovated riverbanks. The iconic Place de la Bourse is further south towards the downtown. It’s the most recognizable and timeless square in Bordeaux. You’ll see some outstanding architecture from the late 1700s if you’re into that stuff. For me, the fountain is the centrepiece of that plaza. The Water Mirror (Miroir d'eau) is technically a “reflecting pool”- slabs of granite covered by a thin layer of water. The best part is that it releases a refreshing mist every few minutes, which is a great treat during hot summer days. I think that every city should have its own Miroir d'eau.

Place de la Bourse by evening reflected in the Water Mirror (Miroir d'eau) in Bordeaux

The magnificent Miroir d'eau (Water Mirror) in Bordeaux is the world's largest reflecting pool, beautifully located along the quays of the Garonne river and in front of Place de la Bourse

The Garonne riverbanks are also the best spot for food and nightlife. The world’s capital of wine needs adequate gastronomy to go with it. Thirty-two local restaurants are featured in the Michelin Guide, which is no small feat. Keep in mind that most of it is French fine dining and it’s not everyone’s cup of tea. The British have ruled Bordeaux for over 300 years. You’ll have no trouble finding a pub with decent fast food and beer either. The Brits haven’t left much else behind when they left, but you will see a lot of ancient Aquitaine history around. They’re the prehistoric people who lived on these lands long before the Celts or the Romans. You can learn about all that seemingly forgotten culture at the Museum of Aquitaine (Musée d'Aquitaine). Showcased artefacts include the Venus with Horn which is an over 25 000 years old sculpture. All those ancient “Venus” art makes me think about how the standards of beauty have changed over the centuries.

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Budva city guide

Budva in Montenegro is the perfect Adriatic Coast destination. Especially, when you get nauseous thinking of another bite of Italian pasta. Or when you still get PTSD from the sound of Greeks smashing their plates. Budva is half an hour bus ride away from Kotor, where all the cruise ships dock. It’s nearby, but the crowds are entirely different. You won’t see many English-speaking tourists in Budva; most visitors are Serbian and Russian. It’s not just a plain resort either; the city is over 2500 years old. That makes it one of the oldest on the Adriatic coast. You couldn’t tell, though. Budva isn’t famous for its ancient architecture, or cultural heritage. People mostly come for the beaches and the nightlife. If that’s not something you’re into then this might be the wrong holiday destination for you. Budva’s Old Town is tiny: you can explore it in half a day. You’ll find the usual stuff here: tacky tourist shops next to designer boutiques selling €450 polo shirts. Restaurants, cafes, bars with somewhat classier ambiance; at least compared to the promenade. There are three churches. Two of them are usually closed outside of the tourist season. St. Ivan’s Church is accessible all year round. It was built in the 7th century and served as a cathedral for over a thousand years. Very simple and modest, which is admirable nowadays.

Saint Ivan Church in Budva, Illuminated at evening

It is impossible not to notice the high tower in Budva, which is visible from any part of the city: the bell tower of the Church of St. Ivan, the largest and most famous church in the ancient spa town

The Citadel stands on top of Budva’s historic district. It was built during the Austrian occupation to house the troops and monitor the coast. A private company named Imobilia, which renovates the fortress, now owns the place. They also claim ownership of numerous exhibitions within it. Those include an impressive library of texts and hand-drawn maps. They also rent valuable space to some of the best restaurants in Budva. Having a glass of wine with some seafood on one of those terraces is an unforgettable experience. One of them faces the sea, while the other presents a view of the city. From there, you can walk straight down towards the beaches. This is the part that earned Budva the nickname of “Montenegrin Miami”. Strips of sand are plentiful, crowded, and loud. They’re not very sandy either; it’s mostly those uncomfortable tiny rocks. Slovenska Plaza is the largest one here; it stretches over 1.6 kilometres of central Budva. Mogren is the name of the beach directly west from the Old Town. Head a bit further past it and you’ll reach a smaller, but less crowded Mogren 2. There’s also the Jaz Bay with a zone dedicated to the naturist community.

The ballerina statue in Budva is a popular place for taking selfies against the background of the Adriatic Sea and the fortress of the Old Town

You’ll come across the Statue of the Dancing Girl. Some say it’s been built in honour of a young woman who drowned nearby. You might as well say it’s a statue in honour of all the go-go dancers around the promenade. The nightlife and parties are a huge part of Budva’s appeal. Every beach has a bar and many function as clubs when the sun sets. The promenade feels like one giant fair. The food and drinks are relatively cheap, at least outside of the clubs and bars where a small beer costs €8. The seafood is exceptional. When it comes to attractions, there’s the usual sea resort stuff. You’ll see bungee jumping platforms, trampolines…an aqua park. As for the shopping, I’ve been told to watch out for overpriced counterfeits. Good advice in case you’ve never been to any seaside resort in the world.

Most people come for the clubs, though. They’re not only the best in Montenegro, but some have been called the best in the world. Top Hill, Trocadero, and Perla are just three off the top of my head. Those are frequented by some of the best Balkan DJs. Keep an eye out for scams and pickpockets. Waiters sometimes bring you a bill, take your cash, and disappear. Another waiter comes along to collect the money again and accuses you of trying to dodge the payment. You can always get out of the city and explore if the rowdy party crowds prove too much to handle. Budva is surrounded by stunning nature. You can rent a boat and explore the lakes. Hike in pine forests, trek hills, and mountains. Montenegro is not a large country. The most interesting sites can be seen in form of a day trip from Budva.

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Delhi city guide

Delhi will make you ask questions like: “How do people even live here?”. It’s a colossal beehive that will chew you up and spit you out. It won’t kill you, but it comes damn close. Delhi is a megalopolis with, quite possibly, the worst traffic in the world. You might think you’re prepared for it, but you’re not. It was even worse before 2002 when the metro was built. You couldn’t even reach certain parts of Delhi. We often use traffic as an excuse for being late for work, but the struggle is real here. It’s one of the reasons why apps like Uber are so popular in Delhi. Same thing with bike rentals and guided bike rides. Whichever means of exploration you choose make sure you set off early. Schedule ahead and take your time sightseeing. There’s nothing worse than being stuck in traffic on your way to see all the landmarks. You just need to get through the initial shock and you’ll see how beautiful Delhi is. It’s almost a living painting.

Swaminarayan Akshardham, the largest Hindu temple on the planet, is located in New Delhi and is a fairly new building (2005)

Most parts of Delhi are very rustic, to say the least. Communal showers, lack of running water, people cooking on coals: just general disorder. Stuck in time, but not in a good way. Then you come across sites that people hold dear and notice how well they’re being kept. That goes particularly for temples and historical sites such as the Red Fort. It looks like a tall, red wall when you approach it from the streets of Delhi. Once you pay for the ticket and enter its premises, you’re presented with a vast courtyard. The Mughal Emperors used this place as their main residence, so it’s not “just” a fort. That dynasty was responsible for centuries of cultural growth of Indian people. The Mughal reigned over this part of Asia for over three hundred years. Their rule ended following the Siege of Delhi; a battle fought against the British East India Company. It’s safe to say that the Red Fort is their legacy. It could function as a separate city with everything from residential quarters to temples and a bazaar.

Swaminarayan Akshardham is a relatively recent addition to Delhi’s roster of landmarks. It was built by the hands of thousands of volunteers from all over the world. Akshardham is a religious complex like no other. A massive temple stands in the centre of it all, surrounded by beautiful gardens, sculptures, and fountains. People come here to learn about yoga, meditation, and Hinduism. Everyone can benefit from a stay within these walls; all it takes is an open mind. I’d call it a modern-day monastery, where tradition meets fibre optics. It’s hard to believe it was only opened in 2005. Jama Masjid is another religious landmark in Delhi. It’s one of the largest mosques in India and part of Shah Jahan’s heritage. He’s the man who commissioned the Taj Mahal and Red Fort.

Jama Masjid Mosque in old Delhi, the last miracle of architecture commissioned by the Mughal emperor Shah Jahan

The spice markets are the most organic way to experience Delhi. People here like spicy food, probably spicier than a regular guy can handle. Why would they eat scorching hot food in this stupidly hot climate? Sweating regulates your temperature, so the local cuisine evolved in a certain way. An unaccustomed nose will have trouble coping around one of those markets. Wait until you take a whiff of a random chilli dust cloud and you’ll wish it were only allergy. Employ the services of one of many street food tour companies. Help out the local kids and you won’t be disappointed. They’ll show you places you’d never find on your own.

Expect stuff like a meter-wide alleyway and a crowd of people around a guy sitting next to a cauldron. He’s probably selling breakfast pancakes, that would go great with butter. But he never has any butter. You need to walk further down the alley and look for another guy. He’s usually wearing a black leather jacket and deals sticks of butter like it was cocaine. It’s bizarre. Make sure you steer clear of the westernized food: it’s disgusting. Vendors are trying to appeal to tourists by bastardizing stuff like Bolognese samosas, or pizza with curry potatoes.

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Basel city guide

Basel is what a 21st century European should be like to my opinion. Not too modern, but not too stuck in the past either. It’s very multicultural and open-minded, probably because Basel is where Switzerland, Germany and France meet. That three-way border is an important part of local identity. The inherent multinationalism opened a way for ex-pats and international corporations. Pharmaceutical giants such as Novartis and Roche are a good example. Roche’s very own skyscraper is in fact the tallest building in Switzerland. There’s been a hilarious rivalry between Basel and Zürich for decades. Who builds the tallest skyscraper, or lures more tourists in; stuff like that. Basel takes the lead…for now. It used to be the largest and most prosperous city in Switzerland. You can see all that former (and current) glory in its architecture. I’d go as far as saying that parts of the Rhine riverbanks remind me of Florence. Both cities share their love for art stored in galleries and museums.

Basel Minster Basler Munster cathedral and medieval houses in Basel

Basel Minster, the oldest temple in Basel with reddish sandstone walls, patterned tiled roofs and slender twin towers, is the main decoration of the cityscape

There are 40 museums in Basel, which is an amazing number for such a relatively small city. Start your journey at the Old Town; it’s the best part of every medieval city. The Marktplatz is the main square in Old Basel; it functions as a farmer’s market to this day. The one thing that stands out here is the most beautiful Town Hall. It was built between the 16th and 18th century, when people decided the old Town Hall was outdated. This stunning red building has functioned as the seat of the government ever since. There’s a charming inner courtyard, but the main feature is on the outside. The arcades and the characteristic red wall were decorated by paintings of Basel’s very own Hans Bock. He was a big shot when it came to German art of that period. You probably noticed the basilisk. It often appears on fountains and various monuments across Basel. Basilea is another name for Basel, closely connected to the mythical creature. According to legend, a basilisk used to live in a cavern below the modern-day Gerberbrunnen (Tanner Fountain). Another story dates back to 1474 when a cockerel was sentenced to death for (allegedly) laying an egg. A proper trial took place, as people were scared shitless that it will spawn a basilisk. Everyone knows you can’t just kill a basilisk, you need a weasel, a crow, or a mirror, not easy things to obtain in the middle ages.

Medieval clock on the Town Hall in Basel

Built in the Gothic style, the Town Hall in Basel evokes admiration both for the architecture in general and for the nuances in particular such as the clock of the beginning of the 16th century, the coat of arms above the entrance, and the statue of Munatis Plancus in the courtyard

Pick up a bag of Basler Läckerli biscuits at the closest Läckerli Huus and walk towards the Rhine. You can stop by the Museum of Natural History on the way. If you had to pick a few out of 40 museums in Basel then this one should be on that list. I’d close it with the Pharmacy Museum, showcasing stuff that made Paracelsus settle in Basel for a while. The Tinguely Museum is also exceptional. It’s named after the famous artist/inventor who built one of Basel’s iconic fountains. Make sure you visit the Münster Square (Münsterplatz) if you’re in Basel in December. This is where Switzerland’s top (according to the locals) Christmas market takes place. This square is also where you’ll find Basel’s most important landmark. The cathedral is not too big, not too spectacular, it’s just right. The original building was destroyed in the Basel earthquake in 1356. It was rebuilt in 1500, which means it’s almost 600 years old.

Basel is a bit of a natural anomaly in Central Europe. They have earthquakes and even the climate is peculiar. Trees and plants that, technically shouldn’t grow in this region, are flourishing. It might not be 30+ degrees all the time, but Basel claims they do have 300 days of sunshine every year. That brings us to my favorite part: the Rhine. It blows my mind how you can swim in a river that flows right through a city. They build an entire infrastructure around it, making the Rhine a centerpiece of the Basel experience. Urban beaches, water trams, not to mention the cookie-cutter riverbank bars, cafes, and restaurants. You can grab one of those floaty bags, pack your stuff and let the current take you. It’s free public transport. Late for a meeting? Strip down and jump into the Rhine, it’s better than waiting for an Uber.

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Leuven city guide

Leuven (Louvain in French) is an amazing city, especially if you’re a student. It’s a very cool place to live, with a charming historical centre an not overly touristy as for instance Bruges. It’s only 15 miles by train from Brussels. You’d think that’s almost a suburb, but it has its unique personality. There isn’t much to do here outside of student life. It’s been a university city since 1425. There are a lot of young people of various nationalities. Leuven is an excellent example of how the Erasmus exchange program should function. All this energy contrasting with cobblestone streets and old bricks is very heart-warming. You’ll feel it while around the squares of Leuven. The Grand Square or the Great Market is a large open plaza situated between two smaller ones. It’s the oldest part of the city; it was there in the 14th century when the University of Leuven was established. This is where you’ll find some of the most important landmarks. The first time I came across the Town Hall I thought it was church. It looks like a gorgeous gothic cathedral, at least from afar, with all those spires, characteristic windows, and ornaments. The Church of St. Peters stands vis-à-vis the Town Hall. Rumour has it that it’s not very spikey, because there already were too many spires in Leuven. What it lacks in spikiness it makes up in length being almost 100m long.

Old Market square and Town Hall in Leuven

The elongated, rectangular Old Market Square in the center of Leuven, near the Grote Markt; due to the many cafes and pubs here it's often jokingly called the longest bar in the world

One of the neighbouring squares is called the Oude Markt (Old Market). It’s a well-known student hangout and venue for events and concerts. Regulars like to invoke the nickname: “The Longest Bar in Europe”. It’s long, but it’s not really one bar; more like a successive line of pubs and cafes. Leuven can get a little desolate during summer break when all the students leave to visit their families. The city can also seem like an aftermath of a zombie apocalypse between 18:00 and 21:00. Many establishments close during that time and open up later for the evening party people. You can spend your time in all sorts of ways during those 3 hour-long pauses. You can relax in one of Leuven’s many parks. I absolutely adore the local botanical garden, it’s a bit of a hidden gem. It’s a gorgeous, peaceful sanctuary right there, in the middle of a loud city. Students and scholars used to grow medicinal plants here back in the 18th century. In those days substances had to be grown instead of getting synthesized in a lab. The Stella Artois Brewery is another way to spend some free time. They keep it open for tours; you just need to reserve one in advance. I’m not going to lie; it’s not my favourite brew. I think it’s an example of what happens to a solid beer when it goes global. They somehow became the largest brewing company in the world owning over 630 brands. They’re probably involved in the beer you’re having right now. Alternatively, you could check the university out. Rent a bicycle if you didn’t bring your own. Embrace the bicycle culture this country and its Northern neighbour the Netherlands are famous for.

Arenberg Castle, surrounded by a park, built in the 12th century, is located in the Leuven district Heverlee; in 1921 the building was sold to the university

The Catholic University of Leuven is one of the oldest in Europe. It’s also consistently in the top 100 best in the world. It wasn’t even “Catholic” when it was founded in 1425. KU became KU when it re-launched in 1843 with the support of Belgian bishops. Truth is, it’s just a name. People don’t get excluded from lectures if they’re nonbelievers. Groot Begijnhof is a remainder of the proper Catholic times. It’s a beguine: an enclave for religious women. Almost like living as nuns but without taking any vows. They wanted to be a part of the community, but they also wanted to be left alone on their secluded island. It’s situated between two charming canals and a very cool place with a medieval feel to it with all the bricks and cobblestone. You could probably rent an Air BnB there, as it’s currently used as a campus and quarters for academics. Arenberg Casle (Kasteel van Arenberg) is also part of the campus. It’s more of a huge mansion than a castle. Lords of Heverlee got themselves into a bit of a financial pickle and sold the property. It changed owners over the years and transformed from a proper castle into this château situation. It is now part of the University, but you can visit and explore most of it. I couldn’t help it but I got Bly Manor and Secret Garden flashbacks.

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